Hermès Fall/Winter 2017
“How enduring, how we need durability / The sky before sunrise is soaked with light / Rosy colour tints buildings, bridges, and the Seine” Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski chose Nobel Prize Czes?aw Mi?osz as backdrop for her collection. More than an homage to her ancestors, it’s the sense of surprise and anticipation every non-Parisian feels when experiencing this city that Vanhee-Cybulski aimed to hint. It’s that wandering around as in a sort of situationist walk, not sure what will resurface from its powerful heritage. The expectation and the excitement.
Hermés Fall/Winter 2017 is all that. Vanhee-Cybulski’s wish to build Hermés identity as timeless but playful, a dialogue between the contemporary fresh attitude with that effortless spirit expressed since her first collection at the French house, was clear from the start. The collection felt polyhedric and at a closer look it revealed all its beautiful craftsmanship.
A beautifully timeless wool long cape in midnight blue lined in a rosy dusty brick tone and paired with a sporty ribbed sweater and tights. A sweeping floor leather coat in pale powder pink. Classic cut pants and laced-up thigh-high boots as borrowed from man’s wardrobe. Relaxed turtleneck knits matched with statement patchwork leather outwear with shearling trim. But also 70s vibes with scarf dresses in mousseline. Vanhee-Cybulski is revising the codes of haute modern dressing for this equestrian-routed French maison.
Dior Fall/Winter 2017
Taking the reins of a legendary fashion house is always a challenge. Maria Grazia Chiuri is not new to the job. She, together with Pier Paolo Piccioli, took the helm of Valentino one year after Sir Garavani’s retirement, keeping high the stakes of the house, bringing it back to international acclaim.
At her second collection for Dior, Chiuri’s wish to bring a revolution and play with the house’s codes is even more clear. She is a woman, and as every Italian woman, she is naturally engaged in elevating women’s power and society’s perception of the female stance. If you were expecting a Valentino’s modus operandi you were mistaken.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is not easily affected by predictions. She has a vision and she is certainly not playing the safe card. Dior Fall Winter 2017 was entirely declined in shades of blue, a blue that Chiuri found in the archives of Dior – particularly on a taffeta silk dress designed in ’54 - and quickly got fascinated by. It’s the blue of uniforms, of elegant evening dresses and certainly of denim. It’s a young contemporary collection. Chiuri wishes to picture the contemporary woman emerging the tense political climate of our time.
Last season’s motto “We should be all feminists” left the place to a more consistent and strong statement where the clothes speak by themselves. The basques created by Stephen Jones give a further accent in this sense. It almost as we see a troupe of suffragettes, marching one after the other advocating women’s freedom to dress however they find fit.
Nicholas Kirkwood Fall/Winter 2017
“The Dark Matters”, for Fall/Winter 2017 Nicholas Kirkwood created a series of monochromatic shoes with a strong 80s aesthetic.
Geometric and graphic lines adorn the heels and boots for this strong and architectural collection. The English designer - inspired by artists like Daniel Buren - used a sculptural approach and the forever-favourite feminine/masculine dichotomy references.
The austerity of black in contrast with lurex and silver mirror smooth leather uppers, plexi-heels, pearls inlaid into a metal frame sole and luxurious black suede, adorn the collection in a play of contrasts. The name of the collection also refers to a new fabric created by Kirkwood: a black glittering stretchy textile used for a new sock-boot and a slip-on mule. It’s a rich and sophisticated collection with new silhouettes and the omnipresent irreverent mood of Kirkwood’s work
Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Imagine a tribe of legendary models from the 90s, with their ageless beauty, power walk and barely-there makeup. Imagine them now walking for the most loved and respected fashion designer of our time for his 100th show.
Dries van Noten surprised everyone when the show started: all the models who walked for him, from the very beginning, were all present: Amber Valletta, Caroline de Maigret, Malgosia Bela, Kirsten Owen, Trish Goff, Kim Noorda, Guinevere Van Seenus and legendary Kristina de Coninck opening the show. Together with the more recent favourites. It was an overwhelming flow of emotions for whomever has followed and worked with this acclaimed Belgian designer since 1993.
The collection was a parade of all the prints, the cuts, the colours from past collections, the story of Dries van Noten in toto. It was an incredible archive research, as some of the print designs didn’t exist anymore. The strong sentiment of timeless style and ageless beauty was pervasive, look after look. The oversized coat, the relaxed long dresses, the denim, velvet, and beautiful fur stoles. The mix-matched colours with a lemon yellow splashing the entire collection. It was a celebration of joy, of positivity, of the essence of femininity itself.
The sound of a crowded street, the cars, the people, a dog barking accompanied the vastitude of a collection of music and movies extracts played: from Jun Miyake’s Lilies of The Valley - the musician who closely worked together with Pina Bausch, one of Dries Van Noten's dearest muses – to the late David Bowie singing Heroes in the a cappella finale. “…you, you can be mean. And I , I’ll drink all the time. Because we are lovers. That is a fact”
Gucci Fall/Winter 2017-18 The Alchemist's Garden
An air of magical curiosity filled the air as Alessandro Michele's Fall/Winter 2017 Gucci collection was presented at Milan Fashion Week. Complete with streetwear elements, fused with historical costumes and oversized floppy hat featured alongside vest tops with anarchic messaging, the collection was vibrant, exciting and oh-so Gucci.
There's a garden of plants and animals. Inhabited by signs, symbols and archetypes invoking and recalling remote worlds, blending the conscious with the unconscious as imagination forces the inertia of reality. This alchemist's garden is an anti-modern laboratory that refutes rigidity and determinism, aiming instead to recover the complexity of existence with the contradictions that permeate it.
This ubiquitous cycle is perfectly embodied in the Ouroboros, an ancient Egyptian symbol of a snake eating up its own tail. It destroys and conceives in a never ending cycle of self renewal and reflects Alessandro Michele's fascination with the role of fashion in modern society.
Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017
British actor Matthew Goode fronts the new Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017 ad campaign perfectly embodying the mix of elegance and contemporary tradition that defines the brand's aesthetic.
Shot by German photographer Dylan Don outdoors in the ground-breaking Muralla Roja compound is Calpe, Spain, designed by Spanish architect Ricardo Bofil, Goode displays a unique and controlled attitude against the sun-soaked hues of the buildings.
Color, light and the graphic lines of both the location and the clothes play a key role in expressing the essence of the collection and its distinctive mismatch of 3D textures, volumes and shiny/matte effects, all awash in terracotta red, turquoise, plum, sky blue and burnt orange. The striking architecture of the Muralla Roja building, characterized by interlocking strairs, platforms and bridges, exalts a lifestyle appeal that Goode elevates with his effortless and dynamic sprit, melding time-honored savoir-faire with a fashion-forward twist.
Mode Suisse Edition 11
February 8th 2017 marked the showcase of Mode Suisse Edition 11 at the Migros Museum fur Gegenwartskunst in Zurich. Once again, a wealth of design talent was represented. Among them high-flying label Julia Seeman, Garnison's post-dandy menswear, LYN Lingerie's luxury handmande collection, Julian Zigerli's second appearance of womenswear and gender-fluid menswear that have made him a household name as well as Berlin-based experimentalist womenswear label studiowinkler. Additionally WUETHRICHFUERST made their much-anticipated debut.
The evening's highlights included the showcase of Masters' students Jeremy Gaillard, Flore Girard de Langlade and Vanessa Schindler, who is the winner of the Prix d'Excellene Hans Wildorf. Additonally Zurich favourites enSoie had the audience craving for its nonchalant style while Vivienne Rohner strutted the catwalk laid with previously unseen carpets by Schonstaub. Special guest designerDorothee Vogel's desirable duvet coats and floaty dresses ended the show.
Edition 12 of Mode Suisse will take place in Zurich in September 2017.
Christian Dada Fall/Winter 2017
“It was boundless blue, almost transparent. I stood up, and as I walked toward my own apartment, I thought, I want to become like this glass. And then I want to reflect this smooth white curving myself. I want to show other people these splendid curves reflected in me” The melancholic closing words of Ryu Murakami’s Almost transparent blue - one of the most striking Japanese contemporary novelists exploring the themes of youth and drug abuse - echoed in Masanori Morikawa’s new Fall Winter 2017 collection for Christian Dada.
Puffer jackets in aluminium silver as reminiscent of drug wrappers, Coca Cola-red sweatshirts with Heroin written in the same typography as the iconic American drink, sweaters in psychedelic orange and blue tones serving as glimpse of post-drug hallucinations.
Morikawa’s collection is imbued with duality - certainly the epitome of youth itself – and that uncertainty and struggle of reaffirmation of young individuals. We see relaxed men’s cut shirts that reveal an incredible heavy textile at the touch, deconstructed jackets that show the lining on the outside, lurex raw materials, all surprisingly soft to the touch.
The T-shirt and leather sweatshirts in collaboration with former English fashion designer and illustrator Charles Anastase, all point in the same direction.
Yet Morikawa presented a collection with a composite of Japanese nostalgia. Like the summer nights spent wearing Jinbei – but here transposed in leather and denim – or those high school times – with the tartan motifs from school uniforms juxtaposed here with urban silhouettes. Christian Dada is beautifully grown up and we are looking forward to seeing the evolution of the brand.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
A small trumpet as an earring, a shopper completely covered in off-white cable knit wool, a thin leather belt with an ominous brass nose on its centre. The collection of objets trouvés that populated Loewe Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 is not a new element for the quirky mind of creative director Jonathan Anderson.
The mix of fun, classic, and urban elements is something we have seen season after season where individuality has been the key. Beautiful leatherwork as rooted in the brand's Spanish heritage, but also Anderson’s favourite hints to fishermen and sailors’ daily-life. Presented in the Parisian showroom the collection is the image of a further complexity and playful daring attitude from the English designer now in his fourth year at the helm of Loewe.
It was certainly the beautiful shearling one of the spotlight of the collection. In deep cobalt blue with black leather details, in denim, or in a striped rainbow coloured version, to pump up our gloomy mood in rainy, cold Paris.
Mixed and matched tartans and handbags with imaginary propaganda newspaper titles gave a further energising accent to a splendid collection full of craftsmanship and a romantic post-industrial atmosphere.
G-STAR RAW presents RAW RESEARCH II by Aitor Throup
Exploring the unlimited possibilities of denim has become Dutch brand G-STAR RAW's latest challenge. The brand presented its latest project, RAW RESEARCH II, in Paris' Palais De Tokyo.
Curiosity and experimentations brought this project to life creating a capsule collection, its pieces a prototype of the latest in denim innovation. The collection features a brand new 3D denim concept: the “ Motac” series. An ergonomic study of the human body in motion gave birth to Motac, created to make garments with perfect fit and versatility thanks to a combination of rigid denim and flexible fabric panels.
To pay homage to G-STAR RAW's homeland, its new creative director Aitor Throup used the iconic Dutch tulip as a conceptual backdrop. Tradition and innovation were brilliantly fused together.
GmbH Fall/Winter 2017: When a thought becomes you
In a Society of Limitations where people are together yet alone, GmbH addresses the situation with an inclusive Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to different shapes, gestures and manners.
The collection paired fashion with sustainability featuring bi-colour cropped GmbH biker jackets reworked from recycled, reversible Helly Hansen puffer coats, cropped jersey hoodies and fine knit athletic bodies of partially recycled fibres. A shot of glamour is given by tight lycra and velvet long-sleeved jumpers in a color palette inspired by artist Alexandra Bircken. Moreover traditional carpenter’s guild trousers and gold embroideries enrich the outfits for an even more personal touch.
As GmbH declared: “These are directives for care and wear, eine wahre Geschichte, eine Warengeschichte, a true story a history of wares.”
Kenzo Fall/Winter Menswear 2017
Imagine the backstage of a show brought on stage, in the spotlight, able to witness it at 360°, as in Walter Gropius’s Total Theatre: from the make-up to the models line-up, from the food banquet to the backstage photographers roaming around, from the seamstress fixing the last detail seconds before the start to the laughs between models.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim created this unexpected backdrop for Kenzo Menswear and Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection in the name of the environment, making clothes the real stars of the runway and leaving the backdrop in its neutrality in order to give funds to environment organizations instead of making a wonderful yet costly set.
A vision that was reflected all over this Arctic inspired collection. The triggering Arctic changes and the – unknown to many – Arctic surfing were, indeed, the paths followed by Leon and Lim who presented a multitude of over-layered looks in an impressive colour palette. It was overwhelming and, as Kenzo’s signature, fun and youthful.
The dip-dyed long knits in rainbow colours with matching ski masks worn under solid coloured puffa jackets and graphic digitally printed technical ski suits.
The Womenswear collection followed up in a more gentle and feminine declination. We saw easy urban long cable knit dresses, A –line coats, teddy handbags and delicate dresses with transversal side cuts, revealing floating strings, as a sort of intellectual reference to the increasingly undergoing destruction of our Mother Earth.
A dandy poem by Alexander McQueen
A dandy spirit that explores the deepest sides of Oscar Wilde's soul during an esoteric trip that Germans call Wanderlust. A contemporary gentleman traveling from London's Tite Street to Paris Saint Germain seeking inspiration from the world that surrounds him.
Alexander McQueen documents this journey through his latest menswear collection, paying homage to the man who has become synonymous with the term 'esthete'. British tailoring plays a central role in a collection that encapsulates and celebrates the house's trademark codes. Precise and elongated cuts in suits with peaked shoulders and legged or flare trouser silhouettes – worn cropped above the ankle and sometimes with a satin or velvet band on the sides, offer their elegance to coats and jackets alongside jacquards with peacock feathers for the most daring dandies. The collection also explores and plays with proportions, combining classic and more of-the-moment oversized fits to give birth to a new hybrid of men's shirt-dresses. A worn-in feel is brought forward by mohair knits, frayed at the edges and laddered with holes. For the evening, Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2017 features tuxedos, smoking jackets and robes with satin quilted reveres, embroidered velvet and jacquard to give an incredible taste of elegance to a collection that is worth of an old-fashioned gentleman.
McQueen's latest collection is a true ode to Oscar Wilde, done in incomparable style and honing in on elements that have granted the brand the status it holds today. No doubt it will be at the receiving end of countless praises this season.
Rocking it with Dior Homme
A utopian sense of refined grunge has always characterized Kris Van Assche's creative direction at Dior. For Dior Homme Summer 2017, Van Assche's dynamic energy is reflected through a new generation of four inspired characters: A$AP ROCKY, Boy George, Rami Malek and Ernst Klimko.
A 'do it Yourself' attitude runs through the brand's creative direction this season, a path that the four diverse Dior Homme personalities will follow, eventually converging to personify the house's vision of Homme. The campaign's four faces may embody different disciplines of modern art but through Van Assche's direction, they provide an all-encompassing, cohesive undertone for the French house's men's collection.
Interestingly, hip-hop is made elegant in this line giving birth to intriguing pieces such as the dark floral garments designed by Japanese artist Toru Kamei.
Shot through the streets of Paris and in studio by photographer Willy Vanderperre, the campaign pairs heritage and an innovative rock, raw-edge mood that will undoubtedly make it a key player in Dior's already impressive campaign portfolio.
Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture moment has come
Schiaparelli Maison, Chanel's historical rival is definitely back on the scene after a long hiatus. This January marks a milestone for the celebrated maison as the French Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture decided to enlist Schiaparelli among the 15 fashion haute couture brands existing in the world.
Ravaged by the aftermath of the war, Elsa Schiaparelli closed her iconic Paris "Schiap Shop" in 1954, the very same year that saw the release of her autobiography "Shocking Life". It was only three years ago that Italian businessman Diego Della Valle decided to revive Schiaparelli, believing in the power of its indomitable style and unparalleled innovative techniques.
Alongside stores of long-established brands in the field such as Chanel, Givenchy and Dior to name a few, Elsa's shop in Paris' Place Vendome is opening its doors again to pick up where it left of, starting a new chapter in haute couture history.
LOUIS VUITTON CELEBRATES 30TH ANNIVERSARY IN BERLIN
France and Germany join in for the celebration of 30 years of Louis Vuitton, the brand synonymous in everyone's mind and many hearts with élégance française.
Louis Vuitton celebrated its birthday with the opening of its latest concept store in Berlin's Kurfürstendamm. Celebrities and influencers from the world of fashion were present to mark the joyous occasion. A combination of craftsmanship, savoir-faire, continuous innovation and heritage - all keywords for the long established brand as well as the city that played host to its celebrations.
Berlin incomparably contemporary dynamism and Parisian haute couture give birth to 'amour toujours'.
The world through Henk Schiffmacher’s “camereyes”
When Texas, Henk Schffmacher's daughter discovered her father's old 35mm negatives in a dusty drawer, she knew they had to be exposed for the world to see.
Dutch tattoo artist, Henk Schiffmacher has become known for his energetic and observational photographic work that is now being collected and exhibited for the first time ever. Highlighting the best and worst facets of modern society, this eclectic ensemble of pictures is a real representation of the world we live in through Schiffmacher's camera.
Taken between 1970 and 1985 these pictures give us a raw insight into the world of youths, bikers and tattoo fetishists from all around the globe – from Las Vegas, L.A., Amsterdam, and Tokyo to Mumbai, Manila, San Francisco and Kuala Lumpur.
This makes for an interesting juxtaposition: a wild mix of cultures, nationalities and excess against the backdrop of vintage cityscapes and timeless scenarios. Schiffmacher's photography offers a unique and brilliant view of the world as it was four decades ago.
Pure, direct and unprecedented just like photography should be.
KENZO X EASTPAK…and CHARITY
Once again the iconic Padded Pak’r® backpack by Eastpak will serve as the “carte blanche” given to a selection of the world’s most influential designers to create a unique work of art.
When it comes to creativity and eccentricity, Kenzo, one of the brands participating in Eastpak’s Artist Studio competition along with Giambattista Valli and Vêtements, never disappoints giving birth to a “never-seen-before” piece. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s prints trimmed with a tiger claw key holder and a graphic Kenzo towel and hat, were assembled in a collage that not only twins Eastpak and Kenzo, but fashion and charity too.
The collection, comprised of one-off creations from each designer will drop on the 1st of December, World AIDS day. And for a good cause too: all proceeds go to the Designers Against AIDS organization to raise awareness, even among fashion victims, for HIV/AIDS.
Miami Beach Art Basel 2016: between emerging artists and Zoo’s familiar faces
Between the 1st and the 4th of December, Miami’s miles of sandy beaches and glittering nightlife will transform into a dense and dynamic cultural event: The Miami Art Basel.
269 leading galleries from all over the world will provide visitors the opportunity to experience works from the masters of modern and contemporary art, as well as discovering the creativity and freshness of new emerging stars.
The main exhibition hall will house paintings, drawings, sculptures and photographs from world-renowned creators while the nearby beaches will serve as the backdrop for ambitious artwork, film installations and performances. Artists from an array of cultural backgrounds, different generations and art styles will offer visitors a glimpse into their creative minds in order to enhance the way that the infinite world of art is brought to the public.
Miami Art Basel is fast approaching and amongst the many to showcase their talent, we have spotted a few familiar faces. What better way to participate in this celebration of Art? Let’s revisit the work of some who have graced the pages of ZOO Magazine throughout the years in our selection below:
Courtesy of SCAI THE BATHHOUSE
The Day the World Turned Auerbach, 1991
Courtesy of the artist
The Flux and the Puddle, 2014
Courtesy of Andrea Rosen Gallery, New York
Courtesy of Alex Daniels
Dance your style off at Pitti Uomo 2017
Between 10-13th of January, dance and fashion will create a perfect parallelism in what is preannounced to be the most multimedia and vibrant edition of Pitti Uomo.
During its 91st season, the Florence fashion kermises will show the previews of F/W menswear collections following the slogan “ Tell me how you dance and I’ll tell you how you dress”.
Pitti Dance Off, the theme chosen for the whole exhibition, wants to be an invitation to express our body and attitude evoking the ultimate essence of diversity and encouraging freedom of personal style as a common thread for both dance and fashion. Over 1220 brands, among Zegna, Paul Smith, Tommy Hilfiger and new emerging talents will participate, dancing together at the rhythm of street style music. A special #PittiSign has also been launched, a sort of distinctive “finger tut” taken from the street dance tradition in order to symbolize Pitti Immagine’s initials and create awareness around the exhibition between the youngest.
With sets designed by architect and designer Oliviero Baldini, irony will be the key to literally invade the famous Fortezza da Basso welcoming new menswear, and maybe social, horizons.
Acne Studios now open in NYC
The corner of Madison Avenue and East 74th street, New York city – the Big Apple's iconic block has just been injected with a fresh and futuristic allure.
The novelty comes from Scandinavian brand Acne Studios, known for its well-designed signature pieces, that has just opened its latest flagship in the city that never sleeps.
Here, design meets fashion through the use of gold as Acne's signature tone along with interiors fully decorated with gilded metal walls and aluminum fittings. Colors and lights in fresh combinations make for a stand-out yet recognizable look. Black asphalt floors dotted with glittered stones meet crafted bronze desks under a full lighting ceiling that brighten up the entire space.
Acne Studios founder Jonny Johansson was attracted by the city's multicultural identity which he believes to be the future but was eager to retain the city's essence in the store's design. “I think you always have to consider what space you’re in, where you are, what your opinion is about that. It’s more work, and it’s probably more expensive in the end too, but it’s also more fun.”
Amsterdam welcomes Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house renowned for its unparalleled craftsmanship and keen eye for detail, opens its much-anticipated first store in Amsterdam tonight. Located on 60, Pieter Cornelisz Hoofstraat, the two-floor store offers a wide selection of Bottega Veneta products: the brand's iconic bags and leather goods, the ready-to-wear collection as well as accessories for both men and women. An embodiment of Bottega Veneta's timeless elegance and refinement, the store's concept was designed by brand creative director, Tomas Maier and features an array of notable features guaranteed to provide visitors with a private and comfortable shopping experience.
Emotions of the Athletic Body
Giorgio Armani may not be antagonising the wave of riotous change this season, but unruliness has never been his game. Armani has remained a respectable pillar of Italian fashion for its faithfulness to a fundamental aesthetic – a disciplined dress code which only surpasses itself with the passing of the seasons, embracing innovation and so setting the bar higher. On cue, SS17 sculpted an artful offering of the classic chrome color palette, burnished silver silks bleeding into the Persian blues of painterly prints. Fabrics fell with the weight of a feather, film-fine cardigans cutting across bodies to drape over gathered city shorts. Technicality tended to fluid fabrics, filing them with a terse edge, as laser cutting boned a skeletal lattice of ankle boots, and light trails traced satin shell tops as digi-prints. Florals blotted and blurred across bunched ruffled tea dresses and watery kimonos whose hems frothed a foam of macramé tassles. Tailoring, meanwhile, punctured blunt shapes in thermos-sealed neoprene, cropped jackets uncompromisingly ageless despite their advanced engineering. It’s no coincidence that Armani’s dexterity under discipline spawns an esteem for the mastery of sport. Staging at Milan’s Armani/Silos gallery, the designer has curated a photographic display depicting the admirable art of athletics. With shots dating from 1985 to the present day, images exude an enduring power and permanence printed onto imposing slabs of concrete, and feature the world’s most legendary athletes wearing Armani, sourced from campaigns, magazines and a previously unseen archive.
Emotions of the Athletic Body runs at Armani/Silos until November 27th 2016.
Ingrid Baars – Bloom! exhibition
Dutch visual artist Ingrid Baars has opened her third solo exhibition “Bloom!” at the Rademakers Gallery in Amsterdam. The exhibition represents her on going project “L’Afrique!”, influenced by the diversity in African culture. Through Baars’ primary photoshoot and photo manipulation techniques, objects of African culture heritage, African woman and dress are visualized in a surreal yet beautifully executed manner across the gallery.
“Bloom!” will be on display until November 20th 2016.
Emporio Armani Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear
In the occasion of the store re-opening in Boulevard St-Germain, Giorgio Armani surprised everyone staging Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2017 show in Paris. Entering the venue in Bercy arena we all felt that disarming disorientation. Where are we? Is this really the French capital or we have been teleported in Armani HQ in Milan? Giorgio Armani built a set evoking his very own Tadao Ando’s theatre and its striking minimalism. The squared mirrored catwalk, the descending seating. The pitch black and luminous white. As almost as whispering that Armani empire, style and philosophy can raise anywhere. The collection was eclectic. If the first squad - including some male models - arrived in composed functional looks in the tones of desaturated blue and grey, an extreme variation of styles and colours took the lead. Soft silk satin pyjamas, unstructured blazers with matching trousers forming that perfect contemporary power suit. Liquid fabrics ruling tailored pieces. As the troop continued marching in we saw coral red hues, faded green, white, cobalt blue, purple. And the unexpected South Asian elephant prints, becoming the running theme through part of the collection: at the hems of pants or adorning the neckline of the summery long dresses. There was a multitude of accessories, from flats-shoes to heels of all shapes, small bags worn at the waist or crossbody, statement earrings. All meticulously styled. Emporio Armani for Spring 2017 displayed that urban language, typical of the label, but also the essence of its young broad audience in all the facets.
Christian Dior Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
With this last fashion week ruled by new creative directors stepping in at the helm of historical French fashion houses, it goes without saying that the debut of Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior — after almost a decade at the rein of Valentino together with Pier Paolo Piccioli — would have been waited with extreme anticipation.
The new Dior woman for Spring Summer 2017 is not afraid of showing her weaknesses, her romantic side - and why not — her unpredictable mood. Ruled by the moon. “La lune” (the moon) on a chunky grey wool sweater and the other tarots cards engraved on squared evening clutches, or intrinsically embroidered on evening gowns. They are all symbols of this new Dior, but also homage to the superstitious Christian Dior himself. The French master was obsessed with astrology and other myths of the occult, and certainly this collection wanted to be inspired by his legacy more in spirit than in form.
We saw that vocabulary that was once the signature of Chiuri and Piccioli for Valentino: transparency made of dreamlike sheer tulle in powder ivory, white, black, and a deep red, together with polka dots and precisely constructed bustiers. Underneath, the minimalist ironic men-like underwear marked with “Christian Dior, j’aDior” motto at the elastic waistband. It’s Maria Grazia’s Dior and no one else’s.
The slogan “We should all be feminists” on a t-shirt sounded more of a provocation than an admonition. This is not a woman who in the process of advocating gender equality renounce to womanhood in order to be a surrogate resemblance of her male counterpart – on the contrary she is embracing her femininity where feminism is the vehicle for empowering and liberation.
Nike VaporMax for COMME des GARCONS
Available early 2017 and announced during the CDG Spring 2017 runway show, designer Reo Kawakubo joins forces with Nike to create the Nike VaporMax for COMME des GARCONS. The VaporMax Air, which is described as “a powerful visual appearance of walking on air” consists of a thin consistency providing cushioning. Redesigned to fit Kawakubo’s contemporary aesthetic, the new model is a slip-on alternative of the VaporMax.
Bottega Veneta Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Muddy hues made their mark at Bottega Veneta but the overall effect was anything but beige. Rather, it primed a canvas of classics from which showpieces would pop. And there was good reason to call upon the party clothes; 2016 marks a special year for the brand, not only the 50th anniversary of the fashion house, but also its 15th year under the Creative Direction of Tomas Maier. In spirit of occasion, Maier’s forward-thinking retrospective featured more than a few familiar faces, from Eva Herzigova and Lauren Hutton to Bella and Gigi Hadid. As a performance piece it pleased crowds, but as a practice of the practicality of Bottega Veneta, it blew minds – it confirmed that which we had always supposed but never truly knew: Bottega makes clothes we can all wear – nuanced, transitional clothes which seem to shapeshift according to the spirit of the woman who wears them. SS17 sculpted supple shells of coffee-colored crocodile, swinging to calves as mackintosh coats or cropped as curt little bikers. Separates clung to the torso in flimsy wools, button-up blouses making a second skin of macramé as A-line skirts sheathed legs in shaggy sable lace. Color was rationed, but when it bled through the cracks, it blazed. Lurid contrasts courted hot pink yarns against waxy red leather skirts, cinched like paper bags at the waist, while ditsy florals found their way onto faded reams of lemon yellow cotton, bound and belted around the body as refreshingly modest wrap dresses. This tack’s been on the table for fifty years, but it’s a sensibility that hasn’t gone stale. Here’s to another half century…
Saint Laurent Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
When in mid September Saint Laurent surprisingly released an image shot by Inez and Vinoodh as preview for the new collection by Antony Vaccarello the mood was already set. Featuring his forever favourite muse Anja Rubik in a leather embroidered body suit matched with a denim jacket and a strong sensual look the designer gave a taste of his new direction.
Vaccarello created a collection very much rooted in his DNA.: leather, sexy on its extreme, naked. As declared by the Belgian born designer himself, his point of reference, a puff shouldered dress designed by Yves in ’82, embraced the whole collection. It’s the trashy spirit of the 80s, the clubs, the black fishnet tights, the denim and the heart shaped neckline. Vaccarello declined it with bosom bared through transparent chiffon, velvet, dark gold lamé, vertiginous short skirts. Staging an homage to the French master but mainly surely drawing the line of what his new course for Saint Laurent — soon to be back with “Yves” in its logo as announced by the fashion house — will look like.
Moncler Boutique Macau Wynn Palace
The second Moncler boutique in Macau has opened at the Wynn Palace. The interior of the 130 mq store is developed by architectural firm Gilles&Boissier. Two large shopping windows invite the consumer in the Moncler sphere. Grey marble floors and white walls create a modern shopping space, which will sell Moncler Gamme Rouge Ready-to-Wear, Moncler and Moncler Grenoble as well as the accessories collection for men and women. The opening of the Wynn Palace boutique comes a year after the first franchise opened at the Galaxy Macau.
Adidas at the Olympics in Rio
Designed for the athletes currently in Rio for the Olympics and competing in September at the Paralympic games, Adidas has developed a variety of new applied science, coloured BOOST technology and designs in athletic shoes. The adizero MD is suitable for races between 800- and 1.500 meter, allowing for higher speeds on the curves of the running course through the special Pebax-and TPU sole. The adizero Avanti design is primarily designed for long distance runs from 1500m to 10000m. This is the first shoe to only have four instead of the usual five spikes, which makes the shoe lighter but still grants enough stability. The 360-Degree Printed Knit, as there’s no insole necessary, is one of the lightest shoes Adidas has ever developed, while the adizero adios is the fastest running shoe in the world at the moment, with German running-twins Anna and Lisa Hahner sporting them on their feet.
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. returns to where the brand started in 1830 in its latest Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, as they collaborate with conceptual photographer Jackie Nickerson and work on a Roadtrip project, shot in the historic Woolen Mills, Pennsylvania. The America-born brand is founded on tradition and adaption, proved in the images being shot in and around Woolen Mills, showing the brands’ signature manufacturing process and standards between industrial production, nature and social responsibilities, while also being innovative with modern outerwear.
Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Photography duo Santiago&Mauricio worked alongside Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti and stylist Davey Sutton for the Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign, translating fashion culture and creating a dialogue in a series of honest and humoristic images. As diesel celebrates difference and diversity, cast are a group of individuals with different cultures and personalities. “We worked with director/photographer duo Santiago & Mauricio to shoot beautiful ad impactful images where the product is celebrated with a twist on the traditional advertising images“, reveals Formnichetti.
Alexander McQueen AW16 Campaign
Creative director Sarah Burton and photographer Jamie Hawkesworth came together to create the Alexander McQueen AW16 Campaign, featuring in demand model Mica Arganaraz. The duo has a shared love for British nature and wildlife, which brought them to Shetland, a subarctic island northeast from Great Britain. Placed in the rocky Scottish landscape, Hawkesworth’s images portray a sense of young and surrealistic beauty and continue McQueen’s admiration for romantic, natural scenery.
Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2016/17 Campaign
“The inspiration for the campaign was completely guided by our Paris show collection”, says Andreas Kronthaler of the Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2016/17 Campaign which features Ms. Westwood herself. Shot by Juergen Teller and styled by Sabina Schreder, the campaign portrays a spiritual look, cast with a fun and young group of boys and girls, styled in an "East meets West" theme. Kronthaler explains when envisioning the campaign, they were focused on finding a spiritual place to shoot and stumbled upon a middle-eastern rug, which gave them inspiration.
Viktor&Rolf Autumn/Winter 2016
Recycling is the main inspiration for Viktor&Rolf Couture Autumn/Winter 2016, as they look and use their own archive as starting point for their newest collection. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren use torn up fabrics and mix them to create a new abundant silhouette. The garments are embroidered with buttons, beats and crystals, the looks styled with top hats. Another influence for the collection is Dickens’ Vagabonds, quoting; “Those that belong nowhere, wandering from place to place, roaming the city.” The final sees the wanderers, roaming the runway.
Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall 2016
John Galliano has a much more personal understanding of Maison Margiela for its Artisanal Fall 2016, in which he experiments with a different take on haute couture. “A sense of the incredible and the impossible spins throughout the Artisanal collection, where fantasy is tempered by the jarring authenticity of today’s reality.” A satin orangza dress is draped around the models body, printed with Nick Knight’s British Birds (2008) styled with a cycling top, arctic blue gloves and dark brown clogs, her headpiece resembling a string of seashells. Another model is dressed in an upside down orange coat, worn over a navy shift dressed, paired with rubber-soled thigh-high black ‘Tabi’ boots.
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016/17
Circus, the famous collection for summer 1938 inspired this season’s new show, which almost felt magical. Sharp silhouettes and sparkling details defined the wardrobe for a strong, confident woman with Parisian charisma yet worldly imagination. The Schiaparelli’s jacket is architecturally structured with striking shoulder lining, while keeping its femininity through the fluidity and sheerness of the dresses. This collection stays through to Schiaparelli’s signature style of infusing art into fashion and plays with sensuality through added slits and shorts.
Moncler O Autumn/Winter 2016/17
In collaboration with Off-White’s creative director Virgil Abloh, Moncler announces it’s Menswear Autumn/Winter 2016/17 collection, called Moncler O. The range of clothing is influenced by fishermen of the Northern seas, made apparent in the collection’s waistcoats animating lifejackets along with long jackets including detachable or fixed hoods and short parkas. This collaboration makes for a unique collection, as there is a blend of street style and technical elements. The mix of materials is therefor unexpected, as we see PVC, nylon and other rubbery fabrics, incorporating prints featuring stormy skies, but also a nostalgic look made in pure wool crêpe. Abloh’s hallmark is in the form of the diagonal stripes present throughout the collection.
Interview Dawid Tomaszweski at Berlin Fashion Week SS17
German-Polish designer Dawid Tomaszweski started up his business in 2009 and has in just a short time drawn us all in with his refreshing new take on luxury women’s wear. We spoke to Dawid after his Spring 2017 show at Berlin Fashion Week.
Hi Dawid - You’ve been designing for quite some time now. Do you still get nervous before your show?
I still get a little bit anxiety before every show. I have never done a show based on whether it will work or not. Every collection is a result of hard work. In the collection I always show my vulnerability, so I still get the butterflies in my stomach before the show.
As a designer always staying ahead of what’s already been done, and creating innovative and modern collections, where do you get your inspiration from?
My surrounding is my inspiration. One one hand - the city that I am living in Berlin, it’s contemporary art, painters, architects etc. On the other hand - I get my inspiration from people, who are around me. My friends, family and of course from my mom - the biggest supporter, the woman who has a huge influence in my life and will always have.
Autumn/Winter 2016 was shown in January, which was a structured, coloured collection. How is Spring 2017 different?
Spring 2017 is a new chapter in my ''collection book’’. It is a new story, a fantasy, a sweet dream that comes true. Delicate, soft pallets, gentle feminine silhouettes, the fairy tale that was named ''Blushes’’.
Your garments have been featured in magazines like Vogue and Vanity Fair. Has there been a turning point in your career that stands out?
For sure. Appearance in such magazines as Vogue, Vanity Fair means a lot to me as well as to my brand. But I’ve never created for fame or success. I am just doing what I love. I am truly dedicated to my job and it is a result of my work.
Berlin has turned into a fashion hot spot in recent years. What is it about Berlin?
Berlin is a place where so many cultures, ethnicities and nationalities found their corners, it is a city that ''has something in stock’’ for everyone. It is always changing, open-minded city, free and wild.
Is there anything you’d still like to achieve? What does the future hold for Dawid Tomaszweski?
I have never limited myself with my dreams. I create, I design and I see the results. I’m not thinking what future holds for me, I am working on my future and I am achieving.
MBFW: Wendy&Jim SS17
In seventeen years of creative matrimony Hermann Fankhauser and Helga Ruthner of Wendy&Jim have yet to show signs of slowing down. Their showcase for SS17 at Berlin’s famed Galerie Crone was a breath of fresh air as much as a throwback to fashion’s heyday in the ought’s. After meeting at the Viennese University of Applied Arts in 1999, where Helmut Lang mentored them, they moved on to be a fixture at Paris Fashion Week – a promising teaser for their stint at MBFWB. A wonderland somewhere between Japanese manga and street performer opened up on the gallery’s first floor: a cross-legged model in a long black robe with pleats hovers about a meter above an artificial patch of grass, littered with cigarette buds and all. Another, dressed in a flower-clad kimono, holds on to a potted plant while the next one floats beside a street sign.
The collection itself is urban street wear rooted smack dab in the middle of Antwerp and Tokyo: an International Klein Blue hooded track suit paired with yellow socks in sandals and reflective wrist bands or a tunic and long skirt adorned with flowers. A little more out there, yet wearable are drop-crotch cycling shorts with spandex-turned-stray jacket tops in either yellow or red paired with cowboy boots or an equally tight ensemble of cycling shorts and crop top emblazoned with a creature that’s half snake, half sassy lady sticking out her tongue. A second room held a much more somber installation: a model in a white jumpsuit hovered above a bed in an otherwise dark room, while a performer on his illuminated skateboard circled the room, reliving the last days of disco. An exciting SS17 collection and an equal parts whacky and enchanting presentation by Wendy&Jim only begs one question: Will you be back for more, please?
Amanda Seyfried for Miu Miu AW 2016
Miu Miu has fused high-society with a modern twist for their AW16 campaign, shot by the renowned Alasdair McLellan and and styled by LOVE magazine’s Katie Grand. The collaged images featuring Amanda Seyfried depict a high society replete with tea maids and pearls, with a distinct Miu Miu spin on the coquettish elite. Following in the footsteps of last week's eyewear campaign featuring 14-year old Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford's daughter, these striking images are sure to turn heads.
Nosomnia SS17 Preview
A brand that “develops a hybrid between classical menswear and urban style through innovative ideas and unexpected creation.” Keep your eyes on Copenhagen-based menswear brand Nosomnia, who’s just announced a preview for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection called ‘Every Piece Matters’. The preview is a series of serene, but artistic images shot in a field, capturing the dynamic use of colour in the collection, the embroidered detailing in the garments and the brands nostalgic touch of youth.
PFW: Loewe Presentation Spring 2017
Loewe unveils its Spring 17 collection in a suggestive setting where Ibiza summer nights and a bohemian lifestyle reinterpreted are protagonist. Jonathan Anderson again plays around the contrast of natural textiles like linen, cotton, cord together with the main star of the brand, leather. Fluent long tunics in organic natural shades are combined with modern siluettes in pop colours. Relaxed, fresh and youthful. A summer time where we are all dreaming to dive.
PFW: ACNE STUDIOS SPRING 2017
"A fresh take on menswear – one that is very crip and clear,” thus revealing Creative Director Jonny Johansson. Presented in the Lycée Charlemagne, Acne Studios Spring 2017 resembles the atmosphere of Swedish summers, as the collection looks at materials and silhouettes inspired by tents and uses colours and patterns giving a sense of nostalgia. Waterproof jackets are incorporated into the collection, which is where we see the tent-influence; the zip-up jackets have an A-line silhouette on the back which resembles tents, while ponchos are made to be fastened in multiple ways. Knitwear is designed in a variety of densities and styled with shirts underneath and wide-legged pants featuring long zips on the side.
PFW: GIVENCHY SPRING 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 for Givenchy presents an urban, travel collection, blending precise tailoring with hints to signature street style elements. Riccardo Tisci has yet again achieved to create a line-up of attractive attire, with styling immaculately done by Katy England. Models are donned with gelled hair and what looks like ear stretchers. The colour palette shows camouflage colours, striped ensembles and prints including pyramid symbols and the Eye of Providence. Models Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid featured on the runway showing the brands women’s wear.
Palm Angels Spring/Summer 2017
Francesco Ragazzi reveals he looks through the Palm Angels book and choses an image to get inspired, this time one of a skater reminding him of Jimi Hendrix. Ragazzi envisions today’s youth at modern music festivals like Glastonbury and Coachella, meeting for their collective love for music and new icons. Palm Angels exhibits this new generation in its latest collection, which is filled with youthful, energetic pieces and gives off a athletic and college vibe.
Keira Knightley for CHANEL
CHANEL reveals as new face for the COCO CRUSH advertising campaign for Fall 2016 being British actress Keira Knightley, directed by Mario Testino. The actress perfectly expresses the Fine Jewelry collection through her sophistication and style. Knightley has been a good friend of the fashion house and is linked to the brand as being the face of the COCO MADEMOISELLE perfume and the ROUGE COCO collection.
MFW: PRADA SPRING 2017
“This idea of traveling, sharing, joining different cultures interests me”, Miuccia Prada reveals when the Prada Men’s Spring 2017 show has finished. This vision is clearly noticeable in the collection, as every model wears tribal hiking sandals and carries a heavy backpack down the runway. Active-wear is big this show season and Prada is not staying behind, as their collection includes bulging parkas and rain pants. It felt different for the brand, but it worked out brilliantly. Miuccia Prada added “I’m kind of finished with vintage”, therefore explaining the new direction the collection has gone into.
MFW: MONCLER SPRING 2017
Thom Browne has created a collection inspired by American Boy Scouts and camping for the MONCLER GAMME BLEU SPRING/SUMMER 2017. The presentation is divided in three groups, one in all-khaki, a group mixed with checkered forest green, brown and whites and a formal group primarily wearing brown and navy. The tailored pieces are made in technical fabrics the French brand is known for, with details created via mediums such as laser cut and thermo bonding, which gives the active sportswear/ outerwear collection a functional aesthetic.
MFW: GIORGIO ARMANI SPRING 2017
Giorgio Armani’s Spring/ Summer 2017 embraces change and crosses borders, but remains true to the brands philosophy as it evolves into a mysterious yet urban collection. Garments are designed with a mix of geometric patterns and graphic elements, which somehow give of a Caribbean finish. The fit is loose, trousers oversized but it has a clean-cut undertone, perhaps through the colour choices. Its colour palette is romantic, orange tinted reds styled with an array of warm greys and light blues.
MFW: DIESEL BLACK GOLD SPRING 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad retreats to the root of denim for Spring 2017. Melbostad was influenced by late American photographer Irving Penn's images collected in his “Small Trades” book, which showed a diverse range of working class people. As Diesel Black Gold established aesthetic is utilitarian and functional, you can understand the connection. Denim pants are styled with a variety of shirts, including a new kimono style. Proposing a sophisticated sporty touch, nylon is used in the collection in jackets and trousers. The look is complete with utility sandals and canvas sneakers.
Hugo 'Your Suit, Your Way'
HUGO’s ‘Your Suit, Your Way’ campaign breaks the boundaries of convention and reveals the dynamic attitude of the Superblack suit. Set on the edge of Malta’s dramatic coastline and the impressive sea arch, it provides the ultimate setting for cliff diver David Colturi to push himself, both physically and mentally, to demonstrate the Superblack suit’s power. The video finds Colturi standing determinedly in the suit on the cliff face, before breaking into a run, then leaping into the unknown, turning in the air and plunging into the sea.
The campaign delivers an unexpected perspective and shows how the HUGO Superblack suit, with its innovative tailoring and modern slim-fit style, inspires men to wear a suit in new, individual ways that defy convention. The message is clear: the Superblack suit, made using double-dyed yarn for a deep black color and iconic HUGO style, can be worn anytime, anywhere.
Theory l Pre-Fall 2016
When Theory presents the new Pre-Fall 2016 women and men collection this means that this winter has it all. Apart from the always smart and safe black, it also introduces more colours such as red, yellow, grey, burgundy and khaki. The collection is smart chic with coats, shirts, pullovers, light trousers and pleaded skirts and tops. Theory presents white as one of the winter colour in skirts, trousers, coats and shirts that gives the collection an extra elegance. The menswear collection is more focused on black, brown and grey in trench coats, coats, trousers and blouses. Jeans are always on fashion matched with smart jumpers. Theory introduces leather as the winter’s trend with the legendary biker’s jacket.
Dior Homme Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Dior Homme has launched its Autumn/Winter 16/17 campaign, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo. The campaign expresses diverse backgrounds in creative fields such as music, photography, film and fashion and has a sense of duality of youth and experienced. Headlining the cast of muses is American rapper and fashion icon A$AP Rocky, highly praised for both his music directory and personal style, personifying the urban and masculinity of the brand in the images.
Photographer and filmmaker Larry Clark very elegantly features in the campaign, in a distinct and dark series of portraits.
On the forefront of a new era in art-house cinema is 20-year old French actor Rod Paradot, pictured dressed in smart coats and formal eveningwear.
Last new face is model Dylan Roques. who is no stranger to the brand as he has opened the runway just last season, who expresses the rebellious energy of Dior Homme.
Second time BFA Menswear Designer winner J.W.Anderson latest collection has drawn inspiration from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s novel Le Petit Prince, a philosophical story pointing out the abnormalities of adult life. Though J.W.Anderson mentions, this collection is ‘’not about being nostalgic, it’s about being childlike.’’ Swimming goggles, headpieces resembling crowns, extremely long sleeves and sweaters tied around the waist indicate to this childlike theme, but its a refreshing way of accenting the collection. ‘Petite’ trench coats, culottes and shoulder bags granted the compilation the androgynous view J.W.Anderson swears by, but military bombers and plaid shirts were also included, giving the collection a masculine touch.
Giorgio Armani Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Giorgio Armani reveals its Autumn/Winter 2016/17 campaign, shot by fashion photography duo Mert and Marcus (Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott). Both photographers have said they are heavily influenced by photographer Guy Bourdin, which shows in their latest work. Modelling for this shoot were models Maartje Verhoef, Heather Kemesky, Julian Schneyder, André Bona, Mathilde Brandi, and Andrey Zakharov, who were photographed in black and white, which the brand describes as giving it an atmosphere that is subtly introspective and suggests a sense of realism.
New Collection The Vampire's Wife
Strongly influenced by her husband, Nick Cave’s lyrics and with a desire to create the feminine and delicate clothing she was missing, Susie Cave created her own fashion brand. Having had more than 20 years experience in the fashion industry prior to starting up the business, she knows what looks and feels good on women and what doesn’t work. The former model worked closely together with her friend Alex Ademson and founded the new brand The Vampire’s Wife when she couldn’t find anything she’d like to wear. As she told Vogue the garments are, amongst other things, inspired by Russian Ballet and raw nature. The new collection has just been launched and is available on matchesfashion.com
Versace and Bruce Weber, A Golden Match
Versace has collaborated with photographer Bruce Weber on their Fall/Winter 2016 campaign. Weber is not a stranger to the brand, as he is behind most historic images for the brand ever since they started working together in 1990. This time around the campaign features supermodels Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Dilone in different scenarios. One of them being an ultra dazzling and glossy life-style, the other a day-to-day stroll with the kids, a modern looking family. The images show the versatility of the items and thus making it relatable. Shot in Chicago, Weber has decided to include men and womenswear together. Donatella Versace speaks highly of the collaboration with Weber, as they haven't worked together since 1999, with the following; ”Bruce Weber is the true master of our time. His photography is deeply personal and rich, a reflection of the world as he sees it. It has been my pleasure to enter once again into that world for this Versace campaign. With this new campaign, Bruce gave me my history back.”
Teva-Han Kjobenhavn Sandal
The Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal has arrived, combining the almost contrasting philosophies of the two brands - the practical, everyday wear of Teva matching the runway aesthetics of the latter. The results are striking. Teva has already collaborated with the brand at Copenhagen Fashion Week for two seasons, and this creative partnership is flourishing. Mixing Teva’s outdoor look with a runway brand creates a unisex, distinctly Danish design. Han Kjobenhavn, wanting to maintain their trademark minimalism, has made the footwear monochrome, and are said to be inspired by the local football clubs of their youth - giving the shoes a nostalgic appeal. Available now in HK’s New York, Paris, Copenhagen and online stores, the Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal is a distinctive, breathable piece for summer.
Banky’s new exhibition in Rome
If you’re in Rome this summer you should definitely visit the Palazzo Cipolla Museum which launches one of the largest exhibitions of his work to date.
The non-profit exhibition War, Capitalism and Liberty kicked off on 24th May and it is running through to the 4thSeptember.
The exhibit, which sees the famous Kate Moss print take pride of place, spans the anonymous artist's entire career.
This exhibition includes around 120 original paintings, prints, unique sculptures, creations and rare pieces from private collections, many of which have never been seen publically before.
The exhibition examines war, consumerism and politics aiming to make you really think like Banksy . It promises to be a groundbreaking display of the different formats, techniques and topics tackled by him, demonstrating the sheer scale and scope of his work over the last 30 years.
The exhibition comes just a year after Banksy, opened the popular Dismaland in Weston-Super-Mare, the alternative seafront theme park that invited guests to experience attractions billed as "an escape from mindless escapism".
Dior “Rose des Vents” jewellery collection.
With his wind rose or better the ‘‘Rose de vent‘‘ jewellery collection Dior takes us a voyage to the four winds. Victoire de Castellane designs the ‘’Rose de vent’’ for Dior Joaillerie highlighting that passion for colour that unites the designer with the Dior House. Turquoise blue and lapis lazuli, pink opal and pearlized white are the colours that Dior has embellished the bracelets, the sautoires and the long and short necklaces expanding to include pendants and rings. The jewellery is presented in an onyx version and another covered in diamonds. The collection broadens the horizons of the medallion jewel. The whole collection brings in mind moments of summer and sea and this is not strange since the story began at Granville, in the villa where Christian Dior had spent his childhood, overlooking the sea, perched on a cliff-top. The collection combines the star and the rose which is Dior’s favourite flower.
AGL at König Gallery
Attilio Giusti Leombruni teamed with König Galerie and it seems that the Berlin got an Italian boost to its art and fashion events. The König Galerie and AGL hosted an exclusive Gallery Weekend opening dinner for their famous guests on Thursday night. Two hundred international well-known guests were gathered to the dinner and among them there were the publisher Angelika Taschen, Peter Bläuer, the director of "The Liste", the art collector and Media entrepreneur Christian Boros and the stage and costume designer Aino Labarenz. Jan Ole Joensson, the singer from B.O.X.E.R and the Peaches singers attended the dinner, too. Artists couldn’t be excluded from that fashion-art event and among the guests were the artists Michael Sailstorfer, Christian Jankowski, Jeremy Shaw, Claudia Comte and Kira Lillie.
AGL, which is run by the three sisters, Vera, Sara and Mariana is the only shoe company in Italy managed by women. AGL went online in Europe two years ago and is planning to launch online in the U.S. in 2017.
König Gallery showcases young and rising talents, as well as numerous well-established artists from a younger generation. The gallery focuses on cross-media, concept-oriented and spatial approach work.
Kaviar Gauche Launches Bridal Concept Store
Duesseldorf's Koenigsallee flaunts a whole lot of exquisite designer stores, but until March 17th, an exclusive bridal concept store was yet to be present. Berlin-based designer duo Kaviar Gauche, aka Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl, had their aim set on changing that. In a love-focused, bloomy ceremony, they launched their first Duesseldorf bridal concept store on the famous shopping mile in attendance of their elaborated clientele. Between champagne-colored walls and smoked-glass mirrors, guests such as modern art collector Julia Stoschek and director Oskar Roehler admired not only the bridal couture itself, but accessories and wedding essentials galore. The concept store is heaven-on-earth for a wedding planer, or at least the dream inspiration for a bride-to-be. Headpieces, shoes, bridesmaid dresses and registry outfits, even jewelry and candles – Kaviar Gauche makes sure there's nothing missing once you step up to the altar. All those pretty things are surrounded by tasteful design, centering around the steel tree-wardrobe designed by architect Amir Abadi. As a message on the wall puts it, on the Koenigsallee in Duesseldorf, you will not only find a wedding dress, but “everlasting love”. We do!
Versus Versace Fall 16
With its Fall/Winter 2016 collection, Versus Versace has unleashed a collection that is marked by toughness and an almost invincible spirit. Revisited camouflage prints, zip-up bombers, coats and cargo pants define the season for both men and women and embody the strong attitude that lies beneath this collection. For women, Versus plays with tomboy toughness by including loose fit jeans and flat ankle boots in the range. As camouflage is reimagined with the Versus lion head, the camo shirt meanwhile becomes the new city essential for the man. Both lines include pieces with a fierce attitude, such as a fur-collared blouson in menswear or a diamond slashed lingerie top for women. The urban conquest has been a sub-theme for a number of collections these past season and this collection sees Versus Versace join the trend wagon. Whether you need to fight the city jungle or just want to top off your fearlessness – Versus Versace is the gear to chose.
Breathe in some real alternative Berlin spirit. Get into 900m2 raw and industrial concept store LNFA which offers extraordinary shopping experience with a spice of exceptional style and mess. It presents carefully selected 90 young fashion designers from Germany, France, Italy, Turkey, Russia, Japan and Mexico. Combination of fashion, art, design, advertising, music and film industries brings the individual style to the aesthetics.
Among the bestsellers, daily inspiration comes from Studio Gampe, Siyah, Marcell Von Berlin, Thomas Hanisch, Preach, Esther Perbandt and Marcel Ostertag. Their creativity is implemented by Berlin streetstyle fashion and ever changing trends.
Get lost in a chaos and find yourself in the harmonious place which is the whole ever changing Berlin city collected into one location. Live through networking, fashion and arts.
LOEWE Fall/Winter 2016
Just like in their latest advertising campaign, earthy colors and monochrome looks dominated the LOEWE runway at their Fall/Winter 2016 presentation. The inexplicable, elusive mind that is Creative Director Jonathan Anderson always seems so put together a distinctive and strict aesthetic in which every garment is utterly different from the other, but in which everything blends perfectly like grains in the sand. At Paris Fashion Week, the Spanish label thus unveiled a collection of various flowing silhouettes, with dresses and skirts being the most prominent pieces. Paired with either asymmetric or body-tight tops and contrastingly oversized coats, they brought to life a modern look that speaks to women from Barcelona to Beijing equally. The cool, sophisticated combinations are interrupted by this season's go-to accessory: purses disguised as cat and mask-faces dangle around the models' neck, giving a funny twist on the tourist-style money bag usually very wisely banned from fashion. LOEWE though quite literally let the cat out of the bag, and the result will have the fans purr in pure bliss.
Fred Perry x Raf Simons SS16
For all those that wondered what Raf Simons might turn to after his Dior departure, Fred Perry has just delivered an exquisite answer. After rekindling their cooperation in 2013, the brand and Belgian designer have since featured more capsule collections, the latest one dressing the season of Spring/Summer 2016. Shot in a blurry aesthetic, the new campaign pictures show a sporty, contemporary collection that focuses on the look of stripes and v-lines. Perry's and Simons' collaborative work is a modernist approach to Striped Pique Shirts, Zip Front Chevron Pique Shirts, Insert T-shirts and Sweaters. Combining classic colors with flashing inserts, the collection is a mix and match of a modern attitude and yet another spin on the past. The wearer is seen a man in motion and stand out styles like wider cut Chevron Insert T-shirt adjust to that effortlessly. Go for the red-inserted pieces on a bright day or take the more classic route with beige-blue combinations. Not only the wearer seems to be on the move, but so is the designer. Raf Simons leaves the world in excitement for his next projects - and we've got the feeling that this one was just the start.
RIMOWA Bossa Nova
Most people would probably like to pack Alessandra Ambrosio into a suitcase and take her home with them. For now, those of you need to be satisfied with her advertising one. Ambrosio was revealed as the new face for German suitcase manufacturer RIMOWA’s. In the latest campaign, the Brazilian model poses with the brand’s new piece “Bossa Nova”. The name and choice of testimonial are not just coincidentally an allusion to Brazil: the travel accessory is actually manufactured there. For those seeking a little bit of Rio in their luggage, the Bossa Nova comes in a dark green with leather applications in green or beige, making it a style statement at the baggage claim. If only we all could step off a plane looking like Mrs. Ambrosio.
Diesel Black Gold Women F/W 16
Back in January, Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad started down the road to complete and utter urbanity. His menswear designs were an allusion to bike couriers, to the fast pace of the city and its mystery. Now, the womenswear line presents the perfect companion. The attitude is industrial, dark, nocturnal even. Melbostad creates a contrast between the raw and the decorative by juxtaposing various materials such as leather, denim, nylon and felt. Just like the menswear designs, this collection incorporates a dynamic feel to help the wearer blend perfectly into the urban space. Surely helpful in this was Melbostad’s utilitarian inspiration, among others visible in tall, lace-up biker and combat boots. The Black Gold collection is sharp, cool, but not minimalistic. Biker leather jackets and felt peacoats come with an unexpected inlay of quilted nylon blankets – a design that strikes in its surprising stylishness. The Diesel woman will be well equipped on her trip through the urban mystery, and we’re about to follow her. If we can keep up.
FENDI Fall/Winter 2016
When Fendi announced that at their F/W 2016 show, two life-size furry FENDIRUMI monsters would greet viewers, little did one know that their fluffy fur would actually transfer itself onto the clothing. The FENDIRUMI are the brand’s iconic bag charms that were introduced in two new versions alongside the collection at Milan Fashion Week. As mentioned, that particular collection also didn’t hold back on fur. The fluffy material is the main player in this season’s designs and used in the making of coats, vests and even handbags. For those who don’t ride on the fuzzy train, Fendi presented exquisitely tailored garments, often tight at the waist in an overall loose silhouette and adorned with ruffles at top or bottom. Next to striped patterns and dark-on-dark looks, baby blue is sprinkled through the collection like colour splatters on a painting. Ruffled boots, bags, yes, even the furry coats were designed in the iridescent colour, making the perfect match to the pink fur coat that was presented at Gucci’s show just one day earlier. The Italian’s know how to do it, and even two life-size monsters can’t distract us from it.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
They say all good things come in threes, and with Louis Vuitton, three seems to be the lucky number. Their latest Pre-Fall collection stands on three major pillars that are core to the Maison’s designs: neo-classic, elevated sportswear and the dream adventure. Beneath these summarizing definitions lays a collection that forms a complete wardrobe playing on androgyny and the fluidity of style. With Louis Vuitton, all things are fluid, such as the video shot by campaign photographer Karim Sadli, defined by energetic motion and movements. Such fluidity is supported by the actual designs that come across as confident monochrome looks. Color is not a theme in this collection, with only few sprinkled inserts highlighting shoulders or hips. Nevertheless, Vuitton plays with contrasts in tartan dresses, sporty legwear and a block-striped coat. According to the fashion house, this collection’s interpretation depends upon the point of view and personal prism of its wearer. And that’s the best thing about fashion: your wardrobe is your adventure. Welcome to Pre-Fall.
Mulberry F/W 16
She is a bright student, broody in her own melancholy, surrounded by heavenly pearl shimmer, a dark romantic at heart. Poetic words define the latest collection by British label Mulberry. This by no means is capriciousness, but lies in the inspiration of the brand's new creative director Johnny Coca. For his first Mulberry F/W creations, the designer was inspired by no other than William Shakespeare. It's his ability to capture every stream of society, from royalty to nobody that Coca admires and therefore translated into his new collection, along with inspiration from the contrast of London streets. The result is a clothing range defined by contradictions. Sharp tailoring meets pure femininity; soft pleats are fused with bold cuff details. Johnny Coca is testing his limits, but always holds onto the British soul. Majestic, big-collared capes go along soft tulle dresses and luxury knitwear. Details such as an overload of rings allude to royal influences, while on the other hand variously sized buttons suggest functionality. May the poetic inspirations to this collection be recited often, as for Mulberry, to be or not to be is out of question.
Replay Replica 1972 Scatto Collection
With their new shoe collection “Replica 1972 Scatto”, Replay is quite literally kicking it back. The label rediscovered the 1972 soccer shoe “Scatto” and chose to bring it back to 2016. Thus, Replay’s design team started to fuse the spirit of a handmade 70s piece of footwear with contemporary sneaker designs. The result is a collection consisting of four themes, two of them for men only, with various approaches to a hand-made classic. Replay restyled the “Scatto” with an eclectic range of materials. Ranging from suede leather in the eponymous line to lycra geo patterns featured on the heel in “Lycra 3D”, they make the collection go from sporty to stylish. We're glad Replay took on that workshop.
Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2016
When in New York, the Marc Jacobs models took to the runway, all the unscrupulous fashion crowd was left with was surprise. Few hours later, fashion critics found themselves in frenetic ecstasy about the new Jacbos designs, and there are plenty reasons why. It is hard to put this collection into words, as it was eclectic and layered – in both literal and fashion sense. Jacobs created the big show, defined by the big silhouette. Strutting on knee-high, laced boots, the models sported coats, blazers and capes in voluptuous egg shapes to be paired with impressively embellished dresses and loose sweaters. The materials one can’t even begin to enlist, for there are so many to choose from. Leather, denim, fur, feathers – Marc Jacobs has it all. The selection of models, who all presented a 1920s hair style, in parts was another surprise. One look was showcased by no other than Lady Gaga, who blended into the runway line-up quite effortlessly. For the grand finale, Jacobs later presented another enormous checkered cape, only to then bow to the applause as if nothing had happened. If only all surprises could be this magnificent.
CHANEL Opens on Königsallee in Düsseldorf
Get out your address books (pardon, smartphones) and switch to contacts: CHANEL has a new address! The Parisian brand changed its Düsseldorf location on the notorious shopping mile Königsallee to number 40. After having been located on the backside of an inner courtyard for years, CHANEL is now full front accessible to shoppers from allover the world. The new store opened its doors on February 10th and hosts 350 square meters of divine luxury goods. Customers enter the boutique via a gallery, where they are met by Andrei Molodkin's oil sculpture CHIC. Further on, an accessory room displays all smaller goods from handbags to sunglasses, scarves and jewelry. The watch collections of Mademoiselle Privé, J12 and Première find dedication in an additional section. Naturally, the clothes themselves deserve their own honoring: two intimate and comfortable Prêt-à-porter salons invite the shopper to prop down on a tweed sofa, lounge in a Wendell Castle chair or have a glance into the book on the Ingrid Donat table. New York architect Peter Marino was entrusted with the design of this particular boutique and incorporated the two CHANEL core characteristics: timeless modernity and Parisian refinement. Inspiration to the new rooms was Mademoiselle Chanel's famous apartment at Rue Cambon 31, where intimacy and elegance were united in every room. Safe to say that after such a precise reinvention process, Königsallee No. 40 is its equal in every way.
Peaches’ Free Drink Ticket
Peaches is heartbroken and it’s for everyone to see. The uninhibited singer has released the music video to her latest single “Free Drink Ticket”. The clip sees the songstress with a white-painted face and dressed in a leather-net-dress that, as often, exposes every inch of her body. While surrounded by similarly spare-dressed dancers, Peaches performs a kind of ceremony with a pig-headed snake that one can easily interpret as the person addressed in the song itself. “Free Drink Ticket” is a break-up anthem and probably the most honest and forward one to date. In her usual spoken-lyrics-style, the Canadian singer voices phrases like “you were shitting on me, how could I not smell it?” or “spineless coward, I can’t fucking stand liars”, adorned by the occasional thrown-in “fuck you”. The track was taken from Peaches’ 2015 LP “Rub” and is already the sixth release from the album. “Your personality turned to white powder, your brain’s clammed up chowder”, she says, “another free drink ticket, will that make it okay? Drink it up, bitch.” Cheers to you, Peaches.
Versace Shares Emoji App and T-Shirts
Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and so is the big fear: what am I going to do? If you’re one half of a happy couple but haven’t found the right gift just yet, Versace will stand beside you. Released on the day of love, the brand shares its #VersaceSharesLove project that centers around the 21st century expression of emotions: emojis. Versace has launched its own emoji app with which users can embellish their photos with a range of backgrounds, filters, text colors and – of course- emojis. Now, these are not just your regular go-to emojis, but ones that Versace had customized: they come stylized as the iconic Versace Medusa head. Along with the free app download comes the perfect gift. Versace launches a new line of T-Shirts, embellished once again with the special smiley head. So if on the 14th, you’re short for words in order to express your feelings, just send the hearty-eyed medusa. He or she will understand you, for sure.
Tommy Hilfiger Men’s F/W 16 “Hilfiger Edition”
If you’re a very classic brand, the ability to reinvent yourself over and over is key. Luckily, reinvention is the sub line in pretty much everything that Tommy Hilfiger does. It thus comes as no surprise that for his latest F/W 16 Menswear collection, titled “Hilfiger Edition”, the designer again tackled both heritage and haute style. At New York Men’s Fashion Week, Hilfiger presented a collective of indispensable menswear classics that once more embody the brand DNA. Covetable coats and thickly cabled fishermen sweaters make for warming outerwear, whereas slouchy trousers and selvedge denim create a relaxed look that is supported by the easy silhouette. Another part of Hilfiger’s reinvention is also taking the promotion of this collection to the next level. Managed by instagram curator Jordan Watson, Hilfiger collaborated with fine artist Austyn Weiner. Using her explosive color palette, she reimagined three original works that feature the Hilfiger Edition collection. Tommy Hilfiger always makes an effort to reinvent – and the victory is his.
KENZO's Captivating Snowbird
A lady, hopping from door to door, offering cake, eating with the old and lonely. You may think of scouts or desperate housewives, but you couldn't be more wrong. The lady actually knocking on every door in reach is the protagonist of KENZO's new SS16 movie “Snowbird”. Written and shot by director Sean Baker, the movie follows a (then) young woman on her way through a desert only populated by free-minded individuals living in trailers. As she eats a piece of the cake she baked with each of them, the young woman's story seems to unfold, only to switch to an unexpected ending. (Sounds teasing? Watch above.) While watching the 12-minute video, one almost is oblivious to the fact that this is a fashion campaign and probably surprised that it was shot entirely on iPhone. Additionally, the protagonist is nt played by a model, but Australian actress Abbey Lee. In Slab City, the rural oasis the movie was filmed in, she is joined by real inhabitants and actors who have been known for their myriad indelible endeavors in the film industry. The clothes may even be in the second row in this artistic film piece, but we sure still ask us how to get that girl knock on our door.
Keta Gutmane S/S 16
Hello from the outside: for Keta Gutmane, their latest SS16 collection is all about observation. Observation for the label creates a dialogue and builds a bridge between those who belong and those who were once lost. At Keta Gutmane, the outsider is never forgotten. For the new garments, the designers took loose inspiration from one of the greatest observers of all time: filmmaker Wim Wenders. Adapted to fashion, this inspiration translates into a combination of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary tailoring. To break it down even more: long oversized coats float along with sharply tailored poplin shirting. Fitted slim pants are teamed up with confident woolen blazers, whereas graphic trenchs are paired with coated cupro skirting. To not confuse the aesthetic, the collection is maintained by deep black and white, only occasionally interrupted by an expressive dash of checkered tartan. In conclusion, the collection forms are casually tailored silhouette that leaves the perfect room for observation. May it be from the inside, or the outside is of no importance. As Keta Gutmane said, we're always in a dialogue.
Balmain Pre-Fall 2016
If in 2016, a queen would have to hire a dressmaker, she would probably call up Olivier Rousteing. And after the reveal of his latest Pre-Fall collection, there is no doubt that the French designer would definitely be up for it. After all, his inspiration came from a time when there actually were queens with tailors belonging to the establishment. With the new designs, Olivier Rousteing takes us to the court of Versailles in the 18th century and into the boudouir of the legendary Madame Pompadour. Her sensual and elegant styles were a major influence to Rousteing, for in this collection, her signature silhouette finds itself in various riffs on the corset. Versailles opulence finds reflection in the luxurious fabrics like a variety of cashmeres, Jacquards, silks and paisleys. Madame Pompadour was known as a lover of details, so the tailor delivers beaded fringes, hanging tassels, thick ruffles and bold gold accents. Still, it's not just a history lesson Rousteing teaches us. Balmain is made for the modern woman, the confident fighter who is inspired by the bravery of the likes of Madame Pompadour. If we'll meet her, we'll curtsy. It seems the only right thing to do.
CHANEL Couture Spring/Summer 2016
One could say that haute couture in its traditional realm is nothing to be worn while on a walk. As often, Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t think so. For CHANEL, he created a collection that illustrates a walk in the park, a stroll in style while the spring sun shines upon your head. It is with an atmosphere of calmness and serenity that the models take their steps down the catwalk, outside the coulisse of a large wooden house. They present elegant garments defined by natural colors. Several beige tones, according to Lagerfeld, refer to Gabrielle Chanel being the “Queen of beige” while natural dark colors like black and dark blue are sprinkled throughout the collection. Lagerfeld found the starting point for these designs in the silhouette, playing with inverted volumes by creating short tweed jackets with oval sleeves, paired with sleek pencil skirts. Of course, CHANEL’s stroll trough the park shouldn’t be too wild, as materials such as chiffon or rhinestone-embroidered fabrics could be too easily damaged. But then again, keeping the contenance is CHANEL’s specialty, isn’t it?
Augustin Teboul F/W 16/17
Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul combine glamour and rock’n’roll in their collection like no other. The most astonishing design choice for FW 16/17 was hands down color. Both ladies are renowned for their femme fatale aesthetic circling 50 shades of black. This season, popping 80s hues made a guest appearance in delicate mesh structures and beading, from barely there tights to bodices, adding a glam rock touch in deconstructed knits and graphic structures to the all-black core of the collection. As a result, the Augustin Teboul woman becomes the naughty lovechild of Olivia Newton-John and Molly Ringwald. Delicate wovens mixed with luxe wool and leather pack some punch and cater to elegance and laissez-faire. Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul always keep their eyes on their woman: an enigma wrapped in a riddle, teasing the beholder with lots of skin before pulling away, covering in long layers of darkness.
Estonian label Whitetail is renowned as one of the key players in sustainable fashion and ethical production. Designer Margit Peura stuck to her minimalist cuts, enhancing each design with a golden headpiece. A distortion of the viewer’s perspective was the result, putting the clothes rather than the individual behind them in focus. For FW 16/17 Whitetail worked with a range of materials and textures: knitted sweaters and dresses stand next to see-through chiffon blouses, heavy woolen coats and delicate woven skirts. Eclectic prints, appliques, buttons and ruffled hems add a playful twist to the collection. Bright colors transformed last season’s muted Whitetail aesthetic. This time around bold red, royal blue, light grey, khaki and salmon liven up glum winters skies.
McQ's Goes Clubbing With Nan Goldin
Strobe lights blur the sight; distant beats make the heart hammer. People are rushing through the crowd; the occasional flash of a camera interrupts the lights. The scene at McQ's new SS16 campaign sees legendary photographer Nan Goldin on the hunt. She follows models through the location at McQ's own McQ x WARP night, creating pictures that speak her unique language while also submitting a very realistic and “close” atmosphere. Shot in other parts on location in Spitalfields, London, the campaign does not only emphasize Goldin's style of work but also empowers the brand image of McQ as a rebellious, youthful, but highly contemporary brand. All of that -come to think of it - in “just” a few pictures. We feel like we’re coming along. With Nan Goldin tracking our every move. We’re in!
MP Massimo Piombo Fall/Winter 16/17
Blue is the great clarifier, blue makes all the other colors beautiful. MP Massimo Piombo has fallen in love. Blue is the “grande amore” in their latest Fall/Winter 16 collection. While the classic color is in favor, the label also experiments with, well, pretty much everything. For Piombo, there are no limits in their dynamic designs. The ideas are realized with fabrics from Nothern Europe (Scandinavia) and Old Europe (Austria, France, Belgium). The objective is to merge together allure and functionality, to create a concept of sensation and emotions free from restriction and prejudice. The result comes in form of a literal world of coats, jackets and knits that follow the brand’s values of refinement, vitality, variety, dignity and – eroticism. There are no limits to experiments, and for Massimo Piombo, we wouldn’t ever want there to be.
Kiton Menswear Fall 16/17
They say you can’t do everything at once, but Kiton sure can. With their latest F/W menswear collection, the label crossed off every possible category one could feature in a collection: sartorial, thermal, denim, sportswear and accessories. Each subline has it’s own revolutions – and together, they form a wholesome collection. The tailoring’s masterpiece is a three-piece suit with vest highlight. A jacket gets a new outline with exclusive blends of cashmere borrowed from knitwear. Special attention is drawn to pants, which the label offers in a rich selection of cotton corduroy. Thermal wears brings on the CUTLO project and presents three jackets, overcoats and sports jacket that ensure a perfect balance between detail and performance. Kiton dubs it “the first sartorial thermal outerwear”. Denim comes in organic cotton with up to eight processes of washing. Sportswear and accessories are equally as diverse, with a sportswear capsule collection devoted to skiing and accessories ranging from backpacks and duffels to crocodile leather shoes. They say you can’t satisfy everyone, but Kiton sure can.
Versace Opens Doors in Berlin
January 19th, 2016 saw a crowd of 400 sophisticated guests make their way to one Berlin address: the Kurfürstendamm, number 194. Here, Italian luxury brand Versace opened the doors of their new 350 square metre boutique with a special cocktail celebration. Among the crowd were several famous faces from the German culture scene, ranging from Iris Berben’s son Oliver to fashion darlings such as model Franziska Knuppe. The store itself beholds the label’s latest Ready-to-wear collections as well as accessories. Donatella Versace herself developed the store concept in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert. Customers will have the privilege to walk on mosaic floors, inspired by Byzantine churches of the Ninth Century, and surrounded by Perspex walls. As Donatella Versace puts it: “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight. For me the boutique suggests an uninterrupted dialogue between our past and our future, between me and Jamie Fobert and obviously between Versace and our clients”. We’re off to Berlin!
Raf Simons Reveals: Spring/Summer 16 Ad
When Raf Simons closed a door, another one finally swung wide open. It's an odd saying – but it's true. After having left Dior in what was an unintentional kick-off to several changes in the fashion industry, Simons turned his back on French fashion houses and focused on his own line. And it's not just one door that has opened for him, in fact, it seems like Simons is standing in a metaphorical corridor, with multiple doors open to his side. Almost parallel to the presentation of his F/W 16 looks at Paris Men's Fashion Week, the designer revealed his advertising campaign for the Spring/Summer season. The visuals, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, consist of 8 pictures, most of them black and white, and illustrate a daunting scene in an abandoned park setting. One of the models is obscured by a full facial mask but not afraid to express their affection towards the counterpart. The looks feature repeated prints, expanded silhouettes and sleeveless tops. The time to be wearing them might actually be quite a bit away - but who knows which door Raf Simons will have opened by then.
Y/Project’s Eclectic Darkness
Industrial techno and cold wave sounds bounce through the Le Gibus in Paris. Backstage, models get in line, rearrange their look and get ready for entering the void. It’s time for Y/Project’s F/W collection. The French label presented their latest designs at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in a rather gloomy but fascinating setting. Through the darkness, models walked dressed in an eclectic mix of industrial, medieval and classic French styles. For his 5th collection with Y/Project, head designer Glenn Martens found inspiration in films like the The Lost Boys or My Own Private Idaho. His creative process was a transformation of these inspirations into the key pieces that were presented on the Paris runway: washed and frayed denim pullovers and trousers, multi-zip bombers and shearling patchwork jackets. Harris tweed trench coats meet bustier dresses, snake-skin print hoodies and pants converge with oiled cotton bondage jackets. Such an eclectic mix provides wardrobe choices for an even broader audience. Just don’t get lost in the darkness.
Bally's Private Party: FW 2016 Menswear
When was the last time you attended a really good party? Like, actually, a really good one? Mesmerizing guests, good music and just the right amount of elusive small talk. Been some time, hasn't it? Well, Bally is about to invite you to the best party in a long time. Titled “A Checkered Past- Scene 1”, the brand released the menswear Fall/Winter collection along with the story of an edgy-but-glamorous ballroom party. The crowd: artists, rock stars, aristocrats and geeks – eventually everyone you wished for. Photographers lounge next to artists and talk about California, while a rock'n' roll frontman reminisces about his last tour. All of these very inspirational people have found their place in Bally's new collection. If the allover print shirt with kiss-inviting lips paired with some green fur coat isn't yelling for a rock star, then what is? If it's not the velvet suits and slouchy fedora hats that walk into the artist's wardrobe, then what is? If it's not the shiny, double-breasted coat and glasses that make for a good geek, please let us know, then what is? 2016 is not that old, but Bally has already hosted the party of the year and somehow, just very quietly, has become every one of their guests. Cheers!
Diesel Black Gold F/W 2016
Diesel Black Gold has a special delivery for you! Inspired by urban bike messengers, the label presented its menswear Fall/Winter collection at Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week. Creative Director Andreas Melbostad and his team thought of couriers riding their bikes through urban capitals while designing the garments that create a rebellious attitude in an industrial setting. References to functionality are obvious, with cycling pants and “double trousers” (shorts stitched to narrow-cut styles) making it easy to move through the city, even if you’re not delivering a package. Set against that, capes, parkas and field jackets with voluminous silhouettes submit the “fashion” element in this collection. Regarding accessories, the bike messenger is present again: cross-body bags and leather pouches for the arm keep the hands free – for whatever the urban setting has to hold for you. Leather combat boots top off the primarily dark collection in style. Well, seems like tomorrow, we’ll be taking the bike to work. If it’s that stylish?
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2016 Runway Show
Like pulling a fan from the purse, last weekend, Milan pulled out its best, notable designers and brands to feature their latest menswear F/W 16 collections. One piece of that multifaceted fan was Calvin Klein Collection. The label’s Creative Director Italo Zuccheli presented his collection, featuring 42 looks shown by seven male and four female models, at the company’s headquarter. The gender-crossing casting is set to underline the universal power of men’s tailoring, which was also highly visible in the new designs. Keeping it both classy and classic, the garments include core pieces fundamental to the brand’s identity and menswear essentials. The exquisite tailoring stands next to sumptuous textures and silhouettes. This collection’s eye catchers are a selection of dazzling outerwear pieces, displaying a range of gold, silver and rose gold. Other than that, Calvin Klein’s color palette stays rather neutral, with a selection of black, white, camel and ivy rounding up a collection that spins between eye catching and toned-down pieces. Of course, in the end, Calvin Klein finds a way to balance itself out. That’s the key to fashion, isn’t it? Felicitazione!
FENDI Women SS16 Ad Campaign
Flowers for a beautiful woman. Who wouldn’t wish for that? FENDI is here to help. But instead of placing a bunch of nice flowers on our doormat, the brand has spread them all over their latest designs, revealed in their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. Whether it’s fur, plexi, studded leather or graphic details – flowers are key at FENDI this year. The new campaign transfers a good breeze of spring, applied also to the clothing through pure eclecticism, layered luxury and the playful alternation of lengths, cuts and volumes. Natural hair and makeup make clear that this campaign is not an advertisement for little girls – but for the strong woman on the look for a fresh, cool wardrobe. For these visuals, Karl Lagerfeld took to the camera again and shot models Edie Campbell and Vanessa Moody surrounded by larger-than-life-sized flowers. “Edie and Vanessa are the girls of the moment, each with a different style representing the typical model of fashion of today and the woman I thought of for this collection is the one who can identify herself with these girls.", the designer commented. Other than flowers and models, one can also make out FENDI bags such as “Peekabo”, “3Jours” or “Micro Baguette” as the stars of the new campaign. And of course, they blossom in their most beautiful way, too. We sure wouldn’t mind one of those on our doormat.
PAULE KA Spring/Summer Advertising Campaign 16
For a grown-up, elegant and sophisticated woman, is there ever such a thing as a crush on clothes? We believe there is, and it comes in form of PAULE KA’s SS 16 advertising campaign. For the latest visuals, the brand collaborated with photographer Miles Aldridge to catch the spirit of both Pop Art and 50s French Riviera. Aldridge and Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, new Creative Director of PAULE KA, were inspired by the bold colors and cubist forms featured in the paintings of Richard Lindner, as well as the poetic portraits of Henri Matisse. Together, they have moulded this inspiration into a contemporary vision of Parisian elegance. French-Canadian model Anais Pouliot poses in the ‘couture-chic’ the brand is known for, embodying femininity and sophistication. Not only with the design has the brand gone on a trip down memory lane, but also with this campaign’s execution. Aldridge, being one of the few non-digital photographers left in his realm, releases a special edition of collectible Polaroids along with the campaign. Paris, Polaroids and Pop Art? We’re certain that grown-up, elegant women around the world will be crushing about this.
Behind The Scenes with VETEMENTS: SS16
Fashion shows and collections are a nice thing, no doubts detected. Sometimes though, it’s even more interesting to peek behind the curtain, to have a behind-the-scenes view at the new collections. Blooming label VETEMENTS has decided to enhance their latest SS16 collection with a book that gives us exactly that: an unfiltered look at the designs, a behind-the-scenes, a personal close-up. Shot exclusively by Pierre-Ange Carlotti, the book features modern photography that depicts models as they check their phones, hug or take their position for the presentation. The artworks additionally feature a handful of detail shots, with the VETEMENTS shoe design being the center of attention more than once. The book will be published by London publishing house “Idea”, according to whom it is the largest photography book ever dedicated to a single fashion collection. 304 pages thick, it will be available at the Comme des Garçons Trading Museum in Paris from January, 23 onward. After that, stocks will go to Idea’s Dover Street Market locations in London, New York and Ginza, Tokyo. Ever wanted to be behind the scenes at a fashion show without having to leave your seat? Flip open the book and be ready to dive in.
Photos: Pierre-Ange Carlotti for Idea
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2016 Collection
On the inside, we're different. Everyone hides dreams, belief or fears that they can't share with the world. It is a form of protection. With his latest Fall/Winter menswear collection, Craig Green takes care of exactly that. His latest designs characterize a gathering of introspective dreamers. The collection is also defined by the contrasting themes of restriction and release, for which Green has shown a continuous interest. As often, this also includes a contrast of both elegant and uncompromising. Green further investigates his love for uniform and the utilitarian, which can be seen in moss green looks and or striped combinations with both army and jail elements. With this collection, the designer also turns to long-lasting materials. A gentler quality is offered through careful aging and tarnishing techniques, providing the feel of long-serving garments. Memories are made, with clothes as both a shelter and armour. On the inside, we might be different, but with Craig Green on the outside, we are protected.
SIBLING FW Men 2016
SIBLING succumbs to obsession. With their latest AW16 collection, the designers dedicated their work to the Pop culture of the 1970s and 1980s. More precisely, two icons that have subverted in the worlds of music and art like few others: Grace Jones and Jean Michel Basquiat. Eccentric in every way, Jones’ album covers inspire the collection’s color palette. Acid yellow and blood red shoot through traditional colors like royal blue and grey, making the viewer squint in a good way. Now, it doesn’t just take the color palette to make an honest dedication - which is why for the silhouettes, the label refers to Basquiat. Luxurious Dormeuil fabric jackets, baggy pleated trousers and cropped wide suit jackets emphasize the loose shapes Basquiat is known for. Of course, his artwork is not to be left out and finds dedication in the SIBLING Fair Isle sweater. Going back to Jones, the Boxing Shorts make an allusion to her combat image. Completed with a more feminine, glittering Boxing Gown, the man is not only ready to rumble but also to revel. Now, if all of this is the result of an obsession, we might just get infected, too.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016
This year, acting and fashion seem to go together better than ever. While Prada has appointed three young actors as their new testimonials, sister brand Miu Miu also once again enlists upcoming actresses as their new campaign faces. For the Spring/Summer 2016 campaign, international screen newcomers Millie Brady, Julia Garner, Matilda Lutz and India Salvor Menuez pose as the new Miu Miu woman. The visuals have a straightforward, uncoded message and were shot by no other than the brand's long-time creative partner Steven Meisel. The collection itself features a diversity of colors and materials. Greys and taupes intercut with maroon, gold and blue while materials like tweed, satin and leather are also used simultaneously. It is with no difficulty that one can sketch an image of this new Miu Miu woman: the risk-taker, the iconoclast, creatively intelligent with a rebellious sense of fashion. Looking to define that in one word? We'd say impeccable.
Neutral Party: Richert Beil FW15
Gender neutrality is the design world’s (current) darling. Labels little and large are trying their hand at unisex apparel, but that doesn’t mean they’re any good at it. So often it’s an indiscriminate approach they take, meeting the needs of many but flattering no one. But men and women are approaching a mid-point from two very different starting points; the solution cannot be one-size-fits-all. No, it takes a skilled eye and strident instinct to tailor a collection to both sexes with success – that’s where Richert Beil comes in. The brainchild of Berlin-based designers Jale Richert and Michele Beil, the label lauds an erudite aesthetic irrespective of gender, sympathetic to the structural, social, and emotional subtleties that have so far mantled man and woman. Ankle-grazing slacks prove a universal staple – smart with a sexy sensibility. Knits take neutral but directional dimensions, sweaters understated in their elaboration, chunky tabards tossed over stitched skirts. Longline macs layer their enduring appeal over culottes, kilts, and tunics, while coltish calves are slicked by black stockings and bolstered with sturdy leather lace-ups. Now there’s a style to suit all.
JIL SANDER Spring/Summer 16 Advertising Campaign
Naturalness and simplicity have forever been trademarks of German brand JIL SANDER’s collections. Now, the new visuals for the Spring/Summer 2016 campaign were revealed – and they make clear that the fashion label once again sticks to its status quo. Shot by Willy Vanderperre in Paris, the campaign shows models Lexi Boling and Jonas Gloeer presenting a collection defined by purity. Womenswear designs allude to one of this year’s key colours, an almost pastel blue that is used in the design of wrap dresses, shirt blouses and handbags. Other than that, the collection stays rather un-summery, featuring dark colors like a deep blue in a classic menswear coat or even black. If now the thought of “boredom” creeps into your mind, JIL SANDER is ready to talk back: especially the new women’s designs surprise with shoulder cut-outs and restyled coat collars. They might stick to their status quo, but JIL SANDER does it just right. Never change a winning team, people say. We agree.
Este Arte – International Contemporary Art Fair
Kicking off on January 5th, Punta del Este in Uruguay will once again host the “Este Arte” Fair, an international event dedicated to both historical avant-gardes and contemporary artists. Following the success of the fair’s last edition, it will once again feature a varied palette of events and exhibitions. Art lovers will find nearly any form of art displayed, ranging from paintings and sculptures to photographs and videos. In addition, Este Arte will present a cultural agenda that enables a dialogue among artists, collectors, critics and curators. Set to run every year, the event was installed to be a cultural landmark in the South American art system and to empower both institutional and private collections. The fair opens it’s doors with a VIP preview on January 5th and will be open to the public from 6pm to 11pm on the remaining days. Well, why not start the new year with a trip to Uruguay?
Marc O'Polo Spring/Summer 2016
While now actually might be the time to think of festive dinners, gifts and winter walks, the fashion world is already one step ahead. Within these days, the new Spring/Summer campaigns are being revealed, and casual brand Marco O'Polo is the next to present their latest coup. The team has decided to continue their path of featuring well known testimonials in their cozy-and-cool garments. Follow-up to the likes of Uma Thurman and Jeff Bridges are Hollywood darlings Josh Hartnett and Dree Hemingway. The two actors pose for the womenswear line “Natural High” and menswear line “Natural Explorer” in the new SS16 campaign. The expression “natural” once again is key to the concept of Marc O'Polo. For these particular visuals, the brand has teamed up with photography icon Bruce Weber. To have naturalness even inspire the photo sessions, the campaign was shot in Weber's house in Montauk, New York. Being both a hideaway place and weekend escape, the house immediately drew in the campaign testimonials. The result are photos that capture the collection in its most pure way: casual, not complicated, sophisticated. After almost 50 years of brand history, Marc O'Polo once again lives up to its own concept: stay true to yourself, no matter what you do.
PHOENIX Restaurant Opens in Dusseldorf
Three architectural “slices” of post-war modernism have defined the skyline of Rhine capital Dusseldorf, Germany, for decades. The Dreischeibenhaus on the riverside is a classic. Now, it is set to also define the city’s culinary image. Dec 15th saw the opening of new restaurant “PHOENIX” in the building’s former telephone switchboard. The restaurant provides seating for 70 guests and another 30 in a private dining area. High-class cuisine is served in form of modern classics combined with seasonal dishes that ask to be tasted with a bottle from an international wine selection. Guests can enjoy the culinary extravaganza surrounded by a tasteful interior: materials, forms and colors from the historic building have been taken on and mount in a fresh design defined by the key color petrol blue. The combination of walnut wood and steel elements creates the perfect atmosphere for a relaxed lunch or dinner. Need a little more entertainment? The show kitchen area gives guests an insight into the making of their delicacies. Guten Appetit!
PHOENIX is open Tue-Sun nights and at lunchtime from January on.
Ermenegildo Zegna Presents SS16 Advertising Campaign
What does masculine identity stand for these days? It’s 2015 – well, 2016 almost – and the masculine identity has once again shifted in the past year. Is it more fragile than ever – or have we finally settled into a state of relaxation? Italian heritage brand Ermenegildo Zegna has the answer – their latest Spring/Summer 2016 advertising campaign. The key lies in blending. Zegna forms a new, global aesthetic with a fusion of “new” and “old”. While still revolving in an overall angle around their heritage and DNA, relaxation is an addition to the brand’s values. This is why the campaign, shot by Inez & Vinoodh, features a row of self-aware, relaxed men posing in front of a simple, white background. Ermenegildo Zegna presents the new man: stylish, masculine – but contemporary. Main act of this set-up is actor and filmmaker Benn Northover – known for his role in the last two parts of Harry Potter as well as for his huge commitment to the independent film scene. For the Couture collection, the brand also settles into a lighter, more transparent atmosphere. Shades of “non-whites” are framed by optical whites and all-black looks. Next to the world of classic tailoring, the brand even sprinkles in a bit of colorful, informal attitude disguised as a relaxed take on the daily act of dressing up. Ladies and gentleman, get ready for 2016 – and the new Zegna man.
Coach Pre-Fall 2016
To find the middle way in life is always a tough choice. Think about your place of residence. What’s more to like, the country retreat or the fancy penthouse downtown? Don’t dismay, American brand Coach helps us ease the way between prairie and Park Avenue with their Pre-Fall collection 2016. Inspired by the great American landscapes, the collection dips into earthy colors and strong materials without losing the modern East cost vision of femininity. To make the collection more complex, the playful prairie-goth attitude is interrupted by sporty references to varsity and basketball – American legacy at its best. Furry boots also are a must, combined with traditional fur-lined leather jackets or cowgirl-inspired dresses. Too cold for fall? Throw on the furry, patched stole and you’re ready to go. Destination: city or countryside? You decide.
Fred Perry: Annual Traditions
With Christmas approaching faster each day, fashion brand Fred Perry takes a trip down memory lane to focus on what is most present this time of the year: annual traditions. Be it personal rituals, lists, journeys, even those late nights spent reminiscing – traditions are a vast field to explore. In support of their Annual Traditions campaign, this year’s festive season sees Fred Perry celebrate traditions with a short film narrated by English actress Vicky McClure. Focusing on social media, Annual Traditions invites fans of Fred Perry to post their own festive traditions adorned with the hashtag #AnnualTraditions. The campaign will also feature curated imagery all around traditions – which unmistakably are also a huge part of Fred Perry clothing. Nevertheless, celebrating rituals and routines does not only mean looking back: the brand’s slogan captures our traditions in their most true form: always different, always the same.
Berlin Art Film Festival
LA MORTE DI PASOLINI
Returning this year is the Berlin Art Film Festival, with 20 more films than last year. Without any official sponsor, “From poetry to porn to politics” incorporates the current crisis affecting Europe, whilst also commemorating those who have passed away this year and the on-going gentrification of Berlin today. Among those that will be shown are the likes of Telémachos Alexiou’s “La Morte di Pasolini” and Peter Kern’s “Sarah & Sarah”. Accompanying the film programmes will be parties, discussions, exhibitions and small installations to get involved with and as this festival runs on ticket sales alone, don’t hesitate to check it out!
The Berlin Art Film Festival occurs between December 10 to December 13, 2015.
SARAH & SARAH
THE RASPBERRY REICH
A LOW LIFE MYTHOLOGY
“Once and Forever”
Next week on December 1, Karl Lagerfeld will be revealing the CHANEL Métiers d’art collection in Rome’s legendary film studio complex, Cinecittà. As a prelude to the showing of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 collection, Lagerfeld will present his latest short film, “Once and forever”. With the aim to portray Gabrielle Chanel “through all stages of her life and the comeback in the 1950s”, current CHANEL muse, and face of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’art collection’s advertising campaign, Kristen Stewart will be embodying the label’s legendary founder alongside Geraldine Chaplin. The film itself takes place behind the scenes of costume tests and script meetings to tell the story of a lively film production with the aid of Jérémie Elkaïm, François Marthouret, Amanda Harlech, Jamie Bochert, Jake Davies, Baptiste Giabiconi and Laura Brown.
FENDI Reopens Rome’s Palazzo FENDI
This December FENDI are unveiling their completely refurbished Palazzo FENDI near Rome’s Spanish Steps. The five-storey building houses FENDI’s first boutique hotel alongside the Salon Privé, which is a luxurious apartment exclusively for VIP customers, and designed by the infamous Dimore Studio. Their largest flagship store accompanies the private residences after FENDI recently established their new headquarters in Palazzo della Civiltà in Rome’s EUR district.
Dries Van Noten Designs Costumes for Dance-Chamber Opera, Hagoromo
For his second design collaboration with contemporary dance since he teamed up with Teresa De Keersmaeker for her work “Rain”, Dries Van Noten is behind the authentic costumes of David Michalek’s reinterpretation of Hagoromo. A piece of traditional Japanese Noh theatre, this multidisciplinary show reunites Wendy Whelan and Jock Soto, both former principle dancers of New York City Ballet, to retell the tale of a fateful meeting between a poor fisherman and a fallen angel. The Belgian fashion designer draws inspiration from traditional Japanese costume design as well as typical kimono colour combinations to create a beautiful feather printed look for Whelan and a fish printed costume for Soto. Van Noten allocates minimalistic outfits to the other performers in the show, complimenting the simplistic set design of Michalek’s Hagoromo.
The world premier of Hagoromo is held at the Brooklyn Academy of Music Harvey Theatre between November 3 and November 8, 2015.
Good Gils Gone Bad
With Steven Meisel behind the camera, Prada unveil their Resort 2016 advertising campaign. Informal portraits of Lexi Boling, Meghan Collison, Ina Jensen, Lineisy Montero, Julia Nobis and Greta Varlese show the muses in front of a minimal, industrial backdrop, accentuating their “bad girl” edge with their intense gazes and cool body language.
The clothes themselves echo post-pop art with decorative oversized earrings, printed multi-coloured bags and layered leather shifts, clingy printed sweaters and striped sleeves. High impact pieces are based on the simple T-shirt with soft silhouettes in an exploration of post-modesty and luxury…the Prada woman should expect the unexpected if planning to fall down this rabbit hole.
Christian Dior Couture comes to London
Taking a piece of Paris to the doorstep of Londoners, Dior has opened a brand new pop-up store on Mayfair’s Mount Street. In an old Victorian building, just steps away from Hyde Park, lies Dior’s temporary address. Surrounded by its contemporary interior, customers can find Raf Simons’ FW15 collections for the label, including women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and leather goods.
The loft-like space is occupied with pieces by renowned interior designers, such as a Vladamir Kagan sofa, a Nuage table by Guy De Rougemont and Miroirs Gouttes by Hubert Le Gall. Christian Dior’s favourite color takes centre stage with a magnificent pink dressing room in the middle of the store.
Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-‘015
Debuting during the Tortona Design Week 2015 in Milan, Stone Island are bringing a retrospective exhibition of their innovative explorations into light refraction to New York. “Reflective Research ‘992-‘015” recounts the various textile manipulations that Carlo Rivetti’s label have experimented with since 1992, during an extensive study of safety workwear clothing. This involves an approach of using resins consisting of thousands of glass microspheres in coating textiles – meaning that when these fabrics hit the light in a dark setting, they completely light up.
The nostalgic exhibition includes a number of experimental processing techniques adopted by the brand on finished textiles and numerous items that never made it to production. The Stone Island Fall/Winter 2015/16 Collection will accompany it in a special presentation. Impressive.
“Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-'015’” is on exhibition at 41 Greene St, New York, until November 15, 2015.
An enchanting exhibition, “Mademoiselle Privé” depicts the charm and creativity of the captivating Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld. Hosted at London’s Saatchi Gallery, the exhibition begins outdoors, in a beautiful English garden, designed by Harry and David Rich. A tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel, the contemporary garden is split into three sections: “Liberty”, “Boy Capel” and “Leo”…these symbolizing her free spirit, the love of her life and a symbol of her strength and astrological star sign.
Visitors are then invited to explore the very heart of CHANEL in an exhibition commemorating the things and places most dear to Gabrielle Chanel, with an emphasis on her and Karl Lagerfeld’s most inspired haute couture creations. Eighty three years after it was rejected by Britain’s Custom regulations, the 1932 “Bjoux de Diamants” Collection exhibits alongside CHANEL N°5.
The final chapter to this remarkable journey realizes itself as an 18th century garden, “Jardin à la Française”, inspired by the stained glass windows of the orphanage in which Gabrielle Chanel grew up and learnt the seamtress trade…This being the original home to the iconic, interlocking Cs of CHANEL.
“Madmoiselle Privé” is held at London’s Saatchi Gallery until November 1, 2015.
Dior Homme Unveils New Parisian Store
Following their romanticized “Paris XVIE” campaign featuring Boyd Holbrook, Dior Homme have opened a brand new boutique for their menswear line at 24 Rue François 1er.
Across two floors, its beautiful interior design blends ideologies of modernism and elegance with tradition with pioneering innovation. Executed in a minimal palette of black leather and wood, Dior grey and white, the store provides a tranquil setting with impressive light reflective resin structures that bridge the gap between outside and in. Available in store will be all collections designed by Kris Van Assche as well as a space for custom orders.
The boutique even offers an exclusive made-to-measure, home-visit service by the label’s tailoring atelier…The Dior Homme’s shopping experience couldn’t get more enjoyable than this.
Bryan Adams: Exposed
Musician, photographer and founder of ZOO Magazine, Bryan Adams is nothing if not a multitasker. Self-taught, Adams’ photographic material has earned him several distinctions, including two of the German LeadAwards. Primarily focusing on fashion and portraits of celebrities, his work captures the energy and personality of each subject, who have included the likes of Amy Winehouse, Mick Jagger and even Queen Elizabeth II (which, for any collectors out there, actually made it’s way onto Canadian stamps).
His first book of photos entitled “Exposed” is now celebrated in exhibition form, welcoming visitors to see first hand his most remarkable images, in a comprehensive retrospect. The exhibition will run until November 28, 2015, at the Young Gallery, Brussels.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Prada’s mischievous little sister has returned this season with a spring in her fabulously decorated step. Incredible zig zig patterned lace-up boots were executed in vivid hues whilst satin ballet pumps were a mish mash of hard and soft tones, adorned with harsh leather straps and delicate charms.
Solemn plaid checks and tweeds were layered under huge raccoon sashes and sheer shirts and frilled dresses. There were mismatched colors and patterns and jeweled feathered headbands carelessly slung around models necks…Miuccia Prada may have received a devastating loss in her personal life over the past few months, but the playful Miu Miu spirit was out in full force. Amazing.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Everyone loves a bad girl and since Hedi Slimane’s take over at Saint Laurent, the label’s sales have gone up and up. His daring “fur coat no knickers” approach in this collection has taken the otherwise ordinary and transformed it into the ultimate 90s grunge festival attire.
Constant reworks of this season’s favorite throwback, the slip, appears in sheer lace, silk and sequins under statement jackets with bulky wellies, whilst strappy sandals, blazers and hot pant shorts make the collection seem very Kate Moss-esque.
For his Parisian finale, Slimane shows that his Saint Laurent Bad Girl can do elegance as well – when they want to and on their terms.
Kenzo Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have transported us to the heart of the Meditteranean Summer with their latest line for Kenzo.
A decidedly young collection, it is packed with crop tops, bodysuits and mini skirts, not to mention their brilliantly reimagined 90s waist bags. Accessorizing with ornate jewelry and contemporary, gladiator-style thigh high boots, Lim and Leon elaborately mix occasions in each look whilst exploring bold tribal prints in vivid colours. The end effect is busy, but a cheerful one at that.
Vetements Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Now in their fourth season, Vetements are no longer the new kids on the block. This collective of young designers who are proving the power of friendship are now also winners of the LVMH Designer Prize. Their latest collection pushes the irrelevance of gender and depicts the ultimate expression of cool.
Making a return to the catwalk are their signature gigantically proportioned suits, this time with dramatic splits up trouser legs and appearing in striking blues and oranges. Jacquard sweaters, Star Wars wide-leg trousers and thigh high boots emblazoned with the Vetements name are taken together to reinforce alternative, youth culture within the context of Parisian fashion.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It is all about the sheen at Dries Van Noten this season. Embroidered platform wedge mules set off a busy display of prints, netting and colors. The eclectic collection took inspiration from the vintage 30s and 40s, and blended in beautifully tailored pieces with incredible wide-leg jeans.
A wings motif spread out over models’ chests, who, donning victory rolls in their hair and carrying clutches, sparked connotations of the glamour of Hollywood in the old days. A continuation of the designer’s vision from last season, the collection was all the more dramatic in being shown in an abandoned warehouse setting.
Damien Hirst Opens the Newport Street Gallery with John Hoyland's "Power Stations"
After three years in production and around £25 million of his own money, Damien Hirst will finally open the Newport Street Gallery in Lambeth, London. Spreading itself over five buildings along one street, the gallery was designed by Caruso St. John and includes the renovation of three Victorian listed buldings, which before the second world war also served as galleries.
Newport Street Gallery will house over 3,000 works from Hirst’s personal collection and includes the likes of Francis Bacon and Tracy Emin. Alongside already established artists will be works from the new generation of emerging artists and from indigenous artists of the Pacific Northwest Coast.
The opening exhibition, displayed in all of the five buildings, will be a retrospective collection of works from the iconic abstract painter, John Hoyland (1934-2011), who has not featured in a major solo exhibition for nearly ten years.
The Newport Street Galleries will open to the public on October 8, 2015, in London. John Hoyland’s “Power Stations” will exhibit here until 3 April, 2016.
Blugirl Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Blugirl has grown up this season, according to designer Anna Molinari. In a collection aimed to seduce, there are open shirt-dresses with ruffles, butterfly prints and asymmetric lines across the shoulder toying with femininity and sensuality. The palette is bold and bright with stripes breaking up block colours on beautifully soft fabrics such as crepe, taffeta and plumetis.
Charged with unpredictability are the diverse silhouettes and sharply contrasting lengths, in either baring the full leg and reaching the ankles. Overall, Molinari has achieved what she set out to with this current ready-to-wear in expressing a modern, playful femininity that will surely fly out of the shops.
Tod’s Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The inspiration behind Alessandra Facchinetti’s latest collection for Tod’s is the formation of a new girl band. Members include the likes of Langley Fox Hemingway, Elizabeth Jagger and Chelsea Tyler; all either walking the show or sat in front row.
With a rockabilly start the collection is all Gommino loafers, neck scarves and quiffs. Monochrome prints and cropped trousers with leather a key fabric in the entire collection. Slouchy jumpers and unbuttoned shirts accessorized with printed bags exude an air of cool nonchalance – key to any successful band.
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Tomas Maier has taken us on a grand excursion to the outdoors with his latest collection for Bottega Veneta.
Starting off with his favourite hobbies, a sailcloth has become his biggest source of inspiration for the current line, which is easily reconised in his ruffled maxi dresses, tassle rope details and A-Line coats.
A mix of camo and animal prints amongst flashes of red and neutral tones and a range of contemporary jackets make for an exciting collection with a definitively urban edge.
Costume National Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Inspired by a film noir comes the latest collection from Ennio Capasa. As expected, it entails a largely black pallet, with the incorporation of white and red.
Deconstructed blazers, ruffled skirts and cut out shoulders explore the various shapes Capasa entertains in this collection. Geometric patterns in lace and embroidery, glitter prints and even a metallic ruched dress showcase an anomaly for the designer, and an exploration into “sensuality”.
Never one to follow a trend, you cannot help but wonder whether the business of the shows of his contemporaries this past week in Milan have pushed him to venture out of his comfort zone this season.
Prada Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Vintage-inspired collections with an eccentric, Italian twist seems to have been a running trend this season at Milan. And who could do it better than Miuccia Prada I ask you. Her line is an army of skirt suits and coats brought to life in classic tweeds, checks or vivid striped leather and suede, alongside the occasional appearance of a translucent number.
Perhaps if another designer had done this you couldn’t help but get lost in repetition… But Prada knows how to play it. She showers each look with her signature style of peculiar accessories and whirls up excitement in her humble onlookers. This season, it’s a circle motif – think lace scarves, sequins and glitzy bauble earrings.
This exceptional collection is proving to be the highlight of the week at Milan and so for that, we salute you Prada. Oh, and for those incredible gold lips as well.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
As promised, Philipp Plein has delivered another rock-pop spectacle with his show at MFW. Studded boots, a robot-backed Courtney Love performance and Black Swan style tutus, it is Terminator meets eighties Rock God and conjures up memories of his SS16 menswear line.
Leather biker jackets, emblazoned with patchwork badges reading quotes like “GOD SAVE HIP ROCK”, are covered in his signature studs and teamed with slinky metallic dresses.
With technology being a key ingredient to this collection, models walking the catwalk as if on a conveyor belt… This was of course after a robot had accessorized them.
Thomas Tait Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
At a first glance, the label’s latest collection seems somewhat odd. Look again and you cannot miss the relentless repetition of a spherical cutout motif, giving the collection many facets.
At times it is tribal, at other times, with the incorporation of A-Line dresses and flares, it is reminiscent of the retro sixties and seventies. In manipulating it into a geometrical pattern on jackets, it seems inspired by industrial design.
His choice of positioning the “peephole” motif in almost every location on the clothes creates a sense of what Tait deems “awkward intimacy”. Put all of these different perspectives of influence together and you are left with one unstoppable force of contemporary design.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
“A Woman’s Odyssey” is what J.W. Anderson was apparently calling his show backstage. A jumble of periods there was oversized ruched shoulders from what could only be the Renaissance period, monochrome sixties squiggle prints, eighties bodycon dresses and some incredible nineties metallic square toe boots.
In adopting a fairly neutral palette, the creative collection was eye opening but not overly excessive – it worked. J.W. Anderson has successfully created yet another completely original line.
Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Open shirt-dresses peeling off model’s shoulders, undone fastenings and asymmetric hems overtly hint at the inspiration behind this season’s Proenza Schouler Collection.
Indeed, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough claimed it was “a peeling banana” that influenced the label’s luxurious ready-to-wear line. Makes sense doesn’t it? Already a clever collection, its combination of interesting shapes, textures and colors make it a beautiful one too. Mix in some ruffles, pom poms and feathers, and you are left with an ultra-feminine, contemporary line with a hint of Spanish influence.
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
The inspiration behind Jeremy Scott’s latest collection is blatantly obvious: 60s screen meets sci-fi. The designer fills his catwalk with a classic T.V. screen “squiggle” print on metallic fabrics amongst psychedelic monochrome patterns, alien green trapeze dresses and even a show-stopping conical bra to finish.
Indeed the ever-playful Scott has moved away from last season’s twee style and gravitated towards a cheekier look of fishnet tights, dangerously high hems and retro cartoon character prints…All made easier to digest by the collection’s simple shapes and silhouettes.
Hood By Air Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Another season at Hood By Air equals another season of Shayne Oliver doing whatever he wants. With deconstructed shirts, trousers, skirts, and just about everything else, Oliver consistently takes the mundane and transforms it into something extraordinary.
This school-uniform inspired collection sees the designer jump on the trend of gender blurring and showcases an equal number of male and female models wearing his interpretation of skirts and dresses on the runway. The bad boy of New York Fashion Week, Oliver revels in his Hood By Air revolution.
Paul Smith Presents “A Suit To Travel In”
Paul Smith has been making suits since the 70s. As the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 ad campaign proves, they know what they’re doing. The short film shows the British Olympic medalist Max Whitlock demonstrating the sheer flexibility of “A Suit To Travel In”, which is available for men and women. Without causing a single crease, Whitlock performs a sequence of impressive, dynamic gymnastic moves... If that can’t convince you then I don’t know what can.
Canali Launch Elegant Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Photographed by Van Mossevelde + N, a dapper Richard Biedul casually poses on iconic 50s style furniture wearing the collection that oozes a casual sophistication. In front of neon lights the current Canali campaign continues with a Milanese theme from their previous collection, celebrating the city in its buzzing 1950s era when contemporary ideas merged with classic tradition.
The Fall/Winter 2015 line of menswear is packed with geometric prints and intricate patterns upon luxurious yet unique fabrics. With the made-in-Italy high quality textures that the label is internationally renowned for, sleek designs realized in a minimal palette are kept exciting with flashes of “Canali” yellow, petrol blue and ivory.
The campaign will be shown globally on outdoor advertising, print media and online.
Xavier Dolan Realizes His Fashion Dreams with Louis Vuitton
Once hailed Quebec Cinema’s Boy Wonder, Xavier Dolan now celebrates being the face of Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Dolan shot to fame with his directorial debut, “J’ai tué ma mère” at the tender age of 20. His fifth feature film, “Mommy”, also gained him international recognition in winning last year’s Jury Prize at Cannes Film Festival.
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, Louis Vuitton’s showcases Ombré, the fashion label’s latest collection of leather goods. Dolan models two iconic bags from the range, the Keepall and the Porte-Documents Voyage Bandoulière. The actor/director/Paris-front-row-sitter, who has claimed it to have always been a childhood dream of his to front a luxury fashion brand, can now safely tick one off his bucket list.
Louis Vuitton’s newest campaign featuring Xavier Dolan hits magazines this October.
Moncler Announce Opening of New Boutique in Costa Mesa, California
Moncler unveil latest store in the exclusive Orange County’s South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa. This luxury shopping centre is regarded as one of California’s most significant. The one-story boutique welcomes you to lose yourself in the world of Moncler, stocking the label’s mens and womenswear collections beside a huge array of accessories.
With the marble floors, French wooden paneling and two large store windows, designed by the Gilles & Boissier architecture studio, this new boutique is worth the visit. If unfortunately you can’t make it all the way to California, the highly established Moncler can also be found all over the world in cities and ski resorts.
Mulberry Enlist Actor Freddie Fox to Help Unveil New Men’s Collection
Known for their iconic English image, it is perhaps then not surprising that Mulberry have sought the help of English actor Freddie Fox in unveiling their latest concept, their new season exclusive Multi-Tasker Holdalls in Dazzle Camouflage. Reworking the classic military camo-print into a novel geometric design, the contemporary pattern appears on the classic Mulberry clipper as well as two new Multi-tasker styles in grey and blue.
Based on versatility and functionality, the Multi-tasker range offers a holdall and backpack whose handles are cleverly designed to flatten against the bag when not in use. This innovative feature is perfect for the modern-day, urban man who cycles to work everyday. Proving this is Freddie Fox, who in Mulberry’s new campaign walks us through a day in his life in London whilst using his Multi-Tasker Holdall, which is in Dazzle Camouflage. Also available in the collection are a range of accessories, including wallets and scarves.
Boris Mikhailov is Awarded The Goslar Kaiserring 2015
The internationally renowned Boris Mikhailov is rewarded for his groundbreaking efforts in photography, in particular, documenting Soviet Society. Following the footsteps of other revolutionary modern artists, including Gerhard Richter and more recently Matthew Barney, the Ukrainian photographer will accept the prestigious Goslar Kaiserring later this year.
Without any prior training, Boris Mikhilov began to pursue photography whilst working in a factory as an engineer. Experimenting with various techniques, he played around with pictorial material. From primarily capturing his life and the ordinary people who surrounded him on film, he went on to use photography as a medium to make social comments about the regime governing Berlin and the area in which he lived.
These astounding images have gone on to win Boris Mikhailov global recognition. After exhibiting his work in the West from the late 80s, he has acquired numerous awards and his solo collections of works can be found in huge art institutions such as MOMA, New York, and the Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris.
Boris Mikhailov receives the Goslar Kaiserring 2015 on October 10.
We Want More: 21st Century Music Photography
Currently shown at the Photographer’s Gallery in London (17 July – 20 September), We Want More studies the changing dynamic between “image-making and music in the 21st century”.
Unlike previous times, both the photographer and musician are no longer constrained by briefs given by particular publications. Instead they are freer to realize their own creative visions in the resulting images.
Curator Diane Smythe displays a range of energetic images, from Ewen Spencer’s Ayia Napa ravers to Katy Perry impersonating royalty, as shot by Ryan Enn Hughes.
Pictured above is a still from Roger Ballens’ series of alternative South African group Die Antwoord, from their iconic “Fink U Freeky” music video, which also features in the exhibition. Notably, Die Antwoord actually sought out Ballen to direct this for them, as they believed that he specifically could understand the vision they wanted to create.www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk
Prada Journal. A Place For New Stories.
“Illuminations, shadows and mirages. Things are not always what they seem.” This year’s theme for the third edition of the Prada Feltrinelli Prize, Prada’s international literary contest dedicated to emerging writers was opened in Milan this past week. The Prada Journal collections of optical frames are the embodiment of Prada’s adventurous nature and its quest to explore the world through different lenses and perspectives – a just inspiration for the world of literary wonder. Launched in 2013, the Prada Feltrinelli Prize aims to establish and nurture an independent literary research platform open to writers from all corners of the world. The winners of the award will be awarded a cash prize and their stories published as an eBook in the Prada Journal digital anthology and in the Feltrinelli Zoom catalogue. The contest closes on August 31st. Send in your short story at… www.prada.com
Bottega Veneta opens its first boutique in Frankfurt
Located at Goetheplatz 5 in ONE Goethe Plaza, the Bottega Veneta fashion house is pleased to announce the expansion of its brand in Germany with the opening of its first Frankfurt-based boutique. The renewed urban space covers a total of 235 square meters, which includes two floors offering an extensive selection of Bottega Veneta products including ready-to-wear for men and women, handbags, accessories, perfume
Valentino Couture Fall 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The stunning Valentino collection echoes the Roman Empire that inspired it – a vision of power and excellence, bar none. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have bolstered the Valentino brand with their continual celebration of the house’s Italian heritage, and the Roman goddesses that traversed through the venue this week inspired a worthy standing ovation. From the iconic eagle motif to the immaculately combined color scheme… and those capes! it was truly a spectacle of a collection. The braided hair, simple makeup and subdued gold accessories cemented the image of a modern-day Empress brought to life.
The ‘sheer dress’ trend that might now seem over-exposed drew no such thought, as the perfect execution left the room craving more. It is fantastic how something so delicate can come across as so strong. It makes you wish everyone would embrace the entrancing beauty of this collection, hoping that you might wake up the next morning to a world filled with Valentino Couture. Toss aside the non-wearable Haute Couture connotations – we want to wear every single look. Someone make a film about the Roman Empire using all of these looks… stat!
Armani Privé Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Joan Jett had a lovechild with Prince and their union was a match made in Armani Haute Couture heaven. The rebellious, confident air of the 80’s inspired collection was undeniable. There were short raven-haired wigs, boldly colored ombre sequin getups, bulky geometric accessories and puffy but glamorous feather creations. Nevertheless, the elegance seethed out of every garment, its glamour needing no heel. The elevated 80’s looks were however strengthened by the choice of flat footwear, allowing for the eyes to focus wholeheartedly on the beautiful shimmer of the Privé wonder.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by the fantasy and extravagance of a cosmopolitan life from Parisian Chic to Roman baroque, Schiaparelli presents a collection that combines the essences of the contemporary urban woman. Fabrics were made to match the elegance and style of the Schiaparelli woman, from black and red-blooded velvets to intricately embroidered coats. Giving way for these luxurious fabrics was a silhouette of simplicity – giving the collection an aestheticism that can almost be regarded as androgynous if it weren’t for the exuberantly feminine prints.
Guess: His & Hers
Forget everything you know about denim. Guess’ slogan challenges you to ponder the age old adage of ‘no denim on denim’ with their denim capsule collection. Who doesn’t like to shake up the rules every once in a while? Well forget everything about what you’d think a denim suit would look like – Guess throws all the rules out of the window and presents the tailored denim suit… and nails it. The collection showcases the customization of the sophisticated suit, where Guess presents a complete reversal of this thought-to-be fashion faux pas. A top to toe denim suit . A sexy one. For both him and her. The tailored denim items will be available from September 2015.
Louis Vuitton Series 3 – Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign
Starring new muse Alicia Vikander and returning beauty Jennifer Connelly, the campaign is shot by Juergen Teller and Bruce Weber and showcases the FW 2015-2016 collections worn by the quintessential Louis Vuitton woman. The refined elegance of the garments and the women is highlighted, juxtaposed against an industrial, stark background. Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière has had an amazing season following the stunning resort collection and continues to take the brand to new heights.
Saint Laurent Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Another nod to the essences of rock stardom, Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent man is one of effortless androgyny. Black skinny jeans and a fringed leather jacket, cut out jeans, flannel and printed lettermans – the SS 2016 collection seems tailor-made for the festival crowd. Considering the attention of which the stereotypical festivalgoer’s outfit is subjected to these days, it is not surprising that a fashion house as big as Saint Laurent is manifesting their own take on the rugged urbanite. Like Woodstock’s iconic fashion imprinted itself firmly in the mainstream, so it seems, does the reformulated versions of it – this time in the form of Hedi Slimane’s vision of Californian music culture.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Drawing from the animal-inspired imagery of Asian origin, Kim Jones presented a silky, aloof and quirky collection at Paris Fashion Week. As seemed to be the trend with the menswear collections recently, Jones drew inspiration from the intermingling of cultures and notions. Apparent in his garments were the sporty essences of the American variety: accessories resembled bowling bags, sweaters and letterman jackets were fashioned with a Louis Vuitton high-fashion tweak. Indeed following the spectacular womens’ resort collection, Jones does not disappoint. There is something in this collection for anyone, and it is with this strong sensibility for wearable eccentricity that the 2016 Menswear collection shines.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Welcome to the ‘hip-rock’ generation. Dubbed and exemplified by Philipp Plein’s SS 16 menswear collection, the young fashion house presents a virtual summary of what’s what in urban contemporary street fashion. Graffiti, ripped shirts, hoodies, biker jackets and tons of leather characterize this development of hip hop fashion – a movement headed by the pop culture Rock stars of today such as Rihanna, Jay-Z and Kanye West. Philipp Plein’s collection is an ode to the focus and celebration of hip-hop tradition and its newborn fashion child appropriately named ‘hip-rock’.
Filippa K Fall/Winter 2015
Inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, the FW 2015 collection is steeped in the mystic ambiance of Rousseau’s naturalistic paintings. Ingrained with French 70’s references, the collection blends Filippa K’s effortless simplicity with rich structure and decorative detailing. The women’s collection is epitomized by the rich wool blazer of a distinctly masculine origin, paired with an A-line leather skirt and a mid calf leather bootee.
The menswear section of the FW 15 collection is marked by a decidedly urban approach to contemporary functionalism and modern tailoring. In this vein, the collection has taken on an air of the sport, street and military references of the revitalized Filippa K man. With voluminous outerwear and a classic color palette, the FW 15 collection is a step towards an urbanized Filippa K aesthetic.
Emporio Armani Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
With a decidedly East-meets-West point of departure, the Emporio Armani 2016 show paired European silhouettes with contemporary cuts seen in the fashionable streets of the East. More of a resonance of the Eastern demand for European high fashion, Giorgio presents classic cuts, the ‘Armanified’ version of the coveted sneaker, sleek sunglasses and the occasional beret.
ZOO Magazine No. 47, Summer Issue – Out Now!
Gracing the covers of ZOO Magazine No. 47 is a decidedly musical cast - Sam Smith, currently touring with his Grammy-award winning album, Irish singer Róisín Murphy with upcoming dates in Europe, as well as Theo Hutchcraft of enigmatic duo the Hurts and experimental Austrian artist Soap & Skin. ZOO’s summer issue is packed with an eclectic blend of musicians, artists and shoots!
The issue also features a very special collaboration between ZOO and performance artist Ulay. In a recreation of his opus of the 70s, Anagrammatic Bodies features amongst others actresses Nina Hoss and Iris Berben, and cements Ulay’s comeback to the international art scene. Nobuyoshi Araki’s August of Araki and Paul Kooiker’s latest book Nude Animal Cigar will also feature alongside the best of Berlin’s Gallery Weekend.
This and much more will feature in ZOO Magazine’s issue #47, the summer edition – out now!
Art Basel June 18 – 21
The premier international art show for Modern and Contemporary work, Art Basel brings together an impressive amalgam of leading galleries worldwide to the very heart of Europe. Every artistic medium is represented, from painting, sculpture, installations and videos to prints, photography and performance. Described as the ‘Olympics of the Art World’, around 300 galleries from across the globe will ascend upon the Swiss town to view more than 4000 artists. Galleries such as MOT International, Esther Schipper, Zeno X Gallery and Galerie Isabella Bortolozzi will be presenting wide arrays of artists including Wu Tsang, Anton Corbijn, Roman Ondák and Elisabeth Price.
Ulay, Retouching Bruises, 1975. Stand J10
Phillippe Parreno, Speech Bubbles. Hall 2.1. Booth S1.
Michaël Borremans, The Horse, 2015. Hall 2.1, Booth P4
Wu Tsang, DAMELO TODO // ODOT OLEMAD, 2010-2011/14.
Laure Prouvost, It Heat Hit, 2010. Stadtkino Basel, Klostergasse 5, June 16.
In addition to the display of great masters and emerging talents, the show offers a program packed with informative and inspiring events, from symposiums, to films and artist talks. Talks on offer include artist talks presented by Danish artist Danh Vö and Curator Manuela Ammer, to conversations surrounding the public and private spheres of art globally. Among many others on this impressive rooster is Curator of the Serpentine Gallery Hans Ulrich Obrist, Solveig Øvstebø, executive Director and Chief Curator of The Renaissance Society and the artist Wael Shawky.
As one of the many artists present, founding father of performance art Ulay will exhibit parts of his new and previous works. Following his recent collaboration with ZOO, issues of ZOO No. 47 will also be present at his stand.
Les Hommes Menswear Fall/Winter 2015 at Milan Fashion Week
Black leather and striking geometric prints. What else could a man want?
Les Hommes certainly caters to a wide spectrum of the population with the FW 2015/2016 collection. In every look, there are pieces that can transition into most styles and occasions. It is exactly this Les Hommes’ collection is spectacularly achieving — an innate versatility that leaves you wondering just how fast you will see some of these looks replicated on the high street. The chevron patterns reign supreme, and it is a wonderful take on the simplistic geometry one would expect to see in a contemporary menswear collection. From the patterned parka to the grey and white chevron sweaters — Les Hommes’ collection twists the print trend and reshapes it into something even cooler.
Gucci Cruise 2016 Collection
New York City set the stage for the morning show of Gucci’s Cruise 2016 collection on June 4th. The collection, conceived by its prolific Creative Director Alessandro Michele, consists of an easy-going, youthful appreciation of urban city life. Staged in a warehouse in the city, models walked in through the venue straight off the streets, reflecting the collections’ fresh, ready-to-wear vibe and vintage affinities of the urban city crowd.
Following the collection, Michele hosted a private supper party in celebration of the collection in The Browery Bar and Grill, with a custom menu provided by Bushwick eatery Roberta’s. Special performances by Karen Elson featuring Jackson Smith and DJ Kim Ann Foxman reflected the laid-back, edgy take on vintage city-chic of the 2016 Cruise collection.
The New G-SHOCK MRG-G1000
For more than 30 years, G-SHOCK wares have ascended upon the time-telling industry with impact due to its Japanese-made (Made in Japan) engineering. G-shock was born from a desire to create timepieces of enduring quality. The robust double-coated Titanium housings envelop the newest in G-shock developed technology - creating a near indestructable timepiece.
The latest addition to the G-SHOCK MR-G flagship series is the MRG-G1000. Shock-resistant and stocked with a hybrid GPS and Radio controlled timekeeping system, the independent solared powerded MRG combines affinity for technological utility with a classically strong aesthetic. Made from Titanium with a diamond-like coating which protects the MRG-G1000, the watch is strengthened by a face of sapphire glass, making the piece both anti-reflective and scratch resistant.
Barny Nakhle for Haider Ackermann
Shoemaker Barny Nakhle has been appointed the new creative head of Haider Ackermann’s accessories department – more specifically its diverse footwear collection. Following work for stockists worldwide, Nakhle will contribute his own distinct craftsmanship to the Belgian shoe house. The Nahkle-conceived collection will be launched in a few weeks for the SS16 season.
With a decidedly architectural approach, playfulness and the sharpness of form come together to create an assemblage of uniform classicism with a twist of innovation. The collection is currently available via appointment only at the Boon showroom in Paris between June 24th – July 3rd.
Nordic Contemporary: “Too Much Of A Good Thing”
A temporary space at the Republique in Paris is set to house a formative group exhibition of artists from Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland. The Nordic gathering of ten Scandinavian artists, will exhibit paintings, sculptures, drawings and videos, presented through the artists’ unique interpretations. Beyond the mere geographical commonality of the artists, they are connected by their interest in the intersection of high and low culture, the polished and raw and the natural and clinical.
Founded, directed and curated by artist Andreas Emenius and cultural entrepreneur Jacob Valdemar, the series of changing exhibitions intend to showcase contemporary Scandinavian art in this satellite extension of the Copenhagen and Stockholm origins through diverse media. Mapping links between traditional and newer movements, the exhibition aims at delving into art that exists somewhere between self-reflection and self-expression.
Sebastian Helling, UNTITLED (AFFECTION), 2015
Jenni Hiltunen, Filmstill from "Grind", 2012
Rolf Nowotny, Bumbling Through the Night II, 2014
Erik Jeor, Icône VI, 2015
If you are a fan of Scandinavian art and contemporary culture then save the date for the Nordic Contemporary Paris Art Exhibition!
Nordic Contemporary opens Thursday May 28th till June 7th 2015 on rue du Château d’Eau 14 in Paris.
Dior Cruise 2016 in Le Palais Bulles
Sitting on the cliffs of Théoule-sur-Mer, the grand habitat for Dior’s own Pierre Cardin came to be the unique setting for the Cruise showcase. A spectacle of a building and an architectural curiosity, its surroundings mimic the exuberant and vibrant quality of the equally playful garments. The terra-cotta bauble backdrop of the Antti Lovag-designed abode is intertwined with the inherent vision of the clothing.
Raf Simons, the artistic director of Christian Dior, elicits the landscape and memory of a certain Cote D’Azur mode de vie in the Dior 2016 Cruise Collection. Drawing inspiration from the natural world, the collection and evokes the ethereal quality of the serene southern coast.
Indeed, in Simons’ utopian project, tradition and technique merge in the creation of a collection that pair youthful modernism with traditional craftsmanship. Simons explains his approach to the collection as arising from the perspective of playful freedom and individuality, peppered with a light and fresh aesthetic. Fabrics are knitted and layered in a tapestry-like construction, a play on the idea of ‘homespun’ crafts, yet bolstered by bias cut gowns and lurex textiles.
SYBILLE by Hester Scheurwater
Dutch artist Hester Scheurwater does not tiptoe around the topic of female sexuality. Her oeuvre is beset by her ardent investigation and critique of the role of women as a sex object. Using portraiture, her work often includes the use of reflections, more specifically, through the inclusion of a physical mirror that communicate inner thoughts and outward appearance.
Explaining the impact of her work in ZOO issue 31, Scheurwater states “It is ‘normal’ for male artists to look at the female body and turn it into the object of their art. It becomes an aberration when it is a woman who handles the chisel or stands behind the camera, especially if they portray themselves”. Her work is no stranger to censorship, featuring provoking and often unsettling perspectives of the female form.
Her latest collaboration SYBILLE follows in the same vein. A collection of images taken of the same subject, the SYBILLE study is available in 100 softcover zine editions, signed and numbered.
Orders can be sent to firstname.lastname@example.org
Giorgio Armani Celebrates 40th Anniversary with the Opening of ARMANI/SILOS
The opening of the Armani/Silos exhibition space on April 30th marks the 40th year of Giorgio Armani’s illustrious career. Open to the public, the space revels in futurism, revealing to the visitor a uniquely rich showcase of contemporary attitudes and lifestyles. Behind its sharp architectural exterior waits the 4,500 square meter, four level space.
Dubbed Silos due to its past life storing food, the designer explains its creation, “Because fashion, which seems to want to live in an eternal present, needs to reflect on itself and its own roots in order to face the future. Through this process of reflection, we see how fashion accompanies and often anticipates important social changes”. Behind the sharp architectural exterior lies the designer’s vision of simplicity, aiming to achieve a rational form, void of superfluous adornment.
The configuration of the space is of a dispersed creative life, the ground floor dedicated to his daywear, exoticism on the first floor, color schemes of the second floor and a theme of light on the fourth floor.
To read more, visit
Prada Pre-Fall 2015 Campaign
Fashion house Prada kick off their Pre-Fall 2015 campaign with the photographic genius of Steven Meisel. Boldly showcasing the pristine and dramatic elegance that has become a trademark for the brand, shadows play off the subdued patterned fabrics and faces. Alluding to the stoicism of marble statues, the images play with the ambiguity of gender. The fashion house has long been an advocate of exploring the complexities of gender, spurring on the frequently emulated masculine shoe trend with their platform lace-ups.
Characteristics, similar and dissimilar, are explored in the collection, whose campaign highlights the often-synchronous style of male and female. Paired together in couples, models Maartje Verhoef, Niels Trispel, Willow Hand, Artur Chruszcz, Aya Jones, Tim Schuhmacher and others present the stark stoicism of the Prada Pre-Fall campaign.
Check out the Pre-Fall 2015 campaign at:
America’s Cup x Louis Vuitton
With the announcement of its renewed commitment to the ‘holy grail’ of sailing, Louis Vuitton is confirming its support of the sport by becoming the title partner of the America’s Cup World Series. Over time, the collaborations between America’s Cup and Louis Vuitton have grown into a fully-fledged partnership. Since 1983, the fashion house has worked with this bastion of adventure and sportsmanship. As the presenting partner of the 35th America’s Cup Match, Louis Vuitton will contribute their sense of timeless luxury to the Cup Qualifiers and Challenger Playoffs in 2016 and 2017 respectively, as well as present for the Cup Match in Bermuda in 2017.
The fashion house will have a visible presence in the tournament – on land, in the water and through live and online broadcasts. Dating back to 1851, the America’s Cup trophy is the oldest in international sport and an undeniable symbol of excellence. The Cup’s trophy travels encased in trademark Louis Vuitton style – their custom monogrammed case. Who better to transport this iconic trophy than one of the most recognizable in designer travel ware than Louis Vuitton! The Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series 2015 consists of a total of three events, kicking off in July in Portsmouth (UK), before travelling to Gothenburg (Sweden) and finally Bermuda.
John Varvatos - Detroit Homecoming
Detroit always comes back.
Setting his sights on his Motor-City roots, the contemporary American menswear designer John Varvatos makes a return with the opening of a Detroit-based store with his Bedrock Real Estate firm, in partnership with Dan Gilbert.
Combining the vintage aesthetic with impeccable tailoring techniques, Varvatos designs from the perspective of retrospection: “my philosophy is about reaching back to move forward”, says John. It is perhaps fitting then, that the design house is making its mark on “Motor City”, triumphantly returning to the musical melting pot where the sounds of Motown, rock & roll, blues, jazz and punk reverberated throughout its industrial streets.
Finding inspiration in great music, both classic and eclectic in taste, his musical influences remains continually and visibly present in his collections. His ad campaigns have featured a plethora of rock & roll legends such as Iggy Pop, Alice Cooper, Velvet Revolver, Chris Cornell and Dave Matthews among others.
The opening of the Detroit store was celebrated with the specialist aid of Alice Cooper, hosted by Chrysler.
The John Vervatos Detroit store is located on the ground floor of the former 1891 dated Schwankovsky Temple of Music.
Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza
For the first time in Europe, a Hard Rock Hotel has opened its doors. The five-star hotel is located on the beachfront of Ibiza, and is the island’s largest in the 5-star hotel category. With amazing line-ups, four restaurants and seven bars, there is always something to do.
To give visitors the ultimate rock star experience, the designers of the hotel have thought about every detail. The overall look might seem a bit over the top, but every corner and every room is created to give you a memorable musically-infused experience. Staying close to the essence of Hard Rock, you can find memorabilia throughout the entire hotel. You’ll see instruments and other items that were once owned by well-known musicians.
To make you feel like one of those musicians, you get to be completely in control of the music around you. When you check in, you can choose your favorite tracks that will play once enter your room. Once you get there, you can mix those tracks on a professional mixer that is ready for you to use, just like several instruments for you to jam on.
With thirteen different room categories, the Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza is an extremely diverse one. All 493 rooms are filled with nicely designed furniture to give you the most comfortable and inspiring stay. The spacious suites include all luxuries, with the best linens, led-light chromotherapy and an Xbox in every suite.
Miu Miu: De Djess
Miu Miu has been celebrating femininity with the short-film series called Miu Miu Women’s Tales. This time, Alice Rohrwacher was given the chance to write and direct a film about the power of women. The film follows the story of several dresses that arrive at the shore. The main dress, also the lead in this particular film, has a different story to tell.
For some reason, the film has a slight Wes Anderson feel to it. There is some kind of uniqueness in the way the actors move, in art direction and communication. Even though the language used in the film is made up, it communicates the message clearly. Rather than giving you all the right answers, Rohrwacher makes you want to ask more questions.
Miu Miu Opens New Store in Tokyo
For the newest Miu Miu store, the team behind the brand has collaborated with Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. They have created an architectural masterpiece that shows the core of Miu Miu as a brand. The store is artistic, quirky and everything is just a bit off. Exactly how Miu Miu is too. The store is located in the Aoyama District of Tokyo, a city Miu Miu has been focusing on for a while. Unlike many other luxury brands, Miu Miu gas chosen for an area that isn’t known for being very elegant. The architecture suits the Japanese city landscape and shows a new take on luxury; something Miuccia Prada has been doing from the start.
Antony Morato Celebrates Italian Tradition
As a typically Italian brand, Antony Morato has shown that it is all about culture, style and the passion for beauty. To celebrate Italian tradition and their heritage, the brand has decided to become a part of the restoration of The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, an Italian classic. This elegant masterpiece stands for what Antony Morato strands for, and continues to inspire us. The film was directed by Vittorio De Sica in 1970 and won an Academy Award in 1972.
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI X MAD et LEN
Designer Boris Bidjan Saberi and blacksmiths MAD et LEN have worked together to create a new line of candles that are both unique and utterly sublime. In style of both brands, the candles are hand poured and made into burned steel jars, which gives them a dark and mysterious design.
Savage Beauty at the Victoria & Albert
When we look at the past few decades of British fashion, we can conclude quite quickly that Alexander McQueen has been one of the most innovative and creative designers. The board of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London has therefore decided to celebrate McQueen’s genius with an exhibition called “Savage Beauty”. It takes you through his life, mind and work and shows you his passions for romanticism and curiosities.
Portrait of Alexander McQueen, 1997 photographed by Marc Hom. © Marc Hom/Trunk Archive
It’s Only a Game, Spring/Summer 2005. Image: firstVIEW
The exhibition can be visited every day, until the 2nd of August of this year.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whenever Hedi Slimane shows a collection, we are sure of one thing: people will talk. The opinions are never as divided as they are at a Saint Laurent show, which makes it one of the most anticipated shows during Paris Fashion Week.
The great thing about Slimane is that he does not really care, and that is exactly what he showed us with his creations for next fall. His Saint Laurent girl is back. Or maybe she has never been gone to begin with. She continues to be the coolest girl in town. Careless and feisty, a little like Slimane himself. She hangs around at rock shows and ends up modeling by accident. She is the girl that most girls (secretly) want to be, and that is why Slimane proves to be a commercial success. Over and over again.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Burton’s latest collection for Alexander McQueen told the story of life. The build-up of the show portrayed the beautiful beginning, the development and death of a rose as a perfect metaphor. The middle part of the collection was in full bloom, which was visible in silhouette and rich detail. Compared to other designers, Burton has chosen for different floral print for fall.
Key looks were short dresses that seemed to be literally made out of large flowers. The body was covered in ruffled chiffon, while the skirt looked like a popped flower.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though it does not always seem like it, fashion is an industry that accepts and forgives. This was proven during the latest Maison Margiela show by John Galliano, when we all embraced him back into our hearts.
The collection itself contained a perfect balance between Galliano’s signature style, together with how we see Margiela. It had humor, uniqueness, craftsmanship and was it filled with small references. Everything we ever expect from a Margiela collection.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Rei Kawakubo’s collections tend to get smaller, but for some reason they tend to get more powerful too. Her latest show had a certain sadness, perhaps portraying the pain of an artist.
Every piece in the collection was grand, perfectly made and telling a different story. Or maybe the story was not different, but each and every look went trough a different phase. In a way, the show was about a lack of freedom. Covered arms and almost suffocating dresses showed a broken woman; a women who couldn’t seem to escape and completely accepted her condition.
Even though we might not know the specifics, Kawakubo told us her story. We may or may not understand it, but we surely like to keep on trying.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Dries Van Noten never fails to amaze. His Fall/Winter 2015 collection has clearly been inspired by his earlier work, which was simply inevitable by this point in time. We saw oriental colors and prints, combined with powerful but effortless shapes. Strong and rich materials met stiff and oversized fabrics that made every look slightly more modest.
The Dries-woman looks like she is somewhat of a modern emperor. Golden prints and embezzlements, together with the use of satin, scream femininity and refer to old China, where she seems to be taking over.
Zadig & Voltaire at Paris Fashion Week 2015
The two Swedes behind Zadig & Voltaire, Cecilia Bönström and Paulo Melim Andersson, have managed to make the brand more French then ever. The Fall/Winter 2015 collection radiates Parisian rock and roll, which has always been the core of Zadig & Voltaire.
Embellished pinstriped suits and studded leather showed the essence of their style, but the use of fur added something slightly new. Highly luxurious, long, patchwork fur coats were key pieces in the collection.
Tod’s at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandra Facchinetti knows exactly what she is doing with Tod’s, which originally started as a footwear brand. For the past few seasons, she has been pushing the boundaries within Tod’s design. She showed us full looks in leather for Fall/Winter 2015, in soft pastels with a few popping brights. The collection is extremely feminine and dares to combine many different styles into one.
CoSTUME NATIONAL at Milan Fashion Fall/Winter 2015
Ennio Capasa manages to bring New York to Milan. His minimalistic, black looks in leather and other luxurious materials like silk, seem to be made for young people in creative capitals. Hoodie-like jackets and details on dresses give the collection a sporty, even more urban look. Combine that with fur and ruffles, and you’ve got yourself some New York in Milan.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The F in fur is for Fendi, so naturally the Fall/Winter collection for 2015 had lots of it. The focus within the show was on animal materials, with different kinds of fur, leather and shearling.
Lately, the brand has been in a specific late sixties mood with A-line dresses, large buttons, and graphically assembled patchwork. We saw architectural creations in perfectly matched colors. The silhouettes were fresh and intriguing, embracing Lagerfeld's look on luxury.
Details were – like always – of high importance. Cut off fur on the cuffs of blouses and on gloves were nicely and elegantly placed. Graphical prints turned looks into paintings and left us in awe.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since he started his brand, PHILIPP PLEIN has been focused on taking streetwear to different level. We never know quite what to expect, even though he does not necessarily give us something extremely modernistic to chew on. There is something about his personal style that is familiar yet intriguing.
Plein’s looks are anything but plain. Cut out leather and voluminous fur dominated his latest show. The combination with hardware and crystals makes every piece an eye-catching phenomenon, turning the collection into a celebration of luxury and boldness.
Next to the collection, Plein made sure he impressed us with the colossal rollercoaster he had installed. In his book, even the sky is not the limit.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
There is always something particularly dramatic about Dame Vivienne Westwood. For the first look of her new collection, she started off with a quite quiet, grey oversized coat. Immediately after that, we saw her true nature come out with various asymmetric designs in bold color combinations. There was a lot of Westwood’s classic tailoring going on, combined with perfect draping that showed impeccable fluidity. By using velvet and silk, she made sure that this would only be complimented.
The show existed out of both quirky items and highly wearable, slightly discreet jackets and pants. Altogether, Westwood –once again- managed to meet our expectations.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Into the Mind of Ghesquière
Lately, there have been many different ways of presenting collections, but Nicolas Ghesquière is once again taking things to another level. He brings his spring 2015 women’s ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton to Los Angeles, where they opened a multi-room exhibit. In the gallery, located in the heart of Hollywood, Louis Vuitton takes you on a journey through Ghesquière’s creative process and shows you his timeless inspirations. Series 2 makes you think differently about fashion, shows the essence of Louis Vuitton and allows you to travel through the mind of this master.
Porsche Design at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though the latest show by Porsche Design is a mixture of forties and eighties styles, futuristic vibes, utilitarian silhouettes and slight rockabilly influences, it still remains a coherent collection. Wool coats, stiff jackets and somewhat casual suits hint towards a young but ambitious target audience. Large belts exaggerate the waistline to create a strong, yet feminine look, while fall colors such as black, grey, dark green and beige make the garments highly wearable.
Pierre Costin, the designer behind the brand, has chosen to present a powerful and modern couple. Traditional values meet a new aesthetic, which offers us a playful interpretation of how power can look.
Z Zegna Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Z Zegna vamps up the velocity with its latest campaign, an ambitious multimedia affair, “Be Your Own Style 24:7”.
Interpreted within a high-octane film, the sports tailoring of Z Zegna’s Spring/Summer collection hits dizzying heights, sported by professional parkourists as they chase their next urban adrenaline fix from Milan’s exquisite architecture. Scintillating, sharp and impossibly sleek, Z Zegna’s modern man may seek out a life on the edge, but not at his sartorial expense – that’s one thing that’s kept cautious, 24:7.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Vivienne Westwood and Juergen Teller have joined forces once again, this time together with American actress, Paz de la Huerta, star of Westwood’s artful SS15 campaign.
Against scrap-papered walls and paint-stippled floors, de la Huerta, Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler pose and play in the experimental environs of Nuremberg’s Academy of Fine Arts, where the designer teaches. Westwood and Andreas fell in love with the architecture of the school, sensing it an inspiring setting to shoot. Seemly in the surrounds, it was Teller’s suggestion to involve the students in the creation of the campaign – some even appearing in the pictures as subjects.
True to form, the images are unhinged, vivacious and unapologetically brazen, stark in the steely light of Teller’s flash, frames seditious and skewed. A chaotic curation from the Gold Label, Red Label, MAN and accessories collections, clothes proved suitably subversive – and rightly so. It is Westwood, after all…
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
No matter how many times Rei Kawakubo gets her hands on tailoring, you can be sure that whatever she produces will be entirely distinct from anything gone before. This season proved no different, reliably idiosyncratic, yet impossibly singular.
Snug sleeved tops and leggings were scrawled in kaleidoscopic graffiti scripts, inky colors blushed and bleeding across the body. Biro-blue suits were sucked skin-tight, cinched in at the stomach by double-breasted buttons.
Traditional pinstripes sat fittingly far from convention, the way blazer buttons seemed to curl around the body, garments appearing almost reluctant – struggling to escape. Bulky blazers hung from shoulders and swung airily above shorn broad shorts, while mandarin collars carved jackets with a cunningly clean line. Culottes kicked out thanks to kilt pleats, paired with diamond-check golfing shirt and bow tie, before giving way to gummy leather suits, bandaging the body in strips of supple skins.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Arcane as an all-black palette persists to be, the presentation of Augustin Teboul’s FW15 collection emerged aptly esoteric against the backdrop of the label’s photography exhibition, ‘Sounds of Black’.
Hugo Capablanca and Tanja Siren
Twenty-nine photos lined the walls of Berlin’s Kronprinzenpalais, depicting extraordinary people in rather ordinary situations. Shot by the master lens of Stefan Milev, subjects such as Iris Berben, Meret Becker, Donata Wenders and Peaches were immortalised in black and white, each wearing pieces from the collection in their own irrepressible image.
Like others before, this season demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship, perceptibly made by hand and to inspiring effect; wools were knotted and barbed, hooked over shoulders and undulating in its web. Silk chiffon blouses bulged at the sleeve, tucked into long lacquered gloves with commanding flair. Pop shapes were punched out in supple leather, stitched together as a progressive kind of patchwork. Mesh turtlenecks were erratically exaggerated, occasionally coated in an abstract crochet, other times fringed in compartmentalised bursts. Colour may comprise of just one voice, but under Augustin Teboul, it certainly makes a sound.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Louis Vuitton paid a poignant tribute to Christopher Nemeth this FW15, as Kim Jones channelled the signature cuts of his design hero, stamping club kid prints onto Saville row silhouettes – the immortal hallmark of Nemeth.
Bonded cashmere sweaters and buff duffle coats were emblazoned in laser-etched Nemeth insignia, while sturdy leather trunk cases bore his emblems in flock. Chubby teddy-bear furs were too branded by Nemeth’s curling motif, inscribed deep into their pelt – a brooding detail that was all the more acute for its stealth. Drainpipe turn-ups skimmed slight ankles in rough wool and chambray, meeting the clunky casualness of a leather brogue-sneaker hybrid, at once nerdy and athletic in boot-polish black and tan.
Micro monogram bags crossed over bodies, their super-skinny straps harnessing pointed collar jackets in fuzzy wool and thermo-finished leather in rich tones of buttermilk and wine. Khaki quilting padded bombers and boiler suits, while grid checks and amplified polka dots paraded tailored suits and co-ords. While his references may well be interpreted as a touching tribute, they read all the more tenderly as an effort of Jones in his own right – a reference to the past, perhaps, but with both eyes fixed doggedly on the future.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
You can always trust Yamamoto’s edge to be dependably cutting – razor-sharp, in fact, as he severed silken hems and butchered buttoned-up blazers, rumpling scraggy shirts and waistcoats in his path. The emphasis on tailoring made a good effort to scrub-up smart, but it goes without saying that Yamamoto thrives in a state of dishevelment.
Unfailingly monochromatic, sable-black dominated the spectrum where tailoring was concerned, as tissue-thin silk sheaths were piled high to form blouson shirts and broad beaches – only in their eventual rough-cutting was their ply revealed. Knits were patched to weave dichotomous co-ords, charcoal grey ribbed wools stitched to bulky navy arans, unfinished, asymmetric and aptly bedraggled. Then there were those marbled velvets – plush and unctuous in their inky hues; strewn over untucked shirts and washout tees, the look was that of a drifter as opposed to debonair – and all the more alluring for it. After all, Yamamoto never could keep from wandering…
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense at Pace London
During the '60s and the '80s, the Robert Fraser Gallery played an important role in the British art scene. Opened in 1962 by dealer and Swinging London fixture, Robert Fraser, the institution supported and helped launch the careers of some of the most influential artists of the 20th century.
Portrait of John Edwards Francis Bacon, 1988
Over the years, the London gallery became a social hub for iconic entertainers such as John Lennon, Yoko Ono, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, William Burroughs, Marianne Faithful and Marlon Brando, many of whom were close friends of Fraser. Paul McCartney has even referred to the gallerist as “one of the most influential people of the London sixties scene”, while Richard Hamilton forever commemorated Fraser and Jagger’s drug-related arrest in his seminal work, ‘Swingeing London 67’.
Swingeing London 67R Hamilton
Delving in to the live and career of Robert Fraser, Pace London will reveal “a personal portrait” of the scintillating man. Curated by Brian Clarke, who was once represented by Fraser, ‘A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense” will capture the essence of the noted gallerist through a series of works by Francis Bacon, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Richard Hamilton, Jean Dubuffet, Dennis Hopper and many more. The exhibition will coincide with Clark’s solo presentation, ‘Spitfires and Primroses’, also at Pace London.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense: 6 February – 28 March, 2015 (6 Burlington Gardens) Spitfires and Primroses: 13 February – 21 March 2015 (6–10 Lexington Street)
In Focus: Play at J. Paul Getty Museum
Summer, The Lower East Side, New York City, 1937. Weegee (Arthur Fellig). The J. Paul Getty Museum. © International Center of Photography
Photography was introduced in 1839. Around the same time, as a result of the Industrial Revolution, a number of people in Europe and the United States were starting to discover the perks of having a previously unimaginable amount of free time.
During the 1850s, the notion of leisure became a photographic subject; activities like visits to amusement parks and circuses and playing in the street were now recorded, highlighting the myriad ways in which people can spend their free time.
From 23 December, 2014, to 10 May, 2015, the Getty Museum in Los Angeles will present more than two dozen images from the institution's permanent collection. 'In Focus: Play' will trace the development of photography, all the while revealing the very nature of recreation.
The exhibition will feature photographic works by prominent and lesser-known artists such as Diane Arbus, Imogene Cunningham, Roger Fenton, Man Ray and Larry Sultan.
In Focus: Play 23 December, 2014 – 10 May, 2015
Céline Fall/Winter 2017
“The spectator is caught under a cloudy or a starry sky, surrounded by ocean waves or masses of people running towards him, while he is entranced by the dramatic actions of the central round arena. The division between acting and the audience no longer exists. Words, light and music no longer have a set place […] The director alters position and spatial forms and mercilessly subjects the audience to the dynamics of his imaginations”.
Walter Gropius’s words during 1934 Volta congress in Rome resonate strong in Phoebe Philo’s setting choice for her Celine Fall/Winter 2017 show. It’s not the first time that a fashion designer is fascinated by the visionary ideas of the Bauhaus pioneer for his Total Theater, where the audience was supposed to revolve during the performance, shifting the spectators and the stage area to alter the viewer's scale of values and forcing them to participate in the act.
We have known Phoebe Philo for her no-nonsense vision and relaxed, elegant silhouettes as the embodying of the powerful, confident working woman who has no time for superfluous fuss. The catwalk was populated by a tribe of women, with their different life, different tempo, like we would find in any busy street.
At first glance Celine Fall Winter 2017 is just all that. Exceptional tailoring and gimmick-free looks: the long trench coat, oversized tuxedo blazers, long tunics with matching fluent pants for the day and a modern version of emperor dresses for a more dress-up feel, a crisp white shirt.
But Philo’s masterly created a collection again beautifully lying in the details, revealing its stance dramatically at a closer look.
The collection featured beautiful origami-like seam lines as mimicking the movement of the body and its presence. Like when you bend your harm and a crisp fabric would inevitably crease. It’s real life that Philo delicately suggests. Real women who don’t need to scream.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
Loewe’s creative director J.W. Anderson is transforming this luxury Spanish leather brand into an impressive fashion house where cultural references, design, architecture, and the beautiful leather craftsmanship coexist.
Like for his eponymous label, Anderson is able to create a dialogue between the arts, where fashion is at its centre, without any stretch. The romantic and enchanting feeling reminiscent of Gone with the Wind’s Rossella O’Hara ball gowns together with a playful splash of Commedia Dell’Arte’s Pierrot and Harlequin, where the polka dots and the western hat felt perfectly parts of the same image. But also the signature handkerchief hem dresses and a parade of countless accessories declined in new colours like the polka dot iconic puzzle bag.
As in every season we see experimentations with butter lamb leather in exceptional peplum waist-cinching tops, dresses, suits, outwear in a variety of colours: lipstick red, moss green, and the forever favourite almond and black. There are so many fascinations Anderson took into account for Loewe Fall Winter 2017 and it just feel fresh and captivating.
Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017
When everyone is playing urban street-wear, Jonny Johansson used a romantic and soft approach for his Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017.
The creative director is transforming the Scandinavian brand known for years as a denim forward label with a minimalist approach. For a while now we have seen Acne Studios feeding a new direction, a new light in terms of the brand’s identity increasingly far from the street. Acne Fall Winter 2017 is a spontaneous and playful collection with a strong sense of individuality and easiness.
Soft oversized mohair knits with polka dots, gently alluding to a sense of naiveté. Floral prints combined on a big selection of fabrics, from cotton to silk plissé. Long coats, in beautiful classic textiles, pin striped or checked, evolving into tunic-like dresses turned back-to front.
Johansson plays with the notion of tailoring almost as an ironic gesture, to vouch for the idea of an uncomplicated way of living, a different way of feeling the notion of femininity itself.
The designer’s love for accessory research once again was expressed with the beautiful statement jewellery in metal and enamel, together with the large oversized bags with wide straps and graphic knots. The asymmetric shades matching the floral deconstructed dresses and creating a further contrast to the soft organic feel of the whole collection gave the perfect youthful accent. We see a confident woman, she is intuitive and optimistic. No matter what.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
We have come to a point in fashion when history has been elevated without precedent. There is a lot of the 80s Monsieur Yves we know in the new Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. For Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2017 there is again a respectful reference to the history but also a lot of the Vaccarello DNA that we have seen in his eponymous label for many years.
That sexiness, that daring and fierce attitude the Italo-Belgian designer infused in his own shows season after season before becoming the new creative director of the historical Maison. And then there is the show vibe. Anthony Vaccarello presented his second collection for Saint Laurent in a surreal, and provoking atmosphere inside the under-construction site of the new brand’s head quarters in rue Bellechasse at the Left Bank of the Seine. The rain pouring down, the scaffolding as backdrop, the loud pulsing music as in any squat party, was the perfect set as to declare a new beginning, the shaping of the new identity of Saint Laurent in fieri.
Bold short dresses in velvet, caramel and black leather matched with long up-to-the-neck gloves as to create a tromp l’oeil effect for maxi shoulders. Thigh-high boots in patent leather and rhinestones with ruches - sure to become the obsession of next season. But also strong day looks with an invasive sense of masculinity: denim with mohair sweaters, shearling jackets, or a simple tee. It’s that subversive soul that Yves Saint Laurent himself was known for. It’s that unexpected atmosphere that everyone is waiting with anticipation at this fashion house. As his predecessor, Vaccarello will make everyone want to wear his clothes. With no exceptions.
UGG is REAL
A new global marketing Spring/Summer 2017 campaign has been launched by UGG to break down stereotypes.
Aptly titled “REAL” and bearer of a strong message, the campaign features a collective of authentic Californian artists, musicians, surfers, creatives and eccentrics that in their provocative, progressive and free spirited attitudes mirror the core values of the Californian fashion apparel.
Inspired by the beaches, mountains and iconic architecture of California, the stories of Tasya, the songs of Warm Brew, the trips of Colleen and many others will mix together to give birth to a whole contemporary romance where diversity is the main splendid character.
Make Love Not Walls
Through photographic material and a series of global actions, Diesels breaks down all barriers in communication with its #makelovenotwalls movement and tears down the mental and physical walls that separate us. In a time where hate, walls and fear seem to prevail, the brand urges us all to unite for the greater good.
“At Diesel we have a strong position against hate and more than ever we want the worlds to know that. Love and togetherness is crucial in creating a society we all want to live in, and the future we all deserve” explains Diesel Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti.
For this campaign, Formichetti collaborates with legendary artist and photographer David LaChapelle using the Wall as a symbol of separation and breaking it down to create strong stories through a simple yet powerful narrative: walls are built and the heart-shaped Diesel love tank tears them down. As a symbol of separation is reinterpreted into a symbol of unison and flowers fills the space, a celebration of freedom and love is born. Diesel is known for pushing the boundaries creatively.
From its 1995 LaChapelle campaign with two kissing sailors, to this year's anti-wall ads, it encourages us to let fear aside and focus on what brings us all together rather than what divides us. If You've got walls, Diesel's got wrecking balls!
Woolrich Re-imagines Men's Outerwear
Woolrich continues its long-standing tradition in conceiving and manufacturing technical outerwear of exceptional quality, a tradition born in the late 70s that has continued to be well-received by avid mountaineers.
The brand is relaunching its Mountain Jacket, one of the first examples of technical outerwear that ushered in the expansion of men's outdoor clothing in order to cater to the requirements of outdoor activities such as backpacking, camping and cycling. Designed with functional elements that suit the requirements of such activities, Woolrich's latest edition of the Mountain Jacket strikes the perfect balance between style and function thus also catering to the more aesthetically driven consumer.
A more contemporary style is brought to the fore ensuring maximum freedom of movement, comfort and warmth with its form-fitting cut, adjustable cuffs and ergonomic style. Gore-tex®'s lightest fabric, the Paclite, guarantees the best performance. Despite the air of innovation that characterises the latest jackets, the brand loyally adheres to the design elements of the late 70s that proved so successful in the past.
With a perfectly breathable waterproof Gore-tex® layer beneath the traditional durable and water repellent outer layer, the Mountain Jacket has proved itself to be a perfect companion for adventures in nature.
The adventurous gentlemen of BOSS Fall/Winter 2017
Gentlemen who voyage across the world without ever losing their style, inspired Hugo Boss for its latest collection, dedicated to those ready to take on the world.
Adventurers and explorers’ outfits that combine performance and functionality with Boss’ key foundations: precise cuts and construction. The modern traveller wardrobe will be composed of wider 80s silhouettes mixed with slimmer, modern cuts and long and short designs. Love for details is never forgotten by the brand that for this collection added a touch of maritime influence in pea coats and duffels secured with buckled straps and chunky fastenings in the style of nautical equipment.
Fabric research is just an added value to a proposal that puts quality first. Boiled wool, bonded leather and cotton to provide protection and create incredibly à la mode oversized shapes. Fisherman-style knitwear is crafted in chunky constructions and zipped closed with ring pulls to be functional and masculine at the same time. The color palette varies from off-white to burgundy and olive green passing through navy shades.
Modern travellers can sleep soundly: their luggage will always be fashionable.
Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2017
A mobius of forms, shaped in the seam lines, leading to dramatic volumes. Beautifully balanced but also true to his roots, Glenn Martens created a collection where Y/Project's identity is declined to a new sphere, all played through Martens’ all-time favourite ironic approach to dualities.
The low and the high, the elites and the masses, deconstructed garments and slouchy fits. Between historical reinvention and street culture, Y/Project's Menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2017 continues to master that relaxed and youthful attitude that has characterized Martens’ work from the start.
Doubled silk shirts, deconstructed faux fur, reinvented corduroy suits, slouchy oversized track suits straight from a rapper's videoclip, followed by the impressive sweatsuits with wired piping in a blobbing volume, reminiscent of that mantle draping we have seen on 1808 Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres’s portrait of Napoleon.
As Napoleon and consort printed on scarves in football merch fashion - part of Martens' playful reference along with other royal couples such as Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette - steal the scene and we cannot choose. We can only root for this talented Belgian designer.
Osservatorio Prada: the love story between cultural statements and fashion
An invisible thread silently connects fashion with art, a thread that only a few can pick up and follow. A feat that when achieved unlocks the secret behind timeless designers like Miuccia Prada.
Famous not only for creating garments and accessories that are considered pieces of art, Miuccia, has never hidden her devotion to art. Therefore, dedicating the famous Fondazione Prada based in Milan to art, seemed only natural. Collecting the most interesting exhibitions and pieces from contemporary and modern artists, Fondazione has become one of the most coveted destination for art-o-holics. Last December saw the opening of a new venue of Fondazione Prada that pays homage to photography and celebrates visual languages: Ossevatorio Prada.
Based in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the core of the Milanese fashion area, Osservatorio is a place of exploration and research of the latest tendencies and expressions of contemporary photography. Photography is, indeed, the contemporary epicenter of the global flux that digital communication is going through; that is why Osservatorio wants to unveil the cultural implications that it has on our society.
“Give Me Yesterday” by Francesco Zanot was the inaugural exhibition for Fondazione Prada's latest venue. A collection of more than fifty pieces of Italian and international artists that explores the usage of photography presented like a personal diary that travels from the 2000's to the present day.
Fondazione Prada’s contribution to the Italian art scene will leave an indelible mark, just like a photograph does.
Plein Sport Fall/Winter 2017
Sport and fitness are the latest addiction of modern society and that's a fact. It's not all about keeping fit anymore, it's a lifestyle. Designers have also caught the athleisure bug and among them is Phillip Plein who delivered a Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to sportswear during this year's Milan Fashion Week.
On a runway made over to resemble a racetrack, models, boxers and workout fanatics presented the first ever Plein Sport line. The collection features sweatshirts, puffer gilets and bombers, among many other fitness apparel favourites, fusing cutting-edge technology with luxurious materials.
Innovation is Philipp Plein's mantra and a key word for his collection that also offered sleeve pockets for iPhones and pioneered lightweight footwear and anti-sweat fabrics.
Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2017
Thousands of little flags suspended from the Grand Palais ceiling, as one of those summer festivals when the night breeze brush them gently. The coloured lights illuminating the room mimicking the stage reflectors of any hard rock concert we have attended in our teens.
When the Depeche Mode lyrics started to play and the lights went up revealing the cardboard boxes and “HARDIOR” packing tape paving the regal space, it all came together.
Kris Van Assche channelled his childhood memories in 90s Antwerp clubs, the music, the parties, creating an electrifying collection that explored not only the new course of Dior Homme after 10 years at its reigns but also the possible declination of modern tailoring.
Van Assche designed the suit for the young man, a dialogue between the cool boy party animal and formal clothing. Close fit blazer revealing baste stitching matched with relaxed loose high waist trousers worn with trainers and white socks. Winking to street-wear.
A sweater with the clustered image of monsieur Christian Dior himself - whose birthday was surprisingly the day of the show - and the sentence written right below “They should just let us rave” turned quickly the attention to a more rebellious side of Van Assche: the gothic sweeping floor length capes and teddy bear chain trousers, the hand painted short fur bomber jackets, the aquamarine jumpers and the orange pony double breasted trench coat.
The Belgian designer picked the candy boys, the gabba, the new wave and the mosch pits at raves as his references. The latter, illustrated by the hand of American artist Dan Witz and printed in few closing looks - like the intricate reverse sequins suit - gave a poignant accent to the whole collection.
Dior Homme is beautifully evolving into a strong luxury fashion brand and as the light goes down we can’t help but be excited, like the post feeling of any great concert.
PORTS 1961 LOVERS ARMY
PORTS 1961 Fall/Winter 2017 collection is all about love and its universal meaning. A collection that is minimalist and gives off a younger appeal than past seasons, will definitely warm your wardrobe and your heart.
The Ports 1961 man is ready to face whatever the day has in store. From protective sports clothing inspired by urban workwear to construction suits. Materials are primarily sober, solid and thick, giving a touch of virility to a pretty chic sportswear collection. In the contrasting palette of black, grey, red and orange, reversible bombers, slit sleeves’ coats, studded blousons and piped trousers are just a bite of this collection that sees heart and love all over it.
Details are what bring this collection its tempo – camouflage prints adored by Milan Vukmirovic are reworked and the quintessential white shirt is embellished with a blood red embroidered heart.
FENDI Spring/Summer 2017: it it girls in a pink pink world
Sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid are undoubtedly a winning model duo in this day and age. For Fendi's Spring/Summer 2017 campaign the Hadid siblings join forces with Italian model Vittoria Ceretti to bring the brand's latest collection to life.
Set in a Parisian apartment, Karl Lagerfeld created a pastel-coloured world with floral wallpapers, infusing a fresh, young campaign with a delicate touch. Bella, Gigi and Vittoria reflect the brand's proposed shabby chic aesthetic while paying homage to Fendi's DNA in an ultra feminine way.
Fendi's Peeakaboo, Dotcom and Strap You bags are given candy-coloured makeovers, further enhancing their status as must-have accessories for the summer season. Fun fur details transform these into the perfect companions for these contemporary Marie Antoinettes.
The intimate, romantic and magical atmosphere created is made current with the addition of an edgy, sporty twist. Classic, yet current and so very Fendi.
Invictus and Olympéa Intense: Paco Rabanne’s divine fragrances
Radical, free, avant-garde. These codes are at the core of Paco Rabanne both in fashion and scents. Invictus and Olympéa Intense are the ultimate unconventional and open to fantasy scents representing two exceptional figures that together create an explosive encounter.
Invictus is man in all his force, robustly pure and athletic. It plays on the shock between blazing amber woods and a marine “salty skin” accord, in a woody-fresh wake. Green-aromatic laurel leaf and orange blossom electrified by notes of black pepper are added to give an intensified, sensual effect. The bottle, dark and sculptural, represents what the Invictus man is all about: an infallible hero who never gives in, a God on earth.
Olympéa empowers women by taking sensuality up a notch. Salty vanilla wrapped up in cashmere wood is at the base of the scent enriched by a duel in which opposites attract. On one side a floral pulse given by white pepper, orange flower and grapefruit blossom. On the other, the warmth of white amber and cedar wood. A glass circular bottle in metal colors represents the perfect construction between geometrical strength and curves, embodying the sacred female of Olympéa, the divine queen.
Nike Air Max 97: the Silver side of Italians
As the homeland of prêt-à-porter, Italy has always introduced new ways of fashion appreciation that we've all emulated at some point or another. Nike's 'La Silver' sneaker has been, and remains to this day, a strong example of this very concept.
When this sneaker made its first appearance in the fashion market in 1997, it failed to capture the hearts of fashion-forward Italians. It was snubbed, regarded as ugly, weird, otherworldly even. For others, those were La Silver's winning characteristics, making this model the star of 20th century footwear trends in Italy.
For a decade, its ostentatious shine and sleek lines made it a staple in many young Italians' Christmas wish lists. As a symbol of Italian gabber dancing culture and futurism, this sneaker was offered in colour variations that never went unnoticed. It wasn't long before La Silver had snuck its way into the hearts and wardrobes of both fashion addicts and proponents of a more 'chav chic' aesthetic.
Straight out of its homeland, “La Silver” by Nike is back on the market after 20 years. This makes us wonder: is this a new icon for this generation or a mere throwback for those who were there from the start?
DIESEL creates ALRITE: the timeless watch that takes art to the street
To do good and in an innovative way has always been considered one of Diesel's mottos. This winter and in collaboration with Fossil, the Italian brand has undoubtedly hit its target with its latest project: the Diesel ALRITE timepieces.
Cut out from 150 square meters of original artwork by Rostarr, who collaborated in the design of this accessory, ALRITE is literally a work of art that endures the passage of time while paying homage to both art and Diesel’s DNA.
The 555 pieces that make up this Limited edition collection are completely unique and each different from one another, making for one-of-a-kind watches. This feeling of exclusivity is exactly what this hand-wrapped genuine leathers watch brings to the wearer by intertwining the aspects of time and timelessness.
Moreover Diesel ALRITE teams up with Sotheby’s to reinforce the message of not only bringing art back, but also doing so for a good cause. Three pieces from this unique collection will be auctioned via e-bay for charity. Funds will be donated to the Only The Brave Foundation that has been working with Diesel for many years to fight against social inequality and working on sustainable development across the world.
“Create products that draw the line between pragmatic and fashion forward” this mission has been definitely brought to life.
PIRELLI CALENDAR 2017: An Unfiltered Emotion
“In a time when women are represented in the media and everywhere else, as ambassadors of perfection and youth, I thought it was important to remind everyone that there is a different beauty”
‘Emotional’, the title chosen by Peter Lindbergh for the 2017 edition of the iconic Pirelli Calendar. No other word could strike such a chord in women’s hearts that, nowadays, find themselves fighting against unrealistic beauty standards imposed by society. Fighting to fit in a world in which all things beauty are accompanied by a certain degree of fakery.
Pirelli Calendars have always been seen as conveyors of a specific message of perfection that could be hardly afforded by us, mere mortals. Following Annie Leibovitz’s thread of last year, Lindbergh decided to let beloved actresses shine through their nakedness. Not a nakedness imposed by the lack of garments but by the absence of filters.
The choice of abstaining from Photoshop editing is indeed the leading theme of the 2017 Calendar, which includes actresses like Uma Thurman, Penelope Cruz, Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet and Julianne Moore in all their natural feminine splendor. The beauty that speaks about the courage of being yourself in your own sensibility.
Lindbergh’s message wants to reach all women who feel worthless, despicable, and inadequate in a way that only an artist of his caliber could achieve.
The TOUCH revolution by Replay
Rich and inviting fabrics, smoothness and stretch materials: the focal points of Replay's new disruptive jeans: TOUCH
The brand's revolutionary jeans promise to fulfill the needs of modern women by allowing them to feel comfortable, sexy and elegant in jeans that don't crease and are available in a selection of colors, washes and cuts.
The advertising campaign will feature supermodels Irina Shayk, Joan Smalls and Stella Maxwell personifying women going about their daily routines in order to highlight the practicality of Replay's TOUCH jeans range.
Hype moment: Supreme X The North Face
Supreme confirms its status as a hugely popular street wear apparel brand with the drop of Supreme's ever popular collaboration: Supreme x The North Face.
For the past ten years Supreme has been dubbed as 'the most hyped street wear pieces of all time' – and rightly so as the latest collection was sold out online in just under ten seconds.
Everything is about leafy camo, hi-vis orange, technically proficient and high performance pieces that create a balanced mix between style, quality and authenticity. The collection is made of cozy essentials for fall obtained by bold re-workings of TNF iconic garments in the perfect countercultural sprit of Supreme.
Representing the embodiment of the downtown culture, Supreme's rebellious New York skaters have a bomb in their hands that has definitely set off. Chapeau!
Prada presents 'Past Forward'
Miuccia Prada has teamed up with director David O. Russell to produce a cinematic poem that transcends logic and goes beyond traditional narratives and plots.
This futuristic silent dreamscape explores the nature of time through an intertwining series of scenarios, characters, costumes and genres that blend into each other. Viewers are left to decide on their own which parts of this amalgamation are memory, which are dream and which are real life.
The star-studded cast that includes, Freida Pinto, Allison Williams, Kuoth Wiel and John Krasinski among other recognisable figures, are dressed from head to toe in signature Prada outfits as they perform their roles in shifting combinations.
Much like in silent movies from the 30s music plays a pivotal part in the short film and infuses the moving images with tangible emotion. The absence of word also allows viewers to get completely immersed in the beautifully shot black and white scenes that unfold before one's eyes. Executed in a way that does not distract from the process of deciphering complex and nuanced meanings, Past Forward is much more than a silent fashion film. As O. Russell himself stated what is magical and strange about cinema is precisely what is so magical and strange about life – where beauty lives is entirely subjective to the individual.
The multi-platform film project premiered in Los Angeles on November 15th in the company of Prada's esteemed guests and is now available on the brand's official website.
Prada Resort 2017 Campaign
American actress Jessica Chastain features in the latest Prada campaign, shot in Milan by Willy Vanderperre. Captured around the Northern Italian city’s most memorable places, like the Civic Planetarium “Ulrico Hoepli” and the newly introduced Fondazione Prada, the images see Chastain dressed in Prada essentials. As Prada firstly goes through its own traditions, the new blend of textures and patterns make feminine and masculine fuse, seeing the brand explore a different venture.
Le Narcisse Blanc: pure Art de Vivre
Like a bright flower blossoming in the heart of Paris, Le Narcisse Blanc is a contemporary pleasure dome where guests can breathe the magic of the French capital.
Situated between the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides, this 5-star hotel and spa casts an incredible view to the Seine and the most majestic Parisian buildings from its bohemian terraces. Le Narcisse Blanc offers the proper Art de Vivre feeling through its cozy sitting rooms, luxurious spa with swimming pool, hydrotherapy massage jets and sauna and last but not least its 37 spacious bedrooms and suites in silky champagne tones.
Designed in luxurious and refreshing taste by "Laurent & Laurence", the hotel creates a perfect balance between Art Nouveau and Art Deco that are fused with contemporary elements, serving as an homage to the perfect Parisian lifestyle. Because, in the words of Victor Hugo “Respirez Paris, preserve l’âme”.
Louis Vuitton Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Women. Or like Nicolas Ghesquière likes to call them: Heroines. Powerful characters who conquer the scenes. Indisputable free and unique. Like Louis Vuitton’s ambassadresses – from Léa Seydoux to Alicia Vikander and Catherine Deneuve, Doona Bae, Michelle Williams – all present, attending the Spring Summer 2017 show. Nicolas Ghesquière delivered a collection of poignant femininity. An interest that he already expressed in the last Louis Vuitton book, the forth of the serie: “I like to see women walking, moving. To see how fabric falling in a certain way can enhance the body; the femininity that interests me is about energy and vitality”. Ghesquière woman is strong yet sinuous. Fluent dresses with midriff cutouts in jersey channelling that sensuous look, power boots as out of a manga heroine, or sheer gowns with padded shoulders hinting military epaulettes – fitting the Place Vendome scenic heritage, where the show took place. Generaless of conquest, witty, travelling – as rooted in Louis Vuitton’s spirit. “6 GIRLS 6 MINUTES”, the short film directed by M/M PARIS for Louis Vuitton just released to present the new collection gives a glimpse of that modern “Parisienne” attitude. A portrait of six different girls around the world in love with the French capital.
Céline Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
“All artists are alike. They dream of doing something that’s more social, more collaborative, and more real than art”. The words of Dan Graham resonate across the vision of Phoebe Philo for Céline Spring Summer 2017. The American artist, writer and architect created a spatial installation for the show, a work along the series of his “Pavilions”, where transparent partitions divide the space while enabling the view toward the world on the other side. Its sounds, the flaws. Céline collection for next Spring has a sophisticated urban vibe. It pictures a multitude of women as vast as the everyday city grain. The romantic overalls in mousseline peaking from pant suits. A practical cotton oversized shirt attached to a pleated skirt to form a midi dress. The unpredictable mismatched shoes. Different personalities. At a closer look the most incredible luxurious detailing emerge, as just we would expect from a fashion house like Céline: the perfectly balanced weight of a linen unstructured dress, the supple leather, the gentle unfinished look of raw hems. But they are clothes you can pick in a rush and wear with an effortless attitude. In some of the looks the styling is constructed to almost emulate that rush, with garments layered or tucked in each other as if there was no time to overthink. A smart woman who picks a timeless vintage bag preciously kept in the years. She walks through the harsh realm of everyday noise.
LOEWE Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The shore of an unidentified coast. Men swimming endlessly in a deep blue sea against oil barrels floating in the water. The unsettling vision of “Offshore”, the short video by Dutch artist Magali Reus, served as scenic element for Loewe Spring Summer 2017 show, giving that contemporary reference to a collection sophisticated yet sensual and fresh.
Jonathan Anderson created flowing silhouettes in black, off white, brown with a splash of fuchsia, blue, green, mixing a number of references from Japan to the Spanish heritage of the brand. Oversized long flared sleeves with leather waist cinchers as a revised contemporary version of a kimono obi belt. Long twirling dresses with bias cut, unfinished hems, the raw feeling of burlap, fringes and patchwork textiles masterly hinting to Spanish folklore.
The powerful broad collection of accessories with the most iconic bags of the brand declined in several new finishes and colours and accessories like the calla lilies on bracelets and ankles complete the luxurious atmosphere frame.
Anderson’s vision for Loewe is growing and becoming season after season more mature and daring, transforming in short time this label to a relevant player in the industry.
Scotch & Soda’s “Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam”
A map that’ll help you getting lost and explore the hidden greatness of Amsterdam: an innovative way to discover the places Google doesn’t suggest. Scotch & Soda presents the Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam, an newspaper-zine available in stores and the online app from mid-October. Visual artist Jan Rothuizen and journalist Fiona Hering roam around the city with well-known influencers in the creative fields music, fashion, business and art, the so-called “Misguiders”. For its first edition, the Misguiders five Amsterdam “un-tips” and further includes a redrawn and reimagined Amsterdam by Rothuizen and pictures of the Misguiders by photographer Mounir Raji. For its launch, Papersmith studio artist Mandy Smith created an origami garment made from the zine.
Adam Kakembo, CMO of Scotch & Soda, says: “Nowadays, we don’t go anywhere offline without fully exploring online first: then we know exactly what to expect when we get there. With the “The Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam” we want to spark curiosity and rediscover the forgotten art of personal discovery.”
Gucci Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Resurging against a tide of tepid good taste, it seems collectively we’ve been revelling with childish glee at the sheer unpredictability of Gucci’s new mood – an exercise in indulgence, ostentation and unbridled eccentricity. Of course, SS17 stands a season that was defined by its very volatility; fashion houses would fast-forward the commerce of their catwalk goods, while others would lie in wait in lieu of constant Creative Directors. In the wake of all this uncertainty, one thing was assured; Alessandro Michele would deliver a line-up to fawn over. And that he did, from the first look to the last. Candy colors collided in a charged kaleidoscope of powder pink and pea green, clipped tailored cuts topped by rose turbans, while separates eschewed all the fustiness of jacquard with the glitzy glaze of lurex. Frills spilled down ruffled bibs as aristocratic outlines reigned, from pigeon-breast blouses to ball gowns bolstered by mutton sleeves, arriving via the disco as decadent tradition took a trip for tinsel. All were stitched by the insignia that serves the signature of Gucci’s new sovereign, an eclectic embroidery of exotic animals, love hearts and sweet slogans, artfully patched across tulle smocks, fuzzy fun-fur coats and snakeskin hardware in an exuberant stream of consciousness. This is the doorway to the mind of a man with the imagination of a boy. Little of Michele’s world makes logical sense, but why live in the world when you can live in your head? We’re just thankful he invited us in.
Fendi Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
It’s a habit of Fendi’s to disorientate its audience of time and place, warping history’s resolvable symbols so they can no longer be defined by date, resigned to obsolescence as recognisable relics of the past. For SS17, heritage harbored a hint of the alienesque, as Marie Antoinette aprons abjured their impracticality in favor of terse technical cuts. Fine pencil stripes stalked slender peplum blouses, cinched at the waist and bolted with a highway of plump covered buttons from navel to neck. Patch pockets punctuated the breast, their sensibility softened by the buttery cuts of sloped shoulders, even the most straight-laced starched cotton evoking the ease of the neighbouring gauzy silks. Rugby hoop stripes sat thicker, banded across scarlet crop sweaters, slit with an anarchist’s mind for modesty in spite of the prim powder-pink A-lines which swayed beneath. Apron dresses made a break from diaphanous tulles and brief bloomers, V-necks slashed at right angles from shoulder to sternum, as hems vied for a deep diamond, centering from the hip in towards the knee. All this technicality circuited to the finer details of the collection, models pallid but for pithy metal pouts, hair parted at the center with strands seeping into wispy pig-tails at the crown. History may have repeated itself, but you wouldn’t necessarily know it, not with Lagerfeld at the helm.
Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Photographer David Sims has collaborated with Acne Studios on its latest Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign with three separate stories, which will be fully released during New York Fashion Week starting 5th September. Acne Studios’ Creative Director Jonny Johansson has long admired the work of Sims and envisioned the latest campaign to be a fashion story without boundaries incorporating David Sims’ classic take of fashion shoots and his ability to set a specific mood without a conventional narrative.
Acne Studios Emoji Collection
The latest capsule collection for Acne Studios embraces their playful side, as the garments are embellished with emojis. Classic staple pieces have been giving a slight twist by the quirky detailing of ordinary objects. Bananas, doughnuts and microphones are printed oversized on black and grey sweatshirts, while hot dogs are presented as a knitted pattern on sweaters and jersey t-shirts. Smaller accessories are a pig’s nose printed on the chest and square emoticons with thought bubbles. The collection is available now in store and online.
MARC O'POLO DENIM Campaign Fall/Winter 2016
The latest MARC O’POLO DENIM campaign presents a new and young generation, boosting with confidence, creativity and translates the brands’ DENIM collection in their own way. Bruce Weber’s pupil Sean Thomas knew how to accurately illustrate this generation, while stylist Ursina Gysi created the modern looks. Following on from the last campaign, shown at the heart of the images is the metropolitan climate of Paris – unconventional, natural and multicultural.
COS Autumn/Winter 2016
Ghanaian artist Lynette Yiadom Boakye’s paintings serve as inspiration in COS Autumn/Winter 2016 rich colour palette, which is made of dark navy, intense blue, ochre, burgundy and forest green.
For the women’s collection, COS has modified its classic structure, with an emphasis on exaggeration, through high turtlenecks, prolonged sleeves and oversized, wide trousers. Key for this collection is layering and blends of different materials, as a silk shirt is placed over a cotton skirt and a asymmetric scarf worn with a viscose-plated knitted top. Essential accessories this season is a leather shopper, which doubles as a clutch.
The colour palette and silhouettes for the men’s collection are inspired by Berlin-based artist Lev Khesin. Again, layering takes a primary role, as we see a padded technical vest combined with wool. COS has developed its pure tailoring to a softer silhouette. The brown oxford shoe, as well as the modernized leather sneaker are fundamental in this autumn collection.
"Watching Water" John Elliott SS17
A mirrored pool as runway, DJ Lee Bannon playing the soundtrack in collaboration with Boiler Room. At the SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ, John Elliott presents Spring Summer 2017 Watching Water, styled by Eugene Tong. Elliott says he has matured as a designer and so have his curiosities, one of them being understanding the idea of luxury. “One element of curiosity that was left untouched is the idea of understanding luxury. As a child, when I would think of what the idea of luxury is, I would envision the obvious status symbols – vacationing on an island, laying on a beach, or cruising on a yacht. For this season I took the literal approach of what you might need when you are Watching Water, and I let this idea infect me”. The collection blends smart and street wear, tailored trousers and bomber jackets, with a vibrant colour palette of crisp whites, cobalt blues and a range of greens. As Elliott expands his repertoire, he introduces bright eyewear and includes vintage Nike Aqua Socks on the runway for selected looks.
Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda Show FW16
A collection inspired by Italian actress Sophia Loren, Naples and tradition, Domenico Dolce reveals. The Dolce & Gabbana collection is shown on the streets in the middle of old Naples. A white satin cincture hung across the body, Miss Eleganza sewn in gold, a hint to how Ms. Loren first started out; in a provincial beauty contest. The collection includes shapely pencils skirts, wavy hems and fitted suits, all in true Dolce & Gabbana manner. The looks are completed with flower, heart and bow embellished headgear, and induced with some humor; one of the satin soccer shirts reads Maradona 10 on the back.
Fendi Haute Fourrure Collection Fall/Winter 2016/17
Legends and Fairy Tales are the main inspiration for Fendi’s Haute Fourrure Collection, as Karl Lagerfeld reveals; “I always take inspiration from what is in the air. But this time I especially took inspiration from some illustrations of legends and fairy tales, very romantic and modern at the same time. All the looks have something poetic, but in a very contemporary dimension”. A romantic colour palette of soft pink and whites along with light materials like silk and tulle symbolize a dream. The sunset is portrayed with shades of blue and knitted organza. Black, cashmere and fur portray the dark night sky. 600 hours of expert artisan skills were involved in creating the beautifully applied flower and feather embroideries, which illustrates the Maison’s creativity and expertise.
Calvin Klein Fall 2016 #mycalvins
All of the Calvin Klein brands; Calvin Klein Collection, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear are combined in the Fall 2016 campaign under its title “I ___ in#mycalvins. The short video and images are shot by photographer and filmmaker Tyrone Lebon, who also shot Calvin Klein’s Spring 2016 campaign. Casted for Fall 2016s campaign are talented actors, musicians, fashion role models and athletes, along with professional and street casted models. This includes songwriter and producer Frank Ocean, supermodel Kate Moss, fashion icon Grace Coddington, rapper Yung Lean and Real Madrid footballer James Rodriguez. The campaign feels personal and authentic because of the intimate conversations with the cast. “Through our Fall 2016 campaign, we push the boundaries of traditional advertising with our content and our cast,” reveals Melisa Goldie, Chief Marketing Officer of Calvin Klein, Inc. Launched today on its website, www.ck.com/mycalvins, you’ll find a selection of 50 videos with interviews of the cast, behind-the-scenes footage and more.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Jil Sander reveals the Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign starring Australian model Julia Nobis and up-and-coming model Jonas Gloër. Photographed by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, the shoot took place in Paris, city of couture fashion. Vanderperre portrays Jil Sander’s minimalist aesthetic beautifully in a series of striking images.
Giorgio Armani New Normal A/W 2016/17 Campaign
Giorgio Armani announces its New Normal Autumn/Winter 2016/17 advertising campaign, shot in black and white by Peter Lindbergh on the Plage du Touquet in France. Giorgio Armani New Normal focuses on today’s women, proposing classic, timeless garments. The series of natural images promotes the idea of a global, multi-faceted beauty and features models Liu Wen, Liya Kebede, Elisa Sednaoui and Amanda Murphy. “I wanted to show different types of beauty, without barriers – four young women who experience the present in their own ways”, thus revealing Giorgio Armani.
MBFW: Augustin Teboul S/S 2017
Accompanied by mellow music of a rock band with slow drums, a lingering bass and drawn out vocals, the presentation of the Augustin Teboul S/S 2017 collection is re-imagining mermaids as punk rock princesses at the Berlin Fashion Week. The models' hair is slightly wet and swept back, as it would be after a swim in the ocean. Torn leggings and fish net tights remind of mermaids caught in fishermen’s nets. Frilly applications on hats paired with round sunglasses look like bathing caps. Cut-outs, holes and slashed fabrics give the collection a certain edge, vibing off a careless attitude. A lot of exceptionally short mini skirts and dresses dominate the runway.
Sheer black shirts are worn over leather panties. Leather bodies with frills and mesh tutus remind of a punk rock princess style. A provocative touch is added by models wearing tiny crop tops or nothing at all underneath loose androgynous jackets. As always Augustin Teboul loves to display the dark and grungy side of fashion, and yet again does not stray from the label's favourite colour black, with only a bit of white, blue and red here and there. The black is paired with square patches and patterns of different kinds of sparkles, sequins and studs. There are sparkly scarves and sparkly socks in patent leather loafers – sparkles everywhere. The collection is the perfect androgynous combination of frazzle and dazzle, a glittering glory of grunge.
MBFW: Lala Berlin Spring 2017
Lala Berlin’s Spring 2017 collection, called Hypnotic Nights, is presented in the highest penthouse in Berlin, among an exclusive group of 200 invitees. The looks are energetic and vibrant, made of delicate silks and with elegant pleats. it’s colour palette a mix of red, orange combined with black, blue and brandy-coloured garments. The presentation saw Heike Makatasch en Laberenz at the turntable, opening up the dance floor for the guests. Leyla Piedayesh said that then she saw the view of Berlin for the first time, a completely new perspective stretched before her. “I was so touched, I didn’t want that feeling deprived from anyone.”
PITCH FESTIVAL 2016
The fifth edition of Pitch Festival will kick off this weekend at Cultuurpark Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam. The impressive line-up is suggesting it will be a fun two-days. Featured in our #50 issue, Canadian singer Grimes will be performing, as well as William Phillips, a.k.a. Tourist, alongside many more. For those not familiar, Tourist is an electronic musician and is co-writer of Grammy-winning Song of 2015 Stay with Me by Sam Smith.
To get a feeling of what PITCH is like, watch last year’s impression on our Facebook. Weekend and day tickets are available on www.pitchfestival.nl
Willow Smith for CHANEL Eyewear Fall 2016/17
As actress and singer, Willow Smith is the face of a new generation and has now been chosen as the face of the Fall/winter 2016/17 campaign for CHANEL eyewear. The images and short videos for the campaign are shot by Karl Lagerfeld, with a minimal black and white focus. Dressed with jewels from the Fall/Winter 2016/17 collection, Willow shows her bubbly personality for the new eyewear collection, which features optical designs and sunglasses.
PFW: JULIEN DAVID SPRING 2017
“This season I was inspired by the inertia of waves from sound to ocean and creative waves”, says Julien David on his Spring 2017 Menswear collection, taking its inspiration from comfortable tropic summer days in Japan. The colour palette includes pastel pinks, blue and green silks highlighting the infamous Hokusai print. Trousers and sleeves are printed with texts like ‘Wave Length’ and the layered styling, accessorizing jumpers with belts across at chest height, which gives the collection a grungy feel.
PFW: LOUIS VUITTON SPRING 2017
Going back to its blueprint and claiming its identity. In Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2017 collection, they return to the brand’s heritage, drawing inspiration from Africa in rich textiles and prints with a colour palette led in Savannah-bleached tones. We find a dose of London Punk in the garments, in the use of ‘dog-collars’, mohair and transparent rubbers. The collection has the characteristic elegance and expertise we’re used to from Louis Vuitton. Visual artist-duo Jake and Dinos Chapman have for the second time collaborated with Louis Vuitton by creating four animal-like prints, used on the mohair jumpers.
BALLY Men's Spring/Summer & Women's Resort 2017 Collection
Bally presents a sense of nostalgia in the spring/summer and women’s Resort 2017 collection. A retro sense and memories of disco platforms at the gym is what Karlheinz Weinberger’s photographs have captured. The juxtaposed reality of the 80s “Teen Wolf” (1985), Francis Ford Coppola’s “The Outsiders” looking to belong in this campaign. An edelweiss flower on a Western shirt and playful archive prints come to life. This is enriched with David Hicks bold colours on Japanese kimonos and leisure suits for everyday. Bally expresses the happy grunge and the MTV generation.
PFW: MAISON MARGIELA SPRING 2017
We enter a world where masculine fragility is not considered a weakness. The Maison Margiela Spring 2017 collection includes variations of the two-piece suit, exposed stitching creating a sleek finish and rounded coat shoulders. Crossings of shirts from contrasting fabrics are blended together, whilst also showing a mixture in colour palette; Sepia tones are shown next to technical shell tops and knits, which awaken an active elegance. The looks are completed with lace-up boots and square-toed loafers. Looking through its own archive, a selection of seven garments are recovered and included from collections between 1999 and 2005.
Antony Morato Film Premiere
Antony Morato, the contemporary, Italian fashion brand with international and cosmopolitan terms drew attention to the world of cinema. The brand has partnered with L'Uomo Vogue, the reliable source for men's fashion and lifestyle on the short film "We have to be courageous" presented in Milan which also participates on Fashion Film Festival Milano.
The 5-minute short film, produced by K48, tells of the growth of self-consciousness and the desire with a hedonistic expression representing even one's own identity. The conclusion of the film leaves a feeling of uncertainty back as it represents the change and the final separation of an already defined world. The appearance of the Don Giovanni is finally ready, almost as if he would say, "Here I am". The film is directed by Elisa Fuksas and the viewer can watch the exceptional performance of the lead actor Alessandro Roja.
The story approaches the Antony Morato campaign "I am who I am" on a vivid and lively way. The brand, founded by Lello Caldarelli sends a strong message and a claim, addressed to the contemporary man. Without risk of misunderstanding he realizes that he can understand and interpret his own freedom. This requirement is universal and shows more than ever that Antony Morato invites us to it.
MFW: VERSACE SPRING 2017
The Versace Spring 2017 show is opened with a short version of Bruce Weber’s advertising film for the brands Fall 2016 collection, shot during a four-day period with Donatella Versace in Chicago. This heavily influenced her latest collection, as she said ‘when we came back, we designed the collection in five days.’ Layering is key here; sweaters are tied around the waist, ankle-length parkas are paired with cycling shorts, but also throw over clean-cut suits. Donatella Versace paid homage to the late Prince by using one of his original songs, gifted to her by the singer, as soundtrack during the show as well as making an appearance at the end wearing an all-purple suit. Donatella loves changes, as she says: “I want to push Versace forwards, and capture the spirit of individuality and creativity in the men that I love.”
MFW: EMPORIO ARMANI SPRING 2017
The Emporio Armani Spring 2017 collection is sleek and sharp, with as main focus present-days meaning of the term identity. The collection envisions the idea of belonging, as some models walk down the runway in groups, whilst encouraging everyone to be themselves. The garments, embroidered and printed with digital imprints, are inspired by athletic attire but are made with fine fabrics. In pure Emporio Armani fashion, the collection stays true to its signature colour palette, including navy and denim blue and fir greens, alongside hints of orange, red and electric blue.
MFW: TOD'S SRING 2017
The Tod’s Spring 2017 collection is shown in a presentation, rather than a runway show. The models are situated in what looks like a resembled living room, enlarged photographs as wallpaper hung as if looking at a Tod’s inspired moodboard. Aesthetic of the collection feels sophisticated and casual. With a minimal colour palette we see tailored pieces, fine suits and its leather jackets brings a sharp edge. The looks are finished with brogues, sneakers and loafers. Tod’s has recently collaborated with French Graphic designer Jean Paul Gaude for his exhibition in Milan’s Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanae called “So Far So Goude.”
MFW: LES HOMMES SPRING 2017
Les Hommes Spring/Summer 2017 takes its inspiration from the Spanish Conquest of South America.
Belgian design duo Bart Vandebosch and Tom Notte have created a military wear collection with oversized shapes and fit, colour scheme fitting the military theme as mostly green, white and black are used. Models’ ears, noses and lips are pierced and footwear consists of mid-calf black stud-embellished sandals. The collection feels urban yet utilitarian, with golden and silver details in zips hinting to Mayan adornments as well as military elements.
Givenchy By Riccardo Tisci Spring 2017
The new Givenchy collection delves into three integrative styles. Introducing and exploring new phrase Skinhead Romantic, influenced by the 90s, the brand mixes pleated tulles and heavy boots. For the traditional Givenchy woman, the brand sticks to their signature style, including tied blouses and monochrome colours. In the urban, metropolitan women's lineup we see exploration of new volumes and silhouettes, blending couture and street style. Women's Denim has a small colour palette, limited to black, white and baby blue. Proposed is a new boyfriend's cut, as well as the brands' signature stars.
The menswear collection is based on the same styles. Men's denim suggests striped jersey layers and small gaps in its jeans and jackets, creating new textures. For the classic man, Riccardo Tisci kept his suits and jackets navy and black, with red accents. The urban side of the collection includes oversized parkas and nylon tracksuits looks. Bomber jackets, sweaters and coats are found in the Skinhead Romantic style, concluding the Givenchy Spring 2017 Pre-Collection. The photography for this campaign is executed by Max von Gumppenberg and Patrick Bienert.
Prada Men's Special Displays
Prada announces the opening of three special displays in stores in France and Italy, just before its Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 collection is scheduled to show this Sunday. The first part of the display will be situated in the Florence store in Via Tornabuoni, which will be exhibited until the 26th of June. A series of exclusive images, shot by art director Willy Vanderperre shows backstage stills from the Prada Uomo and Donna Autumn/Winter 2016 collections, combined as the dis-dressed project.
The Milan store in Monte Napoleone will take its inspiration from the digital age. Placed throughout the store will be LED screens, presenting images of the dis-dressed project and “Chronicle”, a short film exploring the parallels between architectural interventions and the Autumn/Winter 2016 collection.
Exhibited on the top floor of the Paris store in Faubourg Saint-Honoré will be a series of the Prada Uomo Autumn/Winter 2016 advertising campaign, with images featuring actor Eddie Redmayne, shot by photographer Craig McDean. This will be in store to view from the 22nd of June until the 8th of July.
LC:M Craig Green
London born Craig Green showed his first collection for LCM through Fashion East and Topman’s initiative MAN in 2013. Now, three years later he is an established name on the London Collection Men’s schedule and recent winner of the BFC Menswear Fund. The bold new collection opens with fawn colours, transitioning into quilted jackets with rich prints and closing with black and white garments. Cords tied through eyelets are detailing elements and the colour-blocking trend is beautifully incorporated. The Spring 2017 collection also exposes some flesh. A slit coming just above the knee on wide-legged trousers, as well as some backless pieces, gives the collection a sharp edge. Added in the collection is a Scout scarf, which Green describes as a ‘symbolism of belonging to something.’
MAN, the support scheme for emerging menswear designers, launched by non-profit initiative Fashion East and sponsored by TOPMAN, gave platform to three new designers this LCM season. First up is Swedish newcomer, Per Götesson, who showed his graduate collection at the Royal College of Art just the day before. Models are dressed in a functional and casual collection, primarily oversized denim jeans, accessorized with metal key-chains.
Second up in line is Feng Chen Wang. The collection has elements of the sporty trend coming through, with details like the string cord and the use of technical nylons. When speaking to Dazed about her inspiration for her functional, tied and connected collection, she explains to be inspired by how all her friends are connected.
Closing the MAN show is Charles Jeffrey. The runway is covered in roses and flower petals, where models walk down and show off the collection, blending club scene with the Elizabethan era. As founder of LOVERBOY, Jeffrey has gender fluidity as centre point in his establishments. This is present in this collection too, exposing new silhouettes and long, fake nails.
Marc Jacobs’ Resort Collection 2017
MTV logos and studs, bright pink colours and leopard prints. Leave it to Marc Jacobs to take you back to the 1980s in his Resort 2017 Collection. ‘‘We took Fall and made it kitsch and went from Youtube back to MTV’’, the designer, who won a CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award just yesterday, said after the show. Music track playing is of British popband Duran Duran and models were sporting scrunched hair and dark eye make-up, sticking to the overall feeling of 80s punk revival. The collection is loud, bold and feels retro and is refreshing since the 70s trend that has been dominating fashion and retailers over the last few years.
Helmut Newton exhibition at FOAM
Mark next Friday in your diaries, as you’ll be able to see and enjoy the wonderful work of legendary photographer Helmut Newton in FOAM. The German-Australian artist started working on his photography passion in the 1950s, but a career didn’t take off until 2 decades later when he started shooting for the French Vogue. As the 70s was a new age of female independence and freedom of sexual expression, Newton incorporated the independent woman in his work. He worked closely with designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and CHANEL’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld, who also strived towards a modern, empowered femme. The exhibition Helmut Newton – A Retrospective at the FOAM Photography Museum in Amsterdam will run from the 17th of June up until the 4th of September, an art-enthusiasts idea of a perfect summer.
Dior Cruise Ready-To-Wear 2017
Blenheim Palace in London is home of the Dior Cruise Ready-to-Wear 2017 collection, creatively led by designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux since Raf Simons' departure late last year. The brand chose to showcase in the UK partly because Dior has recently opened a flagship store on Bond Street.The collection is inspired by post-war attire of the upperclass and the idea of wanting to discover newness. We see silks with rich prints, knits and typically British tweeds walk down the fox-themed runway, with models wearing heavy eye shadow and slicked back hair. The foxes also recur on the garments as well as zebra stripes and giraffe prints. With accessories made from materials such as stones and dark wood, the collection feels very much influenced by nature. This is the third time Dior shows their collection at the Blenheim Palace, the first two times dating back to the 1950s.
CHANEL Métiers d'Art 2015/16 "Paris à Rome" Campaign
The Parisian elegance is perfectly combined with the Italian glamour in the Métiers d'Art "Paris in Rome" collection of the CHANEL House. The new collection is elegant and absolutely feminine, showing the unique savoir-faire of Métiers d'Art, in combination with the creativity of Karl Lagerfeld. The black and white silhouettes are playing with contrasts, combining the mules’ tip with leather or the extravagance of XXL metal jewelry with the simplicity of a knitted pullover. The tights have a masterfully made lace patchwork and the mules are in two colors, black and white; the characteristic colors of CHANEL. Sensual under a coat or leather dress or reluctant with a tweed suit, which is lined with a "filmstrip", these tights bring a flowing silk crepe dress shine or can be simple worn with a warm wool sweater or an organza- made blouse. Karl Lagerfeld works once again with the American actress Kristen Stewart in the advertising campaign. In plush ambience of a Parisian apartment Kristen Stewart embodies with her smoky eyes and red lipstick, a hot-blooded heroine, like an Italian black and white film.
The Métiers d'Art "Paris in Rome" collection also shows a new version of 2:55 handbag that is now available in ultra-soft calfskin. It is an elegant understatement variation in this "house icon", with a very Parisian charm of minimalist chic. This is an innovation that continues this wonderful history of luxury in perfect harmony with the Air du Temps.
amfAR's 22nd Cinema Against Aids Gala in Cannes
The 22nd annual Cinema Against AIDS gala in Antibes, France, raised more than $30 million for amfAR's AIDS research programs and the search for a cure. The undisputed highlight of the evening’s live auction was a stunning 18½ foot tall sculpture by Jeff Koons, titled Coloring Book which was sold for over $13 million. The star-studded black-tie event, held at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes, France, during the Cannes Film Festival, was presented by Harry Winston and Bold Films.
Event Chairs included amfAR Chairman Kenneth Cole, Harvey Weinstein, Jake Gyllenhaal, Carine Roitfeld, Isabella Rossellini, Frances McDormand, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and Abhishek Bachchan, Diane Kruger, John C. Reilly, Michel Litvak, amfAR Global Fundraising Chairman Milutin Gatsby, Len Blavatnik, Nayla Hayek, Remo Ruffini, and Vin Roberti.
Other guests in attendance, many of whom participated in the evening’s auction included: Antonio Banderas, Matt Bellamy, Andrea Bocelli, Adrien Brody, Marion Cotillard, Xavier Dolan, Lily Donaldson, Jourdan Dunn, Michael Fassbender, Tom Ford, David Gandy, Melissa George, Madalina Ghenea, Jake Gyllenhaal, Bella Hadid, Gigi Hadid, Lewis Hamilton, Eva Herzigova, Chanel Iman, Kendall Jenner, Harvey Keitel, Karlie Kloss, Zoe Kravitz, Karolina Kurkova, Adriana Lima, Eva Longoria, Sienna Miller, Petra Nemcova, Rita Ora, Barbara Palvin, Michelle Rodriguez, Irina Shayk, Paolo Sorrentino, Dita von Teese, Mario Testino, Robin Thicke, Chris Tucker, Alicia Vikander, Binx Walton, and Lindsey Wixson, among many others.
Some of the pieces auctioned was an outstanding work by one of the world’s best known artists, legendary Colombian painter and sculptor Fernando Botero. Bollywood star Aishwarya Rai Bachchan introduced an exquisite bespoke diamond necklace, designed exclusively for amfAR and Cinema Against AIDS by Harry Winston. A work by Banksy, the world’s most famous and mysterious street artist, was donated to the auction by Leonardo diCaprio from his private collection and sold for over $1 million
A stunning feature of the evening was a Black and White fashion show curated by longtime amfAR supporter Carine Roitfeld. The dazzling collection featured one-of-a-kind looks, half in black, half in white, from the world’s most celebrated fashion houses. Participating designers included Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Gucci, Prada, Céline, Balmain, Giorgio Armani, and Tom Ford, among others.
The unforgettable evening also featured live performances by internationally renowned musical acts. British pop sensation Charli XCX kicked off the evening. Mary J. Blige got the crowd on their feet with a performance of her classic hit “Family Affair.” The evening culminated in an electrifying performance by the rock band Imagine Dragons.
Drykorn Fall/Winter 2016
A touch of 60’s, 70’s and 80’s lays in the new men and women’s collection of Drykorn. The firm takes us a fashion trip back to the past with its new Fall/Winter Collection 2016. Inspired by the Detroit of the 70’s the men’s collection has large collars, broad lapels and flaps that come to the fore once again. Soft materials like velvet, corduroy and wool jerseys play an important role and emphasize the look of the natural, warm color shades like beige, cognac and rust. As an opposite pole to the unconventional ready-to-wear production, the focus of the collection lies on authenticity and heritage styles. Robust lambskin jackets, cut off raw denims and corduroy shirts cater for a solid work wear style. The collection focus on the silhouette and oversized jackets are combined with low crotch pleated pants. In the women’s collection Fall/Winter 2016 the highlight is the comeback of the bohemian chic with a focus on playful mix of colour, material and pattern. The ‘’Mod Look‘‘of the 60’s also celebrates a revival with mini dresses and skirts in leather in combination with high neck blouse and biker jacket. In terms of colours orange is the new black and delicate grey and pure white can be found in the classic patterns like glen check, herringbone or pinstripe. The ‘’Bad Taste Spirit‘‘of the 80’s comes to life again. Sportswear unites with glitter and it is paired with wild leopard patterns in indigo blue and dark green. Waist?high is the name of the game when it comes to military and skinny pants. Draperies, Victorian elements and little details cater for the romantic twist that is presented in velvet, lace and nappa leather establishing the ‘’Gothic’’ trend. DRYKORN represents premium processings and high quality materials. The Credo is: perfection of the nonchalance which is reflected in every production step.
Miron Zownir’s Shots Of The City Sidelines At Hamburg’s House Of Photography
The city has served an inexhaustible source of inspiration for many an artist, but few have managed to capture it quite like Miron Zownir, for all its raw impulses and capability of fostering superb loneliness amidst a sea of people. For over thirty years, Zownir has been baring a side of society some would rather not see, portraying the seemingly parallel worlds of outsiders – those resigned to the fringes of society for their idiosyncrasies, aberrant behaviour, or merely ceding to the so-called dark desires of the human psyche. And Zownir does not merely expose them; his subjects seem to forbear the flatness of the photograph, pervading every inch of the frame with an intensity of emotion, whether that be pain, passion, defiance or downright decadence. In black and white, his sidelined subjects are afforded the poignancy they deserve, proximately framed and charged with truth. Berlin, London and the cities of a post-communist Eastern Europe provided fertile ground for Zownir’s uncensored stare, but it is his spirited renderings of the seditious New York sidelines which form the focus of the Deichtorhallen Hamburg’s latest exhibition, SCHLES SILVERTHORNE ZOWNIR.
Curated by Ingo Taubhorn, the collection calls together three figureheads of their field, each of whom have overthrown our consciousness with their radical experience of an urban underworld; in the House of Photography, Ken Schles, Jeffrey Silverthorne and Miron Zownir express with remarkable richness the subcultures of the city, its delights and dangers offered up as equally delectable symptoms of a life well-lived, albeit, ever resigned to the shadows, until now….
SCHLES SILVERTHORNE ZOWNIR will be on display at the House of Photography, Deichtorhallen Hamburg, from May 5th – August 7th 2016.
BOSS Pre-Fall 2016
Rigorous, precise, focused. Natural, but abstract. Luxurious – and classic. With the Pre-Fall Lookbook 2016, Jason Wu has unveiled another cutting edge collection that comprises sophisticated looks with a modern and noiseless message. Whether it's with the slim coat, the A-line skirt or the pant, Wu re-engineers new classic into a contemporary wardrobe for the BOSS woman.
Business and leisure are balanced out equally, with a Hitchcockian flair contrasting the image of sportswear. As often, Wu is keen to incorporate a flair of menswear and does so in applying metal rings and fastenings, which simultaneously suggest a vibrant and energetic feel. Even if this collection is a red carpet for simplicity and urbanity, Wu still does not cease to go down a more lighthearted route and inserts floral patterns that in their assembly allude to camouflage.
The key element of functionality is furthermore not only highlighted in Bauhaus inspiration but also in flat shoes and other understated accessories. It's rigorous, it's precise, it's focused – BOSS just knows how to wrap a collection.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2016
Even though there were eclectic patterns, bright colors and even a glossy, red coat in it, the latest Valentino Fall collection is still a soft one. There just was a certain tender vibe to it that let the models shine in a calm light, presenting a collection that lends a hand to those run over by the fast pace of see now-buy now fashion. Even though there were these drop-out pieces, the collection is still defined by pastel tones, earthy and soothing colors and feminine, romantic silhouettes. There are poufy ballet skirts cut up into layers, floating dresses that hug the body like a comforting friend, and big collared coats that are very in line with this season's trend, but also a shield from its hasting characteristics. On its beginning, the collection nevertheless voices some harsh tones, with black looks and loose outlines creating a mysterious atmosphere. Luckily, the calm tone keeps the lead for the rest of the collection. Face it, we all need some down-time from fashion's headspin once in a while. How good to know that Valentino is here for us.
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016
A trip inside the mind of Karl Lagerfeld must feel like an hourlong guided tour through the world's biggest museum. His creative mind, or the ones behind it, is like an infinite archive with multiple crossings, shortcuts and junctions. Therefore, it is no surprise that even after decades, the maestro still finds a way to put a spin on the very, very classic brand that is CHANEL. Still, a CHANEL presentation these days sometimes holds more surprise in the setting than in the fashion on display. This time, though, Lagerfeld stepped away from themes and backdrops and onto the “real” runway. On there, he showed classic CHANEL elements, from tweed-tops to tartan trousers, and one everlasting classic accessory: the impeccable, traditional CHANEL pearl necklace, worn in multiple layers on numerous looks. Topped off with a French twist on a bowler hat, it's maybe the accessories that deem this collection contemporary. However, the choice of colors also checks off everything that is on the line for this season: starting off with shades and combos of pink, the collection then moves onto dark blues and greys, to a range of beige and nude tones, only to end with a – what else- classic rendition of black-and-white looks. That trip to Lagerfeld's mind really must be quite the voyage. Where do we sign up?
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2016
When a Creative Director departs his position at a well renowned fashion house, there is a certain fear that lingers in the air prior the presentation of the first collection without him/her. This was most likely the case at Lanvin's latest fashion show, where the gathering crowd seemed to hold their breath before the first foot was set on the runway. It was the debut reveal since the leaving of Alber Elbaz and certainly marked the start onto new paths and into new directions. These are led by a collective of designers that for the time being has taken over the seat left by Elbaz. What they presented was a collection defined by symbolic elegance, embodied by high-necked garments alluding to ruffled blouses of past eras and a broad spectrum of cuts and fabrics, ranging from 80s-cut, asymmetric shimmer tops to sheer, double layered lavender dresses. There are a handful of paths Lanvin could set upon, for this collection has no distinctive one to itself. There were ruffle-inserted dresses with floral print patterns, but also beaming golden trench coats and lacy ensembles. It seems almost as if the customer herself could select the direction of Lanvin - which prompts us to ask: what choice would you make?
Looking for Marni: Eyewear Presentation
For its latest eyewear presentation, Italian label Marni stepped up its game. Their showcase “Looking For Marni” was not just a presentation, not just an exhibition or event: it was a theatrical demonstration, an intimate performance piece that highlights the famous links between art and fashion design. As Marni says, a brand is defined by its actions and not just the aesthetic it creates. Thus, the Italian house took its creative atmosphere to the stage and unveiled their showpiece at the Padiglione Visconti, a singular industrial space that is currently being used as a rehearsal atelier by the La Scala Theater. The theatrical spirit easily transferred itself onto Marni's presentation: a cast of dancers is presented with a variety of props, ranging from oversized tables and chairs to a raised stage – that is, if the performers are not dangling from the ceiling. The theater piece was conceived in collaboration with Susanna Beltrami and her dance company and has a duration of 90 minutes. Marni's aim is not solely to entertain, but also blend the lines between performer and spectator. Looking For Marni is both a theatrical and real-life experience. Poetic feelings ignite in between the performance and its viewers, bringing to life the incomparable, eclectic Marni spirit. Come to think of it, it's hard to think this presentation was only about eyewear, after all.
photos: D. Lovati
Draw the Curtain: Monsieur Hotel Paris
When booking a stay in a nice hotel, who doesn’t feel like taking up a new identity? We’re thinking more role-play than secret service. Doesn’t a hotel stay feel like of taking part in a play? The lobby your stage, the room the backstage area? The Monsieur Hotel in Paris certainly has this idea in mind. Situated in the heart of the Rive Gauche, it is surrounded by a range of theatres, from the Mathurins to the Olympia just the throw of a stone away. The hotel’s character and design were highly inspired by the French playwright Sacha Guitry, whose spirit is set to “live on” in the hotel's 29 rooms and two suites. Maybe Guitry was also inspiration to the name, but the “Monsieur” naturally doesn’t only welcome male guests. In fact, the rooms are individually designed to make it appealing for both of the sexes. Draw the velvet curtain in the “Front Rows” or sleep heavenly in the “Gods” rooms. Whatever role you take on, we’re sure that your stay at the “Monsieur” will earn you a whole lot of applause.
Etro Fall/Winter 2016
On Friday, February 26th, models stepped out on Etro’s flower carpet to impress. Floating over the red-and-brown floor decor, they sported the latest Fall/Winter designs, which were a true reference to Etro’s signature looks. It was not only the carpet that alluded to flora, but so did the garments. Mixed with Etro’s typically tribal and Aztec patterns, they composed a true and traditional collection while staying focused on new twists. For instance, there was this season’s it-item in outerwear, the floor-length coat, there were shiny velvet jackets, there were even Scottish-looking checks. Etro is back on track and leading it at the same time, with new ideas quite literally revolutionizing tradition. It is in in moments like these that one is completely satisfied with getting what was expected – because it just made everything even better.
Costume National Fall/Winter 2016
Cool, cooler, Costume National. With the latest Fall/Winter collection, the label presented designs that spread the perfect interaction of casualty and precise tailoring. Effortlessly cool looks dominated the runway at Milan Fashion Week, formed by loose silhouettes and descending pleats and ruffles. The go-to item this season is the coat, and at Costume National, it comes in various shapes and styles. Whether it’s the short-and-slouchy version, the flower-embellished overcoat or the green trench: with Costume National’s Fall/Winter range, you’re covered on the coat side. Below the outerwear, ladies can sport oversize blouses combined with tailored blazers and pleated knee-high boots. Look for something more fancy? Go for the all-red velvet ensemble or the full-on print combination. You don’t need to worry, anyway. With Costume National, you’re cool; you’re dressed for success. Always.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
JOSEPH F/W 16/17
For season Fall/Winter 16/17, JOSEPH went in for the big game. Big hair, big silhouette, accumulated in a look that is as eclectic as a freely assembled art exhibition. Freedom, in both the inspirational and creative way, is a base to the latest designs. Motifs incorporating the nostalgic idea of freedom, such as a hand, an eye and a bird, are knitted into sweaters. This season for JOSEPH means badge, patch and collect: applications are randomly sewn onto the pieces, bringing to life the unique personality that is envisioned by this collection. JOSEPH wants to highlight an anti-conformist look that each wearer can assemble in a puzzle manner. Therefore, leather corsets are fastened over shearling jackets, British jacquards are cut on the reverse to expose floating thread and trousers are laced up, buttons intentionally mismatched. This season, JOSEPH went in for the big game, and whatever you make out of it for yourself: the big entrance is all yours.
Calvin Klein Fall 2016
While in recent days, Calvin Klein’s strategy revolved strongly around their celebrity-studded “mycalvins” campaign, at their NYFW fashion show, it was back to business instead of bras. On the runway, creative director Francisco Costa presented a mixture of sleek, precise looks and loose silhouettes. The classic suit for the Calvin Klein lady is reinvented through the ever-present crossover with menswear influences. Nevertheless, Costa puts emphasis on urban eroticism in form of light and sultry shift dresses with deep v-necks and unraveled hems. Besides that, proportions undergo distortion, with broad shoulder cuts contrasting slim waists. Next to its urban sexiness, this collection has seriousness to it, with dark tones leading the color palette and faux fur collars, lynx and skunk prints adding a grown-up feel. In the eyes of Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein accumulates both luxury and wilderness, and they certainly melt together in inserted stones and geodes, adding an unexpected twist to numerous dresses. Naturally, famous faces lined the front row at this presentation, but with a collection this convincing, the center of attention is nothing but the dress.
Hood by Air RTW Fall 2016
If you’re looking to find Hood by Air’s latest Fall/Winter designs, have a look at the baggage claim at your local airport. At New York Fashion Week, models found their runway turned into a baggage band when their garments were adorned with tags usually tied to suitcases at the drop-off. Another top featured the suitcase plastic wraps also formerly known from the departure area, only this time turned into a bold fashion statement. To be fair, these references were the only ones alluding to flight traffic. If not for the title, Hood by Air’s collection is more a political art statement than Ready-to-wear fashion. Designer Shayne Oliver once again crossed gender borders, made shapes and classic cuts irrelevant and boots, either oversized or shiny and red, the center of footwear. Hood by Air’s latest designs are refreshingly rebellious and creative in a surrounding where rebellion often means changing the direction of a seam. Needless to say, if we found the collection at the baggage claim, there’s no way we would return it to the lost-and-found office.
Alexander Wang RTW F/W 2016
St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February: Marijuana leaves, pole dancers and chained leather are assembled in the church aisles. Coming from every angle are words like “strict”, “tender”, “girls”, “faded” and “violator”. This scenery is by far no church service, but the presentation of Alexander Wang’s latest Fall/Winter designs. Displaying garments anything but holy, the designer sent down the runway rebellious garments that set upon the popular “sloganeering”. Hats, sweatshirts, dresses and tights call out the aforementioned key words in this collection, crossing over both mens – and womenswear. Going along with that are fuzzy sweaters as much as see-through tops and dresses and more classic tweed ensembles. Still, Wang takes on a little bit of Prep with reinvented Argyle sweaters (with exposing parts, of course) and a checkered coat in menswear. Although we’re not sure what the priest would say about this, in St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February, the applause spoke for itself.
Wind and Rain: Woolrich S/S 2016
With their latest campaign, Woolrich is set. Set for wind, set for rain, set for almost every weather change the Spring/Summer season can hold. Shot by artistic photographer Paolo Ventura, the visuals take the models through a climate change that is displayed by fake painted panels. They pose clad in the latest Woolrich designs, showcasing both mens – and womenswear. For his now fourth collaboration with the brand, Paolo Ventura chose to narrate stories within each picture, equipping the models with accessories that are not part of the collection. At first glance, the fishing rod, helmet or binoculars may be startling, but they do inspire the viewer to enhance the pictures with stories in mind. The fashion designs meanwhile range from light quilted jackets to dark trench coats in womenswear and elegant anoraks and vests in menswear. Woolrich presents itself summery – but also weatherproof. And that, in fact, is not a wild fashion imagination. Even though the campaign might show fake climates, Woolrich takes the Spring/Summer season as few do: realistic.
FEIT’s Man vs. Machine
On the left: thousands of rattling wheels set off sparks. Every move is programmed; every step repeats itself. On the right: a needle is slowly plunged into leather, pulling through a thread as if in slow motion. Man Vs. Machine, shoe brand FEIST’s new film endeavor, sets against each other fast-paced fabrication and traditional craftsmanship. Produced by Benjamin Millepied and directed by New York filmmaker Jack Riccobono, the movie splits the screen into two scenes, one showing the frantic processes of machine fabrication while the other displays dedicated, handmade manufacturing. The intention behind the clip is to highlight the rhythm, skill and artistry of crafting shoes by hand. In a world where the footwear industry is a billion dollar business with production numbers increasing every year, FEIT is ready to make a difference. Premiered at the New Museum New York, the movie relies on FEIST-founder Tull Price’s new belief of luxury: according to him, real luxury lies in responsibility and taking a stand rather than giving in to needless excess. Man Vs. Machine highlights this once more when at the end, the craftsman presents his finished work: a handmade boot shining in all its glory. Underlined with a fine classical music composition, the moment of reveal seems almost angelic. We’d say the score is pretty obvious: Man Vs. Machine, 1:0.
“Man Vs. Machine” was premiered at the New Museum New York along with a live presentation of manufacturing and the presentation of FEIT’s F/W 16 collection.
SIKI IM F/W 2016
For their latest F/W collection, label SIKI IM dug deep. Very deep. Deep in thoughts, deep in spirits, deep into philosohpy. Numerous questions lie beneath their latest designs, such as the evaluation of monsters and vampires. Is death the end? According to SIKI IM, it is certainly not. Our fear of being alone, fear of rejection, yes, in the end, the fear of our very selves is also a part of the thought-out inspiration to the IM 2016/17 collection. Naturally, these objections transfer themselves onto the clothing. A color palette of black, oxblood and aubergine draws a very clear allusion to mythic, spiked-teeth creatures. Fabrics from Italy are textured and rich, meaning luxurious cashmere (this season's material No. 1) and pants, woolen car-coats and blazers are combined with architectural leather in a variety of shapes. Furry tops and bottoms are not only monstrous in a good way but also functional for a cold winter. Along with the new designs, SIKI IM also showcases its extension line DEN IM. The prints featured in this collection were inspired by the German art and architecture school Bauhaus and the eponymous post-punk band. Linking both collections, images from Im's favorite Vampire movies were also printed on various garments. In the end, who isn't fascinated by it? The mysterious, the mythical, the dangerous, the tragic? We all have it in us. Just a matter of time until the night will let it out.
CTM Festival in Berlin
This week sees the midpoint of Berlin’s CTM festival, an international event for “Adventurous Music and Related Visual Arts”. This extensive title works quite well as an all-round description of what the 8-day festival has in store. The programme will line up performances by artists such as rapper Le1f, performing Thursday night, next to exhibitions, concerts and a discourse programme. 2016 already presents the 17th edition of the festival, which carries a new theme with each edition. This year, “New Geographies” is set to explore the collapsing borders and changing topographies in our world. Blurring lines in worlds such as gender and ethnicity, globalization and physically bound cultural identities find examination through the works of artists, special projects, commissioned works, lecturers and contributors. Dance or discuss the night away in Berlin this week – always on the verge of change. Sounds exciting, doesn’t it?
Residences by Armani/Casa in Miami
There are a lot of people in the world who love to wear Armani, but who actually gets to LIVE Armani? This round goes to Miami residents. Here, the fashion brand is building an apartment complex in cooperation with Casa Design, Dezer Development and the Related Group. 308 flats are being built on 60 stories, forming a tower designed by well-known architect César Pelli. Inside, the design solutions made by Armani/Casa Design Studio represent the Art Deco heritage of Miami and try to emulate its stellar and exclusive spirit. One central element in the works of the designs was the curved line. Its aim is to lead the viewer’s eye to the azure ocean and can even be detected in the design of the furniture. Apart from these very tastefully designed apartments, the complex will inhabit a, say, “distinguished” assortment of rooms on the ground and first floor, consisting of bar, private rooms, spa, gym, kids room, cigar room, wine room, game room and theater. While it may dawn upon the one or other what these seaside-escapes cost, there is no need for despair. As part of the sales area, the team has created a „show flat“ to give visitors an insight into the luxurious apartments. You know what they say, mi casa es tu casa.
Santoni's "My Santoni Colours"
Sure thing, we all have our personal style, but what if we could express it even more through our footwear? While the personalisation of sneakers may seem a bit outdated, such a service hardly ever has been seen in the luxury shoe segment. Italian shoe brand Santoni jumped at the opportunity and now offers their digital clientele the “My Santoni Colours” service. The customisation technique is based around the brand's beloved “Carter” model with its unique buckle and handmade production. Customers will have the chance to personalise their footwear choosing from a range of 16 colors with 500 possible combinations (you do the math!). If that is not enough, the owner's initials can be carved into the sole of the shoe as well. Talk about hidden secrets! Once the choice has been made in 3 easy steps, the shoe is ready to order and delivered within four weeks. Now, there is only one step to overcome: telling all your friends that this model is not available on the high street.
ETRO's Circle Of Poets
A poet by no means always has to be a lyricist. In a way, every form of art can depicted as poetry. Italian fashion label ETRO has therefore introduced their new project “The Circle Of Poets”, which sees artists from painters to filmmakers unite for a unique artistic exchange. As ETRO itself defines art as the very heart of the brand, it is with no surprise that the project includes an exhibition space for artists on the ETRO website. Although there is a selected circle of eleven elite “poets”, this art space is not an exclusive area for them. With the call-to-action “Are You A Poet?”, ETRO offers artists from around the world the chance to feature their works in an exciting collaboration, possibly even in local events and exhibitions. “The world within the circle spreads to meet other circles”, ETRO tells us, “now close your eyes and tell us what you can see”. Will do. Are You A Poet?
Calvin Klein #mycalvins SS16
With just one campaign, Calvin Klein has gone quite monumental. The new strategy is not just another advertising campaign, it’s a sweeping blow that endorses fashion, pop culture, music and – surprisingly - street life. To visualize the idea of a global campaign that establishes a new philosophy of participation and creation, the brand tapped photographer Tyrone Lebon, who shot the campaign in collaboration with his father, his brother and Klein cooperator David Sims. Even more striking than this creative team is the class of millennial celebrities that lend their faces to the campaign: Justin Bieber, Kendall Jenner, FKA twigs, Kendrick Lamar, Fetty Wap, Saskia de Brauw, to only name a few. Again, Calvin Klein sweeps in musicians, models, artists, but also – and that’s for the street life element – street cast models. Each shot is completed by the line “I _____ in #mycalvins”, obviously aiming at a social-media driven participation in the campaign. One step ahead, Calvin Klein also added a Spotify profile to supply fans of both brand and campaign with playlists and interactive content. And with a package this complete, we really can’t help it. We’re swept away, too.
Baldessarini F/W 16/17
Baldessarini caters to the confident man about town, providing him with classic and elegant wardrobe staples rather than trendy throwaways. Key to success are craftsmanship and high-end materials, combined with a sustainable production centered in Europe. By no means is Baldessarini’s FW 16/17 collection old-fashioned though: Yes, designs are predictably dapper. Why would you change a running system? Here and there, noticeably younger items turned the collection on it’s ear: rough leather pants, sheepskin jackets, sweats with smart jackets and ties all carried a youthful vibe onto that runway. Aside from sweaters, turtlenecks were big, worn under crisp button-downs or suits. For one-stop shoppers, the label offers a complete range including scarfs, gauntlets and hats. Stripes and checks livened up an otherwise muted color palette of black, grey, blue, green, oxblood and beige, adding some well-received youthfulness to Baldessarini’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin debut.
Vladimir Karaleev Fall/Winter 16/17
For his first show during MBFWB since July 2014, Vladimir Karaleev hit a high note with his intricate construction and easy breezy styling. His expertly crafted, sculptural designs were set in a presentation rather than a runway show – a no-brainer considering Karaleev’s pieces are more of an art installation than a nod to fast fashion. His FW 16/17 designs combine touches of cubism, mod-style and origami, resulting in exciting plays on volume, fabrics, and personal style. Each piece is in itself glorious and intriguing, yet full of possibilities in terms of combination. Grey, black, midnight blue and petrol, deep magenta, mauve and mustard could easily be overwhelming, yet Vladimir Karaleev has nuance and the masterful eye of an artist. Here’s to hoping he won’t hold out on us for another season or two.
Louis Vuitton's Time Travel: F/W 2016/17
Presented at the Parc André Citroën, Louis Vuitton revealed the Men's Fall/Winter collection as a ride with a time machine. With his seventh collection for the label, Men's Artistic Director Kim Jones once again dug into the archive of Vuitton and found inspiration from 162 years of brand history. Intertwined with the latest trends from today, he created a “new heritage”, a conversation between past and present. The past starts in the era of Art Déco, of the Dandy and aesthetics shaping the image of Paris. Naturally, the inspiration from the present is drawn from today. This dialogue between now and then finds support in an exclusive art display by Japanese artist Shinji Ohmaki, titled “Liminal Air Space-Time”. A floating piece of fabric is set to underline the flow of time and to raise the viewer's attention to the dimensions of time and space. Additionally, the designs are also inspired by men of the past, who were originators of style even back then. Among these is Alexis Von Rosenberg, the Baron de Redé, who inspired jewellery pieces that riff on the edges of Dandy style. Kim Jones also extends this collection as a continuation of other Vuitton projects: a ribbon motif sketches out the words “Volez Voguez Voyagez” as a wink to the recent same-titled travel exhibition. Dandys, Art Déco and a flowing piece of art? To us, Louis Vuitton's time machine seems like a pretty exciting ride.
Laurèl FW 16/17
Congratulations are in order: designer Elisabeth Schwaiger celebrates her 20th anniversary with Laurèl and has all of 40 collections under her belt. The occasion translated into a throwback to the label’s core and a bright look ahead. “Say my name” is the tagline for the FW16/17 pieces with empowering garbs that bring out each woman’s personality. Schwaiger celebrates the modern woman as cool, calm and collected, as seen in an all white ensemble of turtleneck and pants, adorned with a leather vest or a number of velvet evening gowns straight from the Laurèl archives. Ultimate highlight? A formation of 4 models dressed in short mohair sweaters with names woven onto the back: Christy, Amber, Stella, Diane – credit where credit is due.
“The Stig” Vernissage In Munich
Friday, January 22nd, combined car and camera: ZOO’s Bryan Adams and Sandor Lubbe attended the opening of the vernissage “The Stig” at the Jaguar Land Rover Store at Odeonsplatz in Munich, Germany. The photos displayed are an extension to the exclusive editorial shot by Bryan Adams and art directed by Sandor Lubbe for our current issue No. 49. In reminiscence of the TV cult series “Top Gear”, the editorial was called “The Stig” after the mysterious series character. It visually combines high fashion with quality cars, presenting the model in a face-covering bodysuit by A.F. Vandervorst as well as the Jaguar XF. For the Munich vernissage, the photo shoot even came “alive”. Model Anna Meyer starred as the evening’s “Stig”, again referring to the pictures by posing in a full-on bodysuit. The free exhibition will be on display until February 21st, open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm and Sun 11am-4pm.
Les Hommes F/W 2016 Collection
The men at Les Hommes are “born to be wild”. We hope that now, you have that road trip suggesting tune in your ear and imagine yourself on a roaring motorcycle. Seemingly, that’s what Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch did. Their latest Les Hommes collection is a road trip on the back of a motorbike – with a gang of friends, a group of fellow bikers, all there to support. With these bikers as major inspiration, Les Hommes undergoes a journey from urban surroundings to the final destination of the African continent. Eventually, this also transfers onto the looks. Menswear classics from the world of motorcycles like performance fabric pants, perfecto and biker jackets and studded shirts mark the start of this on the go collection. They develop into colorful, almost pop looks with multi-material 3D geometries and a hint of couture inspiration. As the bikers reach Africa, the layering of Central Africa costumes comes through in layers of wools and oversize scarves. Accessories on the other hand stay simple: we travel without bags, only wearing studded gloves and bandanas. Ready for the ride? Hop on!
Dior Spring/Summer 16 Campaign
In fashion, time has no meaning. It is as swinging as a pendulum and as shifting as the arms of a clock. Therefore, the current releases of Fall/Winter collections go along with the releases for Spring/Summer campaigns. Get over the bizarre and focus on the facts: Dior has released their new Spring/Summer campaign. Typically charming and light-hearted, with these visuals, Dior stays soft and romantic. Dresses are equally airy or delicately pleated. Contrasting to that are black blazers conveying a serious attitude. In terms of delicacy, one has to have a look at the accessories: grosgrain necklaces are embellished with an “8” pendant that throws it back to the first Dior show in 1947. Less retro-reminiscence is found in the Diorever and Diorama bags, which remind of architectural lines and an innovative level of design. It might be time to reveal both Fall collections and Spring campaigns, but after campaigns like this one, we’re asking ourselves: Spring, why are you taking so long?
LOEWE’s Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
“A redefinition of normality in classics” – Jonathan Anderson finds poetic words for the new LOEWE collection. His latest designs, revealed on Friday, January 22nd, are preceded by the corresponding advertising campaign. Model Jackson Wakefield is shot against another rather artistic backdrop: a sculpture by Paris artist M/M combines rugged rock-like formations with iridescent sections, which is set to reflect the character of the Fall/Winter collection. Wakefield poses in a blue overcoat with an eccentric piece of headwear. Redefinition of normality, it seems. To highlight the closeness to real “normality”, the campaign was distributed to 510 kiosks across all Paris as well as a billboard outside of LOEWE’s design studio at 76 rue Bonaparte. So, if you pop out in Paris to maybe catch the latest newspaper, an edition of ZOO or just a quick coffee, keep your eyes peeled for the new LOEWE campaign. Your idea of normality might just be redefined.
Versace Men F/W 2016
Versace certainly isn’t only known but also loved for their eccentricity. For decades, the creative minds behind the brand have proved to be unlimited in their creative innovation. With the latest menswear collection, introduced at Milan’s Men Fashion Week, Creative Director Donatella Versace presented yet another take on their anything-but-quiet attitude. For the latest designs, the Italian brand shot off into space. It’s Versace-on-the-mars with futuristic metallic looks, astronaut-inspired sweatshirts and astrological prints. Additionally, the collection features all that is in style on planet earth right now: tracksuits, MA-1 jackets, cropped leather jackets and, of course, just the right amount of denim. “The Versace man is a pioneer, his ambition as big as the universe. This is a collection for men who are totally real, totally bold and totally connected with the future.”, Donatella Versace commented. Houston, we don’t see a problem here!
Antonio Marras F/W16 Collection
Cowboys, Indians, gold prospectors, saloon girls. Tumbleweeds, dusty roads, no life in sight, apart from a few wild horses, lizards and the occasional mosquito buzzing near your ear. We’re thinking of the Wild West, thinking of Colorado, maybe, or some nameless town in the outskirts of the US. We’re wrong. Antonio Marras has taken the latest collection to the West, but it’s not western at all: the location in mind is in Sardinia. Illustrating the picture of a rural ghost town, the brand reinvented the motif of the Wild West by dislocating it to the Italian south. Inspired by this abandoned place in Sardinia, the designs feature a new take on the cowboy look with mélange sweaters, plaid trousers and a lot of checks. Intarsia shirts and velvet trousers dislocate the traditional idea of Wild West as much as the actual location. They are teamed up with patchwork jeans or denim overalls, biker jackets or floral jacquard fabrics. Colors range from moss, forest and military greens to red and mustard, forming an eclectic mix for a collection that can’t possibly be narrowed down to one definition. There is no need for definition, though, as we know, that with a Wild West in Sardinia, the things are not what we define them as anyway. Open your mind to new definitions. Antonio Marras certainly does.
Marni Men Fall/Winter 2016
Marni’s Fall/Winter 2016 is a swift motion between balanced elegance and subtle rebellions against clothing classics. On one hand, the brand presents soft and elegant silhouettes and suggests intimacy with this collection’s number one theme: wrapping. On the other hand, raw cuts also convey strength. Suits are still precisely tailored and the use of fur provides some texture. Never judge a book by its cover, and never judge a fashion collection by the first impression. Caps and sneakers that contradict the elegance of the garments make another break in balance. The collection’s color palette adds in elegance and subtleness with blues, greens, burgundy, ochre and light blue. We told you it was a swift movement. And with Marni, you just go along easily.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Emporio Armani gets it moving: the images for their latest SS16 campaign are in, and they are anything but static. Captured by Lachlan Bailey in the buzzing streets of Barcelona, models Luna Bijl and Filip Hrivnak are shown in physically demanding poses, posing as the fierce, self-confident woman or the ever-charismatic gentleman. Bailey used a telephoto lens, usually known from nature photography, to capture the spontaneity and dynamism even more. The visuals convey a message of utter coolness and suggest that for Emporio Armani, the most thrilling summer lies ahead. The general look is a classic take on minimalist coolness, but some garments with graphic elements stir up the sophistication with a little irony. And for those who adore the Emporio Armani accessories, the campaign also has watches and eyewear in store. Now, if January makes you feel drained and moody right now, just look ahead to a dynamic summer – Emporio Armani will show you how.
Burberry at London Collections: Bowie Tribute
Burberry’s London Collections: Men show didn’t only include their latest designs in menswear, but transformed into probably the fastest tribute to the death of David Bowie. Coincidentally, the day of Burberry’s presentation had also been the day of Bowie’s passing. Models presented the garments with glitter on their face and Bowie’s name scribbled across their hands. With 2016 being the year Burberry announced as the unison of its three lines London, Brit and Prorsum, Christopher Bailey and his team went through the archive and got inspired by multiple eras from the late 19th century to the 1970s. This collection’s lovechild was the track top, worn either as outerwear or layered under typical Burberry coats. Colors were as varied as ever, ranging from warm moss greens to neon reds. Of course, with Burberry always being one of the most anticipated labels to present at LC:M, Bailey didn’t disappoint and joined this season’s train of military inspiration. And with a portfolio that diverse, there is no doubt that Mr. Bowie up in heaven would have been proud.
Photos: Marcus Tond/indigitalimages.com
Nasir Mazhar FW 2016
There are few things as fascinating and endless as the darkness. Its space of interpretation appears to be as vast as the darkness itself. Inevitably, the inspiration drawn from the dark is equally as tremendous. London designer Nasir Mazhar took this as a chance to dive into the deep and uncertain – and returns with his FW 2016 collection. His latest designs imagine a club world of individual characters, unified by darkness. A group that shifts in varying shades of black. Black - a color that ties together wide experiments in shapes and textures. Apart from this floating unison, each outfit stays an entirely separate project. Whether it’s strapped tops, crumpled looks or extraordinary headwear, Mazhir’s collection leaves as vast room for interpretation as the darkness. He recalls the creative freedom of his non-commercial, purely creative beginning. An approach that has been featured for the second consecutive season, as long-planned changes for the brand are set to be revealed. Who knows what they’re going to be – as for now, we only know that Mr. Mazhar sure loves a bit of uncertainty. Just like the darkness.
DIESEL Goes Emoji
The wink-face, the monkey, or rather just the thumbs up – what's your favorite emoji? Don't deny it, you have one. Emojis have become the new sign language, a universal communication system that everyone in the world can understand. Whereas other fashion labels in the past have taken this as an inspiration to paste the tiny symbols onto their clothing, DIESEL winks at us and creates their own emoji alphabet for their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. At first sight, the visuals are clearly an established fashion campaign – but with the slogan comes the twist. „It's complicated“ is adorned with little couple symbols while the expression „holy denim“ is reinforced by – of course – a praying emoji. For DIESEL Creative Director Nicola Formichetti, this campaign is a comment on our digital culture, the absurdities that define our on- and offline life. The digital world is more real than reality and has become a next-level superpower. No part is to be disregarded: the moving intimates visuals will also play on the world’s most important porn sites. The campaign's faces are also no strangers to the digital world and it's open-minded spectrum. Model Stav Strashko, who was born male but identifies as a girl, rejoices in the gender diversity now most prominent in the digital world. Singer Joe Jonas poses alongside his colleague Kiko Mizuhara and his band DNCE. Now where did Formichetti find this pool of beaming faces? Your guess is correct, online. We clap our hands to that. Not literally. The emoji. You know.
Valentino Takes To The Desert
Savanna. Vast landscapes. A sprinkle of trees, some wood branches scattered around. Amidst that: Valentino models. The brand broke out on a journey to the desert in their latest SS16 campaign. Shot by award-winning photographer Steve McCurry, the pictures show models pose arranged statically in the desert breeze, presenting the latest Valentino designs with the straight approach of reality. The images are set to be sincere and depict the exact moment they were taken. McCurry, who is renown for his reportages published in National Geographic, was chosen by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for his exceptional ability to create stories through his images. With this collection, the two also want to stress the fact that fashion carries the ability to express the necessity and creation of new aesthetic and ethical perceptions.. “We strongly believe that garments have the ability to be a vehicle in affirming concepts and that fashion has the task of expressing new demands. That is why we wanted to carry the essence of this collection in the place where the idea was born.” That birthplace is Amboseli Park in Kenya, inhabited by the Masai people, who are also featured in some of the campaign’s shots.
Paul Smith for David Bowie: Blackstar
In celebration of the release of his latest album “Blackstar” on January 8th, David Bowie has cooperated with British brand Paul Smith for a set of limited T-Shirts. The designs feature the same logo as Bowie’s album, consisting of a prominent star in the middle, underlined by a row of smaller star fragments. Graphic designer Jonathan Barnbrook, who also collaborated with Smith and Bowie for the latter’s 2013 album “The Next Day”, has conceived the artwork concept. Available in black and white, the shirts are up on sale at paulsmith.co.uk from the day of the album release. Paul Smith was happy to renew the cooperation with Bowie after the two have been friends and collaborators for years. “I’ve known David Bowie for many years and have been fortunate to spend time with him in the past. I was delighted when he asked me to collaborate on the release of The Next Day in 2013 and equally delighted to work with him again on creating a T-shirt for the release of “Blackstar”, the designer commented. The album is Bowie’s 27th studio work.
Giorgio Armani Pre-Fall 2016 Collection
It’s time for the next Pre-Fall revelation. Next in line is the Italian master of tailoring, Giorgio Armani. Titled “Bohemian Rhapsody”, the new collection features everything from city chic to floral bohemian vibes. That’s right, it’s not all dreamy and mysterious: Armani stays right on track of time while referencing his own unique style with a cheeky wink. The Pre-Fall collection resembles the closet of a very stylish clique, with each member sporting her own, unique look. Very much the latest innovation comes in form of cut-just-above-the-ankle legwear, optionally also featured as cuffed pleated trousers. While certainly this supports a “city” vibe, floral dresses and fuzzy artistic coats bring the splash of bohemia. After all, variety is key. With this collection, Armani also keeps things quite casual – flowing valance dresses are combined with flat boots. If you opt for a more eye-catching look, check out the garments with shiny pinstripes. Finally, the collection is rounded up with the one fabric that should not be missing in a fall collection: elegant velvet. Now, without a doubt, we would love to have a look in that clique’s closet, too.
Photos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani
GUCCI Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Following the release of their colorful, eclectic Pre-Fall 2016 campaign, GUCCI has presented the next visuals for the upcoming year. The Spring/Summer 16 campaign takes us to an equally eclectic city: Berlin. Shot by Glen Luchford, the models pose in again amazingly vibrant clothing. The settings are picked from everyday life: clubs, stations, rooftops (maybe not that everyday life) and shopping malls. And just as in the Pre-Fall campaign, animals once again inspired GUCCI’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele. Why else is the new it-accessory a life-size peacock? Naturally, the collection’s designs also remind of past decades, with the 70ies once again not only hinted but very present. Alessandro Michele takes us on a pretty little voyage, not only in style, but also in mind. If only Berlin party nights really would happen every day.
Louis Vuitton Series 4 Campaign
Louis Vuitton has revealed the latest campaign “Series4” with another portfolio of visual art. The Spring/Summer 2016 visuals continue the brand’s system of releasing a variety of visuals, created by different artists, for each collection. This time, the focus lies on the fierceness of women: the heroine. To capture the spirit of the “new muses of a new era”, the brand teamed up with photographers Juergen Teller, Bruce Weber and Japanese video game creator Square Enix. The latter focused on what is most prominent in this particular campaign: the digital age. Enix captured “Lightning”, a character from the popular video game series “Final Fantasy”. Being the most unusual Vuitton model to date, the virtual character is the secret star among the other campaign testimonials, actors Jaden Smith and Doona Bae. “Lightning is the perfect avatar for a global, heroic woman (…). She is also the symbol of new pictorial processes. How can you create an image that goes beyond the classic principles of photography and design? Lightning heralds a new era of expression.”, Nicolas Ghesquière reflected on his choice. New year, new age, new era.
J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall 2016
For his latest Pre-Fall collection, British designer Jonathan Anderson has channeled his inner medieval expert. Most noticeable are the leg-of-mutton sleeves featured on woolen jumpers and a short, bolero-style leather jacket. Combined with voluminous trousers that also recall clothing from past centuries, the designer has successfully transferred our ancestors into the present. These references stand alongside a shiny, tracksuit-inspired combination with blown-up, patched pockets that make room for whatever today’s fashionista has to carry. The collection’s dresses once again are reminiscent of ancient clothing: they remind of habits, only to be transferred into the present by stitched pleats and ruffles. The key accessory comes in form of the “Pierce” bag, that without a doubt lives up to its name: the clasp indeed recalls certain body jewelry. Who knew that one day, medieval sleeves and piercings could go along so well? And for that, ladies and gentlemen, we have J.W. Anderson.
Copyright: J.W. Anderson
Gigi Hadid Announced as New Tommy Hilfiger Ambassador
American heritage brand Tommy Hilfiger has announced a new partnership with international supermodel Gigi Hadid. The 20-year-old will be the new global brand ambassador, starting in Fall 2016. As a part of this partnership, Hadid will introduce her very first own capsule collection featuring apparel, footwear, accessories and even a special scent. “She is truly the definition of today’s “Tommy Girl” – her magnetic personality is bright and always optimistic, and her style is confident, effortless and cool”, Tommy Hilfiger gushes over the model. Hadid will also launch exclusive events in key markets around the world including the Hilfiger Collection fashion show during New York Fashion Week. The campaign will be shot in New York in 2016.
Florian Roithmayr at Camden Arts Centre
December 12th, sees the start of the new Florian Roithmayr exhibition “with, and, or, without” in London. Set to run until March 6th, 2016, at the Camden Arts Centre, the exhibition focuses on material changes in the process of making. Those changes depict the interdependence of materials and surfaces as well as featuring the unexpected gestures that happen between mold and cast. For this particular exhibition, Roithmayr has dared what only few artists would consider themselves capable of: after having set up certain parameters, he handed over the control of the exhibitions configuration to the front of the house. This means that the placement of Roithmayr’s work will change daily at the “gusto” of another person. And to that, we can only tip our hats.
Volez, Voguez, Voyagez: a Journey With Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton has quite literally dusted off the suitcases. For the exhibition “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez”, the French fashion house retraces its own history back to the very beginning in 1854. Presented in nine rooms at the Grand Palais in Paris, the exhibition contains travel items from archives and Paris fashion museum Palais Galliera. Viewers can even catch a glimpse at never before seen travel items from private possessions and institutions. Curated by Olivier Saillard, the exhibition takes place until the 21st of February 2016. For all those who can’t make it, the brand has released a unique and poetic movie exclusively for the exhibition, titled “Never Ending Story”. As for us, we wish that the journey with Louis Vuitton indeed would never end.
DKNY x New Museum Host Intimate Miami Beach Dinner
In celebration of a new partnership December 2, 2015, saw DKNY and New Museum host an exclusive dinner as part of the Miami Beach Art Basel. As guests were top names in fashion and art, they included the likes of Lisa Phillips, Shelley Fox Aarons, Dominique Levy and Karen Wong. With creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, DKNY is collaborating with the art institution to further advocate women artists, as the New Museum has made one of its top priorities over the past 38 years. “The New Women’s Project” brings focus and support to the exhibitions and commissions of five women artists this coming year. Not only this, but DKNY will become the Lead Sponsor of the New Museum’s spring 2016 exhibitions, including solo exhibitions by Nicole Eisenman, Goshka Macuga, Cally Spooner and more, whilst overseen by Massimiliano Gioni, Artistic Director of the museum.
Miami Beach Art Basel
Catherine Sullivan with George Lewis and Sean Griffin: Afterword via Fantasia (2015)
Louise Nevelson, Untitled, 1964. (Photo: Courtesy of © 2015 Estate of Louise Nevelson/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York)
In this year’s Miami Art Basel, 267 major galleries from all over North and Latin America, Europe, Asia and Africa will exhibit some of contemporary and Modern art’s most significant pieces alongside the field’s most prominent emerging names. Kicking off on December 3, 2015, paintings, sculptures, films and more will display must-see pieces from the likes of Anselm Kiefer and Louise Nevelson, whilst the Rubell Family Collection “No Man’s Land: Women Artists from the Rubell Family Collection” will exhibit over 100 different female artists. Not only will there be dramatic installations and large-scale artworks, but the four-day-fair also presents a number of cultural events and performances, so make sure to check out the calendar!
The Art Basel at Miami Beach is on from December 3 to December 6, 2015.
Mircea Suciu -The deceiver - 2015 - 40 x 58 cm - oil, acrylic and monoprint on linen
RICHARD PRINCE, Untitled (cartoon), 2015, inkjet and silkscreen on canvas, 73 1/4 × 55 inches (186.1 × 139.7 cm) © Richard Prince. Photo by Rob McKeever
Versace opens in Berlin
In an exciting collaboration between Donatella Versace and the English architect, Jamie Fobert, Versace are opening a new concept store on Berlin’s Kurfürstendamm. Taking a piece of the label’s heritage to their new location, the 350 sqm boutique brilliantly fuses together values of traditional Italian architecture with the dynamic energy we see at Versace today. Providing the immaculate setting for the fashion brand’s prêt-à-porter collections and accessories are 9th century Byzantine church-inspired marble mosaics, dramatic brass features and modernistic perspex walls and shelves…As Donatella puts it, “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight”, whilst paying homage to the label’s past, present and future.
Céline opens Munich Boutique
With only a few stores out there, Céline is a label that prides themselves upon exclusivity. However, Munich shoppers can breathe a sigh of relief as the Parisian label has opened an accessories store in the Oberpollinger, one of Munich’s major department stores. The 54 sqm ground floor boutique boasts a range of bags, sunglasses and jewellery in an elegant interior design of onyx, ceramic and marble.
Zadig&Voltaire Launch Candide Bag
Named after the Voltarian hero, the brand new Candide Bag is destined for cult status. Complete with biker quilting, a stitched Zadig&Voltaire logo and an off-centre padlock, Cecilia Bönström has designed an urban piece that symbolizes the label – think Parisian chic meets edgy rocker. If this wasn’t enough, the made-in-Italy, striking bag is realized with Fall/Winter versions, solidifying its iconic status for the label. Available in three sizes and a chic selection of red, black and khaki suede and leather, the Candide Bag fits the needs of the modern Zadig&Voltaire woman. We want.
Bryan Adams Wins Bronze at Lead Awards 2015
We at ZOO Magazine are thrilled to announce that Bryan Adams has been awarded with the Lead Awards 2015 bronze medal!
This is for his 2014 portraiture series of the infamous Helmut Berger, who graced the pages of ZOO in issue number 43. when he allowed Adams to step into his life for a day.
What resulted from this opportunity was an intimate series portraying his enigmatic, larger-than-life personality that became highly critically acclaimed.
Now Germany’s most prestigious photography award ceremony, the Lead Awards 2015, was held last night when the news of his win was announced.
Woolrich Unveil Second Amsterdam Flagship Store
Designed by the renowned Japanese studio Wonderwall under Masamichi Katayama’s direction, a brand new Woolrich flagship comes to Amsterdam central. Located at the freshly renovated PC Hoofstraat, the boutique is at a prime location, surrounded by fellow international luxury fashion labels.
Extending over two floors, the ground includes an impressive Dutch-style skylight whilst the lower features an intimate lounge area. There are furnishings of Made in the USA Buffalo Check wool, images of the Pennsylvanian Woolrich Mills and items from their archives… In referencing the label’s history, this boutique is reflective of the Woolrich philosophy and a smooth blend of heritage and contemporary.
No Longer / Not Yet
Italian philosopher Giorgio Agamben once famously raised the question “What is the Contemporary?” With this in mind, the Creative Director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele, opened a creative debate with his FW15/16 collections for the label and explored it conceptually, “What does contemporary mean?”.
According to Michele, the notion of contemporary refers to a “state of temporal flux”, where relics from the past are fused with signals of the future. In agreement with the statement, “The contemporary is the untimely”, from French semiotician Roland Barthes, Michele has gone on to collaborate with the Editor in Chief of LOVE magazine, Katie Grand, and curate the “No Longer / Not Yet" exhibition, shown in Shanghai’s Minsheng Art Museum.
Artists such as American sculptor Rachel Feinstein, Chinese Op artist Li Shurui and British photographer Glen Luchford have contributed individual works of all mediums reflecting their conceptualizations of the untimely or contemporary. The exhibition will also include a personal artwork from Alessandro Michele.
“No Longer / Not Yet” is on exhibition at the Minsheng Art Museum, Shanghai, until December 16, 2015.
Twice Light – New York
In marking the occasion of the 2015 NY Design Week, Italian artist Gianluca Vassallo conducted his photographic social project: Twice Light. Travelling around the city, the “one to watch” in his field of current emerging contemporary designers, Vassallo studied the relational impact of placing two strangers under a light for a full minute. This was with the aim of temporarily uniting them and thus forming small communities, whilst visually creating an extraordinary profile of New York.
These communities may have only lasted for a brief period, but the “Twice as Twiggy” lamp used throughout the project and erected in various public spaces in the city, is proving to be around for a lot longer. This is after achieving global success as a novel icon of interior design. Influenced by the plasticity of a fishing rod, the floor lamp was created in 2006 by Marc Sadler for the lighting company Foscarini, who now offer an enlarged version lighting up large spaces.
The “Twice Light – New York” exhibition, containing 120 images presented under the Twice as Twiggy lamp, is currently on show at the Spazio Soho, New York.
Rick Owens Unveils New Hollywood Boutique
With the aim to create something truly “Cecil B. Demille worthy”, a 450 square meter warehouse on La Brea, dating since the 1920s, has been renovated with the help of Owens’ long time architect-of-choice, Anna Tumaini.
Together they have created something outlandish and abstract, in a tribute to the epic biblical movies that Owens watched as a child. He claims these movies have proved huge to be huge sources of inspiration for him throughout his life with “doomed heroic purity in black and grey draped robes in huge, dusty marble temples”.
In representing this imagery, the La Brea boutique contains high ceilings, huge angular beams and the label’s signature fog glass tank, which by engulfing the room fills it with “a billowing ejaculation of fog every 5 minutes”. Not only this but there is also Owens’ own dramatic reinterpretation of a swimming pool that tantalizingly releases slow motion bubbles…The boutique is located in L.A. after all.
Bernhard Willhelm Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Undoubtedly the wackiest show of the season, Bernhard Willhelm is “celebrating randomness” with a banana themed collection. The motif is imaginatively plastered throughout the line, taking form in prints, cuts, silhouettes…Even in wired headdresses.
In a celebration of sexuality and identity the line is crafted without any regard to gender and is packed with bright tie-dye, jungle-style camouflaged prints and detailed embroidery.
Despite the initial shock factor, when you break down these looks you find they are surprisingly wearable. Deconstructed overalls, statement jackets and low crotch shorts display some clever reworking from Willhelm and prove that there is a method to his madness after all.
Moncler Gamme Rouge Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
A grassy meadow made up the runway of the heavenly romantic Moncler Gamme Rouge show. It was girlish renaissance in white lace florals, A-line skirts and cinched in waists.
Fencing sword accessories reminded of the sports undertone to the label whilst simplistic sneakers and metallic fabrics kept the collection of short silhouettes contemporary and engaging.
Giambattista Vallia has definitely kept his wits about him with this fresh, romantic look that will ultimately excite his Moncler girls.
Chanel Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Karl Lagerfeld has never been one to shy away from the theatrics. His current season for Chanel was shown in a decked out Grand Palais with the theme of an airport.
Models were jetsetters wearing aviator sunglasses, gloves and mini luggage-case purses, strolling through the airport to catch their flight.
Lagerfeld, who has clearly had enough of joggers and tracksuits in his business class surroundings, created a line of luxury, which he deems more appropriate as in-flight attire. This included leather calf-length A-line skirts worn over matching wide-leg trousers, a number of denim puffed sleeves and fabulous bejeweled bodices. This is Lagerfeld at his finest.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Jonathan Anderson is reinventing the traditionally fine Spanish leather brand, Loewe. This is with a new, particular attention to the logo, which he cleverly brandishes across bags, dresses and coordinating suits.
Mixing the outlandish with the undoubtedly ready-to-wear, his newest collection for the label sees a diverse range of fabrics and textures, from mirror shards, to cable knits to translucent plastic. The jewelry is contemporary and eclectic, with fish shaped necklaces, tailored bags and models dripping in gold with fringed earrings and bracelets. An innovative collection, which is bursting with a fresh energy for Loewe.
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There was a powerful message behind Rick Owen’s Paris show yesterday. What many would simply brandish as another bizarre fashion moment actually had a deep sentiment behind it, regarding the empathy and strength of women. Models twisted into unforgiving contortions were strapped to the torsos of other models, who walked the entire runway bearing such a weight in an Owens reinterpretation of a backpack.
The pieces themselves were beautiful and undertook new looks for the label. Beautifully tailored sleeveless duster jackets were worn over leather and canvas dresses, whilst crinkled raincoats and aviator-style jackets were mixed into the more typical range of Owen’s asymmetrical lines. His choice of footwear, being gladiator sandals or black leather boots, underlined the toughness of femininity and the inspiration behind the collection.
Gucci Opens New Milan Concept Store Celebrating Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
September 21st saw the luxury fashion label open a new concept store in Milan, showcasing the debut of Alessandro Michele with his Fall/Winter 2016 collection for Gucci.
The discreet look of the store welcomes customers to relax inside, perhaps upon on a plush velvet armchair beside a vintage Oriental rug, that contrasts with the harder surrounding features made of iron or marble. In keeping with the theme of their latest eclectic collections, the store draws attention to differences in combining traditional and modern, industrial and romantic.
This new, intimately ‘Gucci” look will be adapted to suit other other stores, respective to their locations.
Tornabuoni Art Gallery, London, Opens with Lucio Fontana Exhibition
Established by Roberto Casamonti inFlorence, 1981, the Tournabuoni Art gallery is unveiling a new gallery on Albermarle Street, London. The first week of October sees a rare collection of more than 40 works from the Argentinian Italian artist Lucio Fontana in the gallery’s opening exhibition. This being the late Fontana’s first appearance in London for over a decade, it is perhaps unsurprising that the Casamonti family own the largest collection of his works and will feature an overview of his most renowned series in the upcoming show.
According to Ursula Casamonti, who is running the London Gallery, the space differs from others in that its atmosphere offers one of comfort and intimacy, rather than the usual “white cube” viewers are so often affronted with when visiting galleries. Designed by Marco Casamonti, the gallery is a true family project, and features two spaces across two floors.
The Tornabuoni Art Gallery, London, opens its doors to the public on 8 October, 2015.l The Lucio Fontana Exhibition runs until 5 December, 2015.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Presentation at MFW
After debuting in New York Fashion Week, the women’s ready-to-wear Calvin Klein Collection featured in a Milan presentation along with select men’s and women’s Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Swimwear lines.
Francisco Costa presented the contemporary collections on suspended mannequins underneath a video of her women’s Spring/Summer 2016 Calvin Klein Collection on the ceiling whilst accessories were displayed over black platforms. Kevin Carrigan presented the other lines using models posing as skaters in an abandoned pool complete with graffiti in Los Angeles, California.
There was a bit of a retro moment underlining the presentation, with the largely denim ensembles of Calvin Klein Jeans accessorized with snakeskin or suede boots and platform sandals. These vintage-inspired looks showcased denim one-pieces and A-Line skirts that in some cases appeared with a fade-effect or distressed.
Etro Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The classic romantic, Etro this season is packed with more of the label’s signature, intricate prints. Blending folk-style with Victorian-style florals in a beautiful palette, there are ruffles, lace paneling and a matching choker in any given look. Latticed boots appear amongst satin ballet pumps with embroidered paisley bags accessorizing.
With such a keen eye for the details and so much going on in any given look, Veronica Etro has created a world for us to get lost in with each, individual piece.
Missoni Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Taking a trip down memory lane, Angela Missoni has reintroduced sportswear as the basis of this season’s collection. Using the colourful artworks of Venezuelan Carlos Cruz Diez as inspiration, the show saw a runway packed with vivid prints and colors.
Zig zags and checks accompany stripes on the pieces, accessorized with chokers and sneakers or flat sandals. Looks were simplistic, usually including a maxi length dress or open cardigan or micro shorts or swimwear, keeping silhouettes sleek and long. An overall more relaxed feeling than last season at the label.
Peaches Releases New Album “Rub”
What else is in the teaches of Peaches? By the sounds of “Dick in the Air” and “Vaginoplasty”, it’s pretty much a sex-only subject. The notorious Canadian has announced her latest album, “Rub”, which features the likes of Kim Gordon, Simonne Jones and Feist. An electro mish mash of grimey, sexy synths and provocative lyrics, Peaches is back with her awesome new track “Light in Places”…Be warned however, with Empress Stah beaming a lazor out of her crotch throughout the video, it is not for the faint hearted… but then again who out of Peaches’ fanbase has ever been fainthearted.
Fay Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
It is a seventies paisley dream at Fay this season. With embroidered tunics, lace-up waistcoats and crochet galore, creative directors Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have gone out all out boho.
Girlish ruffles and folk-style dresses are a mish mash of prints and layered with variations of military-inspired jackets, meaning there is a lot to look at. In comparison to the simple sophistication of their Fall/Winter 2016 line, this season at FAY has taken a less serious approach and added a touch of “elegant chaos”.
CHANEL Unveils Ephemeral Boutique in Rome
In place of its previous Via del Babuino boutique CHANEL has opened an ephemeral boutique, which is just steps away from its new boutique on the Piazza di Spagna, Rome.
The House welcomes “the masculine-feminine”, a concept treasured by Gabrielle Chanel. With a raw, minimalistic design of white floors and ceilings separated with oak, terrazzo and concrete modules, the understated boutique is appealing to both sexes.
Filling up the space will be the Ready-to-Wear line with accessories and the new, unisex, Boyfriend watch collection. There is also a fragrance and beauty section with a picturesque, Roman courtyard hidden behind the boutique.
Claire Barrow Spring/Summer 16 Collection at LFW
“Broken Machines”, reflects Claire Barrow’s prophecy of our society’s doomed fate. In a world primarily dependent on technology, the NEWGEN designer’s presentation reflects a world in which this entity, imperative to our being, breaks down and leaves us out in the cold.
Worn by a selection of models Barrow has personally sought after, the gender-blurred collection is a beautiful jumble of silks, lace-up leathers, power suits and her trademark scrawling prints.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Fanny packs, metallics and platform shoes. John Galliano is taking us raving. The dingy basements of London’s club scene has undoubtedly influenced the urban fashion show with models stopping to fiddle with the stereo equipment before walking, as if choosing their own soundtrack.
Split hem maxi dresses, eagle prints, tie dye and exposed bikinis made up the basis of the current, ever-eccentric, MM6 collection… Think grunge meets punk meets glitterball. However, the sad thing is that by the fierce expression of the model/ravers, we might not be getting an invite to this cool party.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Reminiscent of the label’s 1994 collection, which was immortalized thanks to the likes of Kate Moss on its runway, Francisco Costa has turned his head back to basics with the inspiration of a simple slip.
Adding a grunge twist, his sleek soft silk maxi dresses have split hems and loose straps, whilst lightweight, beautifully tailored long jackets with split cuffs billow over frayed-hem trousers. Mainly in a minimalistic neutral palette, Costa adds a touch of unpredictability to the label’s collection with the incorporation of floral print.
Givenchy Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Cranking up several more notches on the face décor scale, Riccardo Tisci returns this season with another classically “Givenchy” collection. Making his debut into New York Fashion Week, Tisci teamed up with Marina Abramovic to make a thought-provoking reference to 9/11 in the opening of his show.
The collection itself is a natural continuation from last season’s. Adopting whites and neutrals into his black palette, Tisci experiments with fabrics with an alligator skin couture dress. Perfectly tailored trousers, pointed lace-up shoes and a magnitude of lace leaves Tisci with a collection that is the perfect mix of elaborateness and class.
YSL Presents Latest Campaign “Rue de l'Université”
It has now been more than a decade since we said goodbye to the astounding couture of YSL, following the retirement of founder Yves Saint Laurent in 2002. Most would surely find the task of filling his shoes too daunting to take on… Hedi Slimane however has presented himself as a match. Since being appointed as the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent in 2012, Slimane has spent the past three years busy renovating the “Hôtel de Sénecterre”, a.k.a. the last couture house of Saint Laurent.
The majestic building located at 24, Rue de l’Université, was originally built in 1685 by architect Thomas Gobert and would have probably needed a great deal more than a lick of paint to whip back into working shape… Yet Slimane has done it. The iconic label’s latest campaign is shot in the grand house, signifying it’s long anticipated opening as the lavish new couture house of Saint Laurent.
Schinkel Pavillion Host Solo Paul McCarthy Exhibition
As part of Berlin Art Week, US-American artist Paul McCarthy opens the Schinkel Pavillion’s new season with his confrontational, engaging current exhibition. Based on action and reaction, the viewer has no choice but to be included directly in the exhibition. Primarily concerning himself with life and death, waking and sleeping, presence and illusion, McCarthy uses the human body as a point of reference.
“Horizontal” (2012) is at the centre of the exhibition and is a synthetic, lifeless replica of McCarthy’s naked body. This feature signals the existential, the obsessive and the voyeuristic, whilst a special extended exhibition space of the Schinkel Pavillion hosts McCarthy’s sculptural video installation “That Girl T.G. Drawing Table – Drawing” (2011-2013).
In support of the Schinkel Pavilion, Paul McCarthy will also donate an artwork to the Schinkel Pavilion e.V., to be sold at a benefit auction on October 17, 2015, along with 52 other artists at Christie’s in London. Paul McCarthy’s solo exhibition runs from September 12 to November 11, 2015.
Miu Miu Tells a Coming of Age Story with “Les 3 Boutons”
“It’s playing a game with reality,” Varda says. “The game is called cinema”.
Agnès Varda, a.k.a The “Grandmother of the Nouvelle Vague” and the first female winner of Cannes Film Festival’s honorary Palme d’Or, has directed the tenth installment of Miu Miu’s “Women’s Tales” celebrating contemporary femininity and empowerment.
“Les 3 Boutons” sees Varda toy with ideas of classic fairytales versus modern-day reality, avoiding the clichés so often associated with girlhood. Introducing Jasmine Thiré as a typical, 14-year-old farm girl,she takes a break from milking goats upon the arrival of her postman. Avoiding the easy Cinderella tale, the inquisitve Jasmine dons her school uniform and begins a journey of self-discovery. Along the way, she gradually loses three buttons. Each of these seems to mark some element of change in her life, which can be applied to all of us, irrespective of age.
What Do You Mean it’s Exclusive Calvin Klein?
To the avid horror of Beliebers everywhere, the latest Justin Bieber video sees him get pretty well aquainted with model Xenia Deli. The pair writhe around wearing exclusively Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein underwear, to the backing track of his new song, “What do you mean?”. By doing so, he keeps the collab flame alight with the luxury fashion label, after featuring in their racy Spring/Summer 2015 advertising campaign with supermodel Lara Stone.
The “Serial Classic” Exhibition Makes Space for Unique Learning Opportunity
The Fondazione Prada have announced that in dismantling their “Serial Classic” exhibition, a unique opportunity for study and learning will be on offer. Over the weeks that this process will take place in Rem Koolhaas’ impressive Podium, Milan, two external walkways will be erected alongside it allowing the public to witness the process. Additionally, groups of university students will be invited to enter the exhibition space and enjoy chatting with experts, technicians, conservators and other professionals.
The “Serial Classic” exhibition itself included more than 60 artworks acquired from other museums on a global scale. It focused on themes of serialities and copies, in regard to Greek and Roman sculpture. We commonly associate the classical period with notions of uniqueness and originality, however there is no other time frame in Western Art History that has seen imitations of other masterpieces been considered so importantly as in late Republican Rome and the Imperial age.
The project is presented from August 28, 2015 for around three weeks and includes daily research sessions.
Dismaland: A Place Where Dreams Don’t Dome True
It was over the weekend that the British street artist Banksy opened the gates to his bleak antithesis to Disneyland. Located in an abandoned swimming pool in Weston-Super-Mare, England, the adults theme park is packed with dark humour and political innuendos.
Upon entering, you are immediately searched for weapons and given a brisk pat down. In the park, sullen workers loiter about, wearing bunny ears and holding balloons captioned “I am an Imbecile”. Ponds brim with dead bodies and toy boats overcrowded with refugees, whilst another highlight includes a Cinderalla crash scene surrounded by Paparazzis.
Scattering the walls are Banksys’ street artworks, whilst he also enlists the help of 52 other artists, such as Damien Hirst and Jimmy Cauty.
“Dismaland” will be open for 36 days, until 27 September 2015.
Tiger of Sweden Jeans Pop-Up Store in Central Copenhagen
Just this afternoon Tiger of Sweden / Jeans opened a brand new pop-up store in the heart of Copenhagen. Landing in perfect timing for Fashion Week, it stocks the Tiger Jeans A/W 2015 collection for both guys and girls. This collection exudes the brooding edge that Tiger of Sweden Jeans prides itself upon, using a combination of “minimalistic expression with a dark, dreamlike print” in creating looks.
According to Fredrik Folkesson, who is Product Manager for the brand, Tiger Jeans has evolved massively over time, since its birth in 2001. After departing from the larger fashion family, Tiger of Sweden, Tiger Jeans has used it’s cooler, more urban reputation to become one of Sweden’s’ leading jeans brands.
The store opening today in Copenhagen is the first to date that sells exclusively Tiger Jeans, and reflects its’ growth to an established Fashion line.
Diesel SS/15 Campaign: #DieselHigh
Rise above. Tolerance. Inclusiveness. LOVE. This is Diesel’s new year’s resolution. With the blazing horns of equality resonating through the Diesel motto, the SS2015 campaign takes fashion to another level. Explained and conceived by creative director Nicola Formichetti, the campaign runs with the #DieselHigh slogan’s provocative and optimistic message – “It’s elevating yourself. Elevating your spirit. Whatever it takes, however you do it. Wherever you are.” The celebration of the unique individual and the spirit of diversity is deeply rooted within Diesel’s DNA. Here it is fully expressed in the SS2015 #DieselHigh formulation – a resounding nod towards the sirens of tolerance, equality and unconditional love. www.diesel.com
Gucci Unveils Surrealistic Window For Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
July 21st marked the opening of the Gucci-designed window for their new Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s FW 2015/2016 collection. His first collection and its dreamlike display will be installed in stores worldwide by the end of the month.
An admix of disco’s love for striking neon lights and Salvador Dali’s penchant for the odd and grandiose — the window features purple and turquoise LEDs, creating a distinct 3D perspective, alongside embroidered snakes and giant swallows. This nod to surrealism goes hand in hand with the eclectic collection, being both eye-catching and imaginative.
Antony Morato Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
From the beating heart of New York City arises the urbanite “Places” campaign from Antony Morato. Following the footsteps of world-travelling Italian man, this curious adventurer has arrived in the city of a thousand lights. As any traveller would know, culture is as diverse as the winding paths of the road. And a lot of roads lead to New York. As a cradle of cultural exchange, the city continues to breathe new trends, affected by the thousands of “places” it hides. The FW campaign, shot by photographer Tony Thorimbert uncovers the unexpected metropolis, leaving behind what we assume New York to be and presenting it through its vibrancy, its architecture and its urbanism.
Recontres d’Arles Photography Fair 2015
From the 6th of July to the 20th of September, the annual summer photography festival in Arles will showcase a number of specially designed exhibitions to the public.
The festival prides itself in its variety, having multiple projects running simultaneously throughout the city. From exhibitions, to sites, and artists, the artistic direction works towards fulfilling this kaleidoscopic construction. This year, the photography fair will center on the worlds of music, film and architecture, hoping to blaze the fires of cultural introspection – acting as an x-ray of photographic creation, paired with a festive heart.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by Bretagne, the French region known for sailing, the Breton sailor stripe and Crêpes, Gaultier goes fully French. It was more than fanciful; it was a sneak peek into the continual curiousness of Mr. Gaultier’s creative mind. Amongst his angular take on the beret, the part chefs-hat, part statuette headpiece exemplified the very present theatrical element of Gaultier’s France. Theatrics aside, the collection contained an array of beautifully constructed fabrics, the intense yellow, gold, orange and blue color scheme only highlighting the mastery of construction. Despite the whimsicality of Gaultier’s shows, it is something that has become a bit of a trademark — and in the end, his playfulness is always breath of fresh air.
Herr von Eden v MÜHLE Shaving Culture
Together with MÜHLE, Herr von Eden is launching a set of premium-grade shaving accessories for all men with an eye for quality and style. Good taste and an attention to detail are perfectly combined in this elegant shaving kit. Timelessly and traditionally crafted, the shaving set consists of a high-quality shaving brush with a handle made of resin, in combination with a low-maintenance synthetic fiber — the Silvertip Fibre ® - a MÜHLE innovation. In addition to this highly constructed kit, the aloe vera shaving soap ensures a thoroughly enjoyable shaving experience — for the cultivated gentleman.
Christian Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Asymmetrical coats, one arm draped in fur, the other exposed. Dior’s Couture show had a little of everything – as kaleidoscopic as the ceilings of the Dior custom made space. However, Raf Simons’ conception of Dior Haute Couture looked nonetheless coherent, originating from an inspirational point of view that played itself out on the runway. The platform shoe made itself known in this show, too, giving the models a physical elevation as much as a metaphorical elevation of the collection as a whole – it seemed to float on some other plane – perhaps made more evident by the whimsically constructed location in the gardens of Paris’ Musée Rodin. Dominated by ankle-length gowns and steel-like mesh constructions, the collection seemed made for a contemporary noblewoman of some kind. Indeed, the A-line cut of the sleeve and the billowy shape of the blouses recall a certain Tudoresque sensibility – its mesh vests and thick coats reminiscent of a vastly updated dress for the court of Henry VIII perhaps?
3 Stripes In Motion – adidas Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
As the only German fashion brand present on the French runway during this year’s SS16 Men’s shows, adidas presented new collections and upcoming collaborations. Amongst these were the Y-3 brand in partnership with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, exclusive styles for Rick Owens, Kolor and Raf Simons, as well as new ventures involving Kris Van Assche. Adidas was in good company at the SS16 shows this year, as the biannual Paris fashion week as been laced with a good amount of sportswear inspired looks this season. Emphasis has been on practicality, agility and wearability and this has certainly been reflected in the footwear design. Throughout the fashion week events, adidas maintained a strong presence, having presented five new styles of footwear from is Tubular series and featured in a total of seven outings, either through their own showcases or as creative collaborators.
Balmain Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain man is definitely memorable. A reimagination of the twentieth-century adventurer, Rousteing evokes the essence of a contemporary city explorer. Though perhaps not as practical as it is aesthetically pleasing, the throwback headpieces, khaki belted jackets and pocket-heavy pants are the results of a certain military pragmatism and an appreciation for the classic cuts of the 1900s, refashioned with the modern man in mind. Indeed, as Olivier Rousteing’s first menswear collection for Balmain, the collection is decidedly statement-worthy, and iconic in the way that it neatly reflects the iconic qualities of its inspirational figures – the traversing scientists and aristocrats of old.
Maison Margiela Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Studded shoes, long black overcoats, leather, silver, ankle-length vests and the occasional abstract painting splashed across the chest. Maison Margiela’s collection captures the essence of an effortless yet fashion-minded man. Suits, coats and pants are fashioned in a nonchalant manner – the tailoring spot-on for an appropriately slouchy but crisp look.
The SS 16 Margiela man falls somewhere in-between an iconic Laurence Fishbourne in the Matrix and what you would imagine a modern day Dorian Gray to be. Badass but refined. Restrained but strong - timeless and memorable.
G-Star RAW x Ellen von Unwerth: The Sequel
The iconic denim brand G-Star RAW teamed up with photographer Ellen von Unwerth for their second unique collaboration, this time in monochromatic splendor. The raw visuals of von Unwerth’s imagery highlight the denim texture’s distinct attitude. Playing with military poses, the campaign draws forth the denim’s youthful and rebellious connotations. Formative of G-Star RAW’s evolution has been the Elwood – the first ever pants constructed using 3D methods, which drew on biker pants for inspiration. The campaign showcases the wide range of G-Star RAW jeans from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The FW 2015 collection is currently available online and in stores from August onwards.
Prada Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Leather shorts, black boots, tailored jackets and casually bold prints dominated the somewhat feminine take on menswear by Miuccia Prada. The collection was imprinted with the playful feeling of boyhood – oversized tops, colorful prints of rocket ships and racing cars and shirts tucked hurriedly into shorts. Boot-cut pants and zipped sweaters beneath printed shirts reflected the vintage 70s vibe that reverberated throughout the Prada showcase.
Kenzo Resort 2016 Collection
The unifying pillar of the Kenzo Resort 2016 collection is its nod towards the modern-day woman on the go. With the universe at her feet and a yearning for functionality, Kenzo provides the sartorial relief for a woman in need of comfort paired with practicality and elegance. With subdued prints and flowing fabrics, the collection is made decidedly versatile with its soft, natural color scheme. Camouflage greens, stone greys, pale violets and beiges make sure the Kenzo Resort 2016 garments fits into any setting.
Moschino Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspirational origins were decidedly unsubtle and in-your-face at the Moschino Menswear SS 2016 show. Models walked out to the backdrop of a classical French mansion wearing accessories fit for… well Louis XVI himself. Certainly fascinating and absolutely eccentric, creative mind Jeremy Scott channels motor sports, French luxury and the rebellious air of Jimi Hendrix and Prince all at once.
Scott’s take on menswear prescriptions are definitively not to be put into a pigeonhole. Indeed, the signal is that there is absolutely nothing keeping you from wearing what you want to wear but availability, and Moschino and Scott certainly delivers.
“This is not about more pocket squares, more deconstructed jackets, more athelisure, more meh. It’s Moschino, baby.”
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016
The Northern Irish gusto J.W. Anderson displayed for structural and practical garments came forth in full-force with raw denims, soft leathers and cottons at his London Collections show. The collection showcased Andersons’ true force within the menswear world – depicting the modern man in avant-garde cuts that were somehow made effortlessly classic.
Carrying forth this fashion-forward man was a striking throwback and definitive nod towards Louis XVI, Dorothy’s red ruby slippers and something altogether futuristic all at once. Indeed, this futuristic, mechanical and even astronautically constructed vision firmly plants Anderson in the position as one of menswears’ designated innovators.
AGL Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign starring Dakota Fanning
The Giusti sisters welcome back the ethereal Dakota Fanning back into the fold with her renewed position as face of AGL for a fourth season. The Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection is laced with androgyny, combining boyish styles with a feminine taste through its minimal shapes and bold details.
Vera, Marianna and Sara Giusti chose Dakota for her embodiment of the refined AGL spirit of femininity and playfulness, her energy captured in the monochrome images of photographer Rankin.
HUGO BOSS Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Industrial cuts, classical in nature yet futuristic in look is the order of the day in the recently revealed HUGO BOSS FW 15 campaign. Laced with crimsons, the pervading grays are elevated from classic to edgy, safe to bold. Artistic Director Jason Wu brings to the campaign a cemented Berlin feeling in his refined layers of anthracite felt.
Featuring Clément Chabernaud and Edie Campbell, this ode to Wu’s structural vision is reflected in the photographic work of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, directed by Stephen Galloway. The collection tells a story through the play between structure form and a striking palette of black, red, camel and gray.
Converse Rubber Tracks – Who Wants To Play?
Unlocking the doors to iconic studios the world over, Converse Inc. announces their global program Converse Rubber Tracks. Legendary spaces such as Abbey Road, Sunset Sound, Converse’s own two Rubber Tracks studios make up just some of the 12 landmark studios that will provide aspiring musicians the chance to record original music at absolutely no cost whatsoever.
Since its flagship studio opened in Brooklyn in 2011, the Converse Rubber Tracks team has collaborated with over 900 emerging artists, providing access to top-level recording equipment and instruments at no cost – with the artist retaining all rights. Converse’s Global Music Marketing Director Jed Lewis outlined Converse’s long dedication to the music industry, “As a brand so deeply rooted in the next generation of creative spirits, we’re eager to make history while inspiring creativity and self-expression among music communities worldwide.”
Global registration remains open until Wednesday, June 24th and is open to all emerging artists, bands and musicians aged 18 and older, of all genres and across the globe to register for this one-in-a-lifetime opportunity!
For more information and a chance to chase your recording-studio dreams, go to
The Hanging Gardens Ubud
Imagine a temple for the rejuvenation of the soul. Does a secluded yet connected location, exotic flora and fauna and an unbeatable view sound anything like it? The Hanging Gardens of Ubud, Bali has this and much more to offer the adventurous soul. With funiculars gliding through the canopies of the surrounding nature, the terraced levels of the Gardens could reminisce of a Peter Pan-like retreat.
Bali lies between the islands Java and Lombok, and is known for its distinctive culture, from its arts and crafts to its scenery and temples. The Hanging Gardens personifies this with its panoramic valley and jungle views, organic restaurant and spa. From Ubud, nature-loving wanderers can easily find themselves hiking up volcanoes and forested highlands to rafting, horseback riding and mountain biking in the local area. The Neka Art Museum and Monkey Forest Sanctuary is also close by, offering their share of impressive cultural experiences.
MOKE Returns With Their New Single ‘LET IT BURN’
Hailing from the canals of Amsterdam, Moke returns after a one and a half year hiatus. With the announcement of their upcoming fourth studio album, ‘LET IT BURN’ signals the return of a long-awaited return to the music scene.
With their distinctive guitar and newly incorporated influences brought from sources such as the keyboardist Eddy Steeneken and the Swedish producer Daniel Gibson. ‘LET IT BURN’ is the prelude to the upcoming album to be released this fall, as well as the first celebratory ring of their 10th anniversary.
Over ten years the band has enjoyed accolades such as achieving gold for their debut album ‘Shorland’, performances in prominent Dutch festivals (such as Pinkpop and Lowlands), to theatre and European tours, including a unique collaboration with the Metropole Orchestra.
Ease the wait of their album release with ‘LET IT BURN’, now on Spotify.
HUGO BOSS Asia Art Award 2015
Rockbound Art Museum (RAM) are partnering for the second edition of HUGO BOSS ASIA ART. Conceived and curated by the Rockbound Art Museum, the biannual award honors emerging contemporary Asian artists.
The award is handed to an emerging Asian artist, whose works, along with the participants, will be exhibited at RAM from 30 October 2015 until 3 January 2016. Won for the first time in 2013 by Kwan Sheung Chi, the artworks for the 2015 event will be new commissions made purposefully for the award event. Composed of chair Larys Frogier, Director of the Rockbund Art Museum in Shanghai, advisory committee members Alexandra Munroe, Senior curator of Asian Art at the Guggenheim and curator and critic Hou Hanru among others, the HUGO BOSS awards is a gathering of Asian Art connoisseurs. Branching beyond the Chinese artists, this year’s awards have extended its selection to Southeast Asia.
Chinese contemporary art is experiencing a great deal of interest, with increasingly emerging awareness of its international presence. Intended to showcase the artists’ vision, the exhibition had no overarching theme. Following exhibitions in Europe such as the recent Focus Beijing at the Boijmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam and the first major exhibition of Chinese contemporary art at the MET, Ink Art in 2014, Asian art is positioning itself strongly in the international art sphere.
The HUGO BOSS Arts program aims at encouraging an exchange between the fashion and arts fields. To discover more about the program, go to:
Amsterdam Tribal Art Fair 2015
The weekend of Saturday the 16th to Sunday the 17th marks the fourth installment of The Amsterdam Trail, a celebration and appreciation of the historic and contemporary influence and relevance of tribal art. Contemporary artists will be exhibiting in galleries specialized in ethnographic and Asiatic art scattered along the specified trail. Among majestic African masks, New Guinean shields and Tibetan daggers, contemporary photos, videos, jewelry and sculptures inspired by ethnographic and Asiatic aesthetics will be exhibited.
Ethnographic objects have inspired the art world since the beginning of the 20th century. Artists such as Picasso, Man Ray and Modigliani are but a few artists greatly inspired by such objects. Contemporary artists are continuously looking to the masters from Africa, Asia and South America for inspiration. Some are passionate collectors of ethnographica - others are simply inspired by the intensity and deep cultural affiliations of tribal art.
For this years’ trail, the artist Folkert de Jong has created new pieces, which will be exhibited amongst objects originating from Oceania in Gallery Lemaire. Amongst others, Vincent Vulsna examines the appropriation of other cultures by the west and this problematization in his work, which will be exhibited in the Amstelkerk and Tatjana J. van Vark will demonstrate her creations on Saturday, May 16th and will give a talk about her work in the Michel Thieme gallery.
For more information about the Trail, go to
Milan Opening of Fondazione Prada Art Center
The industrial complex and former Società Italiana Spiriti distillery made for an imposing yet grand setting for the May 3rd opening of Fondazione Prada, the OMA-designed art center in Milan. With attendees such as Hans-Ulrich Obrist, curator of the Serpentine, artist Damien Hirst and filmmaker Steve McQueen, the creative world were out in full force. The new permanent venue is the result of a reinvigoration project developed by architectural giant OMA, with the aim of expanding upon the spatial typologies in which art can be exhibited. With Rem Koolhaas at the helm, the architectural configuration is a composite of seven existing buildings dating back to the 1910’s with three added structures, the Podium, Cinema and Torre.
Created in 1993, Fondazione Prada’s philosophy of analysing the present is made possible through various creative platforms including contemporary art exhibitions, architecture, cinema and philosophical projects. Curated by several departments and headed by Muccia Prada, Patrizio Bertelli and Gemano Celant, the space is constructed around the idea of creative knowledge exchange and enhanced learning.
Exhibits are put on in various forms, the upcoming ‘Serial Classic’, and ‘Portable Classic’ projects, birthed by Salvatore Settis, taking on the subject of classical Greek-Roman statuary reproduction, whilst their new Bar Luce, conceived by film director Wes Anderson, reconstructs the classical Milanese café through a cinematic lens. The Fondazione Prada is an all-encompassing experience of the creative life – a dynamism reflecting the combined expertise of its creators and contributors.
The Milan venue of Fondazione Prada will open to the public on Saturday 9 May 2015, with the exhibition Portable Classic (9 May – 13 September 2015).
Paris Photo Los Angeles 2015
Held on May 1st – 3rd, the annual spring art fair was presented by Paramount Pictures studios in Los Angeles. The blank canvas to the many bodies of work on display, the space featured 79 leading galleries and art book dealers from 17 countries worldwide. The public program was built around international cultural events, artists, art world professionals, collectors and institutions.
Artists and curators such as Pierre Bismuth, Jonathan Griffin (editor, Frieze Magazine) and Pauline J. Yao (Curator, M+, Hong Kong) engaged audiences with dialogues both practical and philosophical about the image in contemporary society in the Sound & Vision series. Exhibitors highlighted artists taken by diverse subjects and techniques – from the cinematic close ups of Ori Gersht, presented by the gallery ART LEXÏNG to the multilayered artifice of reflection in landsapes by Zoé T. Vizcaíno by DOCUMENT ART.
Presented by J.P. Morgan, UNEDITED! – An unveiling of never-before-seen photographic material and INTRODUCING! – The Young California Photographer Award was given for the first time to the UCLA Arts MFA student CJ Heyliger. Paris Photo also displayed a selection of artworks from the JPMorgan Chase Art Collection. The pieces in SPOTLIGHT! explore themes of identity, landscape and abstraction and included contemporary artists such as Thierry Fontaine, Ori Gersht and Thomas Ruff.
Images top to bottom:
Zoé T. Vizcaíno Umbral
Arden Ellis Surdam
To read more, visit www.parisphoto.com/losangeles
Filippa K: Sustainability Is The Guide To Growth
Filippa K’s newly launched online platform finally communicates their long-term efforts towards sustainability in fashion.
Founded in 1993 by Filippa Knutsson and Patrik Kihlborg, their vision “Fashion where sustainability is the guide to growth” is channeled through a wardrobe consisting of stripped-down, simplistic designs, essential pieces. Garments of clean design and high quality seem intrinsic to the Scandinavian philosophy, where the flexibility of designs easily transition from season to season and year to year. Durability and a timeless quality is key in this configuration, where style not necessarily opposes sustainability.
Inspired by ecosystems and planetary boundaries, the company is devoted to the reduction of the textile industry’s environmental and social footprints. Their choice of materials and production practices reflect an acute awareness of the long and exhaustive supply chain, in an attempt to produce less of what is needed and deliver long-lasting garments. Their recently launched products “front runners” are completely recyclable in the fabric tencel (wood), including the corozo nut as buttons.
We want to be part of the solution rather than add to the problem.
This philosophy is based on two main concepts: The Curated Wardrobe and Circular Design. A curated wardrobe is simple rather than excessive, and should be created to last over time – the ecosystems and its inherent processes of reuse in turn inspire the circular design concept.
To read more about Filippa K’s Sustainable philosophy, visit their website at:
Replay At The Fuorisalone 2015: An Art Installation by Fabio Novembre
In conjunction with Milan’s 54th Design Week, the newly opened Replay Flagship store The Stage will showcase a conceptual art installation by architecht Fabio Novembre in collaboration with Replay. A reinterpretation of the Piazza Gae Aulenti-situated store, Novembre incorporates pieces such as the iconic Driade armchair as a take on the conceptualization of ‘the stage’.
Created exclusively for Replay, the reformulated concept is centered on the ever dynamic and ever changing sound stages of the cinema and theater – changes arise as if in a dramatic plot. Utilising masks, Novembre challenges identity and the space between the proscenium and the backstage, “Hidden identities create parallel worlds and unpredictable scenarios. But the underlying risk is the inevitable identity crisis: who am I? Who are you?”
The art installation will be on display from April 14 to 18.
Alessandro Michele’s First Gucci Campaign
Alessandro Michele does things differently. This was, of course, one of the main reasons he became the new creative director at Gucci last January. During his latest women’s wear show, he showed a new kind of sexiness that was surprising for a brand like Gucci. The glammed up fashion doll that we were used to disappeared, and it seems as if she is not coming back. Gucci’s new advertisement campaign shows Giannini’s last collection for the brand, but everything else shows Michele. Photographer Glen Luchford shot the series for the campaign, in which Michele’s fresh vision comes across perfectly.
New Work by Adam Pendleton at Pace Gallery London
Conceptualist Adam Pendleton is presenting new work at the Pace Gallery in London. From the 16th of April until the 23rd of May, the gallery is open for visitors. This multi-disciplinary artist has been known for using different media such as silkscreen printing, painting and video. To see what he has been up to, make sure not to miss this exhibition.
Armani’s Art of Living
For the first time, Armani Casa is showing work from the most important projects, together with scale models, samples, stylistic research and sketches. To see the process behind the interior collection of the Armani house, you can visit them during this year’s Salone del Mobile in Milan.
Since 2015 is an important year for Armani, the exhibition will represent important milestones for the brand. Many projects from all over the world will all be showcased.
Mykita at Dover Street Market
Mykita has been making perfect eyewear since 2003. By combining proper craftsmanship with modern technology, they manage to create a beautiful and high quality collection every time. Now, Mykita has collaborated with Dover Street Market New York for a pop-up installation. You can visit it until the 30th of April to discover Mykita.
The Infrared Summer by Joseph Lally
The Visual Artist, Writer and Cosmic Thinker Joseph Lally has published his first novel. In this shocking story, he takes us into a world of glamour, sex, drugs, models and the powerful, all told from an insider’s perspective.
Now available on Amazon.com
Bally Celebrates Modernist Design
Chinese artist Wang Yuyang was invited by Bally to create Equip, an original art piece inspired by a demountable house that was designed by Jean Prouvé in collaboration with Pierre Jeanneret. This innovative piece is being showcased at the Shanghai Exhibition Centre, which will be open from March 27th until March 30th, 2015. The exhibition celebrates modernity and innovation, which was always expected from Jean Prouvé and Pierre Jeanneret.
Chanel at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Karl Lagerfeld admitted to his love for France during his latest Chanel show. Since he has been opening grocery stores and rebuilding stages for the past few years, it was time for Brasserie Gabrielle to get introduced to the rest of the world.
He is known to be the designer that keeps on evolving the oh so classical brand of Chanel, and he managed to do that once again. It is not only in the way he presents the collections, but it is hidden in details and materials too.
Lagerfeld is celebrating Chanel heritage; in the way he refers to French culture, and in every garment he creates.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since Nicolas Ghesquière took over the steering wheel, Louis Vuitton has been traveling into a slightly different direction. For the Fall/Winter 2015 collection, he has found a way to add some of that Parisian rock ‘n roll into Vuitton’s classic luxury.
Biker pants and jackets were combined with short dresses in flower prints, finished up with pointy heels and low, black boots. The looks felt casual and laid-back, but none of them lacked flare.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Yamamoto’s Fall/winter 2015 show was as sober, sophisticated and uniform like we can always expect. Long dresses in draped velvet and wool gave the feeling of closed intimacy and anonymity.
Where other designers go back a few decades to find inspiration, it seems as if Yamamoto went back a few centuries. His looks felt more like they were beautiful costumes, only made to wear by people who could truly appreciate this art. The same goes for the less wearable spider-like constructions that he showed. Even though they are not made for wearing, they show Yamamoto’s genius as an artist rather then a fashion designer.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
If we try to predict how the streets will look for next fall, we can simply start by showing you the latest collection by Kenzo. Once again, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have created a collection that is going to be everywhere.
Perfect Kenzo prints, bright colors combined with deep, darker ones and layers of sweaters, skirts and pants. Flowing, light skirts and dressed with large, warm shearling jackets reach perfect balance. It as a highly commercial, beautiful collection, that we won’t mind seeing everywhere.
Made By You by Converse
Converse has been gathering personal editions of the Chuck Taylor All Star all over the world. They come together in the campaign “Made by you”, which celebrates the uniqueness of every customized pair. People have been expressing themselves on their Chuck Taylors for nearly 100 years, which means it is time to bring them together and share their stories. A fresh pair of Chucks has always been like a blank canvas, and now we can explore different creations from artist to skaters and musicians.
Vetements at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In between all luxury and sophistication, Vetements is a breath of fresh air. Demna Gvasalia does things a bit differently. His latest collection was presented in Le Depot, a gay club in Paris. We saw police uniform-inspired looks, oversized coats and long floral dresses combined with what seemed to be cleaning gloves.
Gvasalia mismatches subcultures and creates a new reality for city kids. Even though the collection is diverse – it contains bomber jackets to full length knitted dresses – every single piece says the same thing: “I won’t bother you if you won’t bother me.”
Marni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For next fall, Consuelo Castiglioni took a different look at femininity. The collection seemed to be inspired by the costumes of a Siberian tribe, with the long, wide skirts and dresses. Felt-like wool was embroidered with black florals and showed a modern look on ancient tradition.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, Donatella Versace is giving us exactly what we have expected. Fur, over the knee boots, cut-out fabric and glitter. We saw full looks in primary colors, next to eye-catching graphical prints. Short dresses were bedazzled with rhinestones and covered with the Versace name. All of this gave us the feeling that Donatella was introducing us to a Bond girl from the sixties.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Miuccia Prada presented us a quirky female villain from a cartoon, ready to take over the planet. Even though Miuccia herself has already taken over, we would like to discuss some of the things this antihero was wearing. Covered in pastels, bows and soft fur patches on her shoulders, this lady does not seem harmful at first sight. Cropped pants and groovy prints add to her innocence, while long leather gloves suggest otherwise. This girl is ready to do some dirty work.
We saw brilliant tailoring, beautiful details and fascinating combinations of textures. Brooches and buttons were quite subtly added to every look, making sure that every ensemble was screaming Prada. Not that Miuccia needs a few brooches for that, because everything we saw during this show could not be created by anyone else.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandro Michele’s debut for Gucci womenswear is everything we hoped for. Ultra feminine silhouettes and colors, perfect pleats and refined craftsmanship show how he was the right choice for Gucci all along.
Michele’s goddess is an unexpected one. She is the girl in your class you never paid attention to, the one who sat in the corner of the room reading. By introducing her, Michele is applying a new kind of sexiness to the Gucci style. Buttoned up shirts with bow ties, long and thick fur coats and medium length skirts and dresses are combined with see through lace tops. Her outfits are slightly mismatched, which gives her a certain charm that we haven’t seen at Gucci before. At least not like this.
Floral dresses, pleated metallic skirts and silk blouses point at a commercial collection. Almost every garment is easy to include into any existing wardrobe, but still manages to bring extra allure.
Thomas Tait at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Thomas Tait’s latest collection was the first after he received last year’s LVMH prize. This season, he showed a new kind of peacefulness with a hint of fetishism, which somehow worked out perfectly.
Oversized shirts with exaggerated collars, cuffs and pockets allowed Tait to create a distinctive silhouette that made us question femininity and the meaning of it. On the other hand, he effortlessly applied a glamorous, seventies sentiment, which made every look become sensual in a modest way. Futuristic details enhanced his slightly peculiar vision and showed that Tait is a man with a vision.
Design Museum London x Akris
click to play "Fashion Power Travel" video
Albert Kriemler, the creative director of Akris, has designed a capsule collection for the travelling woman. Inspired by modern businesswomen, he created eight items that are practical, comfortable and at the same time very stylish. Each garment is created in such a way that everything fits into a carry-on, and can be pulled out without ironing. It’s about travel and effortlessness, which is precisely what we need.
ZURICH revolves around Nina (Wende Snijders), who roams the freeways of Germany, in search for the ability to forget her past. Along the way, she meets German truck driver Matthias (Sacha Alexander Gersak), with whom she develops a relationship. Her brokenness gives the film an atmosphere, which lures you in.
Director Sacha Polak chose multitalented Wende Snijders to play the lead and wrote the role for her, which makes ZURICH Snijders’ film debut. Polak received the prestigious Berlinale Residency for her script, which was her second film. She got to work with film experts in Berlin, and premiered ZURICH at the Berlinale.
Telfar at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Telfar Clemens is a man with an opinion. As a designer, he dares to question beauty, taste and gender. His latest collection does exactly that, and brings an effortless selection of garments that fit perfectly into an urban setting.
He combines tight, knitted tees with boxy, wide leg jeans, which make the models look like construction workers that just walked out of the fifties. By cutting out fabric around the knees and on the chest, Telfar shows a good amount of skin. Some knitted pieces are assembled in such a way, that they even seem to show as much skin as they cover. Whether you agree with Telfar’s view on fashion or not, we all can agree on the fact that he has managed to bring something new to New York.
Levi’s Customized and Tapered
Levi’s iconic 501 has been a wardrobe staple for generations. Altering its distinct high waist, button-down front, red tag or peg-top leg comes amiss regarding nostalgia. What Jakob Davis and Levi Strauss started some 150 years ago was the uniform of old Hollywood bad boys such as James Dean and Marlon Brando and turned 90s girls like Shannon Doherty of “90210” fame into sexy vixens. This spring, a fresh and hip take on the so-called mom jean, with different washes, shreds and funneled legs, elevates the 501 to the zeitgeist. Astonishingly, the CT embraces all the classical features of the 501, while banishing some of the pants’ less flattering downsides. Gone are the days of super tight jeans for statuesque skinny boys and girls. Pulling the pant up to the waist retains the sexy slim-leg silhouette while a classic regular fit can be achieved by pulling down the waistband a bit. Getting one a size larger achieves the über-comfy boyfriend fit. Each pair can be altered further, either with tried and tested sanding paper and scissors, or appliques, makers and all things imaginable to truly make this must-have your own.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Kenzo’s geek went intergalactic this season, all aliens and anoraks with a street sensibility.
Sonorous hues were muddied, thrust off-key to droning ochres and teals. Combat jackets were cuffed with ribbed thumbholes, while fingerless gloves slipped subversively under slim-fit boiler suits. Flight bomber jackets were pulled by plummy claret tones, topped by chubby fur collars, all the shades of a splendidly sickly rainbow.
Drawstring bags were rustled from rigid vinyl leathers, plasticky and grooved like a twist-tie sack. Marled knits were basted together with blue bootlace wools, an orderly striped patchwork, profound with a plush grain – the letters ‘UFO’ emblazoned in a ‘found’ appliqué alphabet. Devoré velvets carried sunburst hues, puddling over pilot jackets that snatched above striped woollen flares, while hairy fur coats emerged in a monstrous green. Acrid orange denims were marbled by an acidic wash, while ski suits and sweaters were scrawled in batik insignia. Dense leather skins bore a steely silver grain, capes cloaking bodies like tailored reflective blankets or trickling to the floor in the form of baggy pants. Now we’re more than ready to enter the space age.
KRISVANASSCHE at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The difficulty with skinny slim line tailoring is that is struggles to ward off the inevitable comparisons to Mod, its own merits forever eclipsed by those of its doppelganger. Kris van Assche’s, on the other hand, delivered far more than mere pastiche.
The sheen of a silver-grey suit set a simple canvas, invigorated by a peppering of a forest-green polo neck, almost futuristic in cartoonish clean-cut jersey. Fluid geometrics played out across the surface of sweaters, rounded shapes puddling in inky off-hues. Shirts, too, obeyed a strict simplicity, an unsullied ice blue dotted with a plummy silk inset, while black wool coats were accosted by a splodges of grass green satin.
Pinstripes and parkas recalled the said Mod, but were vamped up with a slick sheen, their proportions inflated; fur-lined coats were cropped and bulbous, their characteristic combat greens traded in for a cheaper and flashier pea-green model – and all the fresher for it. Cigarette pants were swapped for flares, sweeping over sturdy leather sneakers for a modern mod uniform.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Anyone who doubts that plainness can be plush has not yet seen Haider Ackermann’s offering for FW15. Silhouette was strictly stripped-back, any extras pared-down, leaving the remains of a very opulent sartorial skeleton.
Peachy velvets gleamed in redolent hues – teals and burnt oranges against full-bodied Beaujolais; none was safe from its sumptuous pile, skinny pant suits and longline blazers, crew neck sweaters and opulent bombers. Supple leather pants rumpled at the ankles, cinched at the waist by a rubbery black biker jacket and topped by a chunky fisherman knit. Fringed scarves, meanwhile, tied the look to debonair decadence, draped over a leopard skin coat or satin-lined smoking jacket. All the while tattered tank tops and beanies saved the collection from timeworn pastiche – a contrast that was as resolutely modern as it was irresistibly charming.
Malaikaraiss at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Boy meets girl this season at Malaikaraiss, and under the cult credibility of Reality Bites, the collection’s core point of reference.
In-line with inspiration, the finished product was suitably cool, ruffled layers decked in passive buff tones, texture instrumental to the sense of brooding depth. Ribbed polo necks peeped from under sleeveless silk dresses, hues turned down to a mellow saturation, save for the unctuous burst of a mustard heel. Color was rationed, meaning when it emerged, it was all the more ripe and redolent for its restriction, in deep plummy wines, ochre and cerise. Mensy shirts and safari jackets were cloaked over broad-line culottes and partnered with bleach-white cowboy boots, their lack of elaboration almost sterile, yet effortlessly avant-garde. As the premise so specified, the collection was rife with contradictions; slim cuts appeared beguilingly baggy, high-necks seemed slack, all the while asymmetric hems tailed off from the formality normally dictated by silk – not least when paired with lightly-studded leggings. Double-denim brought a touch of the teen, but somewhat more erudite in its regulation wash, brilliantly bland in sparseness and symmetry. If reality bites, there’s a delightful diversion to be found in Malaikaraiss.
Sopopular at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Sopopular had clearly been mixing with the wrong crowd this season, bearing all the markers of the tough tribe with the bullet-hole knits and bomber jackets in a plethora of panther-black leather.
Three-quarter length pants in felted wool crumpled up at the midriff, waistbands folding over like neat paper bags. Crew neck sweaters were glossed in a sable sharkskin sheen or decked in chunky rope, each an understated elaboration, yet resounding in their effect.
Winning friends through dominion? Sopopular will show you how.
Narrow collar shirts emerged in all-over ebony leather, while cropped tracksuit bottoms assumed similarly supple skins. Macintosh raincoats and capes were sapped of all pigment, their parchment-paper translucence layered over an ink-black uniform, making way for fuzzy plush dressing-gown coats, knotted nonchalantly at the middle.
Scugnizzi by Brett Lloyd
‘Scugnizzi’, the title of photographer Brett Lloyd’s new book, refers to the local kids in Naples who spend their summers hanging out on the city’s poorest beaches.
The Neapolitans are far from shy; they embrace themselves and their bodies, making for perfect photographic subjects. Over two summers, Lloyd captured these youths and their older peers, creating a catalogue of alluring, emotive and highly personal mementos.
‘Scugnizzi’, published by 'Dashwood Books NYC', will be launched on 10 December, 2014, at the ‘Donlon Books’ in London.
Berlin Art Film Festival
'Nan Goldin - I Remember Your Face' (2014) Sabine Lidl, languages: English, German, subtitles: English
The first ever edition of the Berlin Art Film Festival will reveal a new side to the always-bustling metropolis. Privately funded and organised by the people behind the 'Stil in Berlin' blog, the four-day festival will show more than 30 films (“from poetry to porn”), all of which are either in English or with English subtitles. What's more, a number of filmmakers and actors will also be present for the screenings and the two panel discussions.
The highlights include 'An Interview With an Artist', a short film about an American artist (played by film professor and curator Marc Siegel), who would much rather talk about underwear than anything substantial, and 'Ich Will Mich Nicht Künstlich Aufregen / Asta Upset', which tells the story of a young and fairly secure art curator in Berlin, still trying to figure it out.
'I Remember Your Face', the Sabine Lidl-directed documentary about controversial photographer Nan Goldin, will close the festival. The film will also see its German premiere.
Berlin Art Film Festival: 4 – 7 December, 2014
'An Interview With an Artist' (2011) Telémachos Alexiou, language: English, no subtitles
'Asta Upset' (2014) Max Linz, languages: German/ English, subtitles: English/German
Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2017
Fluffy fur - fake fur - in a deep shade of lilac, literally covering the sits, walls, columns and the grand stairways of the spectacular concrete architecture of Palais d’Ièna designed by pioneer Auguste Perret for the Exposition Universelle held in 1937.
Miuccia Prada is not new to strong statements during dark times like the current political atmosphere. And she does it in the most dramatic and fun way we have known her for. For Fall Winter 2017 Miu Miu’s girl is covered with fake fur of all the possible sorbet colours: lemon, papaya, green apple, vanilla, tangerine. Mix-matched with sultry embellished silk gowns in soft powder pink and multicolour sporty striped knitwear.
A powerful woman who is not afraid to show off her girly femininity. Miuccia Prada knows how to energize a tired crowd at the end of an intense fashion week calendar. It was all about that: being positive, energetic, alive. Wrapping oversized fuzzy coats, at times embellished with bejewelled belts, but also matching furry caps, and obviously the spectacular portfolio of accessories to give the final blow. It’s pure glamour, a bit 40s, a bit 70s. It’s Miu Miu on the nth degree and we cannot but love it.
Mugler Fall/Winter 2017
Natasha Poli storming the catwalk in a blue patent leather blazer with arched shoulders and slim pantsuit. The atmosphere was fierce and as the models powerfully marched in one after the other, the message that creative director David Koma surely had in mind was clear: effortless and daring, Mugler’s woman will not be unnoticed.
Don’t be mistaken: this is a powerful and confident woman who will embrace her body, in all the declinations, with no fear.
David Koma created a collection constellated mainly with evening looks. Vertiginous minidresses with cut-out star details at the bottom hemline or embroidered on the bodice, hourglass silhouettes with pleated lamé in acid green and electric blue, a long white gown with pleated contrast silver lamé. But also power suits with sharp sculptural shoulders in contrasting colours, pants-blazer combo in white, silver, black.
The last look, a dress deconstructing the idea of a smoking suit into an evening gown, said it all: Koma is in search of reinventing the house codes, keeping the identity of this iconic brand strong.
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2017
The Faun, the nomads, the young rebels. But also the aristocracy and new gracious creatures. Jun Takahashi’s imaginary world for Undercover Fall Winter 2017 had the feeling of a long distant fairy tale fostering castles and princesses with gargantuan costumes and an ethereal atmosphere.
Like voices from afar, whispering a secret message, the sound of wind chimes as hung to push the spirits away, turning at the very end in a mesmerizing voice, singing on an incredible piano melody. Radiohead Thom Yorke’s fantasy, created ad oc for the show, was the perfect stage for Takahashi’s Utopia.
It was not just a spectacle. It was a beautiful collection where the clothes stood strong, masterly styled, layered and carefully balanced. Knitwear in long dresses, tunics and sculptural coats as out from Coppola’s brash “Marie Antoinette”. Fur trimmed puffa jackets and long velvet skirts. Sweatshirts with metal studs, embroidered with unicorns and insects. A beautiful crimson red, moss green, shades of cerulean blue and a bold yellow, painted this beautiful story. A story of humanity itself. The platform shoes and boots, reminiscent of the faun’s goat legs pushed this narrative image even further, in an enchanting atmosphere.
The Undercover show was a breeze of fresh air during a fashion week heavily politicised.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2017: Forging Frontiers
Nicolas Ghesquière had one goal in mind for his Fall/Winter 2017 collection as head of Louis Vuitton – pushing boundaries like the legendary French fashion house has been doing since its 1854 beginnings. Frontiers are meant to be broken down and Louis Vuitton has been at the forefront of innovation, know-how, design and travel, all elements that set it apart from its counterparts are continue to characterise its offerings every season.
Ghesquière wanted to re-create that very sense of boundarylessness that doubled as more of a directional seasonal messages rather that an array of options for city living. This was an evocation of the nomadic, where the city blends with distant landscapes, the masculine blurs with the feminine and Louis Vuitton heritage meets a thirst for the future. A new play of stylistic lines emerges: great American sportswear classics and Slavic accents, inspirations from fashions of the past translated into the world of today, urban classics fused with the magnetic pull of folklore.
This may come as no surprise but beautifully-treated leather was central to this collection: super polished or crackled giving the impression of age and wear. What was perhaps more noteworthy is the attention that designer paid to fur this season. Short-sleeved, patch-worked jackets were paired with relaxed, cropped flares but could up the ante when thrown over an evening dress.
Ghesquière's evening wear offering moved away from last season's dramatic naked dresses. He opted instead for knee-length slip dresses with elaborate pleats, lace insets, sheer details and fabrics with clashing prints in an attempt to infuse the collection with an easy-going, laid-back attitude.
Raf Simons presents his Fall 2017 collection for Calvin Klein
Raf Simons' debut collection for Calvin Klein was a hotly-anticipated event in this year's New York Fashion Week calendar.
Remaining true to his allegiances, Simons enlisted the help of friend and artist Sterling Ruby, giving him free reign to imagine artwork appropriate for the iconic brand's headquarters. Ruby imagine America.
Raf Simons and Calvin Klein Creative Director, Pieter Mulier created a collection that featured both women's and menswear for Fall 2017 and is in itself an homage to America. “It reflects the environment” said Mr. Simons. “All of these different people with different styles and dress codes. It's the future, the past, Art Deco, the city, the American West... all of these things and none of these things. Not one era, not one thing, not one look. It is the coming together of different characters and different individuals, just like America itself. It is the unique beauty of emotion in America.”
This was a collection in which each piece communicated with the rest; one material impacted another and one style impacted the upcoming ones even in the same silhouettes making for a collection that echoes the essence of diversity.
Marching band uniforms, plastic coated protection, power broker tailoring and antique handcrafted quilting, workwear and westernwear made for this unique parade. The collection finds equal merit in folk and function, food court and courtroom in a romantic and filmic outsider's view of the uniqueness of America.
Philipp Plein Autumn/Winter 2017
Brooklyn-born rap and hip hop artist Nas, opened Phillip Plein's Autumn/Winter 2017 fashion show in the iconic New York Public Library. The show was a personal love letter to the city's neighbourhoods and the diversity that characterises them, highlighting their ability to shape and define an identity. From the Bronx and Chelsea to Queens and the Upper East side, every area has something to offer.
“Neighbourhood Kings” was emblazoned across the collections' garments – it does not matter where you come from, for Philipp Plein, you are the king of your own hood. A diverse cast of personalities and models – including rappers Desiigner and Fetty Wap - strutted down the runway as The Kills performed an electrifying live set.
Music, style, gender and race all had their say in this collection that did not distinguish between men's and womenswear: the girls wear boy's T-shirts and oversized hoodies while the boy's were styles in women's jackets and dresses. Streetwear and couture are also fused together: an embroidered evening dress was paired with a bomber jacket, there was an intarsia mink coat worn with a hoodie and thigh-high sneakers marched alongside heeled boots. Catering to self-expression and their own personal sense of style, the collection's strength lies in its bid to highlight individuality.
But Plein's ode to the Big Apple did end there: the prints also tell a tale of New York. Symbols from dollar pill comprise the print of a hooded fur coat, the Statue of Liberty and FBI (“Fashion Beyond Imagination” patches decorate sweaters and bombers. Floor-length puffer coats and snakeskin jackets are transformed into urban armour thanks to metallic details and the addition of studs.
Lala Berlin's Persian Punk revolution
Lala Berlin's Fall/Winter 2017 collection epitomises the metropolis of Berlin in an anarchic big-city chic way with a fresh attitude. Thus is born an ode to the unconventional yet elegant women that reinvented themselves as Persian punks.
Beautiful arts and crafts in architecture and textiles are the inspirations for a wardrobe that mixes punk and ethnic elements in such an authentic and modern way. A boheme and avant-garde style is conveyed in a variety of silhouettes from H-lines to flowy A-silhouettes and oversized asymmetric overlays. Feminine cuts, kimonos and tunic dresses give birth to the Lala’s punk-chic evening wear.
The color palette fades within dark chic colors like khaki, dark red, ink blue and black mixed with warm saffron yellow and cream interjected with vibrant and lush elements from middle eastern traditional art. Vibrant print ideas are reimagined in Berlin 80’s punk fused with Persian décor and floral elements are transformed into something new and fresh that reminds us of a mosaic print.
Frayed edges and star lace trimmings give a certain sense of poetic punk bohemia to dresses, skirts and shirting. Knits, iconic elements of Lala’s wardrobe that incorporate jacquards with frayed details are a sumptuous tapestry of textures.
The Persian punk girl gets out her Dr. Martens and leather accessories to inspire an anarchic revolution, to think about the future while redefining her style and inspiring change for the better.
JUUN.J Fall/Winter 2017
As the models stormed inside Universite Rene Decartes’s suggestive neoclassic space, and the fluid body of Juun J’s work floated around, we caught the power of history. The history of this brand evolved within the last ten years into an acclaimed fashion forward entity. for this celebratory collection Juun J - in name of a decade spent imagining the future of his eponymous label - choose the emblematic subtitle: “Archive”.
Oversized long sweaters, heavy, massive, almost suffocating in all their fierce presence. The architectural outwear, the brand's signature trench coat and the MA1 bomber jacket. All the iconic pieces of Juun J’s past collections, in a splendid parade, as an ode to this Korean designer who has influenced the wardrobe of boys and girls in recent years. The girl who has been wearing Juun J forever and who got a special place in the future course: the new Juun J will have from now on feature a Womenswear collection.
And so the oversized cargo pants transformed into high waist long skirts with maxi pockets on the hips and slits on both sides which will be a hot piece for next season. Khaki, military green, black, white and pin-striped blue: the palette focused on the brand’s favoured colours. The large parachute hooded outwear with a myriad of swinging straps were certainly the protagonists, underlined in the closing act when all the possible declinations marched in, as if to suggest the impetuous movement and space of Juun J in the upcoming decade.
NEW TENDENCY x Meiré und Meiré
New Tendency showed its 2017 product innovations at the Meiré und Meiré Factory.
The Bauhaus tradition has influenced the development process of everyday contemporary objects for New Tendency. Their furnishings serve to compose an ideal setting for modern working environments. With the emergence of co-working spaces, New Tendency have picked up on the need of flexible and functional configurations and strive to inspire those who are surrounded by their creations in their daily lives and their professional environments.
Showcasing their work in one of the leading creative agencies in Germany was therefore a natural progression.
Among other objects, New Tendency presented its December Edition at the Meiré und Meiré factory, a line that was the result of a fruitful collaboration with the agency, furthering their devotion to creative partnerships. The Artist's Edition of the lamp served as the inspirational springboard for the creation of New Tendency's premium line, Black Label that will soon be expanded to include more exclusive pieces with clear geometrical components.
Raw structures, industrial materials and natural elements formed the perfect hybrid framework for New Tendency's minimalist yet progressive designs. The presentation at the Meiré und Meiré factory didn't treat New Tendency's furnishings as conventional exhibits; they were instead integrated in the agency's daily goings-on serving as both a working space and a meeting point.
For New Tendency's exhibition at the Meiré und Meiré Factory, Mike Meire grouped the December edition pieces with side tables from the META line to create an island in the middle of the space. The installation was staged on raw concrete and stone slabs between dry plants, paint buckets and cardboard boxes. Fluorescent lights floated above it, different colours and textures of plastic foil sheets hanging over the top. The industrial ensemble was characterised by deliberately rudimentary fragmented elements that served as a beautiful contrast to the high-end claim of the products on display.
In the age of digitalisation, where products are becoming increasingly perfect Mike Meiré felt the need to infuse the products with textural and tactile elements proposing 'Brutalism x Redefining Nature' and paying tribute to Le Corbusier's New Brutalism.
Esther Perbandt's androgynous Fall/Winter 2017 collection
Perbandt's anti-cyclical collection for the colder seasons featured visionary garments that play with the slightest of contrast between black and white and gender. The designer is famous for touching upon human limitations delicately, forgetting about diversity and giving birth to a brand that strikes the perfect balance between androgyny and independence.
Esther Perbandt has been internationally recognised for her trademark stage productions. The Fall/Winter 2017 show only reinforced her status with a veritably unconventional yet sophisticated event that attracted celebrities from around the globe as well as personalities from the world of design, art and fashion; collectively they paid homage to a powerful production.
BILLIONAIRE Fall/Winter 2017: Texas under spotlights
Once upon a time, soap opera characters served as primary sources of style inspiration and this season Billionnaire by Philipp Plein travelled back in time to pick up the trend. Remember Dallas?
Set in Texas, the show reached cult phenomenon status and was Philipp Plein's moodboard for Fall/Winter 2017. The Billionnaire man is a wealthy and stylish globetrotter: skiing in Aspen and gambling in Monte Carlo. The collection reflects the attitude of a character that isn't shy about showing off his personality.
Snakeskin jackets, chinchilla bombers and full-length overcoats feature alongside astrakhan and crocodile skins as the ultimate statements of elegance whether on the slopes or in the city. Trousers are high-waisted and denim takes centre stage in trousers and double-breasted jackets.
From knitwear to eveningwear the attention to detail is meticulous, fully conveying Plein's references: classic Texan hat included!
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2017: Between High Fashion and Mother Nature
The uneven fight between humans against a powerful and merciless nature is the chore of Jil Sander's latest collection that brings us an incredible taste of glacial novelty for the upcoming Fall/Winter season.
Inspired by 'Independent People' by Nobel Prize winning author Halldor Laxness, the collection plays with the colors of Icelandic landscapes ranging from chalk grey to yellow. Shades of ice, brown and lava are chosen to give life to coats, parkas, heavy felts and comfortable shapes designed to face the harsh temperatures of Nordic winter in style. Military cotton and heat-sealed waterproof wool make coats and blousons, put together by big Velcro stripes.The collection's prints are a new take on glitch art that plays with disintegrated images.
“Rather keep your mind free and your path your own”said Laxness, and Jil Sander looks to have learned the lesson perfectly.
A sporty-chic Z ZEGNA at PITTI 2017
The latest Z Zegna collection takes you on a vintage ski trip for Pitti Uomo 2017, a sporty-chic mood that nobody expected but many welcomed.
It is no secret that the Florence fashion fair was created to bring innovation and prêt à porter all around the world and Zegna knows that well. For the first time the Italian brand presented a line that combines tailoring and performance evolution. For the slopes and the streets, the proposal is a Techmerino total look that takes a quintessential role in this season where layering is key. A foundation of matte black, optical woolen, asphalt grey mélange, light camel and pine leaf green in combination with sportswear graphics take us back to the late 70’s ski seasons in Sankt Moritz where sport never strays too far from fashion and elegance.
The brand decided to converge comfort and excellence in a savvy colour palette that pays tribute to the textile innovation Z Zegna is known for.
Colette x UNDEFETEAD: the hypes’ sneaker exchange
The hype around sneakers has never been so present. Parisian it store Colette, one of Europe's biggest go-to destinations for street-wear designer apparel has partnered with LA-based label UNDEFEATED for the much-anticipate “Sneaker Exchange”. Included in the exchange are no less than 84 brands like Bodega, END, Kith and Slam Jam just to name a few.
Two limited edition and revamped Adidas sneakers to be launched during Paris Fashion Week will be part of this January's exchange. The redesigned editions of iconic models, the Campus 80 and EQT Support. The Campus 80 is bright, in white leather with a royal blue heel while the EQT Support's darker influences are manifested through its deep navy blue shades.
Both models are playing with the concept of opposites, pairing and simultaneously contrasting influences, ideas and cultural currencies, personifying perfectly the concept of the exchange.
The Givenchy Tribe
Givenchy's latest campaign has just been released and the abundance of the brand's signature codes do not go unnoticed. Shot by photographers Mert and Marcus and designed as a double page spread, the campaign plays on the concept of duality and features powerful men and women whose intrepid natures manage to withstand space and time.
A well-balanced blend of feminine and masculine elements that remain classic and chic are the focal points of the campaign. Two girls become twins by dressing identically and a boy plays fashion chameleon by rocking a formal and a streetwear look in a Mars-like landscape. Pair the adventurous nature of the above with the tightly cropped portraits of Givenchy's personality gang and you are given the impression that, although they appear different they do in fact to belong to the same style-savvy tribe.
Of course, Givenchy's now iconic Horizon and Cross Body bags could not be left out of the equation. Serving as a mark of recognition for the brand, their presence encapsulates the luxury label's long-standing fame while looking towards a future of duality.
K•Swiss Turns Camo for its 50th anniversary
K•Swiss opted for a stylish celebration for its anniversary. The sportswear brand teamed up with Japanese street fashion label AAPE BY A BATHING APE to launch a limited edition collection.
For the occasion, the American tennis brand turns its classic '66 model into a fashionable camouflage sneaker featuring, its now famous, ape-inspired pattern. This makes for a fresh, new take on the brand's most iconic silhouette.
K•Swiss’ signature five stripes, classic D-rings and the unique three-piece toe design along with an all-covering printed pattern fuse together to creates a blend that reflects the DNA of both K•Swiss and AAPE.
Coach and The Webster: between ready-to-wear and Baseman’s designs
Many were the brands that presented their upcoming collections at Miami Art Basel, but it was Coach’s collaboration with The Webster and artist Gary Baseman that transformed it in a special universe of fashion pieces and design sketches.
To celebrate the arrival of the Women’s pre-spring collection and an exclusive preview of the Men’s Spring 2017, the three joined forces to create customized objects based on Baseman characters and his signature “Wildbeast” print.
American iconography is reflected all over the collections through juxtaposing unexpected images and familiar, nostalgic themes. Moreover, at the heart of the project a tougher take on masculinity takes over, celebrating those who are brave and bold enough to subvert conventions and status quo.
During the event, Baseman, gave attendees a sneak peek of the collection’s mood, hand-painting three one-of-a-kind motorcycle jackets.
Exclusive design for an exclusive experience.
Blind for Love book: the latest Gucci’s treat
Nick Waplington and his unfiltered camera have been enlisted by Gucci to bring the brand's latest project, Blind For Love by Gucci, to life.
Alessandro Michele’s Cruise 2017 collection, presented last June in London's Westminster Abbey, will be the star of the coffee table book for all the designer’s affectionate disciples. Candid and behind-the-scene pictures, from one of the Michele's most memorable fashion shows, will capture the fresh touch of the young designer, who is expanding the Italian brand’s horizons.
The British photographer Nick Waplington, who in past years signed the “Working Process” book with Alexander McQueen, is ready to surprise again with this fashion reportage dedicated to the English punk-rock culture.
Blind for Love tells the story of Waplington’s visionary taste and Gucci’s know-how, all in one book. It's the story of what’s behind the glittering world of fashion, a story that will turn everyone…Blind for Gucci.
Prince Claus Fund Gallery welcomes El Anatsui: Meyina
As of the 24th of November and as part of its continuing mission to collaborate with artists from backgrounds where opportunities for cultural expression and creative production are limited, Amsterdam's Prince Claus Fund Gallery will be hosting El Anatsui's Meyina exhibition.
Curated by independent curator and founder of the Centre for Contemporary Art – Lagos, Bisi Silva, Meyina paints a portrait of the artist that brings together disparate fragments that form a whole. The exhibition includes an array of materials from the artist's workspaces and past collaborations.. Sketchbooks, drawings and letters offer a unique glimpse into Anatsui's creative process.
The Ghanaian artist transforms found materials into large shimmering forms by assembling elements into vibrant patterns with a unique visual impact. Large-scale assemblages of thousands of pieces of aluminium sourced from alcohol recycling stations, are sewn together with copper resulting in an interesting texture that resembles woven cloth. El Anatsui's visually impactful cloth-like wall sculpture serve as contemporary commentary on African history, colonialism, post-colonial reality and the daily reality the continent faces.
In the exhibition the concept of a limitless horizon, an immersive space where possibilities become real resonates. The artist's dedication to exploring political and environmental issues through his work's raw materials has established him as a staunch defender of artistic freedom and an inspiration in the development of the visual arts in Africa.
Paraphrasing Ghanaian author Kofi Anyidoho, Anatsui states that, 'when I am in the studio it is as if the sky bends down to have a word with the earth.'
The exhibition, launched as part of Amsterdam Art Weekend, will run until April 28th 2017 at the Prince Claus Fund Gallery.
The Pareo - Miu Miu's revolutionary skirt
Miu Miu's Resort 2016 collection features the “Pareo skirt”. This journey-inspired design makes heads turn and conversations start making it one of the collection's stand-out pieces.
With patterns that evoke 90s rave culture, this skirt strives to be infinitely adaptable, audacious and representative of the Miu Miu girl's independent spirit. She travels the world, she rejects formality and she makes her own rules.
This light-hearted take on such a long-established garment is what gives it its democratic feel. Already well-loved in continents as diverse as Asia and Africa, it is seen worn by both men and women, further accentuating the beauty of gender fluidity.
“Pareo” is packaged in a special soft fabric envelope stamped with the iconic Miu Miu logo, as to leave the indelible mark of brand’s revolutionary spirit in our wardrobe.
Uniqueness is this skirt's keyword: no two people need ever wear it in quite the same way.
Ermenegildo Zegna Mayfair store – A modern tribute to tradition
London's Bond Street has been the home of the Ermenegildo Zegna's flagship store since 1987 and yesterday, after a lengthy renovation project, it re-opened its doors to the public. An ode to the brand's use of quality materials, integrity and modern style, the new store is the product of a fruitful collaboration between Zegna and architect Peter Marino.
Among classic modernist art pieces that convey the timelessness of Italian style and design, a specially-commissioned wall tapestry by William Kentridge, provides a snapshot of the company's centennial progress. The South-African artist used portraits of the founder and elements inspired by key moments in the brand's journey, successfully bridging the gap between tradition and modernity.
Additionally, a nine piece bespoke men's shoes collection will be exclusively available at the London flagship store. Designed by artistic director Alessandro Sartori, models range from casual to biker boots – all of them inspired by nine personalities close to Sartori's heart. The Bespoke Shoe Collection represents the best in modern luxury while allowing the modern man to adopt an elevated approach to his individual style.
Toni & Niklas Garrn announce EQL
#samesamenotdifferent, the hashtag for sibling design duo Toni and Niklas Garnn’s EQL unisex collection in collaboration with Closed. Twelve exclusive pieces ranging from size x-small to x-large, offering sporty, chic and classic designs. Back in 2008 Toni Garnn started out modelling for Closed and sat behind the design table six years later. She has now joined forces with her brother Niklas to create the genderless collection, proposing contemporary, minimalistic and comfortable fashion. Following the current zeitgeist, with gender slowly fading, as well as always having swapped clothes, equality is an important topic for the Garnn siblings. “EQL stands for a particular attitude as well as for the lifestyle that we both live: sophisticated, uncomplicated, open and free,” Niklas says.
CHANEL Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
For Chanel Spring Summer 2017 Karl Lagerfeld delivered a youthful collection. The models sported a baseball hat with side ponytails and candy glowing make up. A bad-ass attitude versus romantic echoes. Girlish yet elaborate with its high-tech masterful fabrics.
The show at Grand Palais was set again in a grandiose installation, this time emulating a data centre – one of those places where you would imagine Mr.Robot emerging.
Along the exposed wires on server racks, floating dresses with a kaleidoscope of colours, mini skirts, white plissé silk garments with ruffles, all adorned with crystal jewellery and pixelated handbags. Although we feel continuously overwhelmed by the everyday technology and data flow, Karl Lagerfeld’s cyberspace is a bright utopia. Robot headpieces included.
Woolrich opens flagship store in Antwerp
Woolrich has opened its first Belgian store in Antwerp, the centre of design and fashion. This marks the beginning of the expansion of Woolrich across Europe, with 75 new stores opening over the next three years. The Woolrich store in Antwerp is located on the Schuttershofstraat, a new home for luxury brands. Its interior blends contemporary furnishing with classical Belgian traits, lending inspiration from creative director Masamichi Katayama, but sticking to Belgian heritage. The Creative Director Andrea Canè says: ”Woolrich has grown exponentially in Belgium in the few last years. The opening of a flagship store in this particular moment in time makes communication with our customer not only simpler but also direct and allows us to bring the world of Woolrich to Belgium.”
Balenciaga Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
We have seen it for quite some time now. Big shoulders, oversized garments tightened on the waist and the crazy most wanted item by stylists: the sock-boots. It’s the Demna Gvasalia fever. Bringing in some of the hot themes that punched Vetements to the top, Gvasalia explored that aesthetic for Balenciaga Spring Summer 2017 collection, staying true to his vision. As the boot elevates now till the waist becoming a pant all in one, the trench coats and jackets have a sharper silhouette and 80s shoulders line boned. The lavish bejewelled draped tops in one of the most un-couture material – Spandex, the vivid palette of flowers prints and the latex capes with hoods reinforced that fetish underground 80s vibes. For its second collection as creative director at the iconic French house, the young designer stepped away from that boxy look of last season to create a sleek architecture, conferring an even more powerful effect. It’s a vocabulary that Gvasalia knows well and used it since its work at Maison Martin Margiela. Pushing boundaries, elevating streetculture mixed now with the intelligent subtle reference to Balenciaga heritage.
Acne Studios Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Layered scarves to form long dresses so light you could fly and the bond to that cool atmosphere that Acne built its history on.
Acne Studios Spring 2017 is experimenting once again away from the brand roots reflecting the aim of the house to grow on the luxury level. We saw oversized beautiful knitwear inspired by African blankets with unfinished look. Pulled threads and raw hems, with earth colours conferring that cool look to more tailored and minimalist pieces.
The Denim is one of the key items. Stone washed and then deep dyed offering a soft touch and beautiful colours as of pale gems. Denim dungarees and coats inspired by kimonos with paisley or flower embroidery ton sur ton combined with scarves hanging from the waist. But also the evergreen Acne look of beautiful and contemporary suits.
Fresh, relaxed and youthful. A summer spent in Amalfi coast, a sunset on a boat wearing just a long dress and a sun-kissed skin. Acne’s creative director Jonny Johansson impressed us with his ability to bring new air keeping Acne’s deep identity.
WUNDERKIND Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The Wunderkind woman has an elusive way about her, throwing her beat out of rhythm in such a way that she will never be caught. Credit to the off-center eye of Wolfgang Joop, who throws together the jagged references we see before us for SS17: prairie purged of all its hollow nostalgia, headed firmly for the future with foiled leather Western boots, op art silks and gauzy tulles so slight they trace the surface of the skin. Granted, the citations at play are erratic, but their ordering is anything but… Racer cuts quell their sporty sensibility by sheathing the body in ice white mesh, asserting its elegance with ruffled peplums and knife pleats, or romantic Victoriana smocks. Cold shoulder collared shirts gleamed in sparkly lurex, their billowing sleeves offset by the cinched waist of a peach swing skirt. Belts bolstered bodies with oversized buckles and austere cotton corsetry – a hard edge to the ruffled tiers that trapezed the torso, halterneck dresses neatly buttoned to the top while wraped layers unfurled from the hips. If the wild florals felt a little too predictable, Joop’s alternative vie for femininity felt entirely futuristic, inflating shoulders and sharpening hips to file his army of extra-terrestrial bodies.
Y/Project Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Presented in the suggestive location of the Lycée Charlemagne, Y/Project Spring Summer 17 was full of youthful energy. Glenn Martens presented a collection played around the boundaries of oversized and tight, low and high, light and dark. From his signature denim to the opulent crashed velvet. There were oversized sleeves, cut out pants with a detachable gather, and a multitude of transformable garments: adjustable corsets worn as a ruffled decoration over knits, pants you can just button up at the leg side, peek-a-boo shirts and long dresses to be laced up. It is a collection built to the last detail and Martens proved to be a master constructing layers played around volumes, a fun cool-kid attitude and a feminine subtle sensual vibe.
The Kurfürstendam in Berlin has welcomed the opening of the latest Ermenegildo Zegna store Inspired by architect Peter Marino’s creative vision for Zegna’s international stores, the brand’s in-house architects developed and created the new boutique. Its interior resembles a fuse of soft and structure, as its colour palette includes rosewood, mahogany as well as gun and bronze metal. Exclusively available in the Berlin store is the Su Misura service, offering the consumer the opportunity to select their preferred style, fabric and accessories.
NEU NOW Festival 2016
60 emerging talented artists from 18 different countries and a programme filled with design, architecture, performance, film, music and artist talks. The 8th edition of NEU NOW festival will open from 14th to the 18th September, located at the Westergasfabriek. The international art festival celebrates upcoming creatives and spawns career opportunities, providing support for imminent artists throughout the year. On the night of the 17th, in collaboration with Warteiner, the European League of Institutes of the Arts' initiative NEU NOW invites visitors to a late-night programme with drink and music, provided by deadHYPE and Jo Goes Hunting.
BALLY AW16 Campaign
Emerging London based photographer Jack Davison captures youthful eccentricities in the BALLY AW16 campaign, featuring a dynamic cast of eight models, including the Guinevere Van Seenus, Finnlay Davis and Dutch model Ina Maribo Jensen. The images portray the nature of an artists’ studio in the 70s. As Davison seizes the individual and different personalities, he is also able to unite them in their spirit, prominent in current and future BALLY collections. “What fascinates me about Jack’s work is his ability to capture intimacy in his portraits; because it is about real emotions," Design Director Pablo Coppola says of the collaboration with the young photographer, while Davison reveals; “I trust in the moment, go into the situation and let myself be guided by my instincts.”
Swarovski Member of Fashion Council Germany
Swarovski is the newest member of The Fashion Council Germany, which was founded last year to be an advocate for and mentor to German fashion designers. One of these designers is Vienna-born Marina Hoermannseder, who has in three years gained fans like singer Lady Gaga with her orthopaedic corsets. Marina’s latest collection included a corsage and skirt embellished with crystals, which was made through a collaboration with six other designers who created a special collection using Swarovski crystals. The Council’s Chairman is Vogue Editor-In-Chief Christiane Arp, who said; “It is important to help design talent get more attention. We are delighted to have the support of Swarovski for our talent development initiative.”
Diesel Black Gold Resort 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad has mixed an early nineties mood with Diesel Black Gold’s known utilitarian style, creating Resort 2017. Styled with gladiator boots and black pointy biker shoes to keep a clean cut and metropolitan spirit, the collection adapts new proportions that allow masculine shapes to appeal more feminine. Layering of skirts over long shirts, off-the-shoulder biker jackets and poplin dresses are this seasons’ statement look. For its men’s collection, Melbostad experiments with parachute trousers made from trench fabric, but keeps a utilitarian feel with bomber and denim jackets and sweatshirts, a sportswear essential.
Tim Coppens Spring/Summer 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 is for Belgian designer Tim Coppens influenced by traditional Japanese dress, with references as the incorporated judo-style belts and kimono-inspired prints on bomber jackets. The collection also references Coppens’ 90s upbringing and the skate scene with colour blocked sports gear, yet sticks to Coppens’ signature tailoring and use of technical fabrics. Introduced in this collection is Tim Coppens original footwear, a line of structurally cut, leather sneakers. This will be available from next spring.
Diesel Black Gold FW16 Campaign
Mica Arganaraz and Louie Johnson feature in the Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, shot by Karim Sadli. Creative director Andreas Melbostad embraces Diesel Black Gold’s urban approach in the images and reveals, “Mica and Louie, through the lens of Karim, convey a strong yet understated message of individuality and confidence.” The duo is dressed in iconic outerwear pieces of the new collection, including the women’s biker cape and the men’s utility parka. Furthermore we see a mix of leather and quilted nylon.
Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux’ Dior Haute Couture collection is predominantly in black and white, which is a reflection of their relationship; it represents history and modernity and while opposites, when together it creates something greater than apart. Dior’s iconic Bar suit, tailored jacket and full skirt see the Autumn/Winter 2016/16 collection go back to its origins. The skirt was the starting point, after which Meier and Ruffieux started experimenting with the lining, draping and pleating of evening dresses and skirts.The only colour visible is gold as embroidery, which is inspired by raw art and the works of César and Claude Lalanne.
MBFW: l'VR Isabel Vollrath
Inspired by the Russian “Les Ballets Russes”, on the third day of Berlin Fashion Week we see l’VR Isabel Vollrath’s runway show. Isabel Vollrath is a Berlin Weissensee School of Art graduate, with as main focus showing that fashion is more than just gear. It’s an art form, portrays a culture, visualises a way of thinking. The collection is called “Sacre du Printemps”, which loosely translates as the Ceremony of Spring. Forest sounds start the show, with birds peacefully singing in the background, which is followed by a beat and the first looks layered with tulle. Its colour palette began with pastels and developed into coral and deep navy, while including white and black. It all sits together nicely through the use of oriental prints.
WALTZ Autumn/Winter 2016
San Francisco based women’s wear brand WALTZ’ Autumn/Winter collection for 2016 is available now. Primarily hued in oxblood, rust and midnight blue, the choice in colour palette gives the collection its autumnal feel. The collection includes timeless pieces and wardrobe staples, garments that are versatile and essential. Founded by Danielle Colen, WALTZ is a brand embracing comfort and ease in its designs, with a prominence in quality fabrics and tailoring. WALTZ is influenced by menswear silhouettes and Colen’s affection towards the East Coast, whilst also maintaining a feminine touch and blending California’s mellow vibes.
Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign
Models Simon Fitskie and Rianne Van Rompaey shine in the latest Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign, shot by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen in Sicily, Italy. The collections dark yet dynamic colour palette consisting of royal red, peacock blue and black bounces off beautifully of the paleness of the background, artistic landscape Grande Cretto Gibellina of Italian artist Alberto Burri, which is in glistening white cement. Burri created the Grande Cretto as a monument for the village Giberllina when an earthquake completely destroyed the town in 1968.
MBFW: Laurél S/S 2017
The mix between the chic and the casual is key to the Laurél S/S 2017 collection, which was first shown at the Berlin Fashion Week these days, bringing summer to the city. Above anything the collection is stunningly summery. It is all about monochrome colours. A lush blue, yellow and red allow for primal colours to contrast different black-and-white combinations. Cleanly cut garments of flowing fabrics include light blazers, flared trousers, dresses with V-necklines and jumpsuits. There is the touch of a slightly ethnic feel to the collection, pronounced in off-shoulder tops and dresses as well as tassel earrings and pom pom necklaces. Highlights are a striped black-and-white beach ensemble with flared pants and a crop top or the filigree knitted floor-length dress with slits at each side revealing the model’s long legs. While the collection makes use of stripes and symmetric patterns, it finishes with a girlish white dress, incorporating a pattern of white flowers on a sheer fabric. This is how city girls celebrate the summer.
MBFW: Hien Le Spring/Summer 2017
Showcased outdoors in a beautiful courtyard this Tuesday was the Hien Le Spring/Summer 2017 collection, at Berlin Fashion Week. The collection draws inspiration from the sculptural process, converted unto the garments through layering, cut-outs and various transparencies. Proposed is an elegant yet sporty alternative garments made from light cotton, different kinds of silk and Japanese tech textiles. The collection is elegant in its meticulous tailoring and includes sportswear elements. Hien Le has for this collection collaborated with Mini Cooper and created a limited sweater line with heart-shaped prints.
Peter Lindbergh - A Different Vision On Fashion Photography
Uma Thurman, Los Angeles, USA, 2011 Vogue Italia © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris / Gagosian Gallery)
An exhibition celebrating German photographer Peter Lindbergh’s inspiring work will open September 10th 2016 in the Kunsthal, Rotterdam. One of fashions most influential photographers with the infamous image of the 90s Supermodels, or The Big Six, on his repertoire, will make this exhibition one for the books. The gallery will have his material divided in nine different sections, including Couturiers, Dance and Icons. Lindbergh initiated bringing a narrative to fashion photography and includes a sense of realism, which in an age of excessive photo retouching changed the norms of beauty. The photographer is often referred to as the ‘Photographer of Truth’, as he rejects the concept of social status in his work. Lindbergh: ”This should be the responsibility of photographers today to free women, and finally everyone, from the terror of youth and perfection.”
The exhibition will run until February 12th 2017.
PFW: Dior Homme Spring 2017
The 80s Punk together with the New Wave scene in a modern key. Kris Van Assche fun fair for Dior Homme proposed tailored pieces, sportswear and strong punk elements interconnected in a balance of contrast. Van Assche worked his inspiration from its childhood in Antwerp and the rebellious world of those years. We see tailored jackets combined with relaxed oversized pants together with sleek slim trousers matched with bomber jackets. It's certainly a collection that plays around contradictions and opposites. Classic rigor is subverted by flashbacks of 80s subcultures with a multitude of details entirely made by the artisanal in-house team : pinstripe fray, printed flower embroidery patches and the red thread hand-sew stitching through denim, suits, knitwear, almost as recalling of a statement scar stitching - beautiful and yet painful.
Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
A focus on the new Cavalli tribe and the art of the garments is shown in the Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2016 advertising campaign, show by Tim Walker. Dressed in the men’s and womenswear pieces by the brands creative director Peter Dundas, a collection filled with embellished, embroidered and dazzlingly textured pieces. The images portray a sense of youthfulness and sensuality, as the models lay clothed in and nude covered by roses against a minimal background, giving the portraits a bohemian, yet glam rock feel.
PFW: COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
Rei Kawakubo wanted to tease with the idea of today’s world receiving too much information. Themed after Hans Christian Andersen’s Naked King’ we see the Spring/Summer 2017 collection for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, a show filled with transparent items, printed with designs made by Italian company Fornasetti and with messages such as ‘beauty is in the eye’. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collaborated with Nike Dunk style on it’s footwear for the show, a line-up of trainers in different variations of colours.
Marcelo Burlon SS17 Show
Marcelo Burlon believes in the strength of the melting pot as he is a fearless social aggregator and enthusiastic herald of the liberating power of multiculturalism. An intertwining of worlds, a convergence of polar opposites defines his credo and practice of creative director and contemporary polymath. As visually bold and culturally layered as it possibly gets, the outcome keeps a note of authenticity that comes from real-life personal experiences.
This season Marcelo Burlon embarks on a loud sonic trip across ninja iconography, metal assertiveness and outer space futurism. The germ of this new exploration of the fast-paced, high-spinning, hyper-performing, urban style comes from Burlon's childhood days spent under military dictatorship in Argentina.The collection is an ode to noise that ignites unstoppable waves of change. Under the slogan SONIDO, spelt out loud in gothic fonts, a new cultural clash happens within the County of Milan premises. Numbers and graphic weaves mix with Ninja stars and County's very own Patagonian symbols, swarming on bomber jackets, hoodies, tops and shorts.
Kimonos both long and short and sliced samurai skirts point towards the East, chain-mail and PVC nod at the future, lace-up trousers provide a slight tingle of fetish. Shapes have both an utilitarian and adventurous feel, while a profusion of embroideries adds texture and visual stimulation. Clear PVC parkas and elongated sheer vests amplify the layering of the looks. Robotic trousers, jumpsuits and multi-pocket field jackets put a combat mode into play. In his quest for the balance of opposites, Marcelo Burlon keeps celebrating the clash as the essence of now and only fuel of progress.
PFW: BALENCIAGA SPRING 2017
Heeled boots and boxy jackets, Demna Gvasalia knows how to keep things interesting. The Balenciaga Spring 2017 collection, the brands first ever men’s runway show, exhibited on the beautiful rooftop of the Lycée Saint-Louis-de-Gonzague in Paris, saw structured silhouettes and wide shoulders in coats, trousers accessorised with lengthy silver chains and cropped shirts with elastic bottom. Gvasalia said that he “wanted a feel of formality, of perfection, to everything.”
Blumarine Fall/Winter 2016/17
Nonchalant and seductive is the woman in the new Blumarine advertising campaign. She plays with the irony of her nature, effortlessly alternating strength and fragility, romanticism and carnality. Her personality is emphasized by the elegant and modern looks that simultaneously nod to the history of Blumarine.
The new Blumarine Fall/Winter 2016-17 advertising campaign describes a cinematic homecoming with Julia Hafstrom being a confident and eclectic woman shot by Inez & Vinoodh.The soft atmosphere of an atemporal and essential setting is the backdrop for the campaign that interprets the historic codes of the house with a new emphasis while contextualizing them into the present. The depth of the scene and the subtle color palette of the background bestow a vibrant and unexpected liveliness to the clothes.
MFW: MISSONI SPRING 2017
The Missoni Spring 2017 collection is heavily inspired by Guatemala, a trip Angela Missoni remembers going on with her mother when she was just 15 years old. The collection commences with contrasting tribal prints in knits and a vibrant colour palette in suits and shorts. Infused are embroidered shirts, white hats and brown pointy shoes, giving off a western feel. Missoni refers to the collection and her models as the “Gautemalan cowboys”.
MFW: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING 2017
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Spring 2017 collection is the first one since the departure of Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti. The design team chose camping as its theme and was influenced by artist Jean Arp, as his colourful drawings were seen throughout the show as printed on ties and blouses. The collection is innovative but sensible, with suits that are contemporary yet classic. The camping theme came through with the use of stylized backpacks, but also hinted at through the use of some earthy colours.
MFW: FENDI SPRING 2017
“Sun and fun”, Silvia Venturini said of the collection post-show. Rebuild is a Mediterranean villa, which results in an airy and fresh feel to the Fendi Spring 2017 collection. The garments’ details are whimsical and dynamic, the colours pleasant and lively. Pequin stripes are incorporated in a new way and the models are styled with travel bags and backpacks which indicated to the fun summer theme. Fendi has introduced its first men’s eyewear collection for this show in collaboration with Safilo.
MFW: PHILIPP PLEIN SPRING 2017
The PHILIPP PLEIN Spring 2017 collection takes it inspiration from American Basketball, complete with stylized basketball shorts and shoes, transitioning into embroidered denim, leather jackets and bombers. The German designer teamed up with Swarovski to embellish the collections sportswear pieces, creating a glam active wear collection. Starting off with hints of orange, the collection develops into solely black and white, and later back to red hues. Rapper Busta Rhymes performed, making it a real authentic PHILIPP PLEIN experience.
Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign
Eddie Redmayne takes centre stage in the new Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign. Redmayne, who is one of the of contemporary cinema’s most celebrated actors, is no stranger to immersing himself in historically significant characters. In the new menswear Prada campaign is presented the idea of the present moment itself being as a theatre of history. This idea is performed in a suite of striking portrait allusions. Redmayne, assumes a number of roles - hero, villain, revolutionary - either against a neutral grey background, or a rich red split by a romanticist view of idealized nature. Craig McDean’s pictures invoke 19th century neo-classical paintings, which famously played with surface and depth, illusion and reality. These photographs continue the spirit of the Prada Fall/Winter 2016 Menswear show, which presented an excursus through times past as a reflection on time present. Overall, the result is a contemporary masculinity that aligns worldly travel with intrepid self-knowledge and oblique, original thinking.
Acne Studios Pre-Fall 2016 Collection Available Now
Acne Studios’ Pre-Fall 2016 is available now. Satin slip dresses, plaids in contrasting colours and textures as well as the reaction of fire created in a print of torn paper makes for a vibrant and electric collection. The collection varies from camel pinstripe trousers to orange denim jackets, which gives the opportunity to explore trends and infuse new key pieces to your existing wardrobe. “I’m interested in how groups of kids mirror each other's look and wear certain items for a sense of belonging. When we put these looks together, I wanted to explore that short period where there's that tension between individuality and the group dynamic”, says Creative Director Jonny Johansson, the brands Creative Director.
LC:M Bobby Abley
A Disney-inspired runway. Theme of Bobby Abley’s collection is fictional character Aladdin, making for a fun and exciting show to watch, whilst also reminiscing to your childhood. The collection sticks to Abley’s signature sport style, with the magic carpet as pattern, jumpers and tees printed with enchanted lamps and slogans like ‘put me the right way’. The designer launched his label in 2012 and had his first show two years later scheduled through fashion initiative MAN at London Collections Men. It’s now grown into a well-established and acknowledged brand, which leaves us to say that Bobby Abley is here to stay.
LC:M Phoebe English
Presenting her men’s collection for the first time at LCM goes in true English’ fashion; models sat in a waiting room, sewing patterns on needle-point canvas to keep them busy, until it’s their time to get up and get pictures taken. The collection of all-natural fabrics, shown in the 180 The Strand Presentation Space, is created using a minimal colour palette, mainly including blue, black and white. Phoebe English revealed she is influenced by her boyfriend and male friends, who generally wear stripes, something which is visible in what she describes this romantic-utilitarian collection.
Future, Present, Past, The Strokes Travel Back In Time
It has been pretty quiet from the American indie-rock band front in recent years, however the wait for new music has come to an end. The Strokes last studio album Comedown Machine was released back in 2013, but they decided to cut off from social media and not promote the album, with only a few performances here and there. The new EP Future, Present, Past is available now for you to enjoy. Lead singer Julian Casablancas debuted OBLIVIUS on his own radio show, Culture Void on Sirius XMU. The extended play consists of four tracks, three original new songs and a remix of OBLIVIUS, by Moretti. The band completely distinguish themselves from what’s currently on the hit lists and sticks to what works for them, which results in a moody but balanced album soothing for the upcoming summer. It’s a satisfying new addition to your vacation playlist.
Anthony Vaccarello Fall/Winter 2016 Women's Ready-to-Wear Campaign
Anthony Vaccarello showed his natural seductive vibes in his ready-to-wear collection into black and white advertising featuring the Czech model Eva Herzigova. The designer has been inspired by architectural lines and lingerie hardware and the mood is reflective of the collection's natural femininity. The images, shot in black & white, feature iconic model Eva Herzigova walking in a stud farm, outside Paris. For the Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear campaign, Anthony Vaccarello collaborates once again with the Dutch fashion photographer duo Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The styling is by Alastair McKimm and it is the third season the designer and the two men are collaborating.
Palladium Champions Pack
Inspired by the Paris Fashion Week and at the same time from the eclectic style of football stars, Palladium Boots have prepared a very special edition of their beloved classic Pampa Hi: the Champions Pack. For the Palladium Boots Champions Pack the materials that were used can be seen for the first time on Palladium boats. The iconic logo patch on the side of the shaft was plated with 24 carat gold, just like the eyelets of the boat. Noble, waxed laces add an additional high fashion appeal.
Palladium Boots Champions Pack consists of the Pampa Hi in black and a matching, specially designed backpack. This special collection was produced as a tribute to our Champions in very limited quantities.
Palladium Boots is a brand made in France and inspired by this beautiful country.
Gucci Menswear Pre Spring/Summer Cruise 2017
Gucci has a fresh and youthful approach on this Pre Spring/Summer Cruise 2017 collection.
Alessandro Michele reinvented the house by taking snippets of its past, mostly from its heydays in the 70s, and reworking them into something that feels both reverential of their origins but also distinctly neoteric.
The collection was unique, distinctive, and unforgettable. The clothes had the compulsorily trinity needed to satisfy the social media saturated consumers of today. The retro style remains on the Menswear collection and the colours are bright with red, burgundy, green and blue to conquer on this collection while the patterns have stripes, animal print, chequer and floral.
Chanel Cruise Collection 2017 Presented in Cuba
Hundreds of fashionistas in vintage convertible cars filled Paseo de Prado to watch Karl Lagerfeld making history with presenting his summer creations on the first ever fashion show on the island. Beach colours and souvenir T-shirts as well as optic white Broderie anglaise and summer tweed suits in lighter weight fabrics were some of the collection’s pieces. Lagerfeld was inspired by the ‘cultural richness and opening up of Cuba’ showing on the collection cabanas patterns and Chanel’s characteristic jackets in many colours while the Panama hats were the main accessorize of the show. Drummers, dancers and Karl Lagerfeld himself emerged to get the party started on the boulevard, as models jumped back into the convertible cars for the Insta-opportunity of a lifetime. Chanel gave every visitor a guide book and allowed them to get out and explore the country’s rich culture.
Ulay at MOT International
One year after the idea found footing in the pages of ZOO Issue 47, the life-size collages of Ulay will now take the form of a physical exhibition. Staged at the MOT International in Brussels, Anagrammatic Bodies presents a series of life-size collages: fragmented full-body compositions which merge the figures of models who make up a mix of gestures, genders and generations. In many ways, this new series can be regarded an extension of the founding values that rendered Ulay a luminary of 1970s photography, his idiosyncratic stare an inadvertent appraisal of identity, but an inevitable one, at that. Ulay’s artistic awareness was ignited in early childhood, exposed in them most immediate sense to the atrocities of World War II. His ‘anti-aesthetic’ is one salvaged from the ruins of his environment; the loss of his father in early childhood, together with his mother’s subsequent social withdrawal, imposed on Ulay the charge to tether his own upbringing, establishing an identity through his smoothing of the splinters. In a quite sinister instance of child’s play, the dismemberment and consequent reassembly of a sparrow – innocently slain at the hands of he and his friends – would unwittingly divine a direction for Ulay’s formative future output. His Anagrammatic Aphorisms of the mid-70s segmented and then pieced together the performative traits of his character, a visceral dissection of the social, sexual roles of individuals outlined as ‘the other’, finding subjects in the transvestite and transsexual subcultures of Amsterdam, and more often than not, himself. Ulay’s evocative application of the human body as an articulation of identity holds as much meaning then as it does today – his reshuffled female figures immortalized in the pages of ZOO last year pointing to the collective tacit strength of character. Now installed at Brussels’ MOT International gallery as part of Ulay’s Come On exhibition, their life-size proportions prevail with an indomitable power.
Come On will be on show at the MOT International, Brussels, from 12th May – 16th July 2016.
Kour Pour's Onnagata in Berlin
At Berlin's Gnyp Gallery, artist Kour Pour intersects Europe's fascination with Japanese culture with the art themes of fragility, instability and deconstruction. What at first sounds like a mismatched mixture inevitably makes sense in the artist's latest display “Onnagata”, presented at the Berlin gallery from April 24th onwards. The title is taken from the Japanese word used to describe male kabuki actors playing female roles in Japanese theatre. It stands as a metaphor for the shifting of meaning inhabited by tectonic plates, which also play a significant role in the exhibition's DNA. Pour applied the laborious, physical and ritualistic process of making tectonic paintings, inspired by volcano maps used by the Japanese Geological survey. The result is a range of artworks that allude to Japanese Ukiyo-e prints, an art form that already fascinated the likes of Van Gogh, Degas and Toulouse-Lautrec. The works share a visual resemblance with contemporary abstraction embedded in an European and American tradition. With Onnagata, Kour Pour brilliantly links a Japenese manufacturing process with an aesthetic rooted in Western culture. It's a connection that sets a spark, like a volcano erupting. If we were Kour Pour, we would have been inspired, too.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2016
Louis Vuitton' collection for Fall 2016 was all about reflection. Quite literally, if one references the voluptuous mirror installation the designs were shown in. On a more theoretic note, Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière also reflected on different facets of his employer as a brand and his own work as a designer. Starting off with silk print dresses that recall notorious scarf prints, the designer threw in a chunk of brand heritage. All the while, though, Ghesquière stayed focused on modern street fashion, slicing and assembling modern aspect in each garment. Shape wise, Fall/Winter Vuitton is all about the waist. Super-cropped, boxy jackets accentuate a remarkably slim waist, while printed sweaters and dresses imitate the shape through contrasting prints that resemble an optical illusion. Skirts, dresses and trousers end just above the ankle, giving way to laced combat boots that mark a harsh counterpart to the sometimes soft and light dresses. This more firm note is supported by dark lipstick used on all models, sometimes in combination with a rather strict hairstyle. Nevertheless, Ghesquière also leaves room for less harsh elements, such as batwing sleeves and a triple-print forming the penultimate look. With this collection, Louis Vuitton has perfectly applied he art of reflection: it has to cover multiple facets, for to be honest, the look in the mirror is never the same.
Kenzo Fall/Winter 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, please note: the Kenzo Fall 2016 collection includes the following: V-neck dresses (very formal), appealing outerwear in blue, flower pint on grey suit-fabric, tiger prints in red and gold and ruffled shoulders by the dozen. On Tuesday night in Paris, it might have been as hard for the fashion crowd as it was for you to remember these elements. Kenzo presented a rather various collection, that, despite its broad range of inspirations, still had continuous elements. One of them are the aforementioned ruffled shoulders, recalling the designs of both shirt blouses and garments from past decades. They circle the collection together with puffy shoulders, round or V-neck collars and at many times slim waists. With this collection, Kenzo showed how to unify a collection without convulsing into an assembly of more or less the same item. It's shape, silhouette and signature elements that keep the 54 looks under one roof. Make sure to note that, too.
Gucci's Second #GucciGram
Since Alessandro Michele has taken over the reigns at Gucci, nothing the brand puts on the market is monochrome, monotonous or dull. Take their eclectic, era-spawning collections, themes and innovations, or, for example, the collaborative digital #GucciGram project. Launched in its second installment, the project now dotes upon the new Gucci Tian pattern and invited artists and online illustrators to interpret and rework their own style of the pattern. What arose from that is imagery featuring everything from blurry cats to butterflies in a jar to a floral skyline building and cartoon figures crossing the street. The eclectic, multifaceted spirit to this campaign was created by only Asian-origined artists, referencing the cultural background of the pattern itself. At the same time, the artworks refer to Western orientalist fantasies and 18th-century Chinoiserie. The final results will not only be shown across the artists' social media accounts, but naturally also on Gucci's instagram account and on an extra micro website. Gram it or talk it, if there's one thing that Gucci gets going, it's participation.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2016
Keeping it clean and simple, reducing and seizing the detail sometimes pays off best for a fashion brand. At least, it does for Hermès. For the Fall/Winter 2016 collection, their garments were strained through the sieve of overdoing, leaving an assembly of designs that convinces in its simplicity. This season, the Hermès woman is the goddess of clear lines, of understatement and coolness. She is oozing confidence, she doesn't need much and has everything at hand to walk you over in the blink of an eye. Wonder what her wardrobe actually looks like? If not designed with an atypical pattern, there are hardly ever more than two or three colors to one look. Hermès went for monochrome combinations in shimmering gold, classic black or seductive oxblood. For lighter days, one can opt for smooth greys, cream whites and beiges, sometimes set together like paint color samples in a catalogue. Art-like assembly is another motif at Hermès in general; the items seem to be pieced, either in cut or color, with unique precision and strategy. It is out of question that the French brand applied fine, high-quality tailoring – their customers would never dare brushing off quality. Sometimes it pays off to take the quiet road, indeed. Remember Hermès.
Dior Fall/Winter 2016
Dior's Fall/Winter 2016 presentation might be the last time it's appropriate to mention Raf Simon's departure. Yes, he is gone, and yes, everyone was both thrilled and excited to see what would come next for the traditional Parisian house. No need for discussion, cut to the chase: what was there? All-black-everything looks marked a dark and gloomy start to the presentation but were quickly followed by allover floral designs that were once again reminiscent of Simons' work. Other than that, Dior presented femininity, meaning tight waistlines and short skirts, flowing to the sides or sometimes stiffly sitting on the hips. Sharpness is the base to the collection's tailoring, which – and why wouldn't it - was as precise and detailed as ever. Asymmetry and V-Necks are Dior's thing this season and often incorporated together in the making of lascivious dresses or the final piece, an egg-shaped white coat, falling loosely over one shoulder in a relaxed attitude. In fact, this final look may stand for everything the future beholds for Dior: relaxation. Drop the shoulder, drop the fear. The future can be bright for Dior, and after Fall/Winter 16, we see no reason why it wouldn't turn out to be so. Good luck.
Prada Women F/W 2016
On February 25th in Milan, Prada's F/W 2016 womenswear collection had you reminisce immediately. Contrary to other collections, though, one does not think back to past decades or centuries, but just to one month ago, when Prada presented its menswear collection. It seems the leading theme this season that the menswear collections were somewhat a preparation to the womenswear designs. Or, for want of a better word, the womenswear designs are their continuation. However you'd like to put it, Prada's latest designs pick up elements from menswear, such as the unmistakable sailor hats and eclectic pattern mix. Especially the latter is striking, for the list to enumerate all patterns used by Prada would be far too long. Another key element to this collection is the waist-slimming belt that completes almost every look. Recalling medieval designs and lacing, the accessory enforces a hourglass silhouette, a contrast to the mainly loose silhouettes displayed by Miuccia Prada's colleagues this season. It is as if the laced design unites all 52 looks, whether they in themselves recall nautical elements, tribal art or graphic prints (yes, all in one collection). We wouldn't know how to describe it except for “very Prada”. Take a look at the collection, and you'll surely understand. Grazie, Miuccia.
Photos: Monica Feudi.
Emporio Armani F/W 16
Emporio Armani’s latest Fall/Winter collection consists of one thing: consistency. In days where coherent collections are long gone, Giorgio Armani presented a range that sees each item blend with the next like the graphic blocks in a tetris game. In fact, graphics such as the popular video game seem to have been an inspiration for maestro Armani. Triangles, circles, squares, featured in neon and pastel colors printed or sewed on black, remind of 90s tapestries and sticker embellishment. Armani transfers these into high-end ready-to-wear pieces that fit both the office and the dinner gala easily. For the Italian brand, it pays off working piece by piece, square by square, stripe by stripe. The result is next level. Whether at Tetris or at fashion, you decide.
Pictures: Yannis Vlamos.
No. 21 Fall/Winter 2016
No. 21 stays down to earth. The brand's latest designs are not only actually ready to wear, but carry earthy and natural colors in the true sense of the word. At Milan Fashion Week, the show was opened with models sporting slippy dresses and slouchy sweaters in rusty tones or with delicate flower prints. Combined with ochre tones and subtle greys, the first half of the collection is a casual nod to everyday life –without getting boring, of course. However, for those seeking a little more wild life, the collection has a pattern in store that is quite the rare occurrence this season: leopard print. The wildlife reference was used in the fabrication of coats and jackets, whereas other pieces of this section come in full beach-print, with palm trees blowing in front of an overcolored sunset. Part 3 of the collection in a way is more classic, with just a little twist. Pattern-wise, multicolored checks are no rebellion, but it is their assembly and usage in the making of patched coats and a layered baby doll dress that makes them special. As with every good collection, there's one piece dancing out of line: a brown-and-white fur coat with an oversized silhouette makes for this season's surprise moment. As said before, down to earth does not mean boring. For reference, see No. 21.
Gucci F/W 2016
When in Milan, the curtain fell for Gucci’s Fall/Winter presentation, the crowd most likely let out a small gasp. The collective thought couldn’t have been but one: he’s done it again. Alessandro Michele once more let loose his eclectic fantasy and spread out a message of reinvented history, reassembled patterns and colorful combinations. Now, with any other designer, that might have circled in the realms of boredom, but not with signore Michele. One twist on these new designs is the collaboration with a ghost. Not a literal one, of course. Gucci cooperated with the GucciGhost, also known as artist Trevor Andrew. Among the entity, he is known for his work with the double-G Gucci logo, which he has incorporated in vintage clothing, decoration pieces, graffiti and wall art. In Fall 2016, his designs grace furry Gucci coats and handbags. Now, how does one summarize the rest of this collection? It stays Michele’s secret how he does it, but each time, the designer manages to keep his eclectic mix in line, forming a more than exciting wardrobe. This collection has everything: from floral print to fluffy ruffles, preppy looks to Paris style, Asian patterns to A-list ball gowns. Alessandro Michele has done it again, and there’s nothing left to do but applaud.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
DKNY RTW Fall 2016
What clearly stayed in mind from DKNY’s latest Fall/Winter collection were the oversized coats, made from shiny, synthetic materials and featuring a voluminous shape that seems to be very much on the rise this season. Their floor-length design, paired with evenly oversized lacing, expressed a ruling confidence that left the viewer in admiration for Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, the designer duo revolutionizing the DKNY brand from the core. However, even if the oversize shape is an undeniably strong force in this collection, not everything was out of proportion. Osborne and Chow made free assembly their friend and presented cut-out shirts with varying lengths, dresses not only with fabric but shape combinations and a contrasting material mix. Contrast could also be detected in the color palette, which saw heavy dark tones confronted with sparkling red and white. While this all may trick you into a very serious state of mind, the designers proved to have not forgotten about the splash of humor every fashion collection needs: whereas in the 90ies, DKNY was known for sprawling their logo across their items, the new designs simply read “Insert Logo Here”. Confidence, charisma and humor – if this collection was a person, we’d sure like to be introduced.
New Kohei Nawa Exhibitions
Japanese artist Kohei Nawa, featured in ZOO's issue No. 49, will be presenting his artworks in new exhibitions spanning across the globe. Opening of March 5 in German town Karlsruhe, Nawa will show his installation work "Force" as part of the exhibition "New Sensorium – Exiting Failures Of Modernization" at the ZKM exhibition space. The group show features mainly Asian artists that are defined by the traditional meaning of Asian: the Eurosian continent minus Europe. It pays attention to new realms of sensoriums, evolved through the ongoing developments in digital culture and the sweeping effects of globalization. Many thousand kilometers east, a screen presentation of Nawa's performance work "Vessel" will be held in Tokyo's Media Ambition 2016 on March 16. Furthermore, Nawa's pieces will be shown on the storefront of German jewelry store Niessing in Osaka. Here, Jewelry will be staged upon various sculpture pieces created by Nawa based on the theme “CELL / FORCE”.
Tommy Hilfiger RTW Fall 2016
In Fall 2016, Tommy Hilfiger has the sails set. His latest collection, presented in an extravagant set at New York Fashion week, sets off to the sea with maritime inspirations in all their nautical beauty. Now, it would be too easy to just restyle sailor archives to appropriate their look for 2016. Hilfiger on the contrary made his nautical references visible, but still wearable on dry land. Stripes pop up on various garments and materials, from shiny tops to floating dresses, sometimes presented in the traditional sailor manner, sometimes only hinted with a few stripes at the bottom. Classic navy embellishments also made the cut and can be found on coats, blazers and even sheer dresses. For those who want to experience the ride on the sea in a more graphic way, the designer created repetitive patterns for all kinds of garments, showing small drawings of boats, anchors, dancing sailor, wales and more. On the runway, new brand ambassador Gigi Hadid, who opened the show in a shifty beige dress and closed it as the gold-glittering sea travel princess, fronted the show. Full speed ahead!
Capital Ride: Berlinale 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, jump on the wagon; it’s time to set off for Berlinale! From February 11, in a spread of 10 days, the German capital will once again be home to the finest in moving images. From international blockbusters to independent movies, the international film festival offers everything you’d want to watch. In fact, the programme is that various that even native Berliner’s will find their head in a spin. Thus, jump on ZOO’s film ride now and catch up with what is not to miss at this year’s Berlinale:
Chi-Raq © Parrish Lewis
Stop 1: Chi-Raq “Chi-Raq” is a modern take on Aristophanes’ play “Lysistrata” and stars a variety of high-profile celebrities such as Mariah Carey’s ex-husband Nick Cannon, Angela Bassett, Jennifer Hudson and Samuel L. Jackson. The plot: in violence-driven Chicago, a female movement aims to shut down outbursts through a sex-strike. On display i.e. at the Berlinale Palast, Tue. 16.02., 10 PM
Hail, Caesar! © Universal Pictures
Stop 2: Hail, Caesar! Next stop: Rome! Well, in mind. More like Hollywood. With “Hail, Caesar!”, cult-directors Jonathan & Ethan Coen peek behind the coulisses of 1950s Hollywood. George Clooney mimes the kidnapped Caesar-actor while Josh Brolin is the studio-boss that strives to keep everything under control. Need we say more? On display i.e. at the Friedrichstadt-Palast, Thur. 11.02., 8.30 PM
Midnight Special © Ben Rollstein/Warner Bros. Entertainment/Ratpac-Dune LLC.
Stop 3: Midnight Special Next up on the film ride is a movie that accumulates everything: father-and-son road trip, the exploration of sect-culture, religion and politics in one – not to forget the subcultures that come with the American province. “Midnight Special” stars former ZOO-coverstar Michael Shannon, Kirsten Dunst and Joel Edgerton. On display i.e. at Haus der Berliner Festspiele, Sat. 13.02., 11 AM.
Maggie's Plan © John Pack / Hall Monitor, Inc.
Stop 4: Maggie’s Plan As part of their Panorama programme, the Berlinale presents a movie about 30-year old Maggie, who after invitro fertilization meets the love of her life. Naturally, the patchwork family life doesn’t work as it’s supposed to do. Starring Greta Gerwig, Ethan Hawke and Julianne Moore. On display i.e. at Zoo Palast 1, Sun., 21.02., 9.30 PM.
Stop 5: Goat How is extreme masculinity built these days? Andrew Neels’ “Goat” explores the violent side. 19-year old Brad does not only experience violence after a robbery, but also when entering a student fraternity at university. Starring James Franco, Nick Jonas and Ben Schnetzer. On display i.e. at CinemaxX7, Fri. 12.02., 10 AM.
Final Stop: Culinary Cinema & Berlinale Goes Kiez Next to all artistic endeavors, the final stop on this film ride focuses on the Berlinale special projects. One of them is the culinary cinema, showcasing 11 film features about the relation between food, culture and politics. Additionally, since 2010, the Berlinale hosts the “Berlinale Goes Kiez” programme, which moves the flying red carpet to small cinemas around Berlin on seven evenings, each one having a renowned personality as its patron.
434 films, 10 days and numerous red carpets filled with celebrities – it is impossible to swish through the Berlinale in just one ride. Consider this festival a hop-on, hop-off travel. You can’t fathom everything. Even if you just get a slight idea of it – we’re sure it will strike you just as much. Everyone get off, please!
Saatchi Gallery/Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools
Untitled by Praise Jeong, 17 years, Victorian College of the Arts Secondary School, Australia
To be fair, the closest that art and finance might have come to this day would be random paintings hanging in a bank accountant’s office. London’s Saatchi Gallery and global finance giant Deutsche Bank are about to change that. Their collaborative “Art Prize for Schools” enables and rewards international students to pursue their artistic endeavors. With a prize money ranging from 10.000 pound for the overall winning school and 2.000 for the single pupil, surely not only the creative challenge will get students going. Through the reward, Saatchi and Deutsche Bank urge schools to purchase appropriate computer, print and design material to secure that pupils can create their artwork in the best way possible. For the Deutsche Bank, this plan is part of a bigger picture: reducing youth unemployment by diminishing the problems at their very base. With Saatchi Gallery, one of London’s most renowned and high profile galleries on the pad, they certainly stand a good chance to spread out a high-end artistic message. Maybe, in a few years time, the pictures hanging in the bank accountant’s office won’t be so random anymore. Today, its creator might just be headed for the next lesson.
A free exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery will feature artworks from 20 shortlisted students from March 3-9, 2016.
A Working Man by Alyssa Diaz, 16 years, Edinburgh High School
Glitch by Edward Lamer, 18 years, Norwich School
Dior Homme's “Stranger In A Room” SS16
In a world where voyeurism is ever-present in many ways, Dior Homme managed to turn secret spying into something intriguing and artistically beautiful. For their new SS16 campaign “Stranger In A Room”, longtime-collaborator and photographer Willy Vanderperre followed four distinctive famous faces around – as the title suggests - a room. Viewers watch actor Alain-Fabien Delon, The xx member Oliver Sims, artist Rinus van de Velde and model Victor Nylander act as different versions of themselves while participating in seemingly everyday actions. In doing so, they are set to embody both the current spirit of the Dior Homme brand and their own charismatic and individual style. “Each young man is respected for who he is as a person and in what they do; all of them have talents you would want to possess”, photographer Vanderperre commented on the testimonial selection. He developed the narrative for Stranger In A Room with Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche. The title was chosen from the eponymous song by Oliver Sims’ The xx bandmate Jamie xx. And as the song, the short movie has something magnetic to it. Whether it is the gripping, charismatic actors or the delicate cinematography – that kind of voyeurism we'd like to indulge in even more.
Lala Berlin: Persian Queen Goes Berlin Vol. 2
If you want to do it right, do it twice. Leyla Piedayesh, designer of Lala Berlin, made her latest F/W 16 collection stand out even more in presenting it twice – in two completely different places. Even though the collection's theme is “Persian Queen Goes Berlin”, the designer chose to host her runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. As a matter of course, Piadayesh did not neglect her hometown. At Berlin Fashion Week, she had already presented the collection with a special mirror installation and an exclusive film. In the now following classic runway show, the “Persian Queen” went for a strut down the catwalk clad in designs that were inspired by ancient cultures – two in particular. The antique Persian town Persepolis performed a major inspiration to Piedayesh. Animal and fairytale statues are reflected in print motifs while oriental elements are a nod to the designer's background. On another note, they also contrast with the collection's modern and street style vibe, formed by 3-D High-Low knitwear, a variety of outerwear and one-shoulder silhouettes. Asymetrical cuts and diagonal cutlines are playfully used to create a glamourous look that could also survive in fast-paced Berlin. To be fair, if Leyla Piedayesh's Persian Queen would enter Berlin, we're certain everyone would slow down for her. Anything else would be too much of a miss.
Givenchy Men's F/W 16 & Couture S/S 16
At the latest Givenchy presentation, viewers found themselves caught somewhere between a game of Tetris and the inside of a gum bubble. In Paris, the French fashion house chose to reveal both their menswear designs for F/W 16 and the couture designs for SS 16 in one captivating show. Ricardo Tisci's theme for this collection apparently was freedom, which he chose to express in a variety of designs that weren't at all as monochrome as the seating. For the menswear, Tisci alternated between sharp silhouettes with classic outerwear and more layered, colorful designs. Cobra-flagged knitwear was seen next to tribal inspirations and fringed coats; embellished collars on jackets and coats went along with college sweaters and pinstripe combinations. The couture marked a welcome contrast to all that. Sheer dresses had their parts as much as expressive dotted designs. Lace and other thin materials gave the collection a soft touch, whereas tight bandeaus in a wrapped style suggested a confident couture look. For his latest presentation, Ricardo Tisci's bubble might have been pink as gum, but we sure do enjoy it in there.
Diesel Black Gold SS16 Ad Campaign
Diesel Black Gold has revealed their new SS16 advertising campaign, a call to he brand’s irreverent and contemporary spirit. French photographer Karim Sadli shot models Lexi Boling and Timur Muharemovic in Downtown Los Angeles, a urban and metropolitan location that fits the collection like a glove. Conceived by Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, the campaign presents key pieces such as the Type 2614 extra-long jeans, a design that through its exaggerated length creates a crushed effect, worn by Muharemovic. Boling meanwhile sports the season’s signature overalls and a leather jacket detailed with metal grommets and whipstitches. With this campaign, Diesel shows once again that it doesn’t take much to impress. If only it would be so easy for everyone.
Sandro F/W 16
For a fashion designer, a collection can be like a play. Different actors, different looks, different parts of the play – in other words, acts. French fashion label Sandro took this as a chance to divide their latest collection, their play, if you will, into such different acts. The first one throws it way back to 1980s Berlin, where anarchical urban structures drained romance through the industrializing reality. This message translated into fabric calls for a denim jacket pattern realized with suede, combined with yellow rollneck jumpers. Act two introduces a series of silk shirts, emblazoned with a chain print, to be worn with tapered trousers that are cut off at the ankle and feature a generous hem. A theatrical play would maybe suggest a break by now, but Sandro dives right into the final act: suits with wider collars break on boots and are complemented with black-and-wide check motifs on mohair knits. As the curtain falls, the label presents the last look formed by leather trousers and long cashmere coats in a variety of colors. Applause!
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture SS16
Giorgio Armani is defying gravity. With his latest couture collection for Armani Privé, the designer mounted on a cloud of silk and organza and casually flew away. Ruffles define the new designs along with flowing silhouettes, corresponding to the illusion of constant movement. They suggest waves, like the sea stirred by the wind, an expression that is even found in the fashion show’s hairstyles. While the first part of the collection transfers these ideas into business-like ensembles, the finale is formed by a collection of ball gowns that illustrate the idea of a contemporary, high-class princess. Key colors in this collection are a variety of lilacs, supporting a young and soft attitude. Seems like Armani’s cloud is a pretty nice place. And whatever it takes, we will get on there, too.
Nobi Talai F/W 16/17
The third collection for designer Nobieh Talalei borrowed elements from nomad tribes, an obvious source of inspiration. What could have become stuck in a concept turned into wearable pieces, made from cozy fabrics coincidentally perfect for combating the harsh climate of Berlin’s streets outside: Japanese leather and plush shearling, otherwise used most notably by heritage toy manufacturer Steiff. For FW 16/17 Talalei showcased capes abound, such as a woolen cape vest supposed to be tied around the body, draping asymmetrically around female form. The look invoked futuristic desert planet associations just as much as a nostalgic longing for freedom on the tramp. Layering and folklore vibes find balance in crafted designs in solid neutrals and jewel tones for a polished, modern collection with melancholy notes of orientalism.
Fashion Designs presented by Shih Chien University
Traditionally, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin trickles out over the course of its final day, when editors and buyers abandon Berlin and move on to the next shows. As the students of Shih Chien University proved with their FW 16/17 was that is without a question their loss. The Taiwanese University long holds the title of one of the world’s best design schools. In walk two of Yu-Qi Zheng’s models with winged shoulders and pompous headpieces. Far eastern design elements made an appearance on Yi Ma’s designs in the shape of Buddha prints, others incorporated Asian letters or ritualistic accessories, gaping a divide between manga-esque looks and deities. These students by no means over conceptualize their work or cater to cosplayers rather than fashionistas. Each collection is more haute – couture than comic con, begging the question of what is next for this talented bunch.
Paul Smith F/W 16/17
As a designer, Paul Smith is fond of the past. The days and decades that are long gone are an everlasting inspiration to him, and with each collection, Smith manages to transform the spirit of “back then” into a fashion statement applicable to today. For the Fall/Winter menswear collection, Smith once again embraced his past and wove it into new designs. Stripes recur in cashmere knitwear of tailored coats and find their sartorial climax in more-than-elegant lurex pinstripes. Paul Smith, though, never designs without a bit of cheekiness: Dinosaur prints reference his use of digital printing, while lip-shaped fastenings on belts and peace sign charms are a link to the free spirit of the late-60s and early-70s. Fun aside, this collection's centerpiece introduces itself in multiple ways: the Epscom coat comes with sheepskin and cashmere and both single and double-breasted. Combined with often flared trousers and heeled leather boots, the “throwback” is complete. Now that we think about it, saying that Paul Smith is just fond of the past might be quite the understatement. He adores it. And we do, too.
Dorothee Schumacher FW 16/17
Schumacher’s FW 16/17 collection is clearly inspired by Stacy Perlata and his Z-Boys and Bones Brigade, the laid-back and most of all free attitude of late subculture. The label has been around for years, rooted in commercial chic and has so far been renowned for business attire. In the latest offering juxtapositions of smart and casual, freedom and roots are painstakingly obvious. For Dorothee Schumacher skater gear element mixed in with romantic florals and classic cuts appear audacious at first. However, dissonance creates interest in the most positive of ways: Bermuda shorts with suspenders paired with delicate blouses, sporty stripes on mixed mille fleur, baggy pants and glitter shirts, stern woolen coats covering romantic dresses carry the Schumacher DNA over to 2016. Folklore-esque garter belts, cutouts and transparency add a youthful layer to the designs. The cherry atop this show was certainly the music by the late David Bowie that set the mood for the show.
Larusmiani F/W 16/17
“The secret of a real man’s style lies in knowing the rules as well as breaking them”. Larusmiani thinks back to founder Gugliemo Miani’s wise words as inspiration for their F/W 16/17 collection. In fact, it is not only inspiration, but key essence to the new Italian designs. Handmade suits are made from fine fabrics such as wool, cashmere and silk – with the twist of occasional blends. Impeccable shirts with embroidered initials are available in cotton flannel and cashmere or printed silk as recognition of the modern and the traditional. Ties with geometric patterns only take a few seconds to be chosen by their wearer. Shoes emphasize the mantra of knowing the rules as well as breaking them: the beaver fur-lined sneaker stands next to the Larusmiani Oxford shoe. Altogether, the collection composes a relaxed Dandy attitude for the Larusmiani man. And to him, we’d sure like to be introduced.
Costume National Homme Fall Collection
The world is under pressure. The fashion world is under pressure. At least according to Ennio Capasa. The lead designer of Costume National took the occurring dangers and threats of our world as an inspiration for his new Fall collection. The result is an assemblage of combat elements, couture bits and both uniform and freedom. With these designs, Capasa also wants to rekindle his connection to music. Quite literally referring to pressure, Capasa found muses in David Bowie and Freddie Mercury and their collaborative hit “Under Pressure”. Now, what does one do to resist? Costume National delivers the perfect gear. Combat multi pocket trousers make for a well-equipped look, squared shoulder jackets and oversize coat create an invincible silhouette and fabrics from faux fur to glitter print show that “fear” is not in store for Costume National. Colors balance between tones from black and navy to shiny greens and neon turquoise. It’s only the brand name that seems unfitting in this collection. This definitely isn’t a costume. It’s an armour.
FENDI F/W Collection 2016
With their latest menswear collection, Fendi went luxurious-but-soft. Or casual-but-elegant. Playful-but-stylish. However you define it, the new collection oozes a feeling of private luxury. The silhouette is soft and comfortable, which helps the wearer glide through the urban frenzy without bumping shoulders. In general, outerwear has found a new, welcoming roominess at Fendi. Knitwear makes us feel like home, with long and loose jumpers keeping warm and droopy scarves draped around the neck. With Fendi, it’s not loneliness but “homeliness” that awaits us: the garments have a relaxed ease; comic strip elements add humor and character. Stolen plaid pieces add a visual rhythm when fused on knitted pieces and felted wool tailoring. Another key element is sheepskin, used in the making of bucket hats and shoppers. It might be “luxurious-but-soft” or “playful-but-stylish”, but actually, with this collection, there are no “buts” needed.
Persian Queen goes Berlin: Lala Berlin at Fashion Week
Berlin Fashion Week whizzed by in a second, but Leyla Piedayesh was there to capture the moment. With her new “Persian Queen goes Berlin” collection, the designer established the connection of live experiences with online content. At Berlin’s meCollectors room, surrounded by celebrities from the music, fashion and acting scene, Piedayesh presented a special video installation with strong visuals. Director Jonas Lindstroem filmed three characters, embodied by model Lina Berg, 12-year-old Louise Constein and Anna von Rueden. In support of the video, Piedayesh also went to search for inspiration in the realms of upcoming German music. Singer Jasper Munk supported the videos with his sounds and was present for a set of 3 acoustic songs at the event. To make the evening even more interactive, the label invented the InstaShoot, a creation to let fans from allover the world take part in the experience with the help of an exclusive mirror installation titled “Mirror Me”. According to Piedayesh, instagram has revolutionized the fashion world and is an important source of inspiration and creativity to her. 3, 2, 1, smile!
Peuterey Studio Collection F/W 16
How to stand out from the crowd is an infinite question. It applies to almost every field of work, of entertainment, of culture. Nevertheless, with their latest collection, Peuterey took on exactly that question. In fact, they question a lot in the fashion business. Along with Federico Curradi's debut designs, the brand has released a movement of “realitytelling”, as opposed to the ongoing frenzy that fashion can sometimes cause. The new Peuterey man is a thinker, a maker, a creator, who is not afraid to get his hands dirty to achieve his goals. Behind this lies a concept of truly deep thoughts – with the goal to highlight two main things: authenticity and purposefulness. Fashion, according to Peuterey, should not be fast, selfish and attention seeking, but should satisfy and be useful to the person wearing it, to let them be theirselves in the best possible way. Therefore, the new collection underlines a promising message of utility to its wearer: parkas and blousons are being rethought with new fabrics, overcoats and duffels have straps to be repurposed into rucksacks and blazers can be used in multiple ways. Patch pockets not only suggest real utility but work as accessories in more ways than one. Classic fabrics are intersected with double-faced, technical and diagonal wools, nylon and gabardine. The color palette comes across as somber, with 50ies inspired accents: charcoal, rust and military greens. If after all, this sounds way too utilitarian to you, don't despair. Purposefulness never meant going out of style. Authenticity never meant being unfashionable. For reference, have a look at Peuterey again.
JIL SANDER Men’s Fall/Winter 2016
London Men’s Fashion Week saw a lot of collections being devoted to the motives of protection, uniformity and military. In Milan, a few designers also presented their take on this theme, JIL SANDER being one of them. By itself, their F/W 16 collection is not a pure military reminiscence, but a metropolitan version of it. There are harnesses crossing the bust but also tailored jackets and capes. The protective effect is certainly shown with voluminous parkas edged in velvet, but bare arms under sleeveless vests also suggest vulnerability. There are ribbed jumpers with patched shoulders, but also city maps on silk shirts, blown into abstract proportion. For a both innovative and strict line like JIL SANDER, it would be too easy to go down the simple line of military inspiration. Even mixing it with urbanity would be insufficient. That’s the twist of JIL SANDER: making simple clothing backed by complex inspiration. Nevertheless: if you wear it, you’ll feel protected, but not shielded. You’re still a metropolitan.
Prada F/W 16 Show
In Milan, the sails were set as Prada models left the backstage harbour and took to the catwalk clad in a broad variety of looks, which were almost all adorned with the nautical accessory of a sailor hat. For the rest of the collection though, Miuccia Prada and her team stayed onshore: a special dedication was made to the fabric prints, which were defined by a collaboration with Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin. Chemin is a versatile artist and has devoted his work to multiple forms of art, ranging from installations, to novels, to pencil drawings. For Prada, he now exclusively created a selection of prints. Furthermore, the designs form a blend of remarkable outerwear and calmer garments created in earthy colors. Oval-shapes and enormous collars add complexity to this collection, with female models on the other hand also presenting bodyline designs that are teamed up with velvet heels for very feminine looks among the men’s designs. Still, as the nautical reference fades within the looks, we can’t help but notice that little head stealing the show. Sail, Prada!
Prada Women’s Spring Summer 16 Campaign
Just one week after the release of their latest menswear campaign, defined by vulnerability and relaxed attitudes, Prada has revealed the visuals for the matching womenswear campaign. Steven Meisel shot models Natalia Vodianova, Sasha Pivovarova and Yasmin Wijnaldum indoors in New York. With an equally relaxed attitude as their male counterparts, the three women define undone elegance and a toned-down femininity while still oozing sensuality. As far as that, the attitude is the only thing that comes across as relaxed in this campaign. For the garments, Prada experiments with layering decades of the past to refigure them into modernity. If all, one could define it as conservative eccentricity. The traditional mixed with the contemporary – a blend that has worked well for the Italian fashion house in the past. Nevertheless, they take on new steps with disoriented materials and subversive tailoring. One is uncertain if with Prada, we’re in the past, the present or the future. Another look at the campaign will give you the answer: if anyone can transcend the measure of time, it’s Prada.
Joseph F/W 2016 Collection
You might think urbanity and aristocracy wouldn’t go together all too well. Joseph is here to prove you wrong. The British fashion label presented its bedazzling F/W collection at last weekend’s London Collections: Men with the pursuit of establishing everyday classics modernized by individuality and personality. That’s why the creative minds behind Joseph mixed seventies silhouettes with elements of 90s indie style and heritage colors with shocking tangerine. Naturally, this was not enough. The sky is the limit for the Joseph vision: inside out knitted tracksuits are worn with loafers whereas a camel chesterfield coat finds its partner in a slouchy flare. The Joseph man loops heritage with urban vibes and takes the stage in a nonchalant and precise, instinctive and considered attitude. To achieve that, English fabrics are key. You are what you wear, and if you’re the Joseph man, you’re wearing tweed and cashmere, poplin shirting and velvet. Welcome to the aristocracy, Sir. The urban one, of course.
Casely-Hayford: Irregimental Youth F/W 16
London Collections: Men last weekend was all about protection. Uniformity and regalia seem to have been an ongoing inspiration in multiple collections, whether referenced subtly or interpreted with full-on dedication. Design duo Casely-Hayford has taken on this omnipresent inspiration to focus on British subcultures old and new. The concept sounds complex: appropriating establishment uniformity to create anti-establishment individualism. The result are references from the early 60s, like the Beatles’ psychedelic “Sergeant Pepper” album cover, to the use of military clothing by today’s Hip Hop favorites. To throw in some more edge, the father and son duo also incorporated elements from the Skinhead and 90’s rave culture. For the accessories, Casely-Hayford collaborated with American shoe brand Sperry to combine the roots of craftsmanship and modern sportswear. A key item is the hybrid of boat shoe and creeper, performing a split between past Teddy boys and today’s sportswear modernists. Nevertheless, military stays the driving force in this particular collection. Hand embroidered regimental elements are being reimagined in MA1-jackets. Oversized nylon coats come in the essential military green and not only make for a big appearance – but also protect. Because that is what it’s all about. It’s on!
Tiger Of Sweden Men's FW 16
It’s back to the roots for Tiger of Sweden. The brand has mentally retreated to their Swedish base for the FW 16 collection, presented last weekend at London Collections: Men. Supported by the sounds of Swedish band Wheeping Willows, Tiger of Sweden presented 35 multifaceted looks that were equally inspired by Swedish traditions and cold northern winters. The designers focused on the Dalarna region, which is equally as known for its botanic artwork which subsequently also became an inspiration for the collection. Continuing the process of adapting old traditions to modern looks, Swedish artist Jacob Krajcik exclusively reworked the colors of pressed flowers to create a modern folk design. Still, the collections color palette stays rather opaque. Black and grey dominate, with splashes of color coming in soft and seldom. However, the collection’s heart piece is a pair of tuxedos: slim cut, single – and double-breasted and shimmering in a soft peach and apricot. Whether it’s the unqiue culture, the special craftwork or just the warmth given in a cold winter – Tiger of Sweden has shown us that indeed, home is where the heart is.
COACH Men’s Fall 2016
That’s a wrap! The weekend has whizzed by and the presentations at London Collections: Men Fashion Week are already over. Once again, designers were ready to present their latest, exciting designs packed in a tight show schedule. Among these was New York brand COACH, who filled their catwalk with the impressive spirit of the American Dream – but also of everyday life. Finding the heroic in that - everyday life - was the collection’s central intention. Thus the brand presented a curation of cult wardrobe pieces with details driven by the thought of utility. Nevertheless, Creative Director Stuart Vevers added a more fashionable twist by blowing up proportions to an almost cartoonish size. Furry coats, parkas and jackets come in an oversized shape to be paired with essential pleated trousers. The cherry on top comes in form of some ironic accessories: small dinosaurs front the bags, waving their claws at the admirer. COACH FW 16 is all about embracing the authenticity and character that comes from imperfection. Just like we experience everyday life. Well, maybe minus dinosaurs.
Bottega Veneta: The Art of Collaboration SS16
Bottega Veneta has taken us to quite the special exhibition space in their latest SS16 visuals. Consisting of a short film and photos, the campaign was shot by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen in the sculpture gardens of the Kröller-Müller Museum in The Netherlands. Models Mica Arganaraz and Sven DeVries playfully wander about Jean Dubuffet’s sculpture “Jardin d’émail”, taking in the world around them. The showcased collection features colorful designs in both womens- and menswear. Shiny red tones and detailed prints define the designs for Her, while He stays casual with outdoor- and streetwear inspirations. These inspirations can also be traced in Sassen’s photography. As a photographer, the artist prefers to shoot outside. For this campaign, she focused on contrast, color and texture. As a result, the models turn into performing sculptures, creating instant art in the sculpture garden. Sassen is not the first to shoot a campaign for Bottega’s Art of Collaborations. It was instituted as a creative partnership between the brand’s Creative Director Tomas Maier and renowned artists such as Nan Goldin, Peter Lindbergh and Juergen Teller. We’ll be excited for the next one.
David Bowie Shares Video for “Lazarus”
Bedridden, haunted, possessed: music icon David Bowie has released the video for his new single “Lazarus” prior to the release of his new album “Blackstar”, out January 8th. In the video, the singer is shown in bed in what appears to be a psychic ward. While wearing a tight blindfold, Bowie moves around the bed frantically while mouthing the lyrics. “Look up here man, I’m in danger”, he sings, “I’ve got nothing left to lose”. Later on, Bowie hints at his past days when shown in a striped full-on bodysuit while convulsively writing in a notebook. At the end of the video, Bowie retreats to a closet, seeming to have lost his mind. Resigning, his last lines are: “Oh, I’ll be free, ain’t that just like me”. January 8th will not only mark the release date of the artist’s 25th studio album, but also his 69th birthday. Watch the video for "Lazarus" below.
Woolrich News & FW 16 Collection
The new year sparks big changes at traditional label Woolrich. Not only is the brand launching and revolutionizing its own products, but has some ambitious plans and changes in store. Regarding fashion, the two main themes for the FW 16 season are Technology and NoFur. For the latter, Woolrich underwent a nearly monumental change: the iconic Arctic Parka is released without the use of fur. The garment stays functional, but is revamped with a new hood design and color. Functionality is also highlighted in Woolrich’s cooperation with GORE-TEX, an icon in weatherproof clothing. The cooperation culminated in the relaunch of the “Mountain” parka and jacket. All of this happens in the realm of Woolrich label “Teton”, which features the brands Outdoor Technical Capsule Collection. And as if that wouldn’t suffice, Woolrich as a brand is headed for a worldwide market: the brand’s mother company “WP Lavori in Corso” presented an ambitious five-year plan that includes Woolrich Europe as an influencer for European and Asian markets as well as an expansion to 68 European stores until 2020. Now, that’s a motivated start to a new year!
Jaguar / Land Rover Opens New Boutique in Munich
Have you ever shopped a car like you shopped a pair of shoes? We didn't think so. The new Jaguar & Land Rover boutique in Munich, Germany, allows you to do so. Opening its doors just this week, the 250 square metre shop lets customers experience both boutiques and rides on a whole new level. Located on the Odeonsplatz in the pulsating Munich city centre, the location hosts varying vehicle exhibitions and provides the Jaguar and Land Rover merchandise. Customers are invited to dive further and further into the brand world of Jaguar & Land Rover. This world can also be experienced in a multimedia programme: like in a recipe, you can customize your car by picking the various equipment to your liking. All of this is completed by a vast program of events: Land Rover experience tours, the Jaguar Driving Academy as well as humanitary projects make the "car shopping“ a lifestyle-plan on its own. And, if after all, you're not completely lost on the road, the Tea - & Coffe-Bar is there to invigorate an extensive shopping trip. Enjoy the ride!
Givenchy Launches SS 16 Campaign
New York, I love you! This declaration has become the inspiration for Ricardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy creation. The Spring/Summer 2016 campaign is his personal “Love card” to the city. Shot by Mert & Marcus in, of course, Manhattan, the campaign indeed focuses on love and our personal relationships. Following the three main messages Love, Gang and Family, the imagery features group photos of both new faces and Givenchy veterans. Clustered under the Manhattan sky, they present signature black & white looks with timeless elements such as lace and pinstripes. And, to reference love again, each picture is decorated with a handwritten quote by singer Anohni: “I am a child on the river and love waits downstream, a waterfall to steal my breath and change my mind”. Ricardo, we love you, too.
Beth Ditto & Jean Paul Gaultier Introduce Fashion Line
Courtesy of Beth Ditto/Jean Paul Gaultier
“I trust you”, Gossip singer Beth Ditto yelled at us in the song “Heavy Cross” a few years back. Now, she has put her trust into the fashion scene. The American chanteuse and French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier have teamed up for the debut of Ditto’s own plus size fashion line. The singer announced the collection on her instagram account, commenting that she was “psyched” to introduce the line with the designer collaboration. Alluding very much to an 80ies-Madonna-style, the first shirt to be released features a print of Gaultier’s iconic corset on the front and back, adorned with actual laces to tie on the backside. With this step into the fashion world, the singer follows her path as a model in runway shows for Gaultier in 2011 and Marc Jacobs this year. It’s safe to say that Beth, we trust you with this, too.
GUCCI Pre-Fall 2016
A dictionary is a pretty thick book, but there is only one word in it to describe GUCCI’s latest Pre-Fall collection: eclectic. Under the lead of Creative Director Alessandro Michele, the brand presented a colorful, multifaceted collection that leaves almost no color, fabric or print untouched. Indeed, the list seems infinite: animals, flowers, landscapes, stripes, stars and even more– Michele has everything in store. Contrary to other fashion designers, who like to take their influences from just one decade or era, Michele adds everything to his boiling pot of inspiration. Just like in his last collections, vintage is claimed excessively– resulting in references from past centuries to the 1970s. This (again) eclectic mixture can only be adapted by few fashion brands - and GUCCI certainly is one of them. A dictionary might be a thick book, but with GUCCI, there’s one word missing: boredom.
Review: Fashion Film Festival in Paris
Last week marked the 8th edition of fashion icon Diane Pernet’s festival “A Shaded View on Fashion Film”. The diversified event, abridged “ASVOFF”, was held for four days at Centre Pompidou in Paris and included a selection of 80 competitive short films. Guest of honor was fashion design legend Jean Paul Gaultier who was awarded a Carte Blanche and led the jury alongside Iris van Herpen, Colin McDowell and Nicolas Godin. Musical ensemble Chicks On Speed took the stage clad in colorful, sequined gowns for a powerful performance that sparked pleasure throughout the Centre. The festival featured again a variety of master class discussions, one focusing on film music with jury member Nicolas Godin and Nicolas Saada, who discussed their collaboration on the film “Taj Mahal.” Another special session was dedicated to the history of the Woolmark label. With new talents, big names and a collection of exciting visuals, the festival once again deserves an everlasting round of applause. Can’t wait for next year.
CHANEL 2016 Métiers d’Art Collection
Karl Lagerfeld united his favourite cities when he took took Paris to Rome to present the latest CHANEL Métiers d’Art Collection on Tuesday at the Cinecittà film studio No. 5. The Parisian setting oozed romance with thematic décor including nymphs, statues and café terraces, all referencing the work of the legendary Alexandre Trauner…altogether it seemed quite poignant in light of recent events though Lagerfeld’s vision for this show preceded the November attacks. Sooty eyes and unfussy Bardot bouffants added a sultry undertone to the slouchy layered looks of knits, leather and black lace – all topped off with classic CHANEL pointed courts. Magical.
UNAIDS’ ProTESTHIV Turns One Tomorrow with an Exclusive Collection of Tees
Since its launch last year, the UNAIDS campaigners behind ProTESTHIV, have pledged to raise awareness of HIV testing on a global scale, in the hope of ultimately eradicating the deadly virus by 2030.
In marking World AIDS Day tomorrow (December 1) and as part of this campaign, a collection of five unique T-shirts will be released on sale. The contemporary artists FUTURA, André, Dustin Yellin, Scott Campbell and Aersoyn-Lex have exclusively designed the tops, visually tackling an internationally unavoidable subject.
ZOO has the exclusivity to give away a selection of tees. What to do? Be creative with one of our current covers and send your creation to email@example.com, or easily purchase the extremely limited edition collection in the concept stores Goodhood (London), STORM (Copenhagen), Colette (Paris), 290 Square Meters (Amsterdam) and Soto (Berlin), with all proceeds going to UNAIDS…At 50€ per tee that must be the definition of money well spent.
All for a Good Cause
In support of the rainforest charity, Cool Earth, this winter sees Dame Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler team up with British restaurant Aqua Shard to design and create a magnificent 18-foot Christmas Tree. Decorated with beautiful festive beading that has been crafted by a women’s cooperative in the Awajún community, it will be adorned also with vibrant garlands of “tuju” and “huayruro” seeds to symbolise good fortune and abundance. Emphasizing the significance of protecting the rainforest, the sustainably sourced tree will then be covered in an ethereal cocoon of lace and stand in front of a beautiful London skyline backdrop.
Accompanying this extravagant creation, Aqua Shard will be selling limited edition, uniquely wrapped chocolate made from the cacao gathered by Peru’s Asháninka communities, an extra-special chocolate desert and an exclusive Johnnie Walker Blue Label cocktail. This is all to raise money for Cool Earth, the charity whose award-winning model is so efficient, that in working with local indigenous communities they now have more rainforest under their protection than any other NGO or government.
To purchase a Vivienne Westwood x Cool Earth chocolate bar, please visit www.aquashardblog.co.uk/viviennewestwood
Beginning today is the 19th edition of the exceptional photography fair, Paris Photo. Held in the Grand Palais it brings together 147 prestigious, international galleries in a celebration of the photographic medium. Curated by the official partners of Paris Photo, several intriguing exhibitions will highlight the world’s most impressive photography projects, from already established artists and exciting emerging talent. Alongside these will be the conversational “Platform”, the “Private Collection” exhibition welcoming Italian collector Enea Righi, whilst the 4th edition of the Photobook Awards will acknowledge 3 projects out of 1000 submissions!
New to this year’s fair is “PRISMES”, an exhibition supported by Giorgio Armani, which promotes out of the ordinary series from photographers such as Daido Moryama, Paul Graham and Stephan Schenk. Not only this, but the novel “BOOK MACHINE” will run – an initiative bringing together the newest photographic talent with public participants through the creation of books…whether you are an expert, an enthusiast, a collector or just a passer by, Paris Photo is worth exploring.
The Paris Photo fair is held at the Grand Palais, Paris, from November 12-15, 2015.
Today at Gucci sees creative director Alessandro Michele lead the way in celebrating the “short circuit” of cultural references, in particular the one regarding traditional heritage versus contemporary developments. Perfectly representative of this is the fashion house’s new prints, Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido, as they feature a novel floral/geometric motif that is placed over the signature GG design.
In further exploring the evolution of the iconic Gucci pattern, the label has launched #GucciGram, an online project inviting international image-makers and illustrators to contribute original artworks incoporating the Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido motifs. The result of this is a Pop-cultural explosion of different ideas, opinions, messages and mediums offered up by both established names, such as Kalen Hollomon and Noah Kalina, as well as freshly emerging talent such as Chris Rellas. These intriguing, and often amusing, artworks will feature on Gucci’s social media channels and the site listed below.
Grimes Releases New Video from forthcoming “Art Angels”
Blood drenched, purple wigged, Renaissance dressed Grimes has just let loose her self-directed video for “Flesh Without Blood”/ “Life in the Vivid Dream”. This is taken from her forthcoming album, “Art Angels”, which will be available digitally from November 4 on 4AD. A fully solo venture, as all of Grimes’ previous albums, she plays piano, guitar and even violin throughout the album. Impressed? It gets better, as this record also contains the largest amount of live instrumentation than any of her earlier ones, as well as including collaborations with Janelle Monáe and fresh-faced newcomer, Taiwanese rapper Aristophanes.
With her European headline tour kicking off next Spring in Brixton, London, you even have enough time to learn all the lyrics. Get excited!
Since Absolut Vodka became active within the art world over thirty years ago, the liquor giant has collaborated with more than 600 artists and worked on around 900 commissioned works worldwide. 2014 saw the brand extend to create the currently Stockholm-based Absolut Art – an online platform dedicated to establishing the value of art in everyday life to be as important as music. In banishing the intimidating confines of museum walls, the site opens up the world of art collecting to the public and bridges the gap between artist and appreciator.
In perfect timing for Christmas, Absolut Art are launching Germany’s own version of the site with expertly and locally curated artworks from over 40 selected German artists, such as Gregor Hildebrandt, Paul McDevitt and Stef Heidhues. With the site constantly updating, there are artworks of all types to be discovered on the coming website and added to your office or home.
November, 2015, sees the launch of the Absolut Art German website along with the “Absolute Art Apartment popup Experience”, a series of accompanying events held in Berlin, which are yet to be announced.
Official Paris Photo Partner, Giorgio Armani presents ACQUA#6
As part of this year’s Paris Photo, to which Giorgio Armani became an official partner back in 2011, the designer will be presenting the sixth installment of his “ACQUA” exhibitions. It seems that the earthly element has provided him with a constant source of inspiration and not only for his fashion expedites but for his civic duty as well. Armani began the “Acqua for Life” project with the Green Cross International several years ago, which has since provided millions of liters of drinking water to communities in need, primarily in Ghana and Bolivia.
Now, amidst 140 exhibiting galleries hosted at the Grand Palais, all offering historical and contemporary photographic artworks, is ACQUA#6 “Reflecting on Water”. The annual exhibition sees various photographic conceptualizations of “water” from young and emerging artists, as chosen by Armani. This year, Lucien Clergue and Lee Friedlander are among those participating, whilst Noémie Goudal’s “Observatoire X” provides its official photo.
Fred Perry x Stüssy 35
In commemoration of their 35th Anniversary, Stüssy are collaborating with a number of fellow lifestyle brands whose vision have inspired them along their journey. One of which, being the massively influential British heritage brand, who in the 1950s, pioneered sportswear as streetwear and thus created an entirely new youth culture. This brand is of course, Fred Perry.
This celebratory collection sees the union of two trademark giants, and with that, two iconic logos. Classic, retro sportswear looks from the Fred Perry Sports Authentic line are reimagined in rich Mahogany and French Navy, emblazoned with the Stüssy signature and Fred Perry wreath. Joining these in the collection are two, paneled pique shirts as well as three strap-back caps.
The Fred Perry x Stüssy Collection is now available to purchase online at www.fredperry.com
Casadei Spring/Summer 2016: A New Odyssey
Hitting the stores in late October and only 20 days after the press review, Casadei are breaking the rules with their upcoming New Odyssey capsule collection. Taking inspirations from the shapes and styles of the sixties, the clean lines of 2001 Space Odyssey and the desires of a modern-day Casadei woman, this season at the Italian-footwear label is a fusion of past and present. A monochrome contrast engulfing boots, Mary Janes, ankle boots and sandals, the elegant line carries just the right amount of drama with subtle hints of silvered leather incorporated in its sleek designs. This timeless collection marks the beginning of a whole new chapter for Casadei, who will release the lines Graphic Cuts, Young Jewels and Bright Colors in later months to provide a shoe for every mood of the urban woman, be it contemporary or eclectic.www.casadei.com
Akris Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
This season in Paris saw Albert Kriemler enlist Sou Fujimoto, a Japanese architect, in creating innovative fabrics for his latest collection. You’ll get no prizes for guessing which theme the collection was made in respect to: architecture.
The usually, ultra minimal effect of Kriemler’s vision was spruced up somewhat with these textured fabrics and insistent peeping window holes featured on tunic tops and dresses. Geometric lines cut across asymmetric shapes amidst a wealth of fine tailoring and chic silhouettes. Altogether, this made for a modernistic collection unusual to Kriemler’s typical approach.
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It seems as if Sarah Burton has relaxed somewhat in the current season at Alexander McQueen. The intimate collection showed Burton to get familiar with McQueen’s ancestral roots, in drawing her inspiration from the 17th-century Spitalfields silk weavers, who settled in the East End of London after fleeing religious persecution in France.
An elegant assortment of lace and ruffles formed a long, slim silhouette on models, who wore chandelier earrings with their hair loosely pinned back. Dramatic chained body jewelry added a stab of McQueen grit to the gracefully feminine collection.
Valentino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There is a powerful message behind the latest Valentino Collection from Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. Their inarguably beautiful collection of bold prints and delicate patterns presents a fusion of cultures between Italy and Africa.
Braided hair, ethnic inspired jewelry and a palette of strong, vibrant colors appear in conjunction with ruched dresses, studded detailing and leather patchwork reminiscent of the Roman Empire.
No doubt people will question the ethical appropriation of the show… However, with the ongoing refugee crisis we hope that people will take something positive away from it and see the beauty of cross-culture, as Chiuri and Piccioli intended.
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The film “Picnic at Hanging Rock” has provided Raf Simons with a great source of inspiration with this collection for Christian Dior. The ultra feminine line, pleasing to dedicated Dior fans everywhere, was packed with white Victorian-style ruffles, shapes and necklines.
With neckscarves and brooches reading with “1947”, Simons has once again got nostalgic for the monumental New Look collection of that year and incorporated relaxed interpretations of classic, rigid lines into this collection. Adding a splash of contemporary androgyny Simons throws in some chunky knitwear and tailored suits.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Putting the pizzazz back in fashion, Alber Elbaz staged his latest collection for the label in front of a theatre setting. The show began with the Lanvin woman’s day wear, or some sleek reworks of tailored suits, before suddenly turning to what really matters to Elbaz; cocktail dresses and evening wear.
On came a parade of asymmetric gowns amidst a sequined snowball effect with numerous ruffles and satin bows. Next was a dramatic progression to bold Lanvin prints, lace edging, corsages and raincoats.
Overall this collection oozes the eclectic, 1930s glamour we have seen traces of in Paris Fashion week so far. What makes this one stand out is the elaborate playfulness of Elbaz, who is clearly just out for an absolutely fabulous time.
Studio Chérie, Berlin
One of the city’s favorite shooting locations, the Chérie Studios are two professional rental studios for photography and events located in Berlin Neuköln, or the city’s prime art district.
Formerly a confectionary factory, the two industrial lofts offer a unique charm and atmosphere to their 350msq of creative space, with studio 1 including a 6x6m double infinity curve (cyclorama). Chérie Studios also provide their clients with a full production service that involves photography, set styling and catering.
Gagosian Gallery presents Urs Fischer: Fountains
Artist Urs Fischer (b.1973) is in constant search of sculptural solution, envisaging and producing objects undergoing psychic transformation in an extraordinary number of materials, whilst injecting his own, sardonic sense of humor into his works.
The current collection is based around functional fountains, or “active sculptures”, transforms galleries into humid and animated places. After being built from hand-made clay models, lumpen fountains are cast in bronze, with one taking the formation of a flowing garden hose pipe draped over a human skeleton, which is arched across a chair… Needless to say, this is an example of Fischer’s lexicon of darkly humorous “vanitas”.
Obscure paintings surround the fountains inside the galleries, with a dramatically abstracted photographic image of Fischer’s own face as each one’s background. These images contrast representational systems with different cosmic orders.
Urs Fischer: Fountains will exhibit at the Gagosian Gallery, Los Angeles, until October 17, 2015.
Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection
Consolidating the label’s partnership with Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, Angelo Ruggeri has named her as a main source of inspiration for his current, Bohemian chic Sergio Rossi collection.
In having a vintage moment with the Italian footwear brand, classic 1970s clogs are reworked into wedges that display intricate patterns contrasting the rich appearances of wood and cork. Ruggeri contrasts these chunky shapes with delicate stilettos and flats, whilst also creating a stylistic juxtaposition between day and night; eccentricity and minimalism. The line, exuding Summer and optimism, is realized in a mainly neutral palette with a multicolor camouflage effect adding excitement. With the adoption of strings, embroidered thread and crochet patterns in the unique designs, we are left with a beautiful collection embodying creativity and femininity.
Versace Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Refuting the retro looks we are seeing all over Milan at the moment, Donatella Versace is making a stand for her name and bringing back sexy into the world of fashion.
Her beautifully tailored army jackets and waistcoats that cinch into the waist with a Versace crested belt are teamed with chunky platform sandals and pulled up khaki socks to ooze sex appeal and her feeling of the moment; female empowerment.
Then come the snakeskin effect fabrics, the camo-meets-animal print, the sheer shirts and slit skirts. Donatella is defiant in her vision of Versace… And it proves to be iconic.
Trussardi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Seemingly having had sourced inspiration from a documentary depicting one man’s travel through Western Australia, the undertone to Gaia Trussardi’s latest collection is of exploration and survival.
Longline jackets and shirts sail over matching linen trousers, all with distressed raw edges, appear as though they have withstood the harshest of elements of a desert. There is patchwork, layering and leather all realized in a warm, earthy palette and slouchy silhouettes.
Amidst all of this, Trussardi is having a somewhat vintage moment, with beaded dresses and waistbands and a nostalgic pendant necklace featuring in every look. The culmination of which is a collection fusing roughness with luxury, a novel interpretation of shabby-chic.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Opposing retro at all costs, Karl Lagerfeld implies that there are no references in his latest Fendi collection. The puffed up sleeves, the high neck collars and the repeated latticing are puzzling... With coral, oversized leather sleeves and a pleated maroon skirt that flows to the ankles, I can’t decide if we’re in the eighties or the Renaissance, with look 16.
Lagerfeld incorporates a diverse number of silhouettes, fabrics and colors into the collection and more often than not with this one it really seems as though they shouldn’t work together… Somehow though, they definitely do.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a scrupulous eye for the details, Alessandro Michele has created a world of intricacies with his latest Gucci collection. A continuation of his vintage-inspired vision from last season, the quirky collection contains every accessory imaginable with a plethora of floral satins and sheer chiffons.
Models donning huge rocks walk up a printed carpet reminiscent of an aristocratic interior, against a backdrop of an older Italy’s industrial landscape.
With corsages, oversized, sparkly glasses and head-to-toe printed suits, the current Gucci line is Renaissance-meets-the-seventies, and eccentricity is key.
Replay Footwear Launch Online 24h Shoe Design Competition
In collaboration with Desall, a digital startup boasting an international platform of 60,000 creatives, Replay Footwear have announced a shoe design contest to extend their current shoe line and design their “24th shoe”.
The urban, unisex shoe must reflect the Replay brand DNA and must be of an original, unique design, appropriate for 24/7 use, with a monetary prize at stake. Replay fans can follow the competition and vote online at Replays Facebook and Instagram pages. Prospective entrants must personally subscribe to the Desall platform to participate in the competition. The contest ends in November.
MCQ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Rather than have a catwalk show this year at LFW, the label who pride themselves on supporting new creative talent have chosen to show a presentation of their current collection, through the eyes of three young emerging artists. Lea Colombo, Jack Davison and Sharna Osborne reimagined the line using character studies, detail shots and a sequence of short films.
The collection itself takes inspiration from a Post-Punk “No Wave” New York scene during the late seventies and early eighties. Refuting the mainstream sound at that time, this movement reflected strength and rebellion – perfect for MCQ Alexander McQueen.
The presentation was shown digitally on social channels and mcq.com and was set in Spitalfield’s Christ Church, the building that also provided the location for the legendary Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 1996 Dante show.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer Collection 2016 at LFW
Florals, midi skirts and the ruched dresses we know so well, Dame Vivienne Westwood has once again taken the conservative and stamped her bold print all over it. With dramatically smudged make up and face paint, one model carries a book with her down her walk in translucent sliders. Others are in perfectly prim dresses whilst wearing a harness over the top.
With a splash of tartan and the odd carbon-footprint-awareness top, Dame Vivienne Westwood sticks to her guns and creates another classic collection for the Red Label.
Loewe's Sneak Preview of Latest Campaign
To the delight of East Londeners, last Thursday saw LOEWE reveal a preview to their upcoming campaign on a digital billboard in Shoreditch, London. Coinciding with London Fashion Week, the preview confirms an ongoing collaboration between photographer Rudi Meisel and the fashion label.
One image presents Raquel Zimmerman in a Mount-Fuji style shot. With Benjamin Bruno as stylist, the image shows her in a contemporary, transparent look. Other images involve Meisel’s original self-portrait series and the brand’s popular Puzzle bag.
Lacoste Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With not one croc logo in sight, Portugese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista continues to shake things up at Lacoste.
Beginning the show with a proud French palette of red, navy and white, Baptista goes on to include Olympian colored flags and refer to flags of other nations’. The message could not be clearer – Baptista is all about spreading the love; uniting the nations.
With founder René Lacoste as a tennis champ himself, Baptiste does not forget the origins of the label… Sliders, tracksuits and polo necks, Lacoste remains today as the ultimate sports-meet-leisure wear.
Nicopanda Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With so many different things going on, Nicola Formichetti has created his own world with the theatrical SS16 presentation of Nicopanda.
There are glitter-faced ballerinas from a childlike fantasy, underwear clad guys holding bouquets of flowers, not to mention the sheer amount of black PVC adding more than a splash of dominatrix…
This wonderfully bizarre, sports-inspired collection sees the continued diffusion and interpretation of a harajuku influence we saw two seasons ago at Nicopanda, with contemporary, tubed sneakers and baroque style embellishments.
Thought your carbon footprint was small? FEIT’s is smaller.
FEIT was initially created as a response to the harmful global pollution caused by the careless mass production of unworthy, poorly constructed shoes. The first of its type, this “Neoluxury” brand promoting high quality, sustainability and individuality, was founded by the Australian born Price brothers, Tull and Josh. Solely hand-crafting their shoes with the highest level of skill, this pioneering duo adopts a contemporary, environmentally friendly production process when creating their footwear.
In collaboration with the artist / designer Jordana Maisie, FEIT now welcomes “Installation Two: Volume and Void”, the second branch of their innovative company in New York’s West Village. The store design has a geometrically shaped clean aesthetic, with timber opening sightlines between the store and outdoor street. Volumetric molds were used to carve out display spaces, in a similar manner to the process of molding leather to a last. The end result, quite like their shoes, is something truly special.
Unseen Photo Fair and Festival 2015
Founded by FOAM Fotographiemuseum, Platform A and Creative Agency Vandejong in 2012, Amsterdam’s Unseen International Photo Fair and Festival returns this year for the fourth time.
Celebrating emerging talent in the field of contemporary photography, the fair exhibits new artists alongside current work from already established photographers. Todd Hido, Jean-François Lepage and Inka & Niclas will be amongst the artists featuring around the old gasworks location, Westergasfabriek, whilst Peter Puklus provides the official artwork for this year’s campaign as part of his current project “The Epic Love Story of a Warrior”.
With the opportunity to engage and contribute your own artistic thoughts and expression through a number of debates and lectures throughout the 3-day fair, the international event brings together a wealth of photography enthusiasts and professionals. This year’s edition includes 54 galleries, the Unseen Book market along with the presentation of two awards; the Unseen Dummy Award and the ING | Unseen Talent Award.
The Unseen Photo Fair runs in Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek between September 18 and 20, 2015. The Festival, which is accessible with an Unseen ticket, continues until September 27, 2015.
Dez Mona’s “Origin” gets in Touch with their Emotional Side
August 28, 2015, saw the bearded Belgian band Dez Mona release their long-awaited new album “Origin” with Caroline Benelux records. Steering away from the Rock tones of previous album, “A Gentleman’s Agreement”, Nicolas Rombouts’ bass guides listeners back to the band’s more traditional, musical roots of Jazz and gospel with Gregory Frateur’s flawless voice and accompanying double bass, accordion drums and guitars all swiftly in tow. The raw emotion of lyrics is unescapable, whilst the pulsating bassline of first single and album opener “Does it make you, happy?” captivates and thrills. The band also go on tour with the album, starting in October.
Dez Mona “Origins” album is available to purchase from record stores in Belgium and the Netherlands and is also available online from their website.
PARIS XVIE: A Short Film for Dior Homme
Yesterday saw Dior Homme unveil its latest collaboration between artistic director Kris Van Assche and photographer Willy Vanderperre. “PARIS XVIE” is a short film exploring what it means to be this season’s Dior man, with actor Boyd Holbrook guiding us through a day in Paris.
Wearing a tuxedo whilst exploring the depth of Paris’ urban landscape, Holbrook is charmingly confident. Playing a harmonica as he wanders through the streets and picking up flowers as small souvenirs, his pensive expression draws a certain curiosity about him. Toward the end of the film, as a nod to the stylized, cinematic screens of Hollywood, we see him dance around the room and walk under the lights of Paris at nightfall… A clever mix of old and new, this season’s Dior man must be witty, romantic and self-deprecating. PARIS XVIE is online now and accompanied by a still image campaign.
Theory Unveil Latest Campaign with David Sims
Theory reunites with photographer David Sims in launching their AW 2015 campaign. Natalia Vodianova and Clement Chabernaud also return in promoting the brands’ new collection in a variety of chunky knits and woolen suits.
The New York based label have once again avoided cluttering their minimalistic, modern image and opted out of following the current trends. Since being appointed as co-creative directors of the fashion brand last season, Lisa Kulson and Ben Stubbington have stripped back Theorys’ image. Simplistic looks in luxurious, soft fabrics, the fashion brand has evolved to produce unique pieces that are simultaneously easy to wear, wardrobe staples. With their new image, Theory is all about transforming the ordinary into the unordinary. They have created a contemporary, urban uniform, with their reinvention of everyday, work attire.
MACE Announces Summer Collab with LOEWE for John Allen Collection
In collaboration with British artist John Allen, LOEWEs’ creative director J.W. Anderson recently released a quirky line of bags for the brand, featuring the striking landscape prints that Allen is famous for.
This original collection of canvas bags, featuring the pieces “Falling Leaves”, “Cornish Harbour” and Pink House in Cumbria”, have proven to be hugely successful for LOEWE and showcase Allens’ unique style of creating beautiful, abstract scenes using dramatic colours.
Continuing this celebration of fashion, art and culture, LOEWE have agreed to join with the Association of Friends of the Museum of Contemporary Arts in Ibiza (MACE) in opening a Summer Shop in the museum. This will be open from 28 July – 6 September at MACE, located in the Dalt Vila, or IBIZAs’ historic region, and feature LOEWEs’ extraordinary John Allen collection.
Emporio Armani Presents The Fall/Winter 2015/16 Campaign starring Calvin Harris
DJ and producer Calvin Harris stars in the Brooklyn located campaign, a monochrome of cinematographic features shot by photographer Lachlan Bailey. The highly prolific musician Calvin Harris is portrayed in various workplace environments clad in the FW collections’ garments, ranging from leather jackets to the iconic Emporio Armani underwear, eyewear and watches. The continuing collaboration strengthens the ties between the fashion house to the world of the energetic dynamism of contemporary music – with innovation, and futurism intertwined with an assured sense of style. www.armani.com
Lily-Rose Depp for CHANEL
Following in the footsteps of her mother Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp has been made the new CHANEL ambassador and the face of its Pearl eyewear collection. The embodiment of youth, modernity and femininity, the young actress plays a baby doll surrounded by a lofty world of sweetness and style. Her appearance at the Haute Couture show signalled the start of Ms. Depp’s journey as CHANEL’s fashion darling. Discover the Pear eyewear collection campaign shot by Karl Lagerfeld in September 2015.
Rihanna x Stance: Murder Rih Wrote
Stance has announced that Rihanna is joining the unique sock brand as its contributing Creative Director and named a Punk & Poet brand ambassador. In celebration of this new venture, Stance has released two limited edition styles called Murder Rih Wrote, one in an over-the-knee style and one as a crew sock. Each set is a true collector’s piece, with only 1500 sets produced. Rihanna’s complete Stance sock collection will be unveiled this coming fall, a collaboration that epitomizes the rule-breaking, carefree and self-defined essence of both Rihanna and Stance.
Spring/Summer 2016 at Berlin Fashion Week
From season to season the German capital proves there’s life in the old dog yet. Roughly 50 shows, an abundance of trade fairs, Microsoft’s IT COTOURE, MasterCard’s Priceless Berlin Launch, Zalando saving the Bread and Butter and opening its Fashion House, as well as the German Fashion Council’s first installment of the Berliner Mode Salon: while this is neither Paris nor Milan, Berlin has sustained international appeal as a fashion metropolis. Coincidentally the premier collection on day one was titled ‚The long march to victory’. Menswear label SOPOPULAR showcased a tone on tone, almost monochrome collection with mystically painted, muddy faces. Usually dark and gloomy with a hopeful flash of light colors towards the end, dangling starps and unusual cutouts, Daniel Blechmann’s vision assembles into a continuous look throughout – all the way down to the boots, which are the result of a fruitful collaboration with Palladium Boots. The Pampa Hi SOPOPULAR will be available from January 2016.
Maverick Marcel Ostertag sought inspiration in the ‚Desert’. His models were adorned in bright colored daily wears. Desert prints on flowing kaftans are standout pieces of the collection. Aside from many light and airy fabrics in shades of brown and yellow, Ostertag showcased delicate gowns crafted from tulle and embroidery in midnight blue and white.
Perfectly timed for Wimbledon, bright white and grass green opened Hien Le’s Spring/Summer 2016 show. Tennis attire of the 1960s and 70s was most obviously the inspiration for his collection and worked splendidly: sporty elegance and his ever so present carefree lightness shaped the season’s designs. Pants, shorts, slightly flared mini skirts; pleats, button-down dresses made from summer wool, Swiss Cotton and coated linen in unadorned, masterly cuts are all part of Le’s signature style. This time around prints were minimal and played right tot the collection’s theme – in the form of tiny crossed tennis rackets.
PERRET SCHAAD once again offered light silk pieces, flowing in the wind at every turn. A perfectly composed color scheme from light shades of green to grey and pinks made for a diversified yet harmonious coloring. Their Spring/Summer 2016 collection embodies the freshness and intensity of a crisp seaside vacation, set off by urban asphalt hues. The mix of natural and artificial colors in this collection juxtaposes the existential severity and lightness PERRET SCHAAD’s classical designs are renowned for. Linens, breezy silks and sheer voile cotton counter heavier fabrics and create volume and interesting lines, much as we have come to expect from the design duo. Long, flowing pants, silk dresses and coats from crinkled linen in midnight blue, black and earth tones make another appearance at Michael Sontag’s show. The designer is another one of those veterans who sticks to his unmistakable signature with his Spring/Summer 2016 offerings – and the collection is better for it.
Malaikaraiss on the other hand strayed a little from her usual styles and envisaged surfer girls with a sleek look, soft dresses, transparent blouses and round straw hats, the very coherent, grown-up look is reminiscent of summer’s fun in the sun.
Lala Berlin’s iconic prints are delicately dispersed on chiffon dresses as well as pant suits suitable for everyday life. Wide pants with pleats folded toward the middle, cut from a jacquard fabric with hobnail patterns will also work well commercially.
White dots are embroidered onto black chiffons; pecking birds on a camisole and a dress is adorned with embroidered pineapple upon the hips in Augustin Teboul’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Both designers almost appropriate black denim jackets and pants to street wear – almost. They threaded rows of shimmery black pearls into frayed knees and shoulders - a beautiful finale for day three of Berlin Fashion Week.
Marina Hoermanseder once again showcased her impeccable craftsmanship in molded leather - this time in globe-skirts with leather blossoms tight skirts made from leather straps and cast plastic corsages, added by a number of wearable dresses, blouses and wide-legged pants made from washable silk, suede, and white cotton with eyelet embroidery. During her quest for traditional craft producers, the designer found her Spring/Summer 2016 collection inspiration in elaborately embellished traditional costumes and garments from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and monarchy.
Dorothee Schumacher found inspiration for her Spring/Summer 2016 collection in a paradisiac jungle with florals, beige safari looks, furiously mixed prints. Like many other designers this past week, Dorothee Schumacher rediscovered the shoulder and thereby put a new twist on her ever present play with femininity.
Overall this installment of Fashion Week showcased many of the style tropes associated with the renowned New Objectivity – muted colors, flowing, understated cuts – all perfectly executed by Berlin’s MVPs. However, there are interesting newbies making their mark, promising a future for Berlin’s fashion circuit.
Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting are no strangers to originality. This collection is no different. With construction so unique and alternative, the Viktor & Rolf catwalk was a highlight of Haute Couture’s Paris Fashion Week. The conceptual magic of the collection was clear to see – artists wrapped in their own constructions, a literal canvas draped chaotically yet beautifully around its maker. The construction of these ‘canvases’ was absolute creative genius. From canvas coats to ‘crushed painting’ dresses and the abstraction of classical Dutch still life imagery in the paintings themselves – Viktor & Rolf provided us with true marvel. Art and fashion is not incommensurable, it is symbiotic. Bravo.
CHANEL Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The revived flapper girl took centre stage at CHANEL’s Haute Couture showcase. The drastically shortened bob and asymmetrical hemline were decidedly 1920’s, yet all the while contemporary. Though it wasn’t far removed from a Baz Luhrmann set, the trademark Grand Palais was decidedly CHANEL — abundant in theatrics and perhaps even more ostentatious than any Great Gatsby film set. CHANEL is after all the real deal. The Art Deco casino showcased stars gathered around casino tables, Oscar winner Julianne Moore and muse Kristen Stewart at ease in ‘Le Cercle Privé’.
However, it was Karl Lagerfeld’s bride Kendall Jenner that symbolised this seasons CHANEL Haute Couture collection – an unabashed celebration of the young it-crowd. A proper Daisy Buchanan to Karl’s Gatsby. Indeed, the showcase of the ‘high rollers’ sat in the centre of the runway was perhaps less of a subtle hint, with guests such as Lily-Rose Depp and Lily Collins bidding for a chance at a win. Alas, this is Haute Couture. And conceptualism is as much a part of the picture as the garments themselves.
However, as with his recent collections, Karl triumphs again with his garment construction. This time with the introduction of his fully 3D printed suits, pushing the classic CHANEL look into the age of fashion technology. Though the silhouettes were classic in nature, their conception were as avant-garde as his presentation.
KENZO’s short film “Here and Now"
Bastion of the New Queer Cinema movement Gregg Araki has written and directed an original short film for KENZO, featuring their Fall/Winter 2015 collections. In an idea stemming from the creative directors of the fashion house Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the movie is a quirky venture, somewhat startling and even a little obscene. Centering around a group that could have been taken straight out of his 1997 cult film ‘Nowhere’, the film is as curious as the KENZO collections: colorful, in-your-face aesthetics, abstract and a little disjointed, yet kind of cool.
Watch the clip here: www.kenzo.com/herenow
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign: “The Art of Collaboration”
The latest sequel to the ongoing collaborative of Creative Director Tomas Maier and distinct artists, the FW 15/16 campaign is shot by photographer Juergen Teller. Taken in the Museum Casa Mollino in Turin, the campaign has the mark of an unfinished canvas – rough and raw around the edges. The former home of Carlo Mollino, one of the most influential Italian designers of the mid-20th century reflects the spirit of the Bottega Veneta season.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
“In All Disorder A Secret Order”. Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme presented his contemporary take on the haute bourgeois man, a playful interaction between tradition and alternative masculinity. Influenced by the popular sportswear trend, traditional aesthetics are infused by an overwhelming sense of French chic – in true Dior style. Camouflage is paired with the tightly tailored suit, intense colors spread throughout the collection in the form of statement jackets, belts and sleeves enhance the sleekness and simplicity of the SS 16 vision.
Valentino Menswear SS 16 at Paris Fashion Week
The sports infused wardrobe is here to stay. Earthy tones of browns, greens and ochre abound in this very wearable menswear collection. Denims and camouflage round off this fully-fledged men’s wardrobe. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri constructed with a true sense of quality a collection as multifaceted as it is flexible – the looks would certainly not seem out of place on most urban streets. Perhaps the only danger here is just how much the collections can be applied – wallets beware!
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Red scorpions, red palm trees, a red Marylin – the Dries Van Noten Menswear collection was a thoroughly enjoyable, somewhat ominous seduction by way of iconic imagery. Images of Marylin Monroe were emblazoned elegantly through monochrome patterns peppered throughout the collection. Checkered billowing pants, striped shirts and paisley shorts were paired with summery, silky pieces in dark, somber colors. The Van Noten theme evoked imaginings of a sumptuous Hollywood pool party, only darker and more eerie.
Gucci Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Alessandro Michele does not veer from the pristine vision of a John Lennonesque man brought to life in a reformulated sense. With tinted eyewear, flowered lace and shabby-chic hair, the Gucci man emerges as a well-stocked, well-researched vintage savant. Even with such direct references to the 70s silhouette, Alessandro seems to aim more at playing with the aspect of youth culture and the fashion choice of eccentricity, who often draw from old closets.
Hôtel Eugène en Ville Paris
Lying just a short distanc